OP
OP
Demus
Well-Known Member
Ghetto Electric 4000w basic basement heatstick electric brewing, 2 elements at 2000w on separate 20 amp GFCI circuits. Works well for 3V cooler batch sparge brewing, or BIAB for 5, 10, and have even pulled off a few 15 gal. batches. Typical batch size is 7.75 gal (1/4B). One gallon manual pitcher pump on bottom shelf for HLT - MLT transfer of sparge water
I often consider running 240v circuit powering a ballsy 5500w element w/ controller, pump(s) and sophisticated temp control, but then would opt for kettle mount, and to pick which kettle is a quandry of mine as I like to vary my process and batch size. I am also a kettleholic and have collected 2 @ 80 qt, 2 @ 60 qt., and a 44 qt., plus a slew of coolers...old habits die hard I guess, and I like to keep the process basic and simple, with less gear to clean and less mess as I am brewing in a finished basement.
While as ghetto as heatsticks are, they provide the ultimate in flexibility, say the mash is a few degrees low, stir with a heatstick for a minute or two. One can easily move the heat where and when it's needed, heat strike water first in the MT, then heat sparge in the HLT, then on to the boil kettle. 4000w can heat the initial strike water in just about the time it takes to weigh and crush grain, and can easily heat sparge water during the mash.
As for the safety of heatsticks, I think homebrewing in itself is inherently dangerous, whether one uses electric or propane, and a grounded heatstick on a GFCI circuit is no more, or even less dangerous than many power tools such as a circular saw, grinder, chainsaw, lawnmower, woodsplitter, nailgun etc., etc. Be careful folks!
80 qt., 60 qt., and 44 qt. kettles
48 qt. coolers and 60 qt. kettle
So those babies are standard 110v? Where do you get them? It takes both to get 7 gallons rolling? Would 1 keep it going once it's boiling?
