Motorized Grain Mills: Time to show them off!

[Hang Glider]

Slowsupratt: Output shaft is 7/8", mill shaft is 1/2" - you'll need a lovejoy to mate the two. (see the pic a few posts above yours, #476)

 

[Hunky]

assume this motor may be underpowered but thought I would ask the motor gurus. I have a Monster M with 3 rollers.

and:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAChY/iCtpjmjrCqE/w1118-h839-no/motor2.jpg

 

[AnOldUR]

38 in-lb is at the bottom of what you'd like to have, but could still work. I'd be more worried about the 32 RPM. For a while I was playing with a gearmotor that was 90 in-lb and 30 RPM. It worked fine, but was really slow. Like a half hour or more for large batches or big beers.

 

[FredTheNuke]

the MM3-2.0 manufacturer recommends a 1 horsepower motor... I have an MM3-2.0 on a 1HP and it does require that much force to get it spinning with grain already in the hopper. Especially wheat.

 

[AnOldUR]

Motor horsepower alone is not important. It's torque at the roller shaft that will keep your mill from stalling. A lower horsepower motor geared to 30 RPM can provide the same torque as a higher HP rated motor geared to a higher speed. For most homebrewers 150-250 RPM at the mill is a good compromise between not shredding the husks and getting the job done in a reasonable amount of time. Anything below 40 in-lb of torque at the mill could be a problem, but that depends on roller diameter and width. I wouldn't go below 60 in-lb.

 

[FredTheNuke]

Very true. Numbers may be a bit high, though. A 1hp 1725rpm motor typically has 30 inch pounds of torque.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electrical-motors-hp-torque-rpm-d_1503.html

 

[AnOldUR]

A 1hp 1725rpm motor typically has 30 inch pounds of torque.

At the motor shaft, not at the mill.

 

[bizarrojosh]

Hi all,

I'm hoping that your expertise can help me make a human powered mill using a bike and bike parts. I need to get in shape and one way to do this is to use my own energy rather than electric energy. Anyway, I don't even know where to start but I assume that you awesome people can help point me in the right direction and give me some tips.

I did do a bit of googling and found a baker who has built something similar for when he mills his flour: pedal powered grain mill

Also, on this page the first picture shows an outline of how to connect a generator to a pedal. Obviously I would change the generator to my barley crusher

I currently have a barley crusher and as you can see his mill is a bit different.

I also found this company that does the same thing. If you look at the video in the first 2 minutes you can see a guy crushing grain into an ale pail

What would I need to get the mill hooked up to the rear wheel/bike chain of the bike so I can use the pedal to turn the mill? How would you build something like this?

Any advise, links, suggestions or help would be appreciated! Thanks!

 

[Chops1867]

You can't see the motor, but you get the idea!


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[Huaco]

Is the motor holding the camera?

 

[Chops1867]

Yes. My motor can multitask.


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[marcb]

My favorite color...... Stainless!

 

[rabeb25]

I have this mounted to an older motor, that powered my barley crusher. This new motor is not cutting it, it will just stop during crush... any recommendations that would be a "drop in" replacement?

 

[marcb]

I have this mounted to an older motor, that powered my barley crusher. This new motor is not cutting it, it will just stop during crush... any recommendations that would be a "drop in" replacement?

Check on local CL and eBay for a gear motor. I prefer Dayton and stick to the final rpm range of 135-175. I've had great success with a 1/6hp Dayton gear motor for my crankandstein 3D that I got off of CL for $35.

 

[rabeb25]

You mean 1350-1750 right?

Thanks

 

[Stealthcruiser]

You mean 1350-1750 right?

Thanks

"Final" R P M.

I think I have read that 180 R P M is the desired speed.

 

[rabeb25]

Maybe I am dense. ... But how would you lower the rpm of a directly connected motor?


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[idylldon]

Maybe I am dense. ... But how would you lower the rpm of a directly connected motor?

