MLT: Using rubber hose inside braid

[mikitz]

Anyone use the technique in the following video to make a stainless braid filter for their mash tun? He puts a bunch of holes in the rubber hose, then puts it back into the stainless braid. Supposedly it prevents the braid from collapsing and prevents stuck sparges.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3L7UBXqrUo[/ame]

So I went out and got a water heater hookup hose that's rated for 200F, did a test with 155F mash temp water (no grain) for 1 hour to see if I'd pick up any rubber smells/tastes. Neither wife nor I could detect any rubber smells/tastes. Does anyone else use a filter like this with the rubber insert inside?

Thx, going to do first all grain brew on Monday!

 

[Revvy]

That's how mine has been for 8 years. I have mine connected inside my cooler to a T- so it goes around the cooler in a circle. Never had any issues.

 

[mikitz]

Thanks for the reply, this is good to hear before my brew day on Monday.

Here are a few pictures if anyone is interested in how I made the filter braid, hopefully it helps someone out:

removed inner rubber hose from stainless braid

drilled holes all the way through the hose, turned 90 degrees, did the same in a staggered fashion. Then slid the rubber hose back into the stainless mesh.

i've since replaced the brass HD valve with stainless
just used a 1.5" long 1/2" pipe nipple (male on both ends)
I've since changed out the brass valve for stainless (gotta love HD return policy for dry-fitting)

used copper cap for end, copper connector for other end. Both fastened with stainless hose clamps

 

[dmcman73]

Hot water rated does not = food safe. I don't know what that hose is made of (it is not 100% rubber) but I would imagine that it could leach chemicals into the water when heated. Again, being this was made for a hot water heater, it does not have to be food safe as you don't drink hot water from the faucet.

If anything, I would replace it with some thick walled food grade silicone hose

That's just my 2 cents.

 

[day_trippr]

What's the ID of the braid? (or what OD was that hose?)
You could stuff a stainless steel spring in there and forget any issues with leaching chemicals.

Here's a half inch OD, 20" long solution for $4.25 (plus whatever punitive shipping charges M-C deems appropriate).

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9663k78/=11ijww3

Might find something like that in a big box store, I dunno...

Cheers!

 

[Bobby_M]

A hose inside kind of defeats the purpose of how wide open and flowing the braid is. Now the only open area is where a hole was made. The spring option is better if you want support. You can also make your own coil out of copper or stainless wire.

 

[osgrimmy]

I went to Home Depot and grabbed 1 foot of ground wire then stripped the sheathing off. I wound it like a spring around and rotated it in the stainless steel braid. worked perfect and cost me 1 buck for the wireView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1459639637.687749.jpg

 

[osgrimmy]

I also agree with Bobby a hose inside will reduce the efficiency of the braid

 

[mikitz]

Well you guys were right! The rubber tube with holes inside the stainless braid immediately led to a stuck sparge. Had to pour the water into another vessel, scooped out most of the grain. After removing the rubber hose inside and putting everything back the lautering went beautifully. Take care everyone.

 

[kh54s10]

I used a 3/4 inch water heater braid. I removed the inner tubing. It was translucent. The braid itself is much heavier than most of the ones I see people using that are sink or toilet supply lines. It has done over 80 batches without collapsing or any stuck sparges. It fits over the outside of the coupler on the inside of the valve with a hose clamp.