I am kind of in the middle of the bridge here, would love some insights and opinions on what to go for regarding the mash vessel.
I have a 27L electric boiler.
I am using it to do the mash, i can keep the temperatures oscillating between 150F to 158F during the mash. The boiler looses heat, has to turn on and i need to swirl with the spoon so i dont burn the grain and keep temp fairly even.
When mash time is over i move the wort and liquid to a bucket with a SS filter to do the vorlauf and sparge. Then transfer back the wort into the boiler to start my boil.
Problem : I find it hard to keep a constant temperature, unless i keep stirring and always with my eye on the thermometer during the mash. I also need to transfer the wort to a separate bucket with filter, and loose a lot of heat in the process, and risk oxidation. Raising temperatures for 3 stage mash temps is easy though...
I am thinking of investing on some gear to help me out.
1. Install a mash tun stainless steel braid on the boiler, so i can use it for vorlauf and sparge. This is very cheap, just install the mesh braid filter and in the end of mash, just turn the boiler off and do the vorlauf. Of course in the end of sparging i would have the clear wort in a bucket, had to clean the boiler (remove the grain bed) and transfer the wort back to the boiler.
2. Buy a mash tun cooler and do the mashing in the cooler, and the vorlauf and sparge. In the end i could transfer the clean wort directly to the electric boiler. Seems simpler....but....
For those who use this mash tun (cooler) how do you cope with different mash temperature rests? If a certain recipe asks for :
-mash 60min at 142F
-mash 30min at 152F
- mashout at 170F
Do you keep adding boiling water to the mash tun, to achieve the temperatures? I ask this because i brew 2.5 gallon batches. So i have less water to sparge, do not know if enough to raise grain bed temperatures...
Or do you do a decoction mash ? Which do you all use? I do not wish to over-complicate...i wish to "simplify" my process , not the opposite.
Would appreciate some inputs
Thanks
I have a 27L electric boiler.
I am using it to do the mash, i can keep the temperatures oscillating between 150F to 158F during the mash. The boiler looses heat, has to turn on and i need to swirl with the spoon so i dont burn the grain and keep temp fairly even.
When mash time is over i move the wort and liquid to a bucket with a SS filter to do the vorlauf and sparge. Then transfer back the wort into the boiler to start my boil.
Problem : I find it hard to keep a constant temperature, unless i keep stirring and always with my eye on the thermometer during the mash. I also need to transfer the wort to a separate bucket with filter, and loose a lot of heat in the process, and risk oxidation. Raising temperatures for 3 stage mash temps is easy though...
I am thinking of investing on some gear to help me out.
1. Install a mash tun stainless steel braid on the boiler, so i can use it for vorlauf and sparge. This is very cheap, just install the mesh braid filter and in the end of mash, just turn the boiler off and do the vorlauf. Of course in the end of sparging i would have the clear wort in a bucket, had to clean the boiler (remove the grain bed) and transfer the wort back to the boiler.
2. Buy a mash tun cooler and do the mashing in the cooler, and the vorlauf and sparge. In the end i could transfer the clean wort directly to the electric boiler. Seems simpler....but....
For those who use this mash tun (cooler) how do you cope with different mash temperature rests? If a certain recipe asks for :
-mash 60min at 142F
-mash 30min at 152F
- mashout at 170F
Do you keep adding boiling water to the mash tun, to achieve the temperatures? I ask this because i brew 2.5 gallon batches. So i have less water to sparge, do not know if enough to raise grain bed temperatures...
Or do you do a decoction mash ? Which do you all use? I do not wish to over-complicate...i wish to "simplify" my process , not the opposite.
Would appreciate some inputs
Thanks