Quantcast

Mash Tun & Keggle

HomeBrewTalk.com - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Community.

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

WhoAmI

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
I decided I want to make the jump to all-grain and bought everything I need. I bought a Zydeco (Sp) kit to convert a keg and a cooler to a keggle and mash tun respectively. Of course, both leaked. I sealed both with kitchen silicone sealant rated to 400 degrees, and FDA approved. Has anyone else used anything like this? I am a bit concerned about the 400 degree rating on a keggle, but the o-rings that came with the valve specifically designed for keggles are only rated to 450...

I also created a manifold, but I'm concerned about whether I gave it enough surface area or not, and also some of my slices are a little bigger than I'd like. I attached a couple pictures of the manifold if anyone can give me some input. I am planning on doing my first AG on Sunday, probably the Haus Pale Ale since everyone seems to enjoy it and it's fairly simple.



Thanks!
 

The Pol

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
11,398
Reaction score
116
I fashioned my own bulkheads and such for my cooler conversion and have never had a leak, even when finger tight. I purchased the bulkhead for my keggle, and again, never had a leak. Most seals will leak if they are too tight actually... did you check that?
 
OP
W

WhoAmI

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
I tightened it pretty tight, but I don't think tight enough to cause the leak. On the cooler it's because the hole for the drain was slightly damaged and elongated, so I filled it with the silicone. So far, they are both water tight now. I'm just afraid of what high heat will do. Guess I'll find out... :eek:
 

WBC

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
2,164
Reaction score
10
Location
La Puente, CA
If your hole in the cooler is a bit too big that may be the leak. I would go with a bigger bulkhead and make sure the hole is round and the correct diameter. Like you said the heat might make it leak and there goes your batch of expensive beer.
 

The Pol

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
11,398
Reaction score
116
Id think the silicone will work for the cooler, Id be wary of the keggle if it is that close to the fire...
 
OP
W

WhoAmI

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
I think I have the cooler and keg setup figured out. My last question is about my manifold; I scrapped the slots and started over with individual 1/16th of an inch holes on the bottom half of the pipe (smallest drill bit I could find). Does this setup look like it will work fairly well for sparging, both fly and batch? The hole manifold will have the holes drilled when I'm done. This is all I've completed so far. Again, thanks for the input and putting up with all of my stupid beginner's questions.



 

FSR402

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
2,811
Reaction score
30
Location
Jenison, MI
WhoAmI said:
I think I have the cooler and keg setup figured out. My last question is about my manifold; I scrapped the slots and started over with individual 1/16th of an inch holes on the bottom half of the pipe (smallest drill bit I could find). Does this setup look like it will work fairly well for sparging, both fly and batch? The hole manifold will have the holes drilled when I'm done. This is all I've completed so far. Again, thanks for the input and putting up with all of my stupid beginner's questions.



Do not drill ALL the tubes...

Please read THESE PAGES and then you will understand why.
 
OP
W

WhoAmI

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Thanks, had read that but it seems all the images I have seen on here have all the pipes drilled or slotted. Is leaving the outer pipes solid still the recommended method or has actual practice shown that to be less efficient?
 
Top