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Ragman

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When I have bottled in the past I used an auto siphon, funnel with screen and a bottling bucket.
The screen helped filter out a lot of the trub that was being pulled from the carboy while siphoning.
Not sure how I will do this when I transfer from carboy to keg, and since the liquid tube sits at the very bottom of the keg, how will I prevent it from clogging?
I thought about maybe some kind of filter on the end of the hose going into the keg when transferring but not sure how well that would work.

How do you guys do it?

Thanks.,
 
To be truthful, I don't think you were getting the best results from your beer with you previous bottling method. After you aerate your wort and pitch the yeast, you want to minimize oxygen exposure to the wort. Bottling beer typically introduce oxygen, but you want to try and minimize it as much as possible. Putting your finished beer through a funned or screen will increase the surface area or your beer and introduce a lot of oxygen. Oxygenated beer will lose hop aroma very quickly. It may not be present at all when the bottles have reached full carbonation. Also, the beer could go stale very quickly and introducing other unpleasant flavors such as cardboard.

Transferring to a keg is not too different from transferring to a bottling bucket. First you need to clean and sanitize your keg, auto siphon, and transfer tube. Then put your fermenter on a counter top or table and leave the keg on the ground in front of it. Then start your siphon from the fermenter to the keg. You want the transfer tube on the bottom of the keg so that it fills from the bottom up and try to eliminate splashing as much as possible. Hold the auto siphon so the bottom tip is well above the trub at the bottome of the fermenter. Keep it suspended in the clear bear and lower it as the fermenter drains. Once you get to the trub at the bottom, stop transferring the beer. You can also tilt the fermenter to one side a bit to try and get the last bit of beer, but that takes some practice. Transferring this way should eliminate the need for filtering and your beer will have less oxygen exposure.

There are other methods to transfer to a keg, but based on your post, I'm guessing that you have the equipment to do the method I described. A cheap and easy upgrade might be to add a spigot to your fermenter. This was my original method before changing to a closed transfer. With a spigot, you simply attach the transfer tube to the spigot valve and open the spigot, eliminating the need for an auto siphon. After a couple of batches, start reading up on closed transfers. There are different methdos to do this, but the simplest is a closed gravity transfer which doesn't require additional hardware, just a spigot.
 
Last edited:
Floating dip tubes are the answer. Torpedo Keg Buoy ™ Floating Dip Tube | MoreBeer
You find them at many online home brew sites. Since they only draw beer from the top, they don't get clogged with the trub and yeast that settles to the bottom. You also get the clearest beer from the keg.
That works, but I would still try to eliminate getting the yeast cake and trub into my keg. Better transfer methods help a lot. My current method is to cold crash my beer, then do a closed transfer from my fermenter to keg. My fermenter has a floating dip tube and I push the beer using co2. I get clear beer to my kegs immediately so I never converted them to a floating dip tube.
 
Thanks guys for the replies. I now understand why my beer was so oxidized and it wasnt just the problems I was having with the autosiphon. I will make sure the tube rests at the bottom of the keg when transferring and skip the whole funnel/filter thing. Live and learn I guess.

Didnt know about the Keg Buoy... thats much cheaper than the other option someone had posted on another thread - Similar setup just was almost $50.

Thanks again guys.... learnin more and more everyday.
 

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