Mash Tun parts!

[jrc64]

I went to lowes last night to get all the parts for homemade mash tun. Problem was parts list all called for Watt A---- items (I.e. watts a-786). Lowes had the parts (I Think), but they were labeled Watts LFA--- (i.e. watts LFA 786). Are the LFA the same as the A items? They sure look the same.

Also, the parts (ball valve, Inside nipple), dont screw ALL the way on and leaves so much loose space that it causes leaks in the tun.

Any help would be tremendously appreciated.

 

[glick]

I used teflon tape on all of my connections and tightened them up as much as I could.

 

[NTXBrauer]

I used teflon tape on all of my connections and tightened them up as much as I could.

^^^This

The teflon tape should seal the connection. It is normal to not be able to screw a fitting in all the way.

 

[jrc64]

^^^This

The teflon tape should seal the connection. It is normal to not be able to screw a fitting in all the way.

So, I'm assuming that the connection will be quite lose. Like, even after its as tight as i can make it, I can still push it foward and back with lots of play. I can even turn the ball lock in circles. I just cant get it snug at all.

 

[NTXBrauer]

Sounds like you have a mismatch in size. There should be no play at all in the connection.

 

[NTXBrauer]

Actually, you might need additional washers to tighten the connection onto the cooler. Are your fittings loose, or is the valve tightly fitted together, but you are able to rotate it?

 

[501irishred]

The original watts part number would have been A-786, the LF stands for lead free so is now LF A-786.

As for your loose connection, NTXBrauer may be right. Dry fit your parts to see if they seem to tighten down correctly. If not, make sure the parts all say NPT (National Pipe Thread) or MIP/FIP (Male Iron Pipe or Female Iron Pipe). These are the same tapered thread style and should mate together. You may have come by a mix of NPT and maybe compression or other style. The NPT or IP are tapered and will probably not utilize the full thread but should for sure tighten. And as mentioned use Teflon tape to make a good seal.

 

[insanim8er]

Actually, you might need additional washers to tighten the connection onto the cooler. Are your fitting loose, or is the valve tightly fitted together, but you are able to rotate it?

+1 My cooler requires two washers to tighten

 

[Backwoodsbrewing]

Just finished building two. Stainless nipples, washers, NSF gaskets with manifolds one copper one cpvc. Have not checked for leaks yet. Should the water be hot

 

[NTXBrauer]

Yes. You want to test your mash tun with hot water. I would suggest a little warmer that what you expect to strike with. (175F+) The hot water will increase the internal pressure and help to identify any leaks.

 

[jrc64]

Actually, you might need additional washers to tighten the connection onto the cooler. Are your fittings loose, or is the valve tightly fitted together, but you are able to rotate it?

Fittings are tight as I can get with 2 washers on front, and still lots of play.

 

[MichaelBrock]

Maybe try adding a third washer? I think I ended up with 2 inside, and one outside and mine is pretty tight. The original build thread:

Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

has 3 washers on the inside and 1 on the outside. Did you manage to get stainless washers at Lowes?

 

[jrc64]

The original watts part number would have been A-786, the LF stands for lead free so is now LF A-786.

As for your loose connection, NTXBrauer may be right. Dry fit your parts to see if they seem to tighten down correctly. If not, make sure the parts all say NPT (National Pipe Thread) or MIP/FIP (Male Iron Pipe or Female Iron Pipe). These are the same tapered thread style and should mate together. You may have come by a mix of NPT and maybe compression or other style. The NPT or IP are tapered and will probably not utilize the full thread but should for sure tighten. And as mentioned use Teflon tape to make a good seal.

Definitely all the right parts. The brass pipe that goes through the cooler is LFA-786 (3/8 in MIP X 1-1/2 in FIB). The inside adaptor is LFA-298 (3/8 in ID X 3/8 in FIP). The outside connection is a 3/ inch threaded ball valve.

I can only get the ball valve and inside adaptor to turn a couple turns onto brass pipe (LFA-786). There probably is around a good 1/4" - 1/2" of thread still exposed on each end after tightning as much as I can.

 

[jrc64]

Maybe try adding a third washer? I think I ended up with 2 inside, and one outside and mine is pretty tight. The original build thread:

Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

has 3 washers on the inside and 1 on the outside. Did you manage to get stainless washers at Lowes?

Actually got the stainless washers at Home Depot. It was the create-a-bolt kit.

Here's a dumb question. Does the little gasket that you originally take off the cooler spigot go back in the same way it came out or do you turn around?

 

[NTXBrauer]

It should be placed back on the same way.

 

[jrc64]

It should be placed back on the same way.

3 stainless washers inside and 3 fender washers outside. No leaks after 15 minutes. Not as tight as I'd like, but no leaks. Will probably need to hold ball valve when opening and closing as to not disturb the fittings.

 

[insanim8er]

I don't think this was covered, but be sure to soak your brass in a solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide.

Stainless steel is always better because brass fittings—especially from lowes or Home Depot—can contain lead, so you want to remove the surface lead before use. Be careful not to over soak or you can possibly expose more lead.

 

[Bithead]

John Palmer says less than 5 minutes for pickling brass.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html

 

[jrc64]

I don't think this was covered, but be sure to soak your brass in a solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide.

Stainless steel is always better because brass fittings—especially from lowes or Home Depot—can contain lead, so you want to remove the surface lead before use. Be careful not to over soak or you can possibly expose more lead.

These were LFA parts (lead free). The only issue may be the ball valve, but I'm guessing that may not be all that a big a deal.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Bobby_M]

You have to buy the parts with the anticipation that you will have to improvise because no two NPT parts necessarily mesh after the same number of turns. Even buying "watts" brand threaded nipples will have variation. Buy more washers than you think you need. Buy 3 different length threaded nipples. If you find you need 5 or 6 shim washers to compress the gasket, it means you could have gone with a shorter threaded nipple.

Of course as a vendor this isn't going to come across as genuine as it really is. By the time you get it all sorted out, you will have spent more in time, materials and gas than if you just bought a working bulkhead from one of the online vendors and you get a proven solution in all stainless.

 

[NTXBrauer]

3 stainless washers inside and 3 fender washers outside. No leaks after 15 minutes. Not as tight as I'd like, but no leaks. Will probably need to hold ball valve when opening and closing as to not disturb the fittings.

You can always add another fender washer on the outside to get it snug. It actually took 5 on mine.

 

[mojo2008]

3 stainless washers inside and 3 fender washers outside. No leaks after 15 minutes. Not as tight as I'd like, but no leaks. Will probably need to hold ball valve when opening and closing as to not disturb the fittings.

Also, that ball valve is likely to get pretty hot. You'd be better off, IMHO, adding washers to the outside as mentioned above to get a snug fit.

 

[insanim8er]

Also, that ball valve is likely to get pretty hot. You'd be better off, IMHO, adding washers to the outside as mentioned above to get a snug fit.

On a mash tun?

 

[mojo2008]

On a mash tun?

Sure. Maybe not as hot on a kettle, but potentially warm enough to be uncomfortable.

 

[mojo2008]

Sure. Maybe not as hot on a kettle, but potentially warm enough to be uncomfortable.

Not sure what I was thinking. Mashed in at 154F today and that thing was nowhere near uncomfortable to the touch.