Looking for a fast (3-4 week) easy drinking Hydromel recipe

[Firestix]

I'm a beekeeper and cider brewer. I've tried brewing some of my honey and, apparently, made some hydromel that my wife loved! I have family coming in about 3-4 weeks and I'd like to make a very drinkable hydromel (Preferably without any fruit or any other additives if necessary.) Any ideas would be very appreciated!

 

[loveofrose]

Fastest thing I have:
https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Fidnemed/

Very tasty though!

 

[Firestix]

Fastest thing I have:
https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Fidnemed/

Very tasty though!

Thank you LOR!
I actually found your site and am interested in this recipe. Is the tea necessary? Not that I think it will taste bad, (It actually looks quite delicious) I just want to be able to distinctly taste the honey that we've harvested off of the bee yard. Plus I'm new to the Fermaid-O game and don't have any. I do have Carlson yeast nutrient, but I'm assuming that it's not an acceptable substitute. The KHCO3 should be fairly easy to find. I should be able to pick up the Wyeast 1388 from the local HBS. If they do not have it in stock, is there a close second? (I currently have Nottigham)

Thanks again for your help!

 

[loveofrose]

The tea has various herbs in it that enhance the body of the mead (a common complaint in hydromels). You can do it with cascade hops, but it's not quite as good.

If you are going to make mead, get Fermaid O. Stuff is wonderful on improving all mead characteristics while avoiding nutrient off flavors from DAP. See here for more info: https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Liquid-yeast-SNA/

Wyeast 1388 is unique. I would highly suggest it. You could try Nottingham, but I can't say how it will turn out.

 

[Firestix]

The tea has various herbs in it that enhance the body of the mead (a common complaint in hydromels). You can do it with cascade hops, but it's not quite as good.

If you are going to make mead, get Fermaid O. Stuff is wonderful on improving all mead characteristics while avoiding nutrient off flavors from DAP. See here for more info: https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Liquid-yeast-SNA/

Wyeast 1388 is unique. I would highly suggest it. You could try Nottingham, but I can't say how it will turn out.

So, I do have cascade hops on hand. I only have DAP nutrient and energizer, but I may just have to order some Fermaid O. The HBS didn't carry it but they could order it. The same with the Wyeast 1388. They didnt carry it but they could order it. The did, however carry WhiteLabs liquid yeasts ... and they also had EC1118. (which I bought)

I was going to try to order the Wyeast 1388 online but they could not guarantee that it would stay cold, even when shipped with ice packets. (I live in the south and it's getting hotter every day) Does it have to be liquid yeast? I'm only going to brew two 1 gallon batches since I just poured out 5 gallons of mead that got infected with acetobacter. I ended up boiling about a liter and am gonna use it as honey vinegar for salads.
So, since that setback, (my first infection since I started brewing) I'm very weary on how much honey I dedicate to mead. (My hives only gave 30 pounds this year)

Any suggestions?

 

[Drewed]

WLP575 Belgian Style Ale Yeast Blend has almost the exact same characteristics as 1388. I have not used it to make a mead so I can't attest to the flavors, but I have liked all of the white labs products that I have used.
If I was in your situation, I would use the WLP575 from you local HBS, and order some fermaid O.

 

[madscientist451]

Groennfell Meadery in Vermont puts all their recipes online. There are also several podcasts where the meadmaker discusses his methods for making a low ABV "craft" mead. He suggests using one packet of D-47 dry yeast per gallon, using Wyeast yeast nutrient, and not heating the honey much over 100 degrees F.
I haven't tried his method yet, but I'm planning on doing some 2 gallon batches in a Mr. Beer fermenter.

Here's their recipes:

http://www.groennfell.com/recipes

 

[loveofrose]

WLP575 Belgian Style Ale Yeast Blend has almost the exact same characteristics as 1388. I have not used it to make a mead so I can't attest to the flavors, but I have liked all of the white labs products that I have used.
If I was in your situation, I would use the WLP575 from you local HBS, and order some fermaid O.

No, it doesn't!!! Mead is completely different. The characteristics 1388 has in mead is different from the characteristics it has in beer. WLP575 produces inferior mead.

