Mashing at 1.25 quarter per pound of grain is larger than my batch!

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adamjackson

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I'm doing a very big beer today. I have 382 ounces of total grain which is equal to 23.xx pounds. At this equation of 1.25 gallons per pound of grain, that's 28.75 quarts or 7.18 gallons of mash water.

But wait...my batch size is only 5 gallons!

So, I know grains absorb some liquid but my confusion is, if I mash in with over 7 gallons of water, for a 5 gallon batch, is this still okay? Should I drop it a bit and do no more than 5 or 6 gallons?
 
Grain absorption is usually around 0.1 gallons (a little less if you BIAB and squeeze, a little more if you do a traditional all-grain). So you'll lose 2.3 gallons to absorption, leaving you with only 4.8 gallons of wort. You'll also need to account for boil-off, which is contingent on your system, in order to calculate the volume of wort you should have pre-boil.

If it were me I'd mash just a touch thicker (1.1qt/lb) and then sparge with whatever volume gets you to your pre-boil volume after accounting for absorption and boil-off rate.
 
grain absorption is usually around 0.1 gallons (a little less if you biab and squeeze, a little more if you do a traditional all-grain). So you'll lose 2.3 gallons to absorption, leaving you with only 4.8 gallons of wort. You'll also need to account for boil-off, which is contingent on your system, in order to calculate the volume of wort you should have pre-boil.

If it were me i'd mash just a touch thicker (1.1qt/lb) and then sparge with whatever volume gets you to your pre-boil volume after accounting for absorption and boil-off rate.

thanks!~
 
You should lose about 1.5 gallons to absorption but you will still need to sparge to get your OG. You can drop down to 1 qt per lb but it will be thick and you will need to stir to make sure you get good contact. I would also mash for another 1/2 hour to compensate. A beer that big really needs a bigger BK, but I think you already have figured that out. LOL
 
My brew kettle is only 8 gallons..I just see this all as an issue that I didn't really foresee until now.

Since it's over 23 lbs. of grain, I think you'll be ok.
The more grain you have, the more absortion will take place.
My last 2 brews were only about 12-14 lbs of grain and I had almost 4.5 gallons of strike water and 4 gallons of sparge water.
If you use a program and have it set to a certain amount of pre-boil wort (mine is 6.5 gallons), I'd follow the numbers as it says.

If you think it'll be too close, you could always sub some of the base malt for LME or DME, to lower the grain bill, in effect lowering the water volume.
 
I normally see 1/10th to 1/8th of a gallon per lb. water absorption rate, so at that rate 23 lbs. of grain is going to absorb somewhere between 2 and 3 gallons of beer. I don't know if others have observed different ratios. Additionally, if you want to end up with five gallons post-boil, you'll need to remember that you're going to boil off something between 1-2 gallons during your hour-long boil. Again, this is highly dependent upon your equipment setup, procedures and the ambient conditions (temperature, humidity, wind, etc.) However, I don't think you're going to have to worry about ending up with too much wort. You may want to make a rather stiff mash (some people will mash as stiff as 1 qt/lb or even .75 qt/lb) in order to give yourself enough room to sparge.

The alternative would be to do a no-sparge. If you mash in at 1.5 qt/lb, after grain absorption you should get around 5.9 gal. of wort, which after boiling down should get you into the neighborhood of 5 gallons, depending on your boil-off rate.

Either way, whether you go with a stiff mash and sparge or no-sparge, you should anticipate your efficiency being lower than what it would be with a normal gravity beer--this is common with high-gravity beers. One way to not waste all the sugars left behind in your mash is to go no-sparge for the big beer, drain off your wort and boil, then sparge and make a second, smaller beer with the second runnings from your grain. Check out "partigyle brewing" for more details, and braukaiser.com has a great spreadsheet for helping you calculate your outputs--I've used it several times in the past and I hit the numbers right on almost all the time.

Plugging your numbers into braukaiser's spreadsheet, it looks like you could do a partigyle and make 5 gallons of post-boil wort with an OG of 1.096 from the first runnings, then make a second, smaller beer of 5 gallons (post-boil) with an OG of 1.039. Partigyle is a fun way to make a bunch of beer all at once, it just requires having a big enough mash tun. Hope that's helpful.
 
braceful said:
Grain absorption is usually around 0.1 gallons (a little less if you BIAB and squeeze, a little more if you do a traditional all-grain). So you'll lose 2.3 gallons to absorption, leaving you with only 4.8 gallons of wort. You'll also need to account for boil-off, which is contingent on your system.

