Mash Parameters

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eagle23

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I've been thinking a lot about mashing, and all the different variables that come into play during the process. I am thinking about doing tests to see what different variables yield the best results. But before i go and buy a bunch of grains and spend hours mashing them, i am wondering if anyone has actually done this or has information from someone that has?

The different variables I see playing a role in mash results are:

Mash Temp
I imagine this would be more of a test on attenuation than the actual efficiency of the mash but I think it is just as important to look at. Though, my thinking here is that the higher the water temperature the more efficient the sparge will be. What i am looking to do is do a number of 1 gallon batches with the same grain, mashed at different temps, then record the gravity of the run off. Then I'll ferment it and see what the FG is.

Mash Time
This one is simple enough, using the same amount of the same grains, just mash them at the same mash temps for different times and see what the final gravity is. My only question is that if especially during the shorter mash times, will any unconverted starches get washed off during the sparge, and if so, will they affect the measurement of the hydrometer?

Flow Rate
This one is simple enough, just find a way to control the amount of runoff, and see if it affects the post-sparge gravity at all.

Grain Crush
For this one, track down an adjustable grain mill, and run the grains through at different crushes, mash them and record the results. Perhaps even find a way to look at using rice hulls, though that would be a different test.

Mash PH
This is the one I am least sure about. I know that mash PH affects efficiency, But i am not totally sure how to go about testing it. Perhaps use acids and bicarbonate to adjust the water ahead of time so the ph falls to the correct place at mash in, then record the post sparge gravity.

Mash Thickness
This is another one where i think if matters more in terms of attenuation rather than efficiency, but i am thinking about just mashing at different thicknesses, then sparging and recording the results.

I know there is a lot more that goes into it, but i think i covered all the major points, I've never seen any actual info on any of this, just general observations, so i am wondering if anyone has tested these things before, also i am hoping you guys and point out any misgivings that i have and correct anything i may have wrong.

happy brewing
 
Experimentation is the most excellent way to start learning about the best way to brew on your system! You think like I do and I encourage you to run your own experiments to confirm or refute the common homebrewing wisdom that is out there. What you'll find is that MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, the common wisdom is just plain WRONG.

I can share with you some of the results & knowledge that I have gained over the years, as I too started out running a whole slew of experiments with mash temps, times, all that:

Mash Temp
Doesn't really matter that much! For that reason, I just try to mash everything I brew from 148-152 F and call it good. It works! There's no use in worrying about a few degrees, either. If I start my mash at 154 F and it falls to 146 F by the end of the mash, I don't care because the average was in the range that I wanted. It's all good! Your mileage may vary and that's cool, but I swear this really works well for me.

Mash Time
I found that mash time does NOT hurt your efficiency at all, but does impact the attenuation significantly in the first 30 minutes of the mash. I ran a series of experiments proving that a mash of just 20 minutes then mashed out would not attenuate very well, but the efficiency was not impacted barely at all, not that I could perceive anyway. At 30 minutes, full attenuation was achieved approximately 50% of the time, but sometimes led to high final gravity and fullness of body. But at 40 minutes, I always get full attenuation, always. So, for the past 10+ years, I have been mashing nearly every batch I've made for just 40 minutes, or maybe 45, somewhere in there. And won lots of awards in competitions with this method too. It tastes like good normal beer, with the same high efficiency and high attenuation that you would expect out of the typical 60-90 minute mash. In my view, 90 minute mashes are a complete waste of time (for those of us who value time!) except MAYBE for saisons or really dry beers, and even then I am skeptical as I still haven't tried a short mash for a saison.

Flow Rate
No effect. After vorlauf, run it off at full throttle. Don't waste your time.

Grain Crush
This has a HUGE impact on efficiency and final beer quality. I myself need to play around with this some more before I get it right.

Mash pH
This is one variable that I have not played around with. Guess I don't really care to since my mash pH has always been in that magical range of about 5.1 to 5.5, so I figure it's good enough. But it might possibly affect haze or some variable that I'm not thinking about, so this is a great area for experimentation!

Mash Thickness
Doesn't seem to matter much, if at all. However, I'll admit, another good area to experiment just to find out for sure. I should probably look through all my old data to see what effects this might have had -- I have the data, just never looked at it.

Don't take my word for it. By all means, run your own experiments and prove (or disprove) these things to yourself!!
 
All these parameters, and many more, have already been well documented in depth. Look around on this forum or any of the brew literature.

The problem with conducting such experiments is to only change ONE parameter at the time, leaving all others unchanged, then aggregate a series of tests and measurements to correlate the various parameters and their interactions.

I'd say save yourself all the time and headaches it demands and learn from the existing knowledge by applying those to your brewing methods. For example, if you think the body of a beer is too thin, next time change the parameter(s) that influence that the most, and brew another batch. At least you'll have another (hopefully) improved beer in the end.
 
For clarity, let me add, don't shy away from being critical of your brewing methods and the resulting beer. If you think you can improve your beer by doing something different, even if it isn't documented somewhere or contrary to popular belief, by all means do it and find out. Reporting those findings back here or on your blog may help others in the future or start a discussion. Brewing can be a wonderful journey in learning that so many ignore.
 
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