Maintaining Temperature for Partial Mash

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jscherff

Active Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2013
Messages
39
Reaction score
7
Yesterday I brewed – or attempted to brew – my first partial mash. It was a disaster. In fact, it was a comedy of errors fit for a sitcom.

My equipment is a 10 gallon stainless steel Bayou Classic brew kettle, a 10 gallon igloo MT/LT, and a 10 gallon igloo HLT. The recipe calls for a partial mash using 2 1/2 pounds of grain. I mashed in with about 3 quarts of 164° water, stirred well, and ended up at 152°. Perfect. I put the lid back on the cooler and waited.

About 10 minutes later, I checked the mash temperature. It was down to 140°. At that point I put my HLT up on the [unlit] stove and added enough 170° sparge water to get back up to 152°, but 10 minutes later, the mash was back down near 140°.

The above describes my basic problem: maintaining mash temperature until conversion, which I never achieved (tested with tincture of iodine at various points). I believe the root cause of the temperature drop was too much cooler for too small a grain bill, but I would like to hear the opinions of some more experienced home brewers.

The rest of this post is the comedy of errors part, which you can read if you want to have a chuckle at my expense.

Panicking, I decided to heat some water to boiling in my boil kettle so I could raise the temperature of my mash without diluting it too much (i.e., with sparge water). While I did this, I failed to notice that my Igloo HLT was sitting on the unused burner next to my boil kettle. Failed to notice, that is, until I saw a puddle of molten orange plastic forming beneath the stove.

When the water reached boiling, I opened the valve to let some hot water run through the vinyl tubing and into my MT. A hot steam of 200° water on my arm informed me that I had neglected to use hose clamps – and that vinyl tubing loses it's grip at higher temperatures.

Still the temperature did not stabilize.

Next I decided to pour the mash into a second stainless pot and apply heat directly. As I did this, I splashed a good deal of liquid on the stainless brew kettle, so I set the kettle on the ground to spray off the sticky brown mess with the garden hose. With cold water. On a cold night. On a hot (recently boiling) brew kettle. One minute later the lid of the brew kettle collapsed inward like it was made of tin foil from the pressure differential caused by the rapid cooling.

The tale goes on, but the rest is significantly less funny. I worked on that damned mash for three hours and never achieved conversion. I only quit trying because I grew too drunk to continue safely.

It was only after all this time, effort, and pain that I realized starting over from scratch would cost less than $5 in raw materials, which I picked up from my LHBS today.

–John
 
First thing that comes to mind is to ask if you pre heated your mash tun. Before doughing in you want to dump some 170-180 degree water in, about 2-3 gallons for about 5 minutes. This brings up the temperature of the cooler and all the components inside up and helps prevent heat loss. The second thing that comes to mind is that your thermal mass is really low in a comparatively very large vessel. Were you planning on sparging? if so, on this scale, skip that step. Use more grain to make up for loss of efficiency and make a thinner mash, use 3 - 3 1/2# in 2-3 gallons liquor, take your first runnings discard the rest.

So that's to help with your temperature issues, there's another topic that should be touched on though. 140 degrees will give you a fast conversion resulting in a thin highly fermentable wort. May I ask what your grain bill was?
 
+1^

Partial mashes that small are best done in a large pot (~2 gallons) in a preheated turned-off oven. Saves a lot of time cleaning, temp is spot on, high efficiency, and easy to manage. Strain and sparge through a colander lined with a grain bag.

Why would you do partial mashes when you have a large enough boil kettle and mash tun? Just convert the recipe to all-grain or find the original all-grain recipe. Converting back and forth more than once may change the recipe enough to create a different beer. It also tends to introduce errors and strange looking, complicated grain/hop bills.
 
The answer is pretty simple. You used too large a vessel for that amount of grain, you could have done that in a crockpot ...........lol........
 
I think if you're going to be doing smaller mashes it may be a good idea to go after the BIAB method. That way you can put your mash right on the stove and maintain that temperature which you cannot do with an Igloo MLT.

Doing full mashes shouldn't be a problem because there is enough volume to keep things warm. I use brewersfriend.com for all my brews and it has nifty calculators and equipment tuning to consistently hit that temp and keep it.
 
Why would you do partial mashes when you have a large enough boil kettle and mash tun? Just convert the recipe to all-grain or find the or an original all-grain recipe. Converting back and forth more than once may change the recipe enough to create a different beer. It also tends to introduce errors and strange looking, complicated grain/hop bills.

That's what I was wondering. You've got that nice system, use it!
:mug:
 
Damn dude. That really is a bad brew day, cheers to you kept trying! I wouldn't have had the patience like you did. But look at the bright side: you leaned a good number of lessons from one brew day.
 
First, thank you, jPrather, for the bump that got my post noticed.

This is a partial-mash recipe; it was a kit from Mother Earth Brew Co in Vista, CA. Here are the ingredients:

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1390411030.955650.jpg
 
I have learned many things since I wrote the post. I did not pre-heat my MT, and as I suspected, I had way too much cooler for way to little grain.

After hitting the books (thank you, John Palmer and Charlie Papazian), I believe I was also short on diastatic power. (The kit is a partial-mash conversion of the brewery's all-grain recipe, and I think they should have included some base malt to convert the starches in the flaked corn and oats.)

A week after my post, I converted the recipe to all-grain and had a very successful and fun all-grain brew day. It's currently in secondary and I'll be bottling in a few days.
 
Almost forgot... The kit had a muslin bag for the grains, and the instructions said to hold the bag up and pour sparge water through it to rinse the grains.

Lastly, I have since made a cool mini-MT/LT for partial-mashes using a 2-gallon cooler from Lowe's. I did a one gallon micro-batch to test it out – worked great!
 
Oh, those instructions... typically so outdated.

Next time don't even bother with a secondary. Unless you use fruit or other late adjuncts or need to bulk age for a few months, there is no benefit. To clear the beer, cold crash the primary for a day or 2, 2 weeks after fermentation is totally completed. That gives the yeast some time to clean up after its wild partying. Then bottle away.
 
Thanks for the tip! Cold crashing is not an option for me as there is no room in the fridge for a 5 gallon carboy :-/
 
Back
Top