The older kegs use a plastic dip tube for the gas side with a flare fitting no o-ring. I did a retrofit instead to stainless diptube using these instructions, works fine.It won't take a normal dip tube. Does this post even use an o-ring or how does it seal?
Looks like from your pic it is a flare fitting in the bulkhead so no o-ring. The original ones (plastic) would crack, flatten, or chip over time due to wear and tear of removing to clean etc..Any seriously...no o-ring???
Like most older kegs and different capacities there are variations with lids, posts etc depending on date of manufacture. I gave the folks at "chicompany" a call when I was trying to source gaskets, lid PRV's, and post o-rings for my older 10Gal kegs. The person I spoke with asked for specific markings and #'s on the keg and were able to provide the exact replacements required.but that wouldn't explain the gas post? I used dip tube and o ring on those
That plastic dip tube certainly looks tapered to me. not a huge taper but it does neck down.Here you go. I have to purge some kegs thus weekend anyway. It's not the tapered one I was thinking of. Was holding pressure fine before I took the post off.
No its more like a phillips round pan head. Here's a pic contrasting it with a tapered tube I have from an old keg. I saved the tubes and keg posts. This particular keg had those hat shaped inserts that the poppets needed to sit on (second pic). On the pan head dip tube, that oring sits on top of the post mount, not inside, and the post sits on top of the dip tube. I can't say for certain someone didn't change it out however. The dip tube is fairly worn and the oring does look a little overcompressed. It holds pressure fine, never had any problems with it. I did put thetapered one in the keg and it sits flush but the oring doesn't fit it, it's too big, and the dip tube itself seems a little loose. I think the hat pieces on the tapered dip tube are what sealed the posts on that old keg.That plastic dip tube certainly looks tapered to me. not a huge taper but it does neck down.
Pretty sure that's wrong. The dip tube is beveled because the inside of the post is also beveled. That o-ring would screw up the fit. It wasn't easy, but I finally got my hands on everything I needed to get my two "free" racetrack kegs to hold pressure, and there are no o-rings on the gas side. I'm still not entirely sure how they seal; I guess the spacers are compressible enough.What I thought would be considered tapered they are calling Beveled Plastic Gas Dip Tube. And Williams says that one should have a gasket too.
I lean towards agreeing with you but I didn't get that one working. I didn't have an oring either but the lid leaked even after buying a new one. Williams may have copied that in as the oring suggested is the same as other dip tube. Chi Company goes into detail about remanufacturing that style dip tube (again the beveled one) but doesn't mention an oring.Pretty sure that's wrong. The dip tube is beveled because the inside of the post is also beveled. That o-ring would screw up the fit. It wasn't easy, but I finally got my hands on everything I needed to get my two "free" racetrack kegs to hold pressure, and there are no o-rings on the gas side. I'm still not entirely sure how they seal; I guess the spacers are compressible enough.
edit - but just to be absolutely clear, none of that has anything to do with the Challenger VI AFAIK
I just got a Firestone keg. My dip tube has a smaller o-ring than a normal corny keg. If I did the precedure in this link would I use the smaller o-ring or a normal sized o-ring. It doesn't seem like the normal sized o-ring fits into the keg post.. Thanks.The older kegs use a plastic dip tube for the gas side with a flare fitting no o-ring. I did a retrofit instead to stainless diptube using these instructions, works fine.
http://brokenglassbrewing.blogspot.com/2010/08/quick-easy-corny-keg-modification.html
I kept my old originals, but they are so beat up that they're useless for reference. I mean, if the spacers weren't such a mess maybe the damned posts wouldn't be leaking in the first place, right? So it was shave a nanometer, try, fail, shave another nanometer, etc, etc."If you have an old original spacer, KEEP IT for reference. These aftermarket spacers need to be filed down to original size in some applications.
I had to take 3mm off which I ended up doing with a thin bladed saw.I kept my old originals, but they are so beat up that they're useless for reference. I mean, if the spacers weren't such a mess maybe the damned posts wouldn't be leaking in the first place, right? So it was shave a nanometer, try, fail, shave another nanometer, etc, etc.