Manifold suggestions please

[dooman333]

Going to brew my first AG batch next week and could use some advice. I guess I'm going to go with the infamous orange cooler mash tun (unless advised otherwise) and I was wonder what kind of manifold to go with. I see a lot of you with the stainless mesh hose and others with a copper/PVC rig with the slot bottoms. My newbie brain tells me that the main idea of mashing is that act of filtering but I'm sure there is much more to it. If you use the mesh hose setup, don't you need some space between grain bed and liquid? I'm not looking to spend much money but could use a few tips before purchasing any parts. If it wasn't for the awesome tips I always get from HBT I would probably just build a circular PVC manifold with the slot bottom. So I guess if you sort though this far too long (and mildly drunken I might add) post, I'm just asking what's the best bang-for-your-buck cooler manifold?

 

[JuanMoore]

If you plan on batch sparging, do whatever looks to be cheapest and easiest for you, which for most people is the SS braid. And no, it doesn't need anything bewteen it and the grainbed. If you will (or even might) fly sparge, go with a well designed manifold or a false bottom with a pick-up tube.

 

[HomebrewMTB]

I'm just in the process of building my MLT but from what I've seen experimenting with water, there is still quite a bit of liquid left in the tank with just a SS braid. I don't know if this isn't that bad in practice with all of the grain in there as well and really only the last little bit after sparge. I was also worried about it crushing the braid with the weight of the grain and stirring. Right now I'm thinking about building a manifold with CPVC or Pex in a hex or octagon shape. I'd be curious what others with more experience say on the subject.

And just an FYI on the terminology, mashing is the process of starch extraction and conversion to sugar. Lautering is the process of separating the sweet wort from the grains. Lautering is more applicable to the discussions of manifolds.

 

[LandoLincoln]

I'm just in the process of building my MLT but from what I've seen experimenting with water, there is still quite a bit of liquid left in the tank with just a SS braid. I don't know if this isn't that bad in practice with all of the grain in there as well and really only the last little bit after sparge. I was also worried about it crushing the braid with the weight of the grain and stirring. Right now I'm thinking about building a manifold with CPVC or Pex in a hex or octagon shape. I'd be curious what others with more experience say on the subject.

And just an FYI on the terminology, mashing is the process of starch extraction and conversion to sugar. Lautering is the process of separating the sweet wort from the grains. Lautering is more applicable to the discussions of manifolds.

I've built a SS braid and I took some 12 or 14 gauge copper wire (I forget which right now), stripped the insulation off of it, wrapped it around a pencil, stretched it out a bit, and then used that to reinforce the SS braid so it would not collapse. Seems to work fine so far.

 

[JuanMoore]

I'm just in the process of building my MLT but from what I've seen experimenting with water, there is still quite a bit of liquid left in the tank with just a SS braid. I don't know if this isn't that bad in practice with all of the grain in there as well and really only the last little bit after sparge. I was also worried about it crushing the braid with the weight of the grain and stirring. Right now I'm thinking about building a manifold with CPVC or Pex in a hex or octagon shape. I'd be curious what others with more experience say on the subject.

And just an FYI on the terminology, mashing is the process of starch extraction and conversion to sugar. Lautering is the process of separating the sweet wort from the grains. Lautering is more applicable to the discussions of manifolds.

Minimizing dead space is always a good thing, and the easiest way to do so with the round cooler mash tuns is just to tilt it at the end of the last sparge. Unless you're using a pump and get a stuck sparge, there will be absolutely zero weight on the SS braid to collapse it. It's in and not under the water, so no weight there, and the grains are borderline bouyant, so they don't add any weight to the braid either. Reinforcing it to prevent it getting smashed by your mash paddle/spoon/etc during the dough in is a good idea though.

A manifold or false bottom is a little more worry free if you get a pump, and allows the option of fly sparging, but the braid also works very well.

 

[PurpleJeepXJ]

Don't do the SS braid. Most of the "SS" that the box stores sell is not stainless. Take the time and build a manifold. If you build it right you can have no dead loss in your cooler besides grain absorption. With a SS braid your dead loss will always be the thickness of your braid no matter what.

 

[wolverinebrewer]

There is no right or wrong answer here but, I prefer the cpvc. You can get a 5' stick for less than $5 and half a dozen connectors are only a couple of bucks. It's cheap and it does the job. It won't crush, it cuts easy, and you have it if you ever fly sparge. Plus, you can fit it all together and always take it apart to hose it out. Mine for a 62 qt. was less than $8.

 

[Lou1998]

I was using a SS hose braid and kept getting stuck sparges. I ended up building a copper manifold and it works much better. I used a drill press to make 3/32" holes in the copper tubing and just dry fit everything together. I batch sparge, but could fly sparge with this system if I ever have the inclination. I think it only cost me around $12 total for the elbows, T-s and 5 feet of pipe.

 

[jetmac]

Either one will work. Both SS braided line (which can be bought at home improvement staores and is real SS) and manifolds are being used in MLT around the world. Just your prefrence.

 

[dooman333]

Much appreciated guys. Just bought a 10gal round cooler, sme PEX tubing, CPVC fittings and the valve assembly. I'm going with the "circle and a tube down the middle" setup (2 half moons). For the holes... drill holes, saw slots...? What seems best?

 

[Yankeehillbrewer]

I sawed slots every 1/2" on my copper manifold. Has done good by me so far

 

[TheBrewAbides]

One other thing about dead space...

I batch sparge and use a coleman cooler which has a spigot sunk in below the bottom of the cooler. It eliminates a lot of dead space and a SS braid hooks up to it perfectly.