Modifying a Chugger pump head

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USCDiver

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I can't recall seeing this idea done much if at all on these boards, but it seems like an interested possibility. I was wondering about welding triclover fittings onto a Chugger pump head.

I have two stainless center inlet chugger pumps with Triclover X FPT fittings. The ID of a 1" triclover fitting is approx 7/8" which is larger than the ID of the 3/4" NPT on the inlet. However eyeballing the pump head it looks like it would fairly straightforward to cut off the threads and ream out the input to 7/8" and then weld on a 1" triclover ferrule. Something similar could be done with the output going from 1/2" NPT to 3/4" triclover.

I wonder though what effect this would have on the pump's performance. Would you still get good flow or would the increase in diameter of the input and output cause a problem? For much of the pumping done during a brew, the output is going to be throttled back anyway, but it would be nice to be able to transfer fluid from one place to another at a faster rate if possible. Not to mention, eliminating threaded connections, although that is a secondary concern, really.

Thoughts?
 
I am trying something similar.
Using a mill to cut down the threads.
Using a lathe to enlarge a drilled hole in a TC cap.
Plan is to silver solder the pieces together.

But I know nothing about pumps and next to nothing about machining.
Already messed up a boring bar. It might be a while before I finish it.
 
It has been a while since I went through "pump class" (yes, an entire class devoted to centrifugal pumps. ) How big is the diameter of the impeller? How much are you enlarging the suction side by? Is it an open impeller design? (can you look in the suction and see a swirling pattern? On such a small close coupled pump it is hard to say, it may reduce the suction head of the pump, which if it is being operated with a flooded suction will not mater. How much is a replacement head?

yep, one can tig weld cast stainless.
 
Someone did it not too long ago. Cant find the thread for the life of me though.
 
Just an FYI just this morning brewershardware posted on Facebook they have their machinist is making up fixtures to do exactly this; machine the threads off and weld on tri clover fittings. The kicker though: "Price point looks like it's going to need to be $150ish for a complete replacement pump head"!
 
I do not use pumps or tri clover fittings just yet so excuse the question, why not make a reducer or coupling? Why cut a working pump and then weld a fitting to it? I guess I'm off to the net to understand what you folks are thinking of attempting. Cutting and welding stainless is a biatch without the right tools. Welding Cast materials can result in porous welds.
 
I do not use pumps or tri clover fittings just yet so excuse the question, why not make a reducer or coupling? Why cut a working pump and then weld a fitting to it? I guess I'm off to the net to understand what you folks are thinking of attempting. Cutting and welding stainless is a biatch without the right tools. Welding Cast materials can result in porous welds.

Yeah, of course you COULD do that! In fact, right now I use one of these for my input. But the ID of a 3/4" NPT is about 1/2" whereas the ID of a 1" TC is about 7/8". Also, I'd prefer not to have threaded connections post boil, although as mentioned, this is a secondary concern.

Tell me more about the dangers of welding cast stainless, I don't know much about it. Others above have said it is possible.
 
I did not change the diameter of the pump head. On the 3/4 inlet I threaded a stainless coupler on welded the tip then welded a tri clover on.

image-2222397711.jpg
 
jyorger said:
i did not change the diameter of the pump head. On the 3/4 inlet i threaded a stainless coupler on welded the tip then welded a tri clover on.



image-290528458.jpg
 
Tell me more about the dangers of welding cast stainless, I don't know much about it. Others above have said it is possible.

You would need to know what filler is used to join the two different alloys. Although both workpieces being SS, cast materials often have other alloys mixed in. Castings tend to be porous which is why many structural components require forged products. Does not mean what you have is bad, just saying that you may create problems when welding. Brazing or silver solder are other means to do what you wish. An experienced welder can do what you need. The cost is exponential next to the cost of a coupling.
 
Bringing back an old thread, but the issue persists.

Any reason one can't take an FPT to Triclover adapter (like these: https://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-X-Female-NPT/), screw it onto the pump head, and then weld (or silver solder, or whatever) it in place, running the bead inside to seal the threads away from the wort?

Tricky welding, but should be doable for a good welder (the cost is a separate issue)...
 
Bringing back an old thread, but the issue persists.

Any reason one can't take an FPT to Triclover adapter (like these: https://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-X-Female-NPT/), screw it onto the pump head, and then weld (or silver solder, or whatever) it in place, running the bead inside to seal the threads away from the wort?

Tricky welding, but should be doable for a good welder (the cost is a separate issue)...

Yes, I did this with silver solder and it works great.

I would use this adapter next time.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15nps_tapped.htm
 
Someone has just started offering these for sale; brewershardware.com is the place!

So you are in luck. That said, I think the head on limited lower introductory price was like $100! Regulate price will be $140 for just the head.
 
bumping this cause I want one of these. jyorger, you want to make one for me? I'm having a beast of a time finding someone to tig weld these suckers.
My plan is to buy the ~$13 TC's from BobbyM, thread them on, then silver solder on the wort side to seal them off from the threads. Cheapest and super easy to DIY.
 
Someone has just started offering these for sale; brewershardware.com is the place!

So you are in luck. That said, I think the head on limited lower introductory price was like $100! Regulate price will be $140 for just the head.


Really? Not seeing where it is on their site...
 
My plan is to buy the ~$13 TC's from BobbyM, thread them on, then silver solder on the wort side to seal them off from the threads. Cheapest and super easy to DIY.


Yeah that was my plan too, although ill have to consider buying one, $100 seems like a reasonable price...if they are indeed selling them.
 
Yeah that was my plan too, although ill have to consider buying one, $100 seems like a reasonable price...if they are indeed selling them.
I just bought a replacement center inlet for $45 or whatever BobbyM sells them for so I am just going to have to make that work. I wasn't planning on going all TC at the time, just continue using camlocks. I like camlocks a lot, I hate threaded joints, cleaning and thread tape. Goal is a 100% sanitary system and shouldn't be too expensive since I am going BIAB. I will need to do the same to my CFC chiller. So 4 joints. Not too bad.
 
Really? Not seeing where it is on their site...

There is an "ad" for them on the right of their page. Since this is the first run, they aren't officially listed yet.

The ad says you have to call and talk to them to order one at the intro price on this first run of the heads.
 

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