Little Giant Pump 3-MD-HC Questions

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Nerdie

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Hey guys,

I have a 3-MD-HC that people have been raving about...

QUESTION 1

I believe the intake is 3/4" FNPT and the discharge is 1/2" MNPT.

I think I got the discharge covered. I am just going to hook up a 1/2" bulk head valve, right? That way I can control speed right? I shouldn't regulate the intake just the discharge, right? The metal won't strip the plastic?

QUESTION2

How do I connect 1/2" silicone tubing to the intake? Should I, since it is 3/4"? Do I reduce it with
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=81

The picture is of the intake and a 1/2" bulkhead valve:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

QUESTION 3

I am going SS QD. For the intake I guess I will need

3/4" to 1/2" reducer
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=81
and a QD male
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...quick disconnect&category_id=0&product_id=133

for discharge I will need a
bulkhead valve
and a male QD
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...quick disconnect&category_id=0&product_id=133

????

The hoses will probably have
female QD
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...quick disconnect&category_id=0&product_id=140
and an elbow... I'm going to grind the threads for with vise grips and an angle grinder
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...ct&keyword=elbow&category_id=0&product_id=120

??

Why do I even need QD for the pump? I've seen Bobb_M (good guy) do it... might as well i guess right?

QUESTION 4

I was thinking of getting another pump. Not sure if I need one yet...

What's the difference between the 3-MD-HC and the 3-MD-MT-HC ??
The 3-MD-HC goes for over $200 it seems but I found the 3-MD-MT-HC for about $50 cheaper...

They both can handle up to 200* F... Is it because the 3-MD-HC is faster?

http://www.lgpc.com/Product/ItemDetail.aspx?ProductID=691#
http://www.lgpc.com/Product/ItemDetail.aspx?ProductID=697#


I found the MD-MT-HC here for $153.89, 3 Business Day Shipping $9.96:

http://www.drillspot.com/products/72471/Little_Giant_3-MD-MT-HC_Magnetic_Drive_Pump?s=1

QUESTION 5

Catt22 said the pump can run dry from this thread:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/little-giant-pump-3-md-hc-135302/

"The owners manual says it can run dry up to eight hours without damage. That statement alone tells me a lot about the quality. Unfortunately, the LG's are a little more expensive than the March pumps from most suppliers."

However, look at this picture:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

What's the verdict?

QUESTION 6

Does it even matter about hose size reduction with this pump?
Bobby_M and many other have been replacing brass QD and barbs because they restricted the flow. They even shaved down threads. However, look at the hole of the discharge of this pump, it is smaller than the nipple. Probably will be the same size as the barb. Is the same true for pumps, "a chain is as only strong as its weakest link"? Can pumps only run as fast as the most narrow opening? Should I go out of my way to shave threads too?




Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Thanks,

I will most likely order from http://www.bargainfittings.com
So try to reference that site if possible.
 
Hey guys,

I have a 3-MD-HC that people have been raving about...

[QUESTION 1
[/B]
I believe the intake is 3/4" FNPT and the discharge is 1/2" MNPT.

I think I got the discharge covered. I am just going to hook up a 1/2" bulk head valve, right? That way I can control speed right? I shouldn't regulate the intake just the discharge, right? The metal won't strip the plastic?
right with mag drive always do outlet with the valve
QUESTION2[

How do I connect 1/2" silicone tubing to the intake? Should I, since it is 3/4"? Do I reduce it with
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=81
yep you got it
The picture is of the intake and a 1/2" bulkhead valve:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

QUESTION 3[

I am going SS QD. For the intake I guess I will need

3/4" to 1/2" reducer
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=81
and a QD male
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...quick disconnect&category_id=0&product_id=133

for discharge I will need a
bulkhead valve
and a male QD
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...quick disconnect&category_id=0&product_id=133

????
yes again
The hoses will probably have
female QD
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...quick disconnect&category_id=0&product_id=140
and an elbow... I'm going to grind the threads for with vise grips and an angle grinder
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...ct&keyword=elbow&category_id=0&product_id=120

??

Why do I even need QD for the pump? I've seen Bobb_M (good guy) do it... might as well i guess right?
I have brass QDS on everything for now just ordered a bunch of camlocks it makes cleaning so much easier not having the long hoses always attached also think about this you can make hoses certain lengths with a female on each side for certain things it cuts down on clutter IMHO
QUESTI 4

I was thinking of getting another pump. Not sure if I need one yet...

What's the difference between the 3-MD-HC and the 3-MD-MT-HC ??
The 3-MD-HC goes for over $200 it seems but I found the 3-MD-MT-HC for about $50 cheaper...

They both can handle up to 200* F... Is it because the 3-MD-HC is faster?

http://www.lgpc.com/Product/ItemDetail.aspx?ProductID=691#
http://www.lgpc.com/Product/ItemDetail.aspx?ProductID=697#


I found the MD-MT-HC here for $153.89, 3 Business Day Shipping $9.96:

http://www.drillspot.com/products/72471/Little_Giant_3-MD-MT-HC_Magnetic_Drive_Pump?s=1


I use the MD-MT-HC and it had MORE than enough flow for anthing I could ever need i can get a vortex with my whirlpool setup its what ever you want really on that one
QUESTION 5[

Catt22 said the pump can run dry from this thread:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/little-giant-pump-3-md-hc-135302/

"The owners manual says it can run dry up to eight hours without damage. That statement alone tells me a lot about the quality. Unfortunately, the LG's are a little more expensive than the March pumps from most suppliers."