^^ this
 
Awesome. You guys rock. I found a lot of these answers online but HBT always adds a second and valuable opinion. So, it's an IMperial stout..obviously and I added a bit more grain + recrushed some grain from midwest so I can get as close as possible to a decent efficiency. not sure what additions this beer will get in the secondary but the mash tun is now pretty close to the top. Did a 6.5 gallon mash at 152 in a 10 gallon tun. It smells great. Just put on the lid after a pretty intense air pocket annihilation which took quite a bit of time.

This cooler keeps heat really well as long as I put a bunch of towels on the lid (most heat escapes through that) so I'll keep it in here for 2-3 hours and then sparge.
 
Before you attempt this beast.... have you resolved your other efficiency issues yet? It is usually a good idea to really lock in your process before you start pushing the edges. It's a lot easier to knock out a bunch of lower gravity, quick turnaround beers than huge imperial stouts that take 6+ months to age.


edit: sorry, didn't notice you already started this one. Good luck. You might want to schedule some "normal" beers in the rotation to hammed out your process while you are waiting for this one to be drinkable.
 
Before you attempt this beast.... have you resolved your other efficiency issues yet? It is usually a good idea to really lock in your process before you start pushing the edges. It's a lot easier to knock out a bunch of lower gravity, quick turnaround beers than huge imperial stouts that take 6+ months to age.


edit: sorry, didn't notice you already started this one. Good luck. You might want to schedule some "normal" beers in the rotation to hammed out your process while you are waiting for this one to be drinkable.

This has been resolved. Please look at the previous thread.

Crushing the grains resolved the efficiency issues.
 
Awesome. You guys rock. I found a lot of these answers online but HBT always adds a second and valuable opinion. So, it's an IMperial stout..obviously and I added a bit more grain + recrushed some grain from midwest so I can get as close as possible to a decent efficiency. not sure what additions this beer will get in the secondary but the mash tun is now pretty close to the top. Did a 6.5 gallon mash at 152 in a 10 gallon tun. It smells great. Just put on the lid after a pretty intense air pocket annihilation which took quite a bit of time.

This cooler keeps heat really well as long as I put a bunch of towels on the lid (most heat escapes through that) so I'll keep it in here for 2-3 hours and then sparge.

Good Luck with the brew.
I made the Kate the Great clone back in January and just bottled it in October. It was a PM on the stove top and was my last indoor brew before my wife bought me a cooler and kicked me outside.
I bottled it in October and popped one last weekend. It was carbed (re-pitched a packet of dry at bottling) and tasted awesome.
You could follow the secondary additions in that thread and you won't be diaspointed. I did oak chips soaked in port wine. The port is very forward but it does mask some of the alcolhol heat (10.5% ABV) and makes for an almost too drinkable big stout.
 
Good Luck with the brew.
I made the Kate the Great clone back in January and just bottled it in October. It was a PM on the stove top and was my last indoor brew before my wife bought me a cooler and kicked me outside.
I bottled it in October and popped one last weekend. It was carbed (re-pitched a packet of dry at bottling) and tasted awesome.
You could follow the secondary additions in that thread and you won't be diaspointed. I did oak chips soaked in port wine. The port is very forward but it does mask some of the alcolhol heat (10.5% ABV) and makes for an almost too drinkable big stout.

The timing of this and when it's "ready" will be hard to tell. I imagine it'll say in the primary for 2 months then receive a secondary addition of something and spend a few more months just sitting around in the cellar. I did a 9% stout with coffee. It sat for 3 months and probably could have sat longer.
 
The timing of this and when it's "ready" will be hard to tell. I imagine it'll say in the primary for 2 months then receive a secondary addition of something and spend a few more months just sitting around in the cellar. I did a 9% stout with coffee. It sat for 3 months and probably could have sat longer.

Mine was originally supposed to be "ready" to drink at the end of October.
It was for her birthday as she's a huge fan of RIS's.
One stout led to another and well we have a new assistant brewer due to arrive within the week.
I just let it sit in secondary for a few extra months and now it'll be ready to drink when she's back on her feet.
 
Mine was originally supposed to be "ready" to drink at the end of October.
It was for her birthday as she's a huge fan of RIS's.
One stout led to another and well we have a new assistant brewer due to arrive within the week.
I just let it sit in secondary for a few extra months and now it'll be ready to drink when she's back on her feet.

With big beers, time is always good. I'm impatient. 4 months is probably my max.

I have a berliner weisse brewed in September and that pellicle is looking so nice!
 
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