Maximum time to leave beer in primary fermenter...

[FlyGuy]

All my beers (generally ales) now sit in the primary for 2 - 4 weeks. Then I rack to a keg, which I might condition/age for 2 weeks to 6 months, depending on the brew. I think my beers are better for it, and I sure don't miss racking and washing that extra carboy.

I am really starting to re-think the long-standing advice that you need to get your beer off the yeast in the primary after one week. Concerns over autolysis are obviously exaggerated for homebrewing (based on the obvious success here and by very successful homebrewers like JZ and JP), and there does seem to be some merit in keeping your beer in the same vessel as your full yeast mass while it conditions.

So perhaps the emerging rule should be a two-week period in the primary MINIMUM? (And perhaps even longer for bigger brews that undergo a more complex fermentation.)

 

[HarvInSTL]

Most of my ales see a min 2 week primary. Meaning I normally add at least 1 week to its primary time after I've hit my FG. With most seeing closer to 4 weeks in primary.

My lagers have spent 3+ months in primary with no ill effects and great remarks from BJCP judges.

 

[jdoiv]

I haven't used a secondary in years. I leave it in the primary for 2-3 weeks then keg (sometimes bottle) and let sit for 3+weeks depending on the beer. Has worked out great so far and I don't have the additional hassle of secondaries.

 

[RoaringBrewer]

I'm excited to see this kind of response... I let my beers in primary for 2-4 weeks (2 weeks for wheats usually - 3-4 for all others), but I never knew there was any merit to it; I just do it because I'm a little lazy and don't like racking/cleaning. Hahaha...

Glad to know this actually good for my beer - before I got lazy I was always doing the 1-2-3 rule... I like the 3-6 rule much better...

 

[Saint Arnould]

I am assuming that all of you Long-Primary People use glass? I was always told that the plastic buckets (like the one I am still using) are too oxygen-permeable, therefore, I just moved my Belgian Amber to a glass secondary after 5 days in the bucket. I will leave it there for a month or so......

 

[Bosh]

I am assuming that all of you Long-Primary People use glass? I was always told that the plastic buckets (like the one I am still using) are too oxygen-permeable, therefore, I just moved my Belgian Amber to a glass secondary after 5 days in the bucket. I will leave it there for a month or so......

Well glass is better but if you can mostly submerge the plastic bucket in water I assume that there's no many places (except the lid) where the oxygen can get in...

But that's just what I do

 

[Idlehanz]

I was originally going to transfer my primary this weekend to secondary for dryhopping ( after one week in primary ) but after reading this thread, I think I'll let it sit one, if not two weeks longer.

It's an IIPA with

OG = 1.091

Estimated FG = 1.021

IBU= 62

ABV = 8.5


Can't wait to try it, but I'd rather open a great beer then a decent one.

Oh and I use all glass carboys.

 

[DeathBrewer]

good call

 

[liljimmynorton]

I just got back into brewing after having two kids and anything that can save me time is an option. I have opted to do longer primaries with little or no secondaries. I have a Bell's Two Hearted clone in for about 3 weeks so far and it is tasting wonderful. I will probably transfer to keg in about another week and carb for 1 week. With a 1 year old and a 3 year old ANYTHING that saves time is worth it's weight in gold.

 

[LaurieGator]

I have to chime in after a one year hiatus from brewing...

I had a Porter and a Double Chocolate Stout that I brewed last May. I observed proper fermentation temps and good sanitation. The Porter was in a glass carboy, the Stout was in a plastic carboy.

Fast forward to Memorial Day weekend of this year. Work had me going 6 days a week and 12-16 hour days. Needless to say,both beers were still in the carboys on Memorial Day a year later. What the heck, I added a half a package of Notty yeast to each bottling bucket and put them in bottles.

The porter and stout are 2 of the best beers I have ever made! They are so smooth and the flavor is out of this world. Those are now a private stock that will be tasted only by really close friends

I would not repeat the experience if I had the choice but wanted everyone to know that I left mine in primary for over a year without any adverse effects. Of course YMMV, we are not professionals and feel free to try this at home!

 

[ceannt]

I stopped transfering to secondary about 20-years ago.... My average time in Primary is anywhere from 5-7 weeks. No problems with clarity... and my beer improved dramatically. I don't use glass, never have on a regular basis... PITA to clean, heavy and bad things happen when dropped. I don't see (or taste) any negative affects of the plastic compared to glass (the few times I have used glass) It's amazing how many things that I've been doing for years are becoming "accepted" or are considered the "new" way of doing thinigs, that back in the '80s were considered heretical.... and would have gotten me burnt at the stake if the "beer inquisition" had known....

 

[travis123]

Use books & kit instructions for information to develop your own style of brewing. Iff we all followed instructions to the letter there would be no development.

Regards Trevor

Lancashire UK

 

[user 213331]

I have only been home brewing for nine months and like brewing high ABV IPA (really APA) and Pale Ales. I am a total Hop Head (citrus/spice aroma and a bitter finish). I generally Primary for 7 - 12 days (less than one bubble per 90 seconds) and then transfer to a secondary to dry hop for seven days. I have been very happy with both IPA/APA brews and satisfied with the Pale's.

Reading this thread leads me to think, I should consider going at least three weeks in the Primary, then add the hops to the Primary (for dry hopping) for another four to seven days before bottling. Am I on the right track?

