Longest Hopstand

[Queequeg]

@Barley_Bob

There are a number of people that no-chill and Im pretty sure they dont remove the hops, but they usually cool it down in their kettle and then transfer the next morning to a fermentor.

I'd still be a bit wary of adding +200F wort to a plastic bucket. I would be surprised if there wasnt a bit of deformation at those temps. If I had to no-chill in a bucket, I would leave it for an hour to cool to the mid 100s or so to be sure

I've done a lot of long hopstands. I've never got any grassy off flavors that I can attribute to the hopstand. If you add them at flameout and keep the temperature stable, maybe thats why people are getting bad results. You are nearly boiling them for another 30min or more

My routine is a large addition at flameout, recirculate (or stir periodically) and let it naturally cool. I'll add more 20-30min later, keeping the flameout addition in, and let that sit another 20-30min before chilling to pitching temps and transferring

Moops why the two additions and why one at knock out and the other after temperature drop?

 

[DemonsRun]

I usually do a 45 Min hopstand at 170F (recirculating and holding 170F). I think even though just below isomerization I still get some bitterness but I honestly can't tell.

 

[Singletrack]

Moops why the two additions and why one at knock out and the other after temperature drop?

Clearly, @Moops is afraid of bitterness.

 

[milldoggy]

@Barley_Bob

There are a number of people that no-chill and Im pretty sure they dont remove the hops, but they usually cool it down in their kettle and then transfer the next morning to a fermentor.

I'd still be a bit wary of adding +200F wort to a plastic bucket. I would be surprised if there wasnt a bit of deformation at those temps. If I had to no-chill in a bucket, I would leave it for an hour to cool to the mid 100s or so to be sure

I've done a lot of long hopstands. I've never got any grassy off flavors that I can attribute to the hopstand. If you add them at flameout and keep the temperature stable, maybe thats why people are getting bad results. You are nearly boiling them for another 30min or more

My routine is a large addition at flameout, recirculate (or stir periodically) and let it naturally cool. I'll add more 20-30min later, keeping the flameout addition in, and let that sit another 20-30min before chilling to pitching temps and transferring

Got me thinking, what about transferring to another kettle, like an 80qt ss Concord. That way you could clean you bk and still no chill Heck, rig a gasket on the lid and ferment in it.

 

[m00ps]

Moops why the two additions and why one at knock out and the other after temperature drop?

I try to make my IPAs with as much hop character as possible, but to also pick up as little bitterness as I can along the way. In the end, Im usually using +1lbs per 5gal batch and it definitely comes in less bitter than most commercial IPAs

I prefer to get most of my bitterness from the hopstand. I figure a flameout addition while letting it slowly cool will pull out some amount of IBUs. How much is debatable and dependant on your system. I'll add the next hopstand addition around 180-170F where it seems to be a consensus that the delicate hop compounds are no longer volatile. I figure that I get a bit less flavor and keep more aroma from this addition. I think of it as an intermediate between a flameout and dry hop addition

anyway, that's just what works for me. If Im going super heavy on hops, i've stopped adding a 60min addition altogether and opt for a 20min addition instead to account for the large hopstand

 

[Barley_Bob]

Haha- I just did my first no-chill, long hop stand beer myself.

I brewed it, and somehow a bag ripped and the whole hops clogged up my entire system- pump, diptube, chiller, etc. I had already added the flameout hops, but it was over 200 degrees and wasn't' going to get any cooler any time soon. So I siphoned to the fermenters (it was an 11 gallon batch), and then spent a couple of hours cleaning out my pump, diptube, chillers, etc.

I pitched the next day at 64 degrees.

Oh, my gosh- this beer is so awesome! I will never be able to screw up enough again to recreate it, but it's one of the best IPAs I ever made.

It was supposed to be a clone of Deschute's Fresh Squeezed, but on brewday I found out I didn't have enough US two-row, so subbed about 1/2 maris otter, and of course did a no-chill which I thought would make it way too bitter, and kill my hops flavor and aroma.

All of these things helped me make one of my best IPAs, ever.

Go figure!

Ha! It's amazing what kind of good a mistake can make. One of the best I ever brew had, like, a 6 hour mash. I haven't quite managed to recreate that beer... one of these days I will. Maybe.

I've been doing the overnight chill for a couple of years. I used to start the cool down in the kettle, then switch it to the fermenter at ~90F, and pitch in the morning. It's so, so easy, especially in the winter when my outdoor faucet is frozen. No muss, no fuss - just put the lid on and walk away.

@Barley_Bob

There are a number of people that no-chill and Im pretty sure they dont remove the hops, but they usually cool it down in their kettle and then transfer the next morning to a fermentor.

I'd still be a bit wary of adding +200F wort to a plastic bucket. I would be surprised if there wasnt a bit of deformation at those temps. If I had to no-chill in a bucket, I would leave it for an hour to cool to the mid 100s or so to be sure

I've done a lot of long hopstands. I've never got any grassy off flavors that I can attribute to the hopstand. If you add them at flameout and keep the temperature stable, maybe thats why people are getting bad results. You are nearly boiling them for another 30min or more

My routine is a large addition at flameout, recirculate (or stir periodically) and let it naturally cool. I'll add more 20-30min later, keeping the flameout addition in, and let that sit another 20-30min before chilling to pitching temps and transferring

What I'm doing now is to have my topoff water chilled and ready (switched to RO, which makes this easy). I pour my hot ~200F wort into the brew bucket and then immediately top of with cool water. This brings it down to 170-180F immediately. I toss in my whirlpool addition - done. So, it's not really sitting at 200F for an extended period of time.

Now that it's summer, I suppose I'll have to change this up a little. It's going to be challenging getting it down where it's supposed to be when it's over 90F. I suppose I can chill my top off water more, but that'll only do so much. I also worry a little about having an open container of wort in the summer, when who-knows-what is floating around. Anyway, all of this is manageable and the principles stay the same.


At the end of the day, I really think this is the best way to get the most out of your whirlpool addition with the least possible effort and financial investment.

 

[Queequeg]

I try to make my IPAs with as much hop character as possible, but to also pick up as little bitterness as I can along the way. In the end, Im usually using +1lbs per 5gal batch and it definitely comes in less bitter than most commercial IPAs

I prefer to get most of my bitterness from the hopstand. I figure a flameout addition while letting it slowly cool will pull out some amount of IBUs. How much is debatable and dependant on your system. I'll add the next hopstand addition around 180-170F where it seems to be a consensus that the delicate hop compounds are no longer volatile. I figure that I get a bit less flavor and keep more aroma from this addition. I think of it as an intermediate between a flameout and dry hop addition

anyway, that's just what works for me. If Im going super heavy on hops, i've stopped adding a 60min addition altogether and opt for a 20min addition instead to account for the large hopstand

Thanks moops. My most recent brew had a 60 min addition, a 10 min addition (1oz) and a hop stand (6oz)at 156F for 45 mins. I will be dry hopping with 8oz. Its a 6.5 gallon batch. I find i get mostly flavour from my stand.