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Making 2 gallon kegs?

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Cpt_Kirks

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OK, assuming you have a shop with a plasma cutter and a TIG, along with somebody who knows what they are doing, how much effort would it be to cut down 5 gallon cornies into 3 gallon?

Since 3 gallon kegs run in the $80+ range, but 5 gallon run in the $25 range, would it be worth the effort?

I grew up with a guy who owns the welding shop, and my brother-in-law is his number one man, and a master welder.

What would 5 gallon kegs converted to 3 gallon sell for readily? Would it be worth the effort?
 
So you're thinking about taking a standard cornie, cutting out a midsection, and welding it back up? I like that idea!

Not sure what people would be willing to pay for it. I think the perception is if it is smaller, it should be cheaper.
 
May I suggest another option? IF I ever finish the current projects I plan on giving it a go. H2O fire extinguishers! SS, 2-2.5 gallon, screw off tops, can be pressurized by standard tire inflator fitting, copper diptube, readily available used on ebay from about $20.
It really shouldn't take much to make them beer ready, and off course there is the appeal of being able to pull a draft off something labeled for fire control.;)
 
May I suggest another option? IF I ever finish the current projects I plan on giving it a go. H2O fire extinguishers! SS, 2-2.5 gallon, screw off tops, can be pressurized by standard tire inflator fitting, copper diptube, readily available used on ebay from about $20.
It really shouldn't take much to make them beer ready, and off course there is the appeal of being able to pull a draft off something labeled for fire control.;)

That's awesome!

It was tough as hell, and I deemed it not worth the time at all. That material is SUPER thin!

A shop should have no problem tig welding it back together. Most of the welding supply stores have tig'ed pop cans on display showing off what the welders can do. I think (and you can verify) the hardest part would be cutting the chunk out of the middle perfectly so the two halfs can meet in the middle.
 
depending on the airline they may charge $15-20 for the extra carry-on which is about what it would cost to get one shipped anyway. If you have to check it see if you can check it at the gate so it doesn't have to go through the regular baggage system. (I believe they give it back to you right when you land instead of picking it up at the carousel)

edit: wrong thread :eek:
 
...I think (and you can verify) the hardest part would be cutting the chunk out of the middle perfectly so the two halfs can meet in the middle.

Why do you care if it meets exactly in the middle? How about this, cut one keg once in the middle and cut another keg once near the top. Swap the top portions. End up with one 2.5 gallon keg and one 7.5 gallon keg.
 
I did, at one point, talk to a master welder (also a homebrewer) about modifying kegs. His position was cutting them with a plasma torch was the easy part. He felt stir-welding was the only practical approach for assembly, the walls were just too thin.

Not saying I wouldn't be interested if you go into production.
 

May I suggest another option? IF I ever finish the current projects I plan on giving it a go. H2O fire extinguishers! SS, 2-2.5 gallon, screw off tops, can be pressurized by standard tire inflator fitting, copper diptube, readily available used on ebay from about $20. It really shouldn't take much to make them beer ready, and off course there is the appeal of being able to pull a draft off something labeled for fire control.

That's a great idea. Come to think of it, my buddy owns a fire extinguisher business nearby, I think I may pay him a visit. :)

Would love to see a DIY project on this.
 
Though I know very little about TIG, I think that it could be done, and not very easy. Cutting a keg with a band saw might just tear up the keg. That kind of saw probably wouldn't work well on thin sheet metal.

Setting up a plasma cutter on a jig would not be hard. Then simply rotate the keg around until it's cut through.

TIG welding thin SS is an art.

I'll be looking into the fire extinguisher thing though. I'd LOVE to have 4 smaller kegs, rather than 2 large ones.
 
Ok, checked out some auctions and I firmly believe we may have a new small keg system on our hands! I am very nearly willing to grab one and convert it to beer. Should not be too hard and I think I could fit a few in my kegerator.
 
I imagine swapping out the valve on the fire extinguisher for a screw-in device which holds the ball-lock fitting. Likely a custom job, but seems possible. I'd also want to swap the connector for the gas for a locking system of some sort. Not sure how that would go.