Also, due to some carbing problems with my first Brown and Amber Ale, I have been using Bottle Conditioning yeast. Is this necessary for IPA/APA or Pale Ales? To ensure adequate yeast transfer from the Primary or Secondary, do I need to stir up the trub, or is there still enough suspended yeast for good carbing?

 

[Schlenkerla]

I posted a few comments awhile back.... actually years ago.... 3-4 weeks in the primary is pretty normal, going longer is ok. Kind of like you stated, if you let the yeast drop out you might have too add bottling yeast.

I switched to kegging and that issue is a thing of the past. I personally don't like adding yeast a second time. I'd rather bottle condition longer and at a higher temperature. You can also rouse the yeast every few days too. Shake the bottles.

Key, I think is try to bottle within 6 weeks for a session beer. If I was add yeast at bottling I'd do "Muntons Premium Gold" for compact sedimentation. Sometimes you just have to do it for big beers.

Take look at published yeast flocculation percentages. Flocculation is about how much stays in suspension. Lower numbers will be more forgiving on carbing as the beer sits waiting for you.

Also weigh out your priming sugars, boil water, and bulk prime if you're not doing this already. A common rookie problem with priming is volume measurement vs weighing. Go to a gram scale measurement for more resolution, accuracy, less rounding. Don't forget about your total priming volume if it's more than 5 gallons you might need bump up the priming amount.

As for dry hopping, I always do a 2ndary. I like my beer clear and without sediment. That said, dry hop no longer than two weeks other wise the beer will get a grassy taste.

 

[Schlenkerla]

Muntons Description of Premium Gold

"The yeast rehydrates at 20°C and therefore simply requires sprinkling onto the surface of your wort - no need to stir - and the yeast will rehydrate and activate within just a few hours.

The yeast has excellent crusting characteristics forming a firm 'jelly like' deposit at the bottom of the fermenter and bottle or barrel.

Flavour profile is excellent and the yeast has the ability to drop out of suspension very rapidly.

There is a major benefit if you are bottling your beer. When pouring your beer you will not disturb the firm yeast sediment and therefore can fill your glass safe in the knowledge that it will be a clear bright pint.

This benefit also applies when you are siphoning your beer from the fermenter into your bottles or barrel. Once again the firm crusting characteristics will ensure that you transfer all of your beer to your bottles or barrel and therefore will not waste any."

 

[TasunkaWitko]

For what it's worth - I bottled two beers about a week and a half ago that I had forgotten about (long story); one is based on an American Pale Ale and the other is based on a Saison.

They ended up being in primary for over two months, and seemed just fine. The only thing I noticed is that the colour seems to be a bit darker than expected, but for all I know, they should have been that colour, so I can't say for sure.

They smelled fine, and the small sample taken at bottling indicated that they tasted fine, as well. In fact, one of them might be my best yet. I'll give them another week or so, then refrigerate for a week or so - and then sample.

 

[65C]

Not sure what the rules are on reviving old threads - but I've got a 3 week cycle going at the moment - where I brew weekly with 3 carboys - so have 3 in-progress brews in primary

Now the times I'm leaving longer on primary I'm getting better beer - so I'm thinking of adding another carboy or two and extending to 4 or 5 weeks in primary before bottling etc.

I'm finding keeping the first 5-7 days at 18C or below the ferment more stable and it's not a big deal when it goes up to room temp for week 2, 3 etc.

 

[Dcpcooks]

You should be fine at 4-5 weeks in primary. After that you may have some autolysis beginning. You'll have more risk if you let it get too warm.

Most of your yeast flavor profiles are created in the first 3-5 days. So that's where temp control is the most important. You have more flexibility for temp raises after that with less impact of off flavors. Keep in mind you still may have some negative flavors happen if you let it get very hot. Or you may see the yeast stall if you let it get cold.

 

[65C]

thanks - the room temp is fairly stable - I'll try moving from 3 to 4 weeks for a bit - I had some off temps fermenting at room temp (20C+) so I've started the ferm at 16-18C in a fridge and it seems more stable now

I'm finding that time really is a massive factor - I know it's talked about a lot - but it really does, for me anyway, seem like +/- 80% of beer quality is drink point time related - a crap beer improves and a good beer can deteriorate depending on the elapsed time massively

 

[Beardown]

Almost every pro I've talked to goes from brew day to keg day in about 10 days total... from what I understand this is due to the fact that the temp is precisely controlled more thn us home brewers have the ability to do. Also their ability to draw gravity samples more frequently with much less risk of contamination. So they know the exact moment the ferm is done. Thoughts on this? Cheers

 

[Dcpcooks]

Almost every pro I've talked to goes from brew day to keg day in about 10 days total... from what I understand this is due to the fact that the temp is precisely controlled more thn us home brewers have the ability to do. Also their ability to draw gravity samples more frequently with much less risk of contamination. So they know the exact moment the ferm is done. Thoughts on this? Cheers

It's relatively easy to get under 14 days for home brew at normal abv levels. Pro breweries have a few differences. They are very good at ph control, they have very large healthy pitches of yeast and pitch at a much higher ratio than hombrewers. Their wort production is very consistent plus they are making the same beers on a continual basis so they have experience to go by. They us o2 at correct levels and control fermentation temps consistently.

 

[Beardown]

Yea , higher pitch rates are another thing that they all point out;