Mineral Additions - Procedures for Water Adjustment

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mchrispen

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There are conflicting recommendations on when to add minerals (strike, mash, sparge, boil) and I thought I would solicit feedback from the experienced and expert. Perhaps the recommendations change based on source water alkalinity?

I will describe procedures that work for me:

Adding Minerals to Strike water: After strike water has been heated, I add the acidifying minerals (typically gypsum, Epsom and calcium chloride) and ensure they have dissolved before dough-in.

Adding Minerals to Mash: If I have pre-determined that additional alkalinity is required, I will add in the estimated amount of pickling lime while stirring in the grist.

Adjusting Mash pH: I check at dough-in, 5 minutes and 15 minutes. I will make a minor pre-calculated adjustment with either phosphoric acid or pickling lime, usually no more than +/- 0.1, and only if required at the 5 minute mark. Verify stability at 15 minutes. All checks using a calibrated pH meter. Additional checks throughout the mash if things were off.

Sparge: Gets any excess minerals required to hit my target profile, and any liquid acid necessary to come below 6.0 pH.

Assumptions: I am brewing with RO water, so large adjustments are not necessary in a typical recipe. I am mostly following the procedures laid out in the Bru'n Water spreadsheet. I have been hitting the Bru'n estimated mash pH within +/- 0.05 pH tolerance, usually dependent on the recipe.
 
Good timing!
I am doing my first water adjusted brew tomorrow and was wondering when to add the minerals.
One question, if I am heating strike and sparge water together (I usually heat 11 gal for a 7.5 pre-boil volume) should I treat the entire volume in the HLT with Gypsum, Epsom Salt, Calcium Chloride, then when ready to batch sparge, add the acid to the HLT?
Thanks
 
My process is a bit OCD, at least according to a few professional brewers I have spoken to recently. Yet I know other home brewers that go to greater extremes. Hence my query...

I would use only the minerals and acid necessary in the strike water to hit mash pH, and acidify the sparge separately. Any excess minerals for flavor would go into the sparge water.

I am confident that getting the mash pH is far more important than getting the mineralization correct. Do you use a calibrated pH meter?
 
Just got a ph meter and will use it for the first time tomorrow too.
I guess I could fill my mash tun with the proper volume and add the minerals right before doughing-in.
 
I generally treat my strike and sparge water at the same time, as it's all in the HLT at the same time. However, lately I've been using more water (bigger beers) and my HLT only holds 14 gallons so sometimes I have to refill the HLT after adding my strike water to the MLT.

For ease, it's certainly ok to add your minerals to all of the water in the HLT. If all of the water doesn't fit in the HLT, it's ok to treat them separately as well.

If I'm refilling my HLT, I try to sparge with 100% RO water so no water treatment is needed.

If I had a larger HLT (way down on my list of priorities), I would treat all the water at once, and then acidify the sparge water if needed to avoid the sparge pH getting too high. That's about all I'd change, though.
 
Heating only affects the alkalinity of tap water and not solubility to any great extent. When you have calculated an acid addition based on the tap water's alkalinity, you do want to add that acid before heating. If you know what the alkalinity will be after heating, you can still calculate the addition based on that value and add it to the hot water.
 
But we mustn't lose sight of the fact that heating hard, carbonaceous water will result in the precipitation of chalk and a profound change in alkalinity and hardness. Part of this is due to changes in solubility of both CO2 and chalk. And gypsum is less soluble in hot water than cold. You won't hit saturation but it is easier to dissolve in cold water.
 
I probably should have put this over in the All Grain section - thought because so much about water chem was discussed here - it made sense in this section. Also - not trying to stir arguments, really would like to know what works for people.

Yooper, do you then adjust the entire water for a target mash pH with acid? I really struggled with that approach using Beer Smith. I always seemed to undershoot the pH and have to add more acid. Granted it may have been that I was less familiar using a ph meter and how the mash stabilizes. Bru'n weights the additions to the strike to help hit a pH target - even with acid additions.

With my RIMS system, it is really pretty convenient to split the water anyway and heat to separate temperatures, and it seems to fit with the way Martin lays things out in Bru'n Water - I can be fairly precise in the volume measurements.
 
I probably should have put this over in the All Grain section - thought because so much about water chem was discussed here - it made sense in this section. Also - not trying to stir arguments, really would like to know what works for people.

Yooper, do you then adjust the entire water for a target mash pH with acid? I really struggled with that approach using Beer Smith. I always seemed to undershoot the pH and have to add more acid. Granted it may have been that I was less familiar using a ph meter and how the mash stabilizes. Bru'n weights the additions to the strike to help hit a pH target - even with acid additions.

With my RIMS system, it is really pretty convenient to split the water anyway and heat to separate temperatures, and it seems to fit with the way Martin lays things out in Bru'n Water - I can be fairly precise in the volume measurements.

I rarely use acid, at least not liquid acid, in the mash. I usually use a high percentage of RO water, and if I need some acid I use a bit of acid malt.

If I'm not sparging with 100% RO water, I'll acidify my sparge water.
 
Just to chime in here, I almost always add all of my water salt additions to my strike water the night before I brew. I fill my kettle with the amount of water that i'll need, then i add the slurry of salts that I made while weighing in my kitchen to the strike water, give it a hearty stir, and leave it overnight. This gives time for the gypsum to more fully dissolve as well as giving ample time for any chlorine or chloramine to evaporate out of my brew water. The next morning on brew day I fire up the kettle and bring it to a boil just for the heck of it, and then cool down to my mash-in temp.
 
....When you have calculated an acid addition based on the tap water's alkalinity, you do want to add that acid before heating.....


I'm curious as to why this is. Also, how much more or less does the acid effect the water when added before heating versus at strike temp? Thanks!



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I'm curious as to why this is. Also, how much more or less does the acid effect the water when added before heating versus at strike temp? Thanks!



Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Heating water that has temporary hardness (aka: alkalinity) will drive off some of that alkalinity. If you calculated your acid addition based on the original water alkalinity, when you add that acid amount to heated water that has already lost some of that alkalinity, then you will end up overdosing with the acid.

If you know what the alkalinity of your heated water is and calculate your acid addition based on that, then its OK to add acid to hot water.
 
Ahhhh, gotchya. Makes perfect sense now! Thanks Martin. I'm thinking that may have happened this past weekend. I may have slightly overdosed. But I didn't get too low with the pH. My mash ph was 5.27. Then actually went up to slightly above 5.3 after 15 minutes. So, I was comfortable with that.


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