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Blonde Ale Miller Lite (Really Triple Hopped)

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:mug: Cheers !

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Finally got a chance to brew this. So far so good, 1.037, using about 1.5 oz of hallatuer FWH and 1oz hallatuer for a hop stand on10 gallon batch, planning on a 1 or 2 oz 2-week dry hop.

A little high on the IBUs and a bit better efficiency, but it's all good.

I am really looking forward to how this turns out. Thanks for the recipe and all of the tweaking...
 
Do you have to dry hop this recipe? If you don't, what would you do instead. Used this recipe as my 1st BIAB all grain and it didn't really turn out well.

It taste very light at the begging and when I swallow it has just a not good taste (hard to describe). Part of the taste is grassy if that makes since, which I thought might be because of the whole leaf hops. I left it in the primary for 10 days then 2ndary for 10 days.

I had some problems with my mash temperature and my fermentation temp might not have had the best control which could also be the problem.
 
Do you have to dry hop this recipe? If you don't, what would you do instead. Used this recipe as my 1st BIAB all grain and it didn't really turn out well.

It taste very light at the begging and when I swallow it has just a not good taste (hard to describe). Part of the taste is grassy if that makes since, which I thought might be because of the whole leaf hops. I left it in the primary for 10 days then 2ndary for 10 days.

I had some problems with my mash temperature and my fermentation temp might not have had the best control which could also be the problem.

No you don't have to dry hop. It typically gives it that 70's era american lager taste. I've done it both ways and got very good results.

How long has it been since you pulled it off of the amylase enzyme?

Often the enzyme takes time to fade. Its roughly two weeks chilled before it drops out. I describe it as an acrid parched dryness.

If you are tasting grassiness, it too fades with time. Its typically longer though. Like a couple months. This beer can be unforgiving if you make mistakes, however patience and aging this beer greatly helps as it gets cleaner with time.

Give us more information about your ingredients and the fermentation time.
 
I used rahr 2 row malt, rahr 6 row malt and flaked corn, all from homebrewsupply.com

I did find a post of some one who tried this at day 9 and day 20 and said it got alot better, so i know there is hope.

I plan to do it again, I read you can add amylase to the primary and get the same result so i may try that, forgo dry hoping and then monitor my fermentation temp. better.
 
I used rahr 2 row malt, rahr 6 row malt and flaked corn, all from homebrewsupply.com

I did find a post of some one who tried this at day 9 and day 20 and said it got alot better, so i know there is hope.

I plan to do it again, I read you can add amylase to the primary and get the same result so i may try that, forgo dry hoping and then monitor my fermentation temp. better.

So its not been very long since it finished. Right?
 
Correct its been in the bottle 2-3 days so i'm hoping it is just young, but i feel its hard to come up from where it is at now. I fermented for 7 days then transferred to 2ndary for 9 days then bottled. I put the primary in a bath tub with water but forgot to add ice packs until the 2nd day.
 
Correct its been in the bottle 2-3 days so i'm hoping it is just young, but i feel its hard to come up from where it is at now. I fermented for 7 days then transferred to 2ndary for 9 days then bottled. I put the primary in a bath tub with water but forgot to add ice packs until the 2nd day.

Oh boy. 3 days is not much at all. You need 2-3 weeks to fully carb and some time chilled. It will be quite different in about 3 - 4 weeks.

Be patient it's going to be much better than it is today.
 
I found when I first started brewing that I was drinking my beer a bit too early. I bottled, and found the last six pack was notably better than the first six.

You need to make some wheat beer. Wheat beers are good if you need something quick, not to mention they're meant to be drank fresh. This is especially good when the pipeline of beer needs filled and you're aging some other beers.

That's what I do if I run out of homebrew.
 
I brewed this on 2/8 and racked to the secondary a week late (3/1). Fermented down to 1.006 without the enzyme. I'm gonna let it sit another week (with the enzyme) then keg. This tastes great right out of the fermenter. Can't wait to try it when it's kegged.

I brewed the recipe with 1oz of cluster hops at 60 since my lhbs was out of cascade when I bought the grains.
 
