Mashing with chuggers

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Surf_Brew_Imbibe_805

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So I'm still a fairly new/inexperienced homebrewer, however after some successful batches on my beginner setup (and some extra cash in the bank) I decided to upgrade my system to a single tier, three keggle HERMS system with two SS chugger pumps. I've brewed just one batch on it so far and everything is working great, but I do have a question about batch sparging with the chuggers. So, I have a keggle mash tun with SS hinged false bottoms and 5/8" dip tube from brewhardware (love bobby's stuff), and not being very experienced with some of science/engineering of all this stuff I wasn't sure if I should completely drain my first runnings. Is it safe to drain the mash tun completely with the grain bed set on top of the mesh screen? Just wasn't sure if it would somehow collapse the false bottom, or if I could cavitate the pump... Any feedback is appreciated, cheers!
 
I've only batch sparged once with my E-HERMS system. My MLT is a Keggle like yours. I don't have the 5/8 tube. I have 3/8.

To drain just run it maybe 1/3 open on the valve or less. That will reduced the flow rate. I have the "pie plate" false bottom, but I have no problems with it crushing it.

Only problem if you go to "suck air" is might be a PITA to reprime. The lower you mount your pumps the easier priming is.

Honest question: Have you considered fly sparging? You have the equipment for it. It tends to be easier and more efficient.
 
Yes I have thought about it, my only issue right now is that I recirculate the wort back into my MT using a Locline and I haven't figured out how I would evenly disburse the sparge water over the grain bed with that. I'll attach some pictures of my system if I can figure it out...


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For best efficiency in batch sparging you do want to completely pull off the first runnings before adding sparge liquor.
Stop when the Chugger screams ;)

As for collapsing a false bottom, that happens when pumping hard against a stuck bed. Given the large area of an FB it doesn't take much suction pressure to end up with hundreds of pounds of force - way more than even wet grain.

Cheers!
 
My recirc line is just a silicone hose.

When fly sparging the flow is slow, so it doesn't channel.

I take 60-90 minutes to sparge.

Inflow is just enough to keep 1 inch of water on top of the grains
 
Yes I have thought about it, my only issue right now is that I recirculate the wort back into my MT using a Locline and I haven't figured out how I would evenly disburse the sparge water over the grain bed with that. I'll attach some pictures of my system if I can figure it out...

I don’t have a 3 vessel HERMS so you can take what I say with a grain of salt but from what I’ve seen as long as there is an inch or two or liquid above the grain bed you should be ok with the lock line. All you’ll have to do is keep the flow rate up and you can control that with the ball valves...may take some trial and error but you’ll get some good efficiency.

:mug:
 
My recirc line is just a silicone hose.

When fly sparging the flow is slow, so it doesn't channel.

I take 60-90 minutes to sparge.

Inflow is just enough to keep 1 inch of water on top of the grains

So this is where my inexperience comes in, because I thought that would dilute the first runnings? I thought the fly sparge was suppose to be more of a "rinse" of the grains
 
You are going to slowly rinse the grains 2-5 times over the course of an hour. Water will only make one pass.

It's the most efficient sparge
 
When you fly sparge, the only dispersion you need is such to keep the incoming water from boring down into the grain. Once you have the locline positioned horizontally about 1/2" over the grain bed and let 1-2" of water flood in, you've got it made. Flow in at about a one gallon per 5 minutes and flow the wort out at about the same speed. Collecting 7 gallons of preboil should take you at least 30 minutes. For a 10 gallon batch, an hour.
 
Yes I have thought about it, my only issue right now is that I recirculate the wort back into my MT using a Locline and I haven't figured out how I would evenly disburse the sparge water over the grain bed with that. I'll attach some pictures of my system if I can figure it out...


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I typically use a small stainless steel colander for dispersing sparge water while fly sparging. As others have noted having the grain bed covered in a couple inches of water is far more important.
 

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