List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

[Mirilis]

I know this has been covered somewhere but im either finding it and not understanding it or something.

- I want to use one of the 30A Diagrams to build my panel. 1 PID, 2 Pumps, Estop, 2 Elements (1 at a time obviously)(5500W)

I need to put a 30A GFCI Breaker into my box and I have to run wire but Im confused if 10/4 Romex will work or not? 10guage is much cheaper then 8 and 6 for 40 and 50 amps respectively.

I may be able to pull it off if I buy the 10 gauge and use one of the 30 amp builds I just want to make sure.

The other question is if I use his 40a Diagram but power 4500W elements instead of 5500W elements would that work with 30A.

I like having 2 PID's and my thinking is that the less current drawn from the 4500W Element will allow current to be pulled by the extra PID controller and still be safe for 30A service.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Single Element BIAB 30A PID

Will this Contactor work for this diagram?

Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor 120 Volt Coil Contactor by Packard http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20



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[P-J]

Will this Contactor work for this diagram?

Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor 120 Volt Coil Contactor by Packard http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Yes it will. It is almost identical to the one offered by Auber Instruments.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Yes it will. It is almost identical to the one offered by Auber Instruments.

Thanks P-J


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[panoz]

Could any of these schematics be translated in single phase 230V version? I am looking for a controller for a 3kW element a switch for Mash/Boil (PID bypassed) and a wiring to protect me from electrocuting myself in case something goes wrong.

 

[pnerboso]

Hi,

Does anyone have a wiring diagram/advice to run a 30amp 1 pump BIAB setup with a BCS 462 to monitor recirculation, boil, knockout and control hot and cool fermentation chambers, and a keezer?

-Thanks

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Yes it will. It is almost identical to the one offered by Auber Instruments.

P-J,
My main goal is to control the temp in my HLT with a 5500w 240v heating element. I bought a 470k-2W Potentiometer with a 40A SSR. I also have a Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor 120 Volt Coil and Amico Overload Protection 2P+N Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker AC 230V 32A. What is my best diagram of yours to follow to make my panel build a success?
Thanks for your advice.


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[P-J]

P-J,
My main goal is to control the temp in my HLT with a 5500w 240v heating element. I bought a 470k-2W Potentiometer with a 40A SSR. I also have a Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor 120 Volt Coil and Amico Overload Protection 2P+N Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker AC 230V 32A. What is my best diagram of yours to follow to make my panel build a success?
Thanks for your advice.

I'm not sure that I understand what you are trying to do.

How do you intend to control the HLT temperature using a Potentiometer and SSR? What about the temprature sensor?

Why not use a PID and temp probe to do that task?

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

I'm not sure that I understand what you are trying to do.



How do you intend to control the HLT temperature using a Potentiometer and SSR? What about the temprature sensor?



Why not use a PID and temp probe to do that task?

I will monitor the temp by the dial thermometer on the HLT.


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[P-J]

I will monitor the temp by the dial thermometer on the HLT.

Ok... So you intend to go with a completely manual method on the HLT. I cannot even imagine making a diagram for that setup.

Sorry.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Ok... So you intend to go with a completely manual method on the HLT. I cannot even imagine making a diagram for that setup.



Sorry.

Ah so I buy a AUBERIN pid. Now which diagram should I follow. An extra $40 won't break me.


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[P-J]

Ah so I buy a AUBERIN pid. Now which diagram should I follow. An extra $40 won't break me.

Use the first diagram posted in this forum (Page 1 - first post.) That should get you where you need to be. The particular PID - SYL-2352 has both temperature control and percent of power functions.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Use the first diagram posted in this forum (Page 1 - first post.) That should get you where you need to be. The particular PID - SYL-2352 has both temperature control and percent of power functions.

Thanks P-J


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[SpottedDogBrewing]

If I go with this diagram minus the pump and add this Amico Overload Protection 2P+N Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker AC 230V 32A would I still need to add the 1amp fuse?



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[SpottedDogBrewing]

Instead of inline 1amp fuse blocks, What type of 1amp panel fuse block is everyone using?


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[BigFloppy]

got both fuseblock and breakers off eBay (both din mounted)

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

got both fuseblock and breakers off eBay (both din mounted)

Could your send me a link?