However, look at this picture:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

What's the verdict?
meh i try not to run it dry but if i cant get a prime on it for a minute or so i am not worried about it.
QUESTION 6

Does it even matter about hose size reduction with this pump?
Bobby_M and many other have been replacing brass QD and barbs because they restricted the flow. They even shaved down threads. However, look at the hole of the discharge of this pump, it is smaller than the nipple. Probably will be the same size as the barb. Is the same true for pumps, "a chain is as only strong as its weakest link"? Can pumps only run as fast as the most narrow opening? Should I go out of my way to shave threads too?

I just ordered a bunch of the hose barbs for simplicity if it restricts flow to much than i will sell um and get the FPT females and make my own barbs

In our setting flow is important but not supper critical i mean even at 3 gallons a minute will empty your kettle in 2.5 minutes with 10 gallons in it thats stupid fast




Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Thanks,

I will most likely order from http://www.bargainfittings.com
So try to reference that site if possible.




thats alot of questions whew
 
1. Regulate the output with a ball valve.
2. I used a male 3/4 to male 1/2 reducer and a female barb (slightly larger ID). What you have will also work.
3. QDs are up to you. I dont use them and do just fine. I find I get better flow rate without them.
4. No idea. Check the manufacturers website.
5. If you run it dry for a few minutes, you probably have not done anything. Dont run it dry when you are brewing, it is just better for it. It is also a lot louder if you ever switch it on dry.
6. I shaved the threads on pipe nipples to get my barbs and it flows a lot better for it. The less restriction you have, the faster you are going to flow. I had cheap barbs and replaced them with the new ones I made and got almost double the flow rate. It means that I can now get a very good whirlpool in 12 gallons.
 
I am setting up almost the exact same thing. I have a 3/4" to 1/2' bushing and then have the type F cam lock on that. I am using the street elbows and type B cam lock for the hoses.

I put the hoses together last night and didn't need to gring the threads. I just got the hose started and then 'threaded' it on. I am planning on doing a wet test tonight of the pump while I test my burners with my new 1/2" natural gas hose.

I am shopping for a second pump and considered the 3-MD-MT-HC but for the $50 difference I would rather have 2 of the same pumps.

I do not expect any issues with this setup and am happy that I didn't need to grind the threads off.
 
Lathing the threads off isnt bad, as long as you have access to the equipment to do it. I will be interested to see what you think of the camlocks.
 
I just got the same pump last night and it says in the directions not to reduce the inlet diameter. Is anyone having any problems with reducing to 1/2"? Also, does anyone have a link to a good (decent) SS GATE valve instead of a ball one? I've got 5 of those already and don't like the way they regulate flow.
 
It'll be hard to find a ss gate valve that isn't huge. You may have to compromise....ever consider a sanitary diaphragm valve with ticlovers?
 
I'll consider anything to get away from the ball valve. Do you have a commercial example? What type of loot would we be talking here? I'll be going to 1.5" TC for my "big" brewery, so I'm not averse to TC for my 10 gallon in a few places (due to the$$).
 
I would like to know what made you decide on the Little Giant vs the March. I will be getting a pump in the very near future and I am still on the fence about the Little Giant only because of the 200 F spec. Does anyone here run boiling water/wort through their Little Giant pump to sanitize equipment (CFC) without ill effect?? Spending a little extra for longevity is worth it IMHO.
I contacted Little Giant and they gave me the run around about how it wasn't "Food Grade" certified and they just repeated their spec sheet when it came to the 200 F issue.
 
Running boiling wort through it is not a problem for me.

I got the Little Giant because of the higher flow rate and head pressure rating, and the fact that I picked them up for less than $100 each, $40 cheaper than a march 809.
 
where did you acquire those at such an attractive price? I like the Little Giant more than the March on a lot of levels but never had a definite answer on the whole "running with boiling water/wort" issue. I take it you are using the original heads?
Some websites advertise that you should use an adapter to prevent damage to the threads on the head or the head itself. Are those really necessary or do you just have to use care into putting fittings on?
By the way thanks for replying
 
What part of the Little Giant pump head isn't food grade? I thought I looked and most all materials were the same ones used in the March. Maybe they just don't have the certification?

Main reason I got the 3-MD-HC was flow/pressure. I'll be moving my brewery size up considerably in the near future and this will be helping out there too. I also got the LG due to the apparent longevity, quieter running, rumor that it is easier to prime and ability to run dry.
 
Boiling liquid is not an issue at the pressues we use. Mine was around $165, more than a March but the flow rate is much better and the ability to run dry for a while is also good. It is cheaper than buying the march pump multiple times if it runs dry too much and craps out.
 
Awsome replies. I greatly appreciate it. It looks like I have renewed my faith in my first decision to go with th LG.
Now all I have to do is wait for the money.....
 
I think the smaller LG pump can be had for ~$153; it has an "MT" somewhere in the model number. I got the 3-MD-HC on fleabay shipped for $167 from trader-drew with expedited shipping. Won auction Monday and was opening the box last night (Thursday). Getting the SS fittings tonight for a trial run with boiling water.
 
Running boiling wort through it is not a problem for me.

I got the Little Giant because of the higher flow rate and head pressure rating, and the fact that I picked them up for less than $100 each, $40 cheaper than a march 809.

Were did you score that?
 

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