 

[loveofrose]

So, I do have cascade hops on hand. I only have DAP nutrient and energizer, but I may just have to order some Fermaid O. The HBS didn't carry it but they could order it. The same with the Wyeast 1388. They didnt carry it but they could order it. The did, however carry WhiteLabs liquid yeasts ... and they also had EC1118. (which I bought)



I was going to try to order the Wyeast 1388 online but they could not guarantee that it would stay cold, even when shipped with ice packets. (I live in the south and it's getting hotter every day) Does it have to be liquid yeast? I'm only going to brew two 1 gallon batches since I just poured out 5 gallons of mead that got infected with acetobacter. I ended up boiling about a liter and am gonna use it as honey vinegar for salads.

So, since that setback, (my first infection since I started brewing) I'm very weary on how much honey I dedicate to mead. (My hives only gave 30 pounds this year)



Any suggestions?

Since you are working with high grade honey (your own!), I would suggest getting the correct materials to do it the best it can be done.

I order Wyeast 1388 from Northern Brewer online and have never had an issue (I live in Dallas, TX; it's fringin hot here). Fermaid O and Potassium Carbonate can be purchased online from www.morewinemaking.com.

Recipe wise, I gave one which I still suggest. I would also suggest a traditional sweet mead to showcase your own honey. You can age this for years and bring out on special occasions. Hydromels are great for quick consumption, but are rather light on showcasing honey characteristics. By the way, high ABV meads are nearly impossible to infect due to the harsh conditions for spoilage organisms.

 

[Miraculix]

Hi!

If it needs to be fast, I can highly recommend the so called "96h met" from fruchtweinkeller.de. The recipe is dead simple and it should be ready to drink after 4-6 days, depending on the temperature. It is based on apple juice (get a good one, it cannot be a clear one) , basically a apple honey federweisser.

The preferred yeast is port whine or a similar highly alcohol tolerant yeast. But at the end, every whine yeast should work as we won't go high in the alcohol range with this one.

Day one, add the yeast to 1.5l natural, unfiltered apple juice.

Day two, add another 1.5l apple juice

Day three, add 500g honey

Day four, try it! To dry? Add some honey and drink it. Not dry enough? Give it one more day to ferment and try again.

This one tastes best chilled. It is possible to let it ferment till it is completely dry and then store it for a few days to a few weeks. Before drinking the dry one, just add some dissolved honey to taste.

Sounds bloody easy to make but really worth a try. Did make it a few times myself and love it every time. The honey shines through nicely and the apple provides the right amount of acid for the taste and nutrients for the yeast.

 

[Firestix]

Since you are working with high grade honey (your own!), I would suggest getting the correct materials to do it the best it can be done.

I order Wyeast 1388 from Northern Brewer online and have never had an issue (I live in Dallas, TX; it's fringin hot here). Fermaid O and Potassium Carbonate can be purchased online from www.morewinemaking.com.

I agree with you about trying to get the best taste since I'm using high grade honey. I'm going to pick up some fermaid O and Potassium carbonate. Also, while reading up on the Wyeast 1388, I see that it has low flocculation. I've yet to cold crash any of my brews. How much does it affect the taste if I forgo the cold crash?

 

[Drewed]

No, it doesn't!!! Mead is completely different. The characteristics 1388 has in mead is different from the characteristics it has in beer. WLP575 produces inferior mead.

MY bad. I was speaking of WLP575
Attenuation -78% - 85%
Flocculation - Medium
Alcohol Tolerance - High (10 - 15%)
Optimum Fermentation Temperature - 66°F - 72°F

vs 1388
ATTENUATION -74 - 78
Flocculation - Low
Alcohol Toloerance - 12
TEMPERATURE RANGE - 64 - 80

I agree that flavor profile might be completely wrong.

 

[landsknechte]

I find that ale yeasts like Nottingham and SAFale S-04 produce the best short meads. I haven't seemed to have any issues drinking stuff in as little as 10-12 days. Those two are consistent yeasts which are very neutral in effect on taste.

Mind you, the short meads are not incredibly complex. So you will pretty much have to go the metheglin and/or melomel route. It may also be a bit hazy in so short a time.

You could go with wine yeasts but I find those can easily take on sulphur-y qualities which need a bit to dissipate. I've used K1V-1116 for a couple shorts and they worked out okay.