It's a gear-reduction motor, which is basically an electric motor with a gearbox attached. The motor itself runs at a much higher RPM than the shaft coming out of the reduction box so there's no need for pulleys to drop the RPM before connecting it to the mill.

Cheers,
--
Don

 

[rabeb25]

Ok thanks. That sounds expensive!


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[marcb]

Ok thanks. That sounds expensive!


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I guess you missed the Craigslist $35 part of my post.

 

[rabeb25]

I guess you missed the Craigslist $35 part of my post.

No I saw it. I was talking about the reduction motor. You said you got your motor off craigslist. How much was the reduction?


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[marcb]

No I saw it. I was talking about the reduction motor. You said you got your motor off craigslist. How much was the reduction?


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If you are direct drive as indicated on your picture you already have one, just not enough torque to drive the mill. The full specs of the CL Dayton motor are in my motorized super mill thread.

Found em:160 rpm.



Full specs:

AC Gearmotor, Parallel Shaft, Voltage Rating 115/230, 1 Phase, 60/50 Hz, Nameplate RPM 160, Full Load Torque (In.-Lbs.) 45, Overhung Load (Lb.) 196, Input HP 1/6, Gear Ratio 10:1, Full Load Amps 2.90/1.45, TEFC Enclosure, None Thermal Protection, All Position Mounting, Motor Type Permanent Split Capacitor

Grainger Item # 6MK80

Brand DAYTON

Mfr. Model # 6MK80

UNSPSC # 26101602

Ship Weight (lbs.) 25.55

Gearmotor, AC, 160 RPM

 

[rabeb25]

Thanks, I understand it now... you were saying gear motor, but I was hearing motor with a gearbox attached.

I got it and I will be on the look out!

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Thanks, I understand it now... you were saying gear motor, but I was hearing motor with a gearbox attached.

I got it and I will be on the look out!

It is a motor with a gearbox attached, just a motor designed for that type of gearbox attcahment, and sold as a "gearmotor".

In the specs, ( I believe, as I forgot to notice!), it will call out the "frame" type, which specifies what attachments, ( if any), can be attached directly to the motor.

You'll see all kinds of abbreviations as well, such as "TEFC", which stand for "totally enclosed, fan cooled", which is a plus in this application for not having concerns of the grain dust, (potentially explosive), entering the enclosure where electric arcing will be present.

 

[FredTheNuke]

TEFC is highly recommended. It should be considered required for grain milling to avoid death, explosions and other fun stuff like that.


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[hafmpty]

Here is mine. Took the simple route. Harbor Freight high torque, low RPM drill. I wired a switch and use a hose clamp to squeeze the trigger to just the right spot. Had the stand laying around for a while and just cut it down enough for a 10gal Rubbermaid trash an to fit under. Keeps the dust down. Works great and the mount is super sturdy.


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[trimixdiver1]

My baby

 

[Chia]

i am in the middle of my build. is there an inexpensive quality motor out there? if so, what would you recommend?

 

[govner1]

Just completed this three roller Monster Mill w / LOTS of help from my brew buddies & craftsmen Dave & John- the gap is set at. .039 & the crush is perfect!



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[the4gottenman]

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Elect...115-230-VAC-56C-TEFC-LEESON-MOTOR-10-2700.axd

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power...-0-77-HP-56C-RIGHT-OUTPUT-13-133-10-R-56C.axd

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6408k14/=pt8q2e

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6408k75/=pt8qbh

Here ya go

I just ordered this setup and the output shaft on the gear reducer is not 5/8" like it says on the specifications or the dimensional drawing. It is bigger (about .708"/18mm diameter and the key is about .275"/7mm wide) so my 5/8" lovejoy coupling doesn't fit. Has anyone else had this problem? I tried calling customer service but it's not in their business hours and I have tried to find a lovejoy coupling that matches the output shaft on McMaster Carr but can't find one that matches the diameter and the key size.

EDIT: Well I feel a little silly. I just got a call about my problem and there is a plastic cover that goes over the output shaft that looks like the actual shaft. They says they get questions about it often. Hopefully this helps anyone else down the road.