How come some people have this taste great out of the fermenter when my taste bad? Is it my fermentation temp. not being controlled? I also brew in an Aluminum 8 gallon pot that has a really dark oxide layer (which i thought was good) but could this be causing any problems?
 
How come some people have this taste great out of the fermenter when my taste bad?

There may be a lot of reasons why yours isn't tasting good. How experienced are you at brewing in general? There are a couple of areas in brewing that you need to nail to crank out tasty beers;


  • Sanitation
  • Pitching Rate
  • Fermentation Temps
If you are doing all of those well then you can start looking at other things. I think I read a few posts back that you are doing all grain. With all grain you need to dial in your mash temps and mash pH. You'll want to know what kind of water you're brewing with, have the chlorine/chloramines been removed? Is your water alkaline? What sort of mineral levels are you dealing with?

Can you describe the "bad" taste? Is it an off flavor or do you just not like it? It sounds like it is extremely young still, it may just need to age. I don't think your pot has much to do with the flavor.
 
How come some people have this taste great out of the fermenter when my taste bad? Is it my fermentation temp. not being controlled? I also brew in an Aluminum 8 gallon pot that has a really dark oxide layer (which i thought was good) but could this be causing any problems?

Their opinion of bad vs good might be different than yours. Please note this is a light beer that is unforgiving of defects. However don't let that disappoint you. Time might be on your side.

I really think time will GREATLY improve your beer. Brew an american wheat and/or buy beer to drink in the mean time. Resist drinking this until it has time for the ugly duckling to become a swan.

:mug:
 
I will wait for next weekend to give it another try (that would be about 2 weeks in the bottle). I do not do any water changes, mainly cause I spent a lot of money on brewing stuff recently and just want to brew. I do not use tap water since it has a ph of 8.4, instead I use purified drinking water from HEB (grocery store in texas).

The bad taste is hard to described. When you first drink it, you don't taste much of anything but when you swallow is when you get the taste.

I made a American wheat beer from an extract kit, using tap water. This beer taste very good right after bottling so i'm not sure how bad my water is (I know its very low in Ca and high in bicarb). I have this acid blend that I got with a wine kit. I am thinking of adding .5 tsp next time I brew to help lower the ph, maybe this will make a difference (I know acid blend isn't really recommended but its all I got).
 
Looks good and I'm glad you like it. :mug:

It's outstanding. I've looked at this recipe for a few years but haven't brewed it until recently. The only issue is that my lhbs was out of cascade hops!!! I used 1oz cluster instead and I'm happy with it. I may brew it again and use saflager 34/70 instead of us05. I wonder how the enzyme would work with the lager yeast?
 
It's outstanding. I've looked at this recipe for a few years but haven't brewed it until recently. The only issue is that my lhbs was out of cascade hops!!! I used 1oz cluster instead and I'm happy with it. I may brew it again and use saflager 34/70 instead of us05. I wonder how the enzyme would work with the lager yeast?

It would work good. The original recipe had a lager yeast called out.

Yeast
-----

Fermentis US-05 Safale (For Summer brewing)
Chuck's version calls for Wyeast 2007

Wyeast 2007
 
1rst Pot

6 gallon Light Pilsner

.5 lb Carapils
.25 lb Munich Light
steeped 30 min

boil 60 min
6.5 lb Pilsen Light DME @ 60 min
1/2 oz MT Hood @ 60 min
1/2 oz Saaz @ 30 min
1.1 lb Dememara brown sugar @ 15 min
1/2 Saaz @ 5 min

Yeast US05
Fermenting @ 65*


2nd Pot

6 gallon Amber Ale

.5 lb Carapils
.65 lb Crystal 30
steeped 30 min

boil 60 min
6.5 lb Sparkling Amber DME @ 60 min
1/2 oz Amarilo @ 60 min
1/2 oz Galaxy @ 30 min
1.1 lb Dememara brown sugar @ 15 min
1/2 Galaxy @ 5 min

Yeast 1272 American Ale II
Fermenting @ 65*
2 vanilla beans soaking on 2 oz Capt Morgans Spiced Rum for a week - then into the primary

Really looking forward to this one :D
 
Went to get ingredients at lhbs yesterday. They didn't have 6 row, they said 2 row brewers malt is pretty much the replacement. Does this sound right? Will the differences be noticeable?
Thanks
 
Went to get ingredients at lhbs yesterday. They didn't have 6 row, they said 2 row brewers malt is pretty much the replacement. Does this sound right? Will the differences be noticeable?
Thanks

Yes & No. They have some interchangability. When using a healthy amount of adjuncts you need the extra enzyme that you get from 6-row. IMHO they just want to sell you 2-Row. If that's what you have, you can add a teaspoon of amylase enzyme to the mash. You need it for the secondary anyhow.

