Blonde Ale Miller Lite (Really Triple Hopped)

[Cartman98]

S05

 

[Schlenkerla]

I'm perplexed. Not sure why yours is not cranking down.

Unless your AE is still no good. I wonder if there's a way to test it...

You guys have any ideas for Cartman98?

 

[Schlenkerla]

I add hops on your schedule, dry hop in last 7 days. AE for final two weeks.
So I made this again and same thing happened! Not sure whats going on. Finished at 1.010 and that's with new AE from a different LHBS. Difference was that I noticed it actively fermenting after adding the enzyme.
Also, no beer porn since I don't have a picture account

How long has it been on AE?

 

[Cartman98]

Two weeks on AE. I kegged it though. Still good

 

[Schlenkerla]

Two weeks on AE. I kegged it though. Still good

Was thinking about this again today. How do you add your AE? What do you do step by step?

 

[Cartman98]

The first time I think I just poured it in. The second time I shook it up and made sure it was mixed in well. Probably why I had activity with the second batch.

 

[Schlenkerla]

The first time I think I just poured it in. The second time I shook it up and made sure it was mixed in well. Probably why I had activity with the second batch.

Ok - that's good.

I'm making a smoked beer that's normally a lager. Was thinking of adding AE to this particular beer.

I think dilution of AE in a cup of distilled water is the way to go. Then pour it into the carboy during the siphoning or into a primary after its done.

 

[Cartman98]

Yeah I'll try that. Makes sense that it would mix in well.

 

[Schlenkerla]

Time to make this for the baseball season.

 

[Jbrew]

Ive made this quite a few times. Its definitely a crowd pleaser. I moved the flame out addition to whirlpool/steep for 15 minutes at 180 to see how it changes.
Love how cheap it is to brew this.

 

[duelerx]

Several seem to add it in the primary fermenter at the 7th day. Then let it sit for two weeks.

I still secondary but that's how I've always done. I liked to dry hop in a secondary. It's personal preference.

If adding it at 7th day does it usually take 2 weeks to reach final gravity?, i'm thinking adding AE during primary fermentation to avoid oxygen.

 

[Schlenkerla]

If adding it at 7th day does it usually take 2 weeks to reach final gravity?, i'm thinking adding AE during primary fermentation to avoid oxygen.

Yeah typically. The change is rather slow. It's not like the primary fermentation.

 

[jdonley]

really intrigued by this recipe. was wondering if anyone has used citra along with the original grain bill? obviously scaling the amounts to fit original IBU projection

 

[Miraculix]

I'm perplexed. Not sure why yours is not cranking down.

Unless your AE is still no good. I wonder if there's a way to test it...

You guys have any ideas for Cartman98?

Haven't read the whole thread, but are you guys distinguishing between alpha and beta Amylase? If you use alpha during fermentation, it won't change much except maybe perceived sweetness of the residual sugars. But it won't increase fermentability.

What you want at this stage is beta Amylase. This one is chopping down the bigger sugars into smaller ones, rendering them more fermentable.

It might be that the cases where nothing happened just happened to be alpha.

 

[Schlenkerla]

Haven't read the whole thread, but are you guys distinguishing between alpha and beta Amylase? If you use alpha during fermentation, it won't change much except maybe perceived sweetness of the residual sugars. But it won't increase fermentability.

What you want at this stage is beta Amylase. This one is chopping down the bigger sugars into smaller ones, rendering them more fermentable.

It might be that the cases where nothing happened just happened to be alpha.

That's a good point as to what one's buying. I think the stuff I've bought hasn't made that distinction. I need to look at what I've bought in the past. I think what I've about only said "Amylase Enzyme".

OK - The bottle of LD Carlson that I have now says nothing to that aspect on the bottle. Maybe it not a controlled aspect of the enzyme types.

 

[Schlenkerla]

really intrigued by this recipe. was wondering if anyone has used citra along with the original grain bill? obviously scaling the amounts to fit original IBU projection

As the OP I have yet to hear somebody say they used Citra in this beer. So, yes. Scale the IBUs to hit 16-18 IBU. You can late addition or whirlpool to add hop flavor or do a in the keg addition with a stainless steel hop ball. Google SS Tea Ball.

This is from Crate & Barrel. It barely fits the manhole opening of my corny kegs, so it can fit a bunch of whole leaf hops. I never weigh them out, I just pack it much as possible with whole hops and drop it in my keg. I use this on my summer cask ales. Which is an ale made with Maris Otter, a little black malt, invert sugar, a neutral hop like williamette, a very attenuating ale yeast like S-05, ending with a good aroma hop. I always use whole to reduce the amount of floaties in my beer.

 

[jdonley]

can i harvest the yeast left in my carboy or will the amylase always be present?

 

[Miraculix]

I wouldn't try it.

 

[Schlenkerla]

can i harvest the yeast left in my carboy or will the amylase always be present?

Are you using a secondary?

I wouldn't try it.

I tend to agree with this typically since I use dry yeast.

 

[RevKev]

I would likely say unless you can plate and get a new clean culture to not try it, the amylase if in such a small amount will eventually become useless, per se

 

[rtstrider]

I've been eyeballing this recipe for a bit now. Been trying to find a good Florida State kickoff beer for this Florida heat. This may be a go! Will probably use the light lager water profile from Brewers Friend and will be brewing a 5 gallon batch. Have you tried bittering with say Nugget to say 18 IBUS with the bittering charge at 60 min? Looking at adding .25 oz each of cascade and centennial for both the flameout and dry hop additions. Would that be enough?

 

[Schlenkerla]

I've been eyeballing this recipe for a bit now. Been trying to find a good Florida State kickoff beer for this Florida heat. This may be a go! Will probably use the light lager water profile from Brewers Friend and will be brewing a 5 gallon batch. Have you tried bittering with say Nugget to say 18 IBUS with the bittering charge at 60 min? Looking at adding .25 oz each of cascade and centennial for both the flameout and dry hop additions. Would that be enough?

