March pump in Kynar, good for wort?

[Karlberg]

Hello all,

I just got me a "NEW March pump kynar AC-1A-MD 1/2"OD" on Ebay, any opinions on how well this pump will work in a 1-tier setup?

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Kynar pump heads are great for mash temps. There have been some debates as to their use for transferring boiling temps liquids. I believe the Kynar is rated to 180 dF (I would double check that number though). If you do a search for Kynar, I am sure you will find some good discussions.

 

[Karlberg]

That was a fast answer!

Thank you, I do not need to transfer boiling wort since I use an immersion chiller and stir manually right now, I have a plan for a stirrer later.
So it seems like this pump will fit my needs quite good!
And it was only 10,50$, the shipping cost was more than twice that!

 

[Anthony_Lopez]

ummm... Can you support 230 VAC?

 

[wildwest450]

ummm... Can you support 230 VAC?

+1, all those pumps on Ebay were 230v, ouch.

 

[raceskier]

I think, just the $68 one was 230V, the rest are listed (and shown on the label pics) as 115V.

 

[AN_TKE]

220V is easy if you have 2 breakers in your electrical panel that are spare or 2slots that are open. All you have to do is get a 220V breaker (which has 2 terminals and takes up the space of 2 110 breakers) and bring 3+1 wire to your plug-in spot. I did it for my HWT heating element and it was a snap.

If you have questions, shoot me an email or PM.

Good luck.

 

[beerthirty]

220V is easy if you have 2 breakers in your electrical panel that are spare or 2slots that are open. All you have to do is get a 220V breaker (which has 2 terminals and takes up the space of 2 110 breakers) and bring 3+1 wire to your plug-in spot. I did it for my HWT heating element and it was a snap.

If you have questions, shoot me an email or PM.

Good luck.

you might want to check with an electrician, although the breaker does provide a safety, I don't think that approach meets code in any state. think and be safe that way you can brew tomorrow.

 

[HenryHill]

Originally Posted by AN_TKE
220V is easy if you have 2 breakers in your electrical panel that are spare or 2slots that are open. All you have to do is get a 220V breaker (which has 2 terminals and takes up the space of 2 110 breakers) and bring 3+1 wire to your plug-in spot. I did it for my HWT heating element and it was a snap.

you might want to check with an electrician, although the breaker does provide a safety, I don't think that approach meets code in any state. think and be safe that way you can brew tomorrow.

My 240v lines are run exactly that way. How else would you do it?

I would be using a GFI type breaker in this situation, but ....

 

[Amiaji]

Originally Posted by AN_TKE
220V is easy if you have 2 breakers in your electrical panel that are spare or 2slots that are open. All you have to do is get a 220V breaker (which has 2 terminals and takes up the space of 2 110 breakers) and bring 3+1 wire to your plug-in spot. I did it for my HWT heating element and it was a snap.




My 240v lines are run exactly that way. How else would you do it?

I was wondering that myself, and I am an electrician.....

The only concern I can see is you dont use 2 seperate breakers to get 220V. Be sure to use a double pole breaker where both halves are tied together. And GFI is always a good idea.

 

[Karlberg]

The pump is rated for 230V 50/60Hz and that will fit quite nicely, since that is what I have here in Sweden (standard is 230V 50Hz).
But thanks for your concern!

 

[jfrizzell]

you might want to check with an electrician, although the breaker does provide a safety, I don't think that approach meets code in any state. think and be safe that way you can brew tomorrow.

You lost me somewhere. That's how 220V is done...how would you go about doing it?

 

[AN_TKE]

To clarify my earlier post: (I can see now how it may have sounded a little dangerous)

If you have two unused breakers, cut your power at the main breaker (hopefully you have one at the meter panel), yank out the two seperate breakers and install a 2-pole breaker in their place. Then you can run 3+1 (red, black, white, bare ground) to a new 240V recepticle. The red and black go into the double throw, the white to the common bus (the strip in your lighting panel with all the other whiteys on it) and the ground to the ground bus. On the other end, wire your 220V as described on the instructions in the packaging of the outlet. Start your wiring at the outlet and work your way back to the panel - connect ground first, then white, then the red & black.

If you have any doubts or haven't wired anything before, call some electricin out of the phone book. You can possibly get someone to come out for $50/hour.

Good luck.

 

[BrewBeemer]

To clarify my earlier post: (I can see now how it may have sounded a little dangerous)

If you have two unused breakers, cut your power at the main breaker (hopefully you have one at the meter panel), yank out the two seperate breakers and install a 2-pole breaker in their place. Then you can run 3+1 (red, black, white, bare ground) to a new 240V recepticle. The red and black go into the double throw, the white to the common bus (the strip in your lighting panel with all the other whiteys on it) and the ground to the ground bus. On the other end, wire your 220V as described on the instructions in the packaging of the outlet. Start your wiring at the outlet and work your way back to the panel - connect ground first, then white, then the red & black.

If you have any doubts or haven't wired anything before, call some electricin out of the phone book. You can possibly get someone to come out for $50/hour.

Good luck.

Your not going to have any electricical contractor here in California (S.F. bay area) be it non-union or union that is to even stop at the your curb for $50/hr. Mininum time charged not alone parts and labor. Better off thru this forum for answers.