That b.s. from them would tend to piss me off because they don't know what they are talking about regarding the difference or know when it's needed. Tell them they should stock 6-Row especially if they are selling flaked adjuncts.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/zymurgy/zymurgy-extra-2-row-vs-6-row-barley/
 
Just about everything I've found I needed per recipe, they have had. I have always felt that they were pretty knowledgeable, until this instance, and they have flaked grains. I had read that the diffference between 6 row and 2 row had been the extra enzyme, but couldn't find anything suggesting that 2 row brewers malt was a replacement, and seeing as how I wanted to definitely make this, I decided to go along with it.
I have 2lbs pale malt 2 row, 1.75 brewers malt 2 row, and 1.75 flaked corn.
I did get amylase enzyme, so I'll use that in the mash as you had said. Do I still add amylase enzyme to the secondary as originally stated in the recipe as well?
Thank you very much,
Jeff
 
Yes, if you mash with AE it'll be denatured with the boil. So you need to add it for the fermentation so the yeast can take it down to 1.000
 
Have the original recipe in this thread in a big mouth bubbler on its seventh day now. I don't typically secondary so can I add the AE and my dry hop sack right into the bubbler for 2 weeks, then cold crash?
 
Have the original recipe in this thread in a big mouth bubbler on its seventh day now. I don't typically secondary so can I add the AE and my dry hop sack right into the bubbler for 2 weeks, then cold crash?

I have never done it myself. I always secondary because I don't cold crash. Several people have posted here doing what you suggest.

I think you can dissolve a teaspoon into a cup of distilled water add it then dry hop.
 
This looks interesting. I'd like to give it a try. The recipe is from 09 when secondarys were common practice. Couple questions:
I've never used an enzyme. How exactly does it get added/when?
Do you need to secondary when using an enzyme?
I'll be using 05. Just use it in the normal way? 68 for a week







It's goes back further. World Beer Cup - 1996

People usually add the dry enzyme power (amylase enzyme) to the secondary, then siphon in top of the enzyme. You siphon after a weeks length of fermentation. Let it sit for a week or two more.

I think people have dissolved enzyme in distilled water. Then dumped it in the primary after a week. The let it sit for a while.

I like the secondary, because I want zero sediment. I have extra carboys though.

I think you can do it either way.







Exactly, I've brewed variations of this many times. Quite often a hit with the ladies or the girlie guys.

As to secondary, I have preached to not secondary, avoid that transfer. I have simply dumped the amylase enzyme direct, I've also pre-boiled and re-boiled water then mixed the powder and pour the solution into the fermenter. I normally wait a week or two, measure (or not), and add the enzyme. (I say not, simply after I've brewed a grain bill a number of times, I'm comfortable with my setup and knowing the yeast did its job upon tasting. ) Yes, I stress my yeast at times but this recipe got me some wonderful remarks along with a couple of blue ribbons and a runner-up for best of show twice. Always dinged on style entered.

My setup has me in the fermenter bucket about 70 or so, if much higher I pause the yeast addition. From there my chest freezer is set to 60, I expect a 7-8 degree rise with active fermentation. I'll let this ride out to 2-3 week and keg it.
Finishes at basically 0 every time. Foolproof.

If I expect to travel or serve to guests I'll gelatin it filter it accordingly.

Oh and one very last thing, SANITIZE. There is nothing in this beer that will hide ANY imperfection.

EDIT: Just checked BeerSmith, I first brewed this on 18 July 2009. First dated copy I have in my ToDo folder is 05 July 2009.

This ^^^^^
 
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