Use a recipe calculator to figure out the bitterness. That sounds like a suitable hop combination. I have used both before in a pale ale. Not in this beer though. I'd work if you did so, check the hop amounts and times with the AAU plugged into the recipe calculator.

Http://www.malt.io

 

[jdphillips73]

silly question from a noob, do I boil this for 90 mins? and let it sit at 147 for 90 mins? Ive always boiled for 60. I BIAB by the way. thanks for any advice.

 

[Schlenkerla]

silly question from a noob, do I boil this for 90 mins? and let it sit at 147 for 90 mins? Ive always boiled for 60. I BIAB by the way. thanks for any advice.

Little confused here, your question is a little out of order. Anyhow its this...

Mash for 90 minutes at 147F, mash out, lauter, then boil

Then boil as noted time and hop schedule.

If I use pilsner I like use a longer boil like 90 minutes. No hops from 90 to 60, then add as you wish. A longer boil helps with removing DMS. You just have to make sure you have the water to end up with 5-5.25 gallons after 90 minutes.

You can hop anyway you want. One addition, or the three. Just target 16 to 18 IBU with whatever hops you use. Ok

 

[cncquinn]

I’ve been eyeing up this recipe for a while and decided to pull the trigger and get the ingredients. Here’s a problem. My LHBS carries briess only, mostly because they local. Anyway he said briess stopped production on 6row. He’s going to look into getting some from other companies. But if he can’t is there a substitute or can’t I just up the 2 row the recipe calls for. From what I understand is 6 row has more protein.
Thanks

 

[Schlenkerla]

I’ve been eyeing up this recipe for a while and decided to pull the trigger and get the ingredients. Here’s a problem. My LHBS carries briess only, mostly because they local. Anyway he said briess stopped production on 6row. He’s going to look into getting some from other companies. But if he can’t is there a substitute or can’t I just up the 2 row the recipe calls for. From what I understand is 6 row has more protein.
Thanks

You need to use any brand of 6-Row mainly for the enzyme content. The enzyme is used for high amount of adjunct. That being the flaked corn.

I'd ask him to order Rahr 6-Row. That's news to me that Briess stopped making 6-Row. It's an exclusively American grain. I kind of doubt the truth to that. I may be wrong.

My guess he doesn't want to order it, he probably doesn't a lot of demand for it so its an inventory decision for him. See what he says about Rahr. If tells you to sub it with 2-Row then I would find another LHBS or discount his advice and just buy it online. I'd tell him that too. You might but other stuff to buy online as well. Odds are there's other stuff he chooses not to stock.



WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 2-ROW AND 6-ROW?
Barley grown for brewers malt is called malting barley, as opposed to feed barley, and is divided into two general types; 2-row and 6-row. The most obvious difference between a head of 2-row barley and a head of 6-row barley is the arrangement of the kernels when the head is viewed down its axis. Brewers don’t make a big deal about 2-row versus 6-row barley based on the appearance of the barley head, however. The significant differences are found upon closer examination.

In general, 6-row malted barley has more protein and enzyme content than 2-row malted barley, is thinner than two-row malt and contains less carbohydrate. There are also flavor differences between 2-row and 6-row and it seems that most brewers feel 2-row malt produces a fuller, maltier flavor and 6-row malt produces a grainier flavor in the finished beer.

The interesting fact about 6-row barley is that it is only grown in North America. Its high enzyme concentration after malting is one of the reasons cereal adjuncts like rice and corn can be used without causing problems with mash conversion. The other thing about 6-row barley is that it has become a symbol of what the European brewers don’t use. Just read the marketing materials of many imports and you will find references to the exclusive use of 2-row malted barley, implying that there is something inferior to 6-row malting barley. We don’t share that opinion since 6-row malt certainly has its place in brewing.

The link: https://www.midwestsupplies.com/differences-2row-6row

Another blurb from love 2 brew.

The most commonly used base malt for high-gravity lagers and some wheat beers. High in enzymes and smooth in flavor. Best results may be gained when brewing with large quantities of adjunct ingredients (oats/corn/rice/etc.). For wheat beers the high husk content often proves useful during the lautering process. Due to high protein content it may increase break and haze. We recommend a protein rest when brewing with 6-Row Malt.

Lovibond: 2

https://www.love2brew.com/6-Row-Brewer-s-Malt-Briess-p/wg037.htm

 

[MyQuL]

As this beer is has an FG of 1.000 does this mean it's super low in carbohydrates?

 

[Schlenkerla]

As this beer is has an FG of 1.000 does this mean it's super low in carbohydrates?

I'd say yes. My recipe calculator has a calorie or carb calculation if I can find it...

Just got a new phone... I'm also in a Hawaii in Kona on Vaca.... Give a me day or two. Ok. I have my account locked down with 2FA. Gotta get that set up.

 

[Schlenkerla]

Just checked.... It's 96 calories per beer, I'm not sure what that would be in carbs. But I imagine it's low.


http://www.malt.io/users/jedouglas429/recipes/miller-licht-bier#

 

[MyQuL]

Just checked.... It's 96 calories per beer, I'm not sure what that would be in carbs. But I imagine it's low.


http://www.malt.io/users/jedouglas429/recipes/miller-licht-bier#

Im not concerned about calories as Im not trying to lose weight, just cut out refined sugar and restrict my carbs intake (so it they turn into sugar in my body). After I posted in your thread I did a bit of googling and your beer does indeed appear to be very low in carbs. So this will deffo be my next beer to make. The new 'Brut IPA' style is also similarly low in carbs as it also uses enzymes to drop the FG as much as possible