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I'm using the x ring for the lid. They work great on all 15 kegs I have, both pin and ball lock and they are a mix of manufacturers as well, so I feel pretty confident recommending them. I believe if you look back in this thread I posted the exact ones I ordered, off hand I can't be certain if the link you posted is the same.


Edit: looks like 90025k551 is correct
 
Thanks guys! That's reassuring info. I actually found a standard one in my brewing crap, so i'm going to try that one out (i'm thinking my keg lube messed up my silicon lid o-rings, so maybe buna-n will work fine). If it doesn't work, I'm going with the x-profile. Thanks again!
 
Has anyone seen ball lock post O rings in red color? I'd like to color code my gas side to make them easier to spot.
 
Hi

Does anyone know the size of the lid oring for a Mytton / Rheem Keg? It has a round threaded cap. My keg is missing the lid oring.

Thanks
 
I'm not sure about where to find them, outside of chicompany or one of Coca Cola's suppliers, but I was able to track down the official part number and dimensions for the o-rings on pin-lock posts:

Black: Hansen P/N 902-A-292 (Coke P/N 15312) - 0.450 ID x 0.658 OD EDPM
Red: Hansen P/N 902-A-292RD (Coke P/N 25076) - 0.450 ID x 0.658 OD EDPM

That's roughly 11.5mm ID x 16.75mm OD x 2.625mm Width.

Hope that gives you O-ring gurus some more data to play with to find the exact right O-ring!

Also, additional information for the pressure relief valve found in many (most?) pin-lock kegs, that looks like this:
df-cn217lg.jpg


That O-ring is 9/16 ID x 11/16 OD x 1/16 Width; dash number 015. McMaster part #9557K467; $9.19 per 100.
 
Since someone asked in the past and others will come to this thread, I ordered 11mm ID x 3mm silicone o-rings for my pin-lock kegs and they work great. The fit is slightly tighter than the original o-rings. I switch to silicone on some my kegs so I can boil o-rings after having mixed ferment with bacteria in them.
 
Wanted to add to this thread; I recently acquired some perlick 525 faucets and wanted to replace the orings. Of course, my LHBS has them but they are like $0.50 a piece. Each faucet has several, so that adds up quickly ($8 to replace 4 sets worth). Online with mcmaster, you have the unknown shipping charge, and I found them for the appropriate $.10-$.20 at random homebrew stores online, but again the shipping.

I found them at grainger, who has local stores so you can pick up for free.
I got a 25 pack of the dash 204 for $1.77 (mcmaster is 5.48 for 100) and the silicone dash 014 10 pack for 3.42 (mcmaster is 3.62 for 25). So for $5 I have 10 sets.

So yes mcmaster is a bit cheaper per unit, but there is a grainger 2 miles from my work to pick up.. check your area for one. They also have tri clover gaskets for like $.25. Those are $1 at my LHBS.

I also found the elusive dash number for the coupling gasket on the back of the perlicks (the square oring), it's dash 018, mcmaster item 4061T123, $5.18 for 100 pack. Grainger didn't have these (in the square profile)
 
I've been trying to find the little red O-rings that fit inside my 1/2" quick disconnects. By my eyeball measurement, they're 13/16" OD and 1/8" thick (so 11/16" ID), but I could be off, as I'm just using a metal tape measure.

Anyone got a part# for that?

It's the O-ring in this picture:
611jUl63thL._SX425_.jpg


Thanks!
 
fwiw, if they are indeed 13/16" OD and 1/8" thick the ID should actually be 9/16. If they were 1/16" thick then the ID would be 11/16"...

Right. I knew that... :) D'oh!

Now that I'm looking with a better ruler, they appear to be 7/8" (14/16), and still 1/8" thick, for an ID of 5/8" (because: -1/8 on each side <G>)

But, really, that's just me eyeballing it against a ruler. The important thing is: it's the washer that goes on the inside of the female 1/2" QD, as pictured above.
 
PIN LOCK POST O-RING SOLVED!!!