Got a quote on a tank for $30, but the place is nearly 2 hours away. Seems nothing local, but I have a volunteer firefighter going to ask around. Online order seems the most likely route to get one to look at I guess.
 
There are stainless h20 extinguishers at my local Koetter fire supply (dallas, tx), I think they are cheap. They have some which were labeled condemned for extinguisher use, I dunno how much pressure they are rated for as extinguishers.
 
May I suggest another option? IF I ever finish the current projects I plan on giving it a go. H2O fire extinguishers! SS, 2-2.5 gallon, screw off tops, can be pressurized by standard tire inflator fitting, copper diptube, readily available used on ebay from about $20.
It really shouldn't take much to make them beer ready, and off course there is the appeal of being able to pull a draft off something labeled for fire control.;)

Wouldn't that be a problem? I believe copper shouldn't be in contact with beer during/post fermentation since it will catalyze oxidation reactions.
 
I've got a pair of 3 gallon kegs and a pair of 2.5 gallon kegs. They are usually filled with Apfelwein. This setup works like a charm as the kegs blows in a few hours at any party. It never gets a chance to get warm.

3GallonKegLove2.jpg
 
The way I had been thinking the extinguisher was as a party keg. The hose could be unscrewed and a smaller diameter shorter hose attached to a fitting that would screw into it. The copper diptube could be removed(broken off and drilled out if needed) and replaced with a stainless one. Online Metals has great pricing on small SS tubing. The epoxy stir rod fix would be inserted into the diptube to slow flow and reduce foaming. A screw-on tire inflator tip could be adapted for the gas. Now its time to pull the lever and put out the fire. Maybe I should have kept this idea under wraps until I had made one.:D

Edit: I was thinking that a cartridge filler as Edwort has pictured might be the same thread that screws into the ball lock. If it is then the gas is the easiest part.
 
I just bought one of the 70qt cube coolers. It is supposed to hold 2 three gallon kegs. Now, I need a couple more kegs to go with the one I have.

I'm going to make a dual tap PVC tower for it.
 
Wouldn't that be a problem? I believe copper shouldn't be in contact with beer during/post fermentation since it will catalyze oxidation reactions.

I believe you are correct, but I would swap that for SS. WE have some SS at work I think, and I know I have a piece of small stuff that I was going to use as a racking cane, but decided it was too narrow.

The fire extinguishers are supposed to be charged with 100 lbs. of pressure, so they would be plenty strong enough for carbing and serving.
 
Maybe I should have kept this idea under wraps until I had made one.:D


The race is ON!!!



But my mind keeps thinking that if this was such a good idea, how come it's not more popular? Maybe because cornys are so cheap and easy, and most people want bigger kegs, not smaller. But it would be great for me!
 
I took one apart last night the top is held on with a nut very similar to flange nut used in plumbing wast lines . The "Dip" tube is plastic the air valve is part of the handle very much like a sanke tap . The only way I think this would work would be to have the post's welded to the tank and use a new flange nut and a stainless steel blank to seal the top.
 
Guys, Make sure you give them a very thorough scrubbing, occasionally antifreeze gets put in extinguishers to keep them from freezing.

Antifreeze is not good eats!
 
I took one apart last night the top is held on with a nut very similar to flange nut used in plumbing wast lines . The "Dip" tube is plastic the air valve is part of the handle very much like a sanke tap . The only way I think this would work would be to have the post's welded to the tank and use a new flange nut and a stainless steel blank to seal the top.

Then it wouldn't look like a fire extinguisher.
Plastic diptube would make it even easier to remove and replace with SS. Yes the gas valve is part of the "keg head".
fire_ex_valve.JPG


I'm betting one of these would screw right on to it.
CO2kegcharger.jpg

If not, the valve as seen in the first pic, is removable and could be adapted to the thread needed without much trouble. My keg charger has a valve and a seal made into the threaded ferrule so even screwing a pipe into it and cutting the threads to match the charger would only be a few minutes.
No picnic tap required, just use the liquid valve already in the head, and fill the diptube with epoxy mix sticks to slow down the flow. I'm willing to build you one if you send me 2 extinguishers. ;)
 
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