Superkabuto
Well-Known Member
Does the manifold in the mash tun really have to be copper? Can I make it out of rubber tubing? Or something else?
Manifold material?
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Brew-boy
Well-Known Member
I used CPVC.
oceanselv
Well-Known Member
+1 on the CPVC. Ordinary PVC won't take the temperatures of mashing. No matter what you use I would recommend not soldering the copper or gluing the CPVC. Being able to take everything apart makes cleaning much easier.
Superkabuto
Well-Known Member
This is good to know. I've never been much of an engineer, and am mostly retarded when it comes to building things. Soldering copper would put a mash tun out of my league.
And why does everyone seem to build them from scratch? If I could buy a mash tun with the manifold already installed, I would and save myself the hassle of having to build one of dubious quality.
bullinachinashop
Well-Known Member
I made a 4 tube cpvc manifold for the bottom of my 48 qt. cooler/tun. I cut slits with a hacksaw 1/2 way through altenating side to side every 1/2 inch.
This took a little time to cut, but I've never used additional rice hulls and I've never had a stuck runoff.
With this system, the manifold lays flat on the bettom of the cooler and wont move easily.
Quick to disassemble and easy to clean.
Also, 80+ percent efficiency.
Bull
This took a little time to cut, but I've never used additional rice hulls and I've never had a stuck runoff.
With this system, the manifold lays flat on the bettom of the cooler and wont move easily.
Quick to disassemble and easy to clean.
Also, 80+ percent efficiency.
Bull
oceanselv
Well-Known Member
Can't speak for others but I built mine because I use a rectangular cooler and other than the stainless braid I have not found one commercially available. I also built mine because it was easy to do. The only tool I used was an ordinary hand saw. I cut my slits about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way down the tubing every 3/4 of an inch. My total time was about an hour.
Because all the parts you need are readily available at any hardware store (might have to search for SS fender washers) and it's much cheaper than buying one pre-assembled. It's easier than you think. The only thing you have to modify is the braid or manifold, depending on which route you go. Everything else you just bolts right on from the store.
esp
Active Member
I built mine over the last few days out of copper for my 5 gal round igloo cooler. I didn't buy one because they aren't available. For the copper one I added a cross (well two tees going in either direction) to get as even a flow as possible. 1/2 copper a hole every 3/4 of an inch.
Why copper? I was a plumber before I decided to go to school and had most of the tools I needed. Mine is half soldered half just crammed together so that I can clean it and put it back together easily.
As mentioned above, pvc is no good for high temps. CPVC will last a while, but can also become brittle over time (it's a few decades). Copper lasts forever.
I wonder why no one has tried the Pex system.
Why copper? I was a plumber before I decided to go to school and had most of the tools I needed. Mine is half soldered half just crammed together so that I can clean it and put it back together easily.
As mentioned above, pvc is no good for high temps. CPVC will last a while, but can also become brittle over time (it's a few decades). Copper lasts forever.
I wonder why no one has tried the Pex system.
Superkabuto
Well-Known Member
What is the Pex system?
esp
Active Member
Pex is a new kind of plastic water piping system built for new homes. It relies on clamps (which need a special tool) and Pex piping. IIRC the tubing comes in spools and is either 1/2" or 3/4". I was involved in commercial/light industrial plumbing so I've only used it a couple of times helping people out. If it stands up to heat, it would seem to me to be a much simpler solution than either copper or cpvc
Araxi
Well-Known Member
My manifold is made from pex only because I had some left over from my bathroom reno. It has held up well so far for about 12 brews with it.
If soldering the joints for copper was stopping you don't let it. A torch and solder are very inexpensive and sweating joints together is very easy. Plus after your done you a have a new toy to play with. Everybody needs a torch.
Plus, you can use it for creme brulee!
esp
Active Member
Soldering is very easy at the sizes we solder for manifolds (3/8 to 3/4). When you get up to 1.5"+ you need to move to something a bit more powerful than your box store soldering kits.
This is the way I do it:
1. using a sandpaper/emery cloth and wire brush clean all the fittings and pipe ends that will be joined. DO NOT TOUCH CLEANED SURFACES!!! solder doesn't adhere well after oil is on them.
2. Flux all the cleaned ends (1/2 inch from the ends for 1/2 inch fittings..accuracy isn't important, but solder will run where rivers of flux go).
3. unroll a length of solder (I do about 3 to 6 inches) and bend the first two of it in a 90* angle.
4. light the torch and hold it in your non-primary hand. work the flame over the fitting where the solder should go (the cup of the fitting, not the elbow of it).
5. When the flux starts to heat up and drip it is almost time to touch solder to the pipe...experiment to get it just right
6. When the solder melts easily (you'll almost be surprised at how easily it melts) run it around the entire cup of the fitting until it drips out the bottom (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE SOLDER DRIP ONTO YOU IT WILL BURN!!!)
7. I usually wipe off the dripping solder while it's hot (by flicking the hot solder with the cold solder on the roll. Doing this allows it to sit flat on the bottom of the MLT)
8. Let it cool. After this I usually go over it again with sandpaper or a wire brush to get off all dirt, etc from the outside. Copper with flux with tarnish overnight and I don't like the look of green gunk all over my copper.
9. I use a Dremmel tool with a cutting blade to cut holes in the underside of the manifold.
I'm sure YouTube has videos, too. Don't be afraid of soldering. It's REALLY simple to do. Especially with the manifold, because it doesn't have to be water tight.
This is the way I do it:
1. using a sandpaper/emery cloth and wire brush clean all the fittings and pipe ends that will be joined. DO NOT TOUCH CLEANED SURFACES!!! solder doesn't adhere well after oil is on them.
2. Flux all the cleaned ends (1/2 inch from the ends for 1/2 inch fittings..accuracy isn't important, but solder will run where rivers of flux go).
3. unroll a length of solder (I do about 3 to 6 inches) and bend the first two of it in a 90* angle.
4. light the torch and hold it in your non-primary hand. work the flame over the fitting where the solder should go (the cup of the fitting, not the elbow of it).
5. When the flux starts to heat up and drip it is almost time to touch solder to the pipe...experiment to get it just right
6. When the solder melts easily (you'll almost be surprised at how easily it melts) run it around the entire cup of the fitting until it drips out the bottom (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE SOLDER DRIP ONTO YOU IT WILL BURN!!!)
7. I usually wipe off the dripping solder while it's hot (by flicking the hot solder with the cold solder on the roll. Doing this allows it to sit flat on the bottom of the MLT)
8. Let it cool. After this I usually go over it again with sandpaper or a wire brush to get off all dirt, etc from the outside. Copper with flux with tarnish overnight and I don't like the look of green gunk all over my copper.
9. I use a Dremmel tool with a cutting blade to cut holes in the underside of the manifold.
I'm sure YouTube has videos, too. Don't be afraid of soldering. It's REALLY simple to do. Especially with the manifold, because it doesn't have to be water tight.
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