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[BigFloppy]

This was the first that came up - shipping extortionate, am sure you'll find cheaper... searched for "wago fuse block" (takes standard 4mm fuses)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wago-281-623-Fuse-Terminal-Block-Pivotable-WOW-/320760068490


This is still showing in my purchase history. You could also search for "din breaker 2p" (2 pole) or "din breaker 1p" (use a breaker as a fuse)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIN-Dail-2P...30-400VAC-25A-6000A-DZ47-63-C25-/321208312048

Talking about 1p breakers, just bought this little 1A baby breaker to use as a fuse in place of my wago fuses to power my aubers, indicators, fans, low power stuff
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SHIPPI...BREAKER-1A-DIN-RAIL-single-pole-/161173684637

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

This is still showing in my purchase history. You could also search for "din breaker 2p" (2 pole) or "din breaker 1p" (use a breaker as a fuse)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIN-Dail-2P...30-400VAC-25A-6000A-DZ47-63-C25-/321208312048

I bought a similar one of these. I was looking for some type of 1 amp panel fuse for the auberins controller. I would assume for protection of the unit. I have a box that screws shut, so to eliminate having to go into the box to change a fuse I would like to be able to change this fuse if it blows outside the box. Just wondering if there was a cheap one I can add to the outside.



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[P-J]

From Radio Shack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062230#

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

From Radio Shack:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062230#

Ha, thanks. Just searched this as soon as you posted. That's exactly what I want


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[Deece]

PJ first and foremost thank you for sharing your knowledge with us all absolutely amazing what you do for us. I'm wondering if you could/or have done any diagrams for 60amp panels? I am fairly certain I could put something together based off your other diagrams however dealing with electricity and liquid I would really appreciate any insight. If you would consider doing so I will post a list of what I would like to accomplish with the panel. Thank you.


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[BadNewsBrewery]

Deece - Post what you're looking to do. The amperage change will only modify some of the components, unless you want something crazy - IE, what you want to do is going to drive the wiring diagram more than how much power you expect it to handel, and it's likely that a design similar to or identical to what you want has already been done, just with lower amperage components.

 

[Mirilis]

From Radio Shack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062230#

I just bought a 5 pack of those from amazon for $5

 

[P-J]

I just bought a 5 pack of those from amazon for $5

You did very well on that purchase. Good job!

 

[Mirilis]

Check this out on AMZN:
http://amzn.com/B00AQWXW9S

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

I see contactors in some designs and not in others! What is the purpose of a contactor? Is it there only for the 110v pump plug?


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[BadNewsBrewery]

I see contactors in some designs and not in others! What is the purpose of a contactor? Is it there only for the 110v pump plug?

A contactor is an over-sized, heavy duty relay. It serves as a mechanical / physical break in the circuit. SSRs have a tendancy to leak voltage, fail in the closed position, and otherwise do whatever they want. So even though your PID may show that it's not triggering the SSR, it's still possible that the SSR is sending some current to the heating element. This can be problematic if you are cleaning your kettle, or even just from a dry-fire perspective. The contactor uses a small input voltage / amperage (you can get a variety of ratings) to close a terminal block that controls the main power source. This way you mount the contactor to your back plate and run all your heavy gauge wires to it, and then put a small switch on your panel door, and run small easy to manage wires to the contactor. Push the button on the panel, the contactor closes, the circuit is complete, and everything works. Push it again, the contactor loses the input voltage, it opens, and the circuit between your PID - SSR - Heating Element is broken and no power will go to the element.

It's basically a substitute for a big 30 amp rated switch mounted to the front of the panel - easier wire runs, better looking switches, and it keeps all the heavy gauge wire to the back of the panel and not on the front.

-Kevin

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

A contactor is an over-sized, heavy duty relay. It serves as a mechanical / physical break in the circuit. SSRs have a tendancy to leak voltage, fail in the closed position, and otherwise do whatever they want. So even though your PID may show that it's not triggering the SSR, it's still possible that the SSR is sending some current to the heating element. This can be problematic if you are cleaning your kettle, or even just from a dry-fire perspective. The contactor uses a small input voltage / amperage (you can get a variety of ratings) to close a terminal block that controls the main power source. This way you mount the contactor to your back plate and run all your heavy gauge wires to it, and then put a small switch on your panel door, and run small easy to manage wires to the contactor. Push the button on the panel, the contactor closes, the circuit is complete, and everything works. Push it again, the contactor loses the input voltage, it opens, and the circuit between your PID - SSR - Heating Element is broken and no power will go to the element.



It's basically a substitute for a big 30 amp rated switch mounted to the front of the panel - easier wire runs, better looking switches, and it keeps all the heavy gauge wire to the back of the panel and not on the front.



-Kevin

So.. If I have a 30amp switch mounted to the front of my panel this contactor is not needed?
Thanks for the full dummy'd down description



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