Magnetic Pump From AliExpress...

[Blazinlow86]

doing so puts the pump at unecessary risk. the stainless heads have nothing to do with the plastic innser working that most of these pumps have.

when the boil is done the liquid remains above 170 degrees which will keep everything sanitary and sanitize for a long time. I destroyed a pump myself this way and the head shell fine even after I warped the inside and ruined the pump.

Not saying it's not possible to damage the pumps just that I've been doing that way for about 3 years, every other weekend with chugger ss pumps without issues. The few times I had cavitation I just turned the flow down for a moment to correct. Cheers

 

[augiedoggy]

Not saying it's not possible to damage the pumps just that I've been doing that way for about 3 years, every other weekend with chugger ss pumps without issues. The few times I had cavitation I just turned the flow down for a moment to correct. Cheers

your right , some people do it and have not had damage to thier pump or if they did im sure had not realized it could have been related, also keep in mind not all these pumps are built the same. some can tolarate the cavitation more than others and some people only recirculate while boiling for a few minutes which likely reduces the chances of something becoming damaged but I stand by my original comment that pumping water thats still boiling is unnecessary for sanitation and theres no reason to put your pumps through this.

 

[golfindia]

not all these pumps are built the same.

This part is right. You can't make blanket comparisons of the cheap Chinese clones to March pumps. I.E., March 815 pumps are rated for continuous duty, 250F use. I've even read posts here by Mr March stating that they will run continuously for more than 3 years.

(psst! 250F is a higher temp than boiling.....)

 

[cyberbackpacker]

@golfindia true, 250f is a higher temp than boiling-- for water, not other liquids! So the march is rated to pump liquids at 250f, but that doesn't help us who are using the pump to brew. This is significant because wort is still going to boil at ~212F dependent on elevation, and this will still lead to the susceptibility of pump cavitation-- it doesn't matter if the pump head is rated to 250F or not-- as soon as bubbles are formed and create cavities, and present themselves in the pump head, potential for problems associated with cavitation begin. When the bubbles collapse it initiates shockwaves inside the pump head, potentially causing significant damage to the impeller and/or the pump housing. Maybe it won't happen with the March Pump, maybe you could pump boiling wort through it for 100 batches with boiling wort, but it is bad practice, as it does truly threaten the lifespan of the pump head.

 

[Drumminguy81]

Anyone have a current source for these pumps? Looks like they are no longer available on ebay..

 

[MplsUgly]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-DC-Qui...9?pageci=f4e24dee-ed51-4617-8060-fb7ae242e338

Looks like the one I got is still available. This is what I use to recirculate my HLT. Not sure if I would push wort through it tho.

 

[augiedoggy]

Anyone have a current source for these pumps? Looks like they are no longer available on ebay..

which pump? the stainless headed iwaki clones like the MK II? or the march style clones?

 

[Drumminguy81]

Sorry I was talking about the larger nano march clone.. I ended up picking up a chugger max though which is basically the same thing as well..

 

[bstacy1974]

Anyone have impeller issues with these pumps? I replied to this thread in 2018, and recently had issues with the pump.
The backside of the impeller that slides into the cup has a bulge. This is causing the impeller and cup to rub, which sometimes causes the pump not to start.
I sanded the bulge with some 320 grit wet sandpaper, which helped, but the deforming of the impeller is concerning.

 

[Beer666]

Anyone have impeller issues with these pumps? I replied to this thread in 2018, and recently had issues with the pump.
The backside of the impeller that slides into the cup has a bulge. This is causing the impeller and cup to rub, which sometimes causes the pump not to start.
I sanded the bulge with some 320 grit wet sandpaper, which helped, but the deforming of the impeller is concerning.

I think you can buy spare impellers. Saw a youtube video with the same problem. Mine has been fine since being replaced.

 

[augiedoggy]

Anyone have impeller issues with these pumps? I replied to this thread in 2018, and recently had issues with the pump.
The backside of the impeller that slides into the cup has a bulge. This is causing the impeller and cup to rub, which sometimes causes the pump not to start.
I sanded the bulge with some 320 grit wet sandpaper, which helped, but the deforming of the impeller is concerning.

My guess it that it overheated and the plastic warped. do you pump boiling wort with this pump?

 

[bstacy1974]

Williams Brewing lists spare impellers, but are out of stock. Can't find other listing anywhere. I'm a little concerned I'll have to upgrade to chugger or riptide. Just don't want to spend that money right now. I have grain to buy.

 

[augiedoggy]

Theres another thread around here somewhere with links to different suppliers for this part. I remember reading it around 6 month ago. I know this issue has been reported by some who try to pump while actually boiling on the riptide and chugger pumps others have no problems doing so but most only do it for a very short period of time... I think march redesigned the riptide impeller early on because of swelling from the temps and screaching. Bottom line is most magnetic pumps can get damaged from cavitation as already discussed in this thread. There are variables like longer hoses and cooling in those hoses, pump placement and ambient temps which allow more success for some than others. I seized a smaller High temp PPS pump when the cup that surrounds the magnet warped in a similar fashion when trying to use it to pump boiling liquid for a long period.

 

[balrog]

For a sec there I thought you mistyped "scorching" but I bet you really did mean screaching.

 

[bstacy1974]

Theres another thread around here somewhere with links to different suppliers for this part. I remember reading it around 6 month ago. I know this issue has been reported by some who try to pump while actually boiling on the riptide and chugger pumps others have no problems doing so but most only do it for a very short period of time... I think march redesigned the riptide impeller early on because of swelling from the temps and screaching. Bottom line is most magnetic pumps can get damaged from cavitation as already discussed in this thread. There are variables like longer hoses and cooling in those hoses, pump placement and ambient temps which allow more success for some than others. I seized a smaller High temp PPS pump when the cup that surrounds the magnet warped in a similar fashion when trying to use it to pump boiling liquid for a long period.

So, no circulation during the boil?
I'll keep looking for a replacement impeller.

 

[augiedoggy]

So, no circulation during the boil?
I'll keep looking for a replacement impeller.

Theres no real reason to. Most people turn on the pumps to recirculate and sanitize their chillers at flameout. Any temps over 170 degrees will sanitize as effectively here as boiling temps and not cause cavitation in the pump.

 

[augiedoggy]

For a sec there I thought you mistyped "scorching" but I bet you really did mean screaching.

correct... Heres an old thread on the topic where blichmann coincidentally suggests waiting till after the boil after to use the pump.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/problem-with-new-riptide-pump.631018/

 

[bstacy1974]

I've looked all over the interwebs today for a spare impeller. Williams Brewing is the only website that has a listing for one, but it's out of stock. I sent them an email asking for more info. Hopefully I'll get a response. Several other emails to retailers returned an answer of no.
If anyone knows where I can find one, I'd appreciate the assistance.

 

[mtweeman]

I reported the same issue some time ago (see post #47). No one had a spare impeller when I asked on brewing forum in my country, so I decided to contact Chinese supplier that I bought my pump originally from. After few messages, he sent me spare impeller. Maybe you could try this way.
As reasoned many times in this topic, since then I do not recirculate boiling wort. I start to do the whirlpool at flameout and it works ok.