Okay, sorry for the yelling above, but I wanted to get your attention. After I switched my gas lines to reinforced lines and beer lines to 3/16” BevSeal (no more beer tasting like water from a garden hose), I developed frequent gas leaks and occasional beer leaks. The reinforced gas lines and BevSeal are much stiffer than the beer/gas lines most use, which caused the fitting to torque and twist. After losing several tanks of CO2, reading this entire post several times and many other posts, I decided to take a hit for the team. Here is what tried:

No. 1. -112 BUNA
No. 2. -112 Silicone
No. 3. 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 4. 12mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 2.5mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 5. 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone
No. 6. 10mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3.5mm (Diameter) Silicone

I decided to go with 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone for the beer post and 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone for the gas post. The inside diameter of Nos. 1 & 2 were too big. The 2.5mm diameter of No. 4 was too small for the groove, and I did not get a snug connection. The 3.5mm diameter of No. 6 was just too thick to fit in the groove.

No. 3 works well on the beer post; it takes a little stretching, but is nice and snug. No. 5 on the gas post is downright tight and takes a little wiggling to get it off. It may be too tight for some. I did not try 11mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone because I could not find them in small quantities, but it is right between the two and may be just right. I also don’t know how well BUNA would work. It seems less stretchy to me and might make No. 3 too hard to get on the post and No. 5 too hard to get the connector on post. I’ll leave it someone else to try BUNA and 11mm (ID) X 17mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone.

I ordered small quantities on Amazon from here:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MKXQ9M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (10 pcs. for $3.49 - 10mm (ID) X 16mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ASY3Y8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (10 pcs. for $3.47 - 12mm (ID) X 18mm (OD) X 3mm (Diameter) Silicone)
Larger quantities (and the 11x17x3 in silicone) can be purchased at http://www.oringsandmore.com/.

I welcome others to carry the torch from here and post their results. I’ve also attached a few photos.
No. 5 is on the left, a BUNA -111 (agreed ball lock size) in the middle, and No 3 on the right.

View attachment 179689

View attachment 179690

View attachment 179691


To follow up this post, I'm going through replacing all of my o-rings in my pin lock kegs. I frequently had the same issue with a little bit of side pressure on the gas disconnect causing a slight leak, so I wanted to try these out. I ended up with the 10x3mm for liquid outs, and 11x3mm for the gas outs. I as able to find them at http://www.oringsandmore.com for pretty cheap since I couldn't find the 11mm on Amazon.

Liquid post: http://www.oringsandmore.com/silicone-o-rings-10-x-3mm-price-for-10-pcs/
Gas post: http://www.oringsandmore.com/silicone-o-rings-11-x-3mm-price-for-10-pcs/

I've also always had a problem using the -109 rings for the diptubes. They always sealed ok, but the first time you would remove the post, the dip tube ring would be chewed up and usually split in two from the threads. I found these to help with that, and they seem to work a bit better: http://www.oringsandmore.com/x-rings-size-109-price-for-10-pcs/

Add in a few packs of the lid o-rings from Amazon, and a 100 pack of universal poppets from Aliexpress, and I've got the parts to completely rebuild 50 kegs for around 80 bucks. I've made it through about 18 of my 30 kegs, and so far all of them are working great.
 
Now if we can just determine the O ring size for the Chugger stainless steel classic pump head. No, it's not the same as the March pump O ring.

Also, the links in the original post. Are any of these food grade? I see no mention or indication of food grade when I check the link in the OP.
 
Not sure if this is already been asked somewhere in this thread, but does anyone know the McMaster-car part numbers for replacement o-rings for the SS Brew bucket racking arm, and ball valve?
 
Not sure if this is already been asked somewhere in this thread, but does anyone know the McMaster-car part numbers for replacement o-rings for the SS Brew bucket racking arm, and ball valve?

Don't buy the same ones. Buy ones that are a little thicker and they're a lot less fussy. The actual size of the SS Brewtech ones are listed in the description on their webpage.
 
Or not!


McMaster-Carr <[email protected]>
1:55 PM (1 minute ago)
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Hi Chris,

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