Looking into brew pump. Thoughts?

[SouthPhillyBr3w3r]

I am considering getting the MKII magnetic drive pump from love2brew, but I have a couple questions... How should I configure an on/off controller? I don't like the idea of having to yank the plug or monitor a power strip. I have seen people suggest using a foot pedal, but most that I have seen are momentary/dead-man style, so the pump won't run unless the pedal is depressed. This could be a PITA when doing 25-35 minute whirlpools or mash recirc. I don't yet want to bother with a control panel, since I am brewing in my back-yard with 2 coolers and a kettle. Would the power strip with an on/off switch be ideal? Should I rig up a hand switch or remote? Is a pump even worth it if I am doing a ghetto-rigged 3 tier system? I would appreciate thoughts and suggestions for a total pump n00b.

 

[GrayingNeophyte]

I am also a back yard brewer using two kettles and one cooler. I started using my pump with an extended cord and plug/unplug control. That got old quick. I got a switched power strip and it is much less of a hassle. Maybe someday I will get a controller but until then, power strip it shall be.

 

[gromitdj]

If you wanted to go the DIY route, you could put one of these in a single gang box:
Eaton TR274W 3-Wire Receptacle Combo and wire in an extension cord.
or, you could just use one of these:
GE Grounded On/Off Power Switch

Both are good for 15 amps.

 

[Redpappy]

I have a pump that I am using with my wort chiller. The way I’m doing it is through a switch. I had some scrap wood around, so I built a little box, I added a single gang box. Mounted the pump to the box. I ran an old extension cord to the gang box. Attached it to a light switch. Then attached the pump to the light switch, ( removed the plug and basically hard wired it in) It is very similar to the receptical switch that gromitdj suggested. I just happened to have a switch floating around.

 

[tmendick]

If you wanted to go the DIY route, you could put one of these in a single gang box:
Eaton TR274W 3-Wire Receptacle Combo and wire in an extension cord.
or, you could just use one of these:
GE Grounded On/Off Power Switch

Both are good for 15 amps.

I used that GE switch until I got a full electric panel, it works pretty well and doesn't take up much space.

 

[cwise]

I have the same pump, and this is what I use. Very handy, I got it for under $10.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q9EFUK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Jayjay1976]

The MKII is an excellent choice, get the SS head from the get-go. I love mine.

If you want foot switch control, get a push-on/push-off switch and put it in a gang box.

 

[mirthfuldragon]

I have a DIY powerstrip - it starts with a GFIC outlet, then downstream from that there is a switch with a pilot light and then a second outlet. Everything is rated for 20A. The pilot light switch controls the second outlet, and is wired so the light is on when the switch is on. That lets me switch my pump on and off without having to plug or unplug anything. The whole thing is wired in 1.5" handy boxes and screwed to a piece of 2x6.

GFIC outlet -> Switch with Pilot Light -> switched outlet - > pump

 

[Konadog]

I use something like this (different model) and keep the remote in my pocket so I can get to it at a moments notice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[mongoose33]

You might consider the Blichmann Riptide. It has an on-off switch as part of the pump, a valve that allows you to adjust flow, a pressure-release valve that lets you prime the pump easily....and it's quiet.

It's also magnetic drive. I've used it to pump boiling wort w/ not a hiccup.

 

[NeoBrew]

If I was buying again I'd take a serious look at the Blichman Riptide. Just being able to bleed air without disconnecting hoses would make it worth it for me.

Here is a cheap momentary foot switch. I've hand one for several years and use it for lots of things. It was my pump switch before I built a control panel.

 

[TimmyWit]

If I was buying again I'd take a serious look at the Blichman Riptide. Just being able to bleed air without disconnecting hoses would make it worth it for me.

I have owned March and Chugger and recently switched to the Riptide. I'm really happy with it but full disclosure - the bleed function isn't perfect. Usually when I start bleeding, liquid starts flowing followed by a pocket of air. The liquid will start squirting out the bleed valve before you have a chance to get all the air out of the line. I still find myself flipping the power on/off a few times to get it moving. It's not a deal-breaker but unfortunately it's not just bleed, pump, smile IME.

Where the Riptide really shines is the quietness and the housing. It might seem like a small detail but running a RIMS, minimizing that drone for an hour is a perk in my book.

 

[LarMoeCur]

For me price was the driving factor for my pump selection. I was doing a full build so I had to pinch pennies. At that time the chugger was hard to beat. Especially the center inlets. Those MkII look interesting at that price point but I don't know anything about them.

I would for sure run it on a switch. I would also put a ball valve on the outlet to control flow. Run a quick google search on pump switches there are a ton of easy wiring schematics to follow.

 

[SouthPhillyBr3w3r]

Price is the major issue for me, too. I am designing a T at the outlet with one half going into a bleed valve and the other half going to a throttle valve. I was planning on keeping the polysulfone head for a while, but putting cam lock disconnects on everything to avoid thread stripping. I would probably upgrade to a stainless head once I inevitably break or strip the polymer head.

 

[LarMoeCur]

Price is the major issue for me, too. I am designing a T at the outlet with one half going into a bleed valve and the other half going to a throttle valve. I was planning on keeping the polysulfone head for a while, but putting cam lock disconnects on everything to avoid thread stripping. I would probably upgrade to a stainless head once I inevitably break or strip the polymer head.

Honestly, I've never had a priming issue with a center inlet pump head. I do have the outlet at the 12 o'clock position so the air goes right out the outlet. Primes every time.

 

[beernutz]

Before I built my control panel I used a portable GCFI switch to control pumps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UOU6OVU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20