List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

[mrwizard0]

I'll add in about the main power contactor. I actually have both that and the estop that pj designs. I have the main power one so that I can plug in the controller without power being applied to anything. I know it's not necessary but it gives me a warm fuzzy that I won't electrocute myself and that it doesn't fire any of my elements because I accidentally hit the element switch

 

[rgauthier20420]

I'd like to thanks P-J once again for the RIMS diagram he provided me. Wired my panel and all the outlets yesterday and it's working perfectly. A couple snags do to me being so new to everything, but it was pretty Damn easy. Only took about 3 hours. Thanks!

 

[YD_Stretch]

Hello P-J and the Electric Brewing community!

Thanks to everyone for posting SO MUCH information and for allowing for open discussion without turning into name calling. The professionalism of this community always seems to amaze me.

I have been looking for a diagram and parts order list for what I'm trying to accomplish. I have found a couple of diagrams that include a RIMS and a BK, but I wanted to use a dial switch http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=332 to control the boil kettle and keep the cost down by only using one PID.



I liked the diagram because both the RIMS and pump are controlled by the PID. I would need lights for everything to let me know what's on, I'm a very visual person.

I also am a noob to the sourcing of components like the fuses and in-wire housings, wiring blocks, DIN rails, hell, almost everything.

I have a parts list going and have bought a 1000W element in the RIMS tube and a 4500 and 5500 element (which one, to use?) for the BK. The machine shop teacher at the High School is going to help me cut the element hole in my kettle and wire it up.

I have a mini-panel ran in the garage with 30A GFCI breaker ready to go and I can put in any kind of plug the system needs. All I need is some sage-ly advice and a wiring diagram so I don't electrocute myself!

I understand everyone is busy and am happy to wait. Thank you all for reading, I appreciate it. Anybody else with any suggestions, feel free to PM me or comment below.

 

[mrwizard0]

If I read the diagram correctly, the pid doesn't control the pump. The signal from the pid to the ssr is routed through the pump switch, if the pump is off then the element won't fire, if the pump is on then the element will fire when command by the pid. Also, the only 1 pid is required to run both the rims and the bk. for ease, you could add another contactor and have a rims/bk switch which would change the pid output between the 2. For the price of a contactor, some wire and the plug you would have all you need

 

[YD_Stretch]

Thanks mrwizard,

Would I need another thermocouple hooked up to be switched as well for the PID to tell the SSR to go to boil?


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[P-J]

Thanks mrwizard,

Would I need another thermocouple hooked up to be switched as well for the PID to tell the SSR to go to boil?

No. For the boil you set the pid to manual mode.

 

[YD_Stretch]

Thanks for the reply P-J! Do you have an existing diagram you'd recommend I use?

Thanks!


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[lehr]

PJ,
I was wondering if you had time to help me with one of your drawings?
I have three 4500w 240v elements hlt,mash,boil, I also have a 120v element in my rims tube but I could change it to 240v if it would be better/easier to wire. I would like to use a pid(1ea)on the boil and rims. For the mash and hlt I think I would just like to use a three way switch. I now have a k type thermocouple on the rims tube do I also need one on the boil? I also use my pump on it's own to pump wort to the fermentor.

Thanks Pat

 

[P-J]

PJ,
I was wondering if you had time to help me with one of your drawings?
I have three 4500w 240v elements hlt,mash,boil, I also have a 120v element in my rims tube but I could change it to 240v if it would be better/easier to wire. I would like to use a pid(1ea)on the boil and rims. For the mash and hlt I think I would just like to use a three way switch. I now have a k type thermocouple on the rims tube do I also need one on the boil? I also use my pump on it's own to pump wort to the fermentor.

Thanks Pat

Pat,

You do not need a heating element in the mash kettle. Use the pump to recirculate the mash fluid through a heat exchanger.

Here is a diagram that will fit your described needs and as always - click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I hope this helps you.

P-J

 

[lehr]

Thanks PJ,
The reason I have three elements and a rims tube is because I am retrofitting my gas system to electric and I have already welded the fittings to my kegs. Here is a picture of it with temporary wiring until I build a new control panel.

 

[Airplanedoc]

P-J,

You helped me with a wiring diagram a couple years back. I was hoping you could do so again.

I just picked up a new Bodine gearmotor model 48R6BFC1-F3 AC. 115 VAC Application

I have on order the following

1- 3 position DPDT maintained on off on for forward and reverse
2 - lights yellow one each for forward and reverse
1 - E-stop

I couldn't get a attachment or link to work but the diagram for the motor can be found by searching for "bodine diagram 07410295"


Thanks

AD

 

[P-J]

P-J,

You helped me with a wiring diagram a couple years back. I was hoping you could do so again.
I just picked up a new Bodine gearmotor model 48R6BFC1-F3 AC. 115 VAC Application

I have on order the following
1- 3 position DPDT maintained on off on for forward and reverse
2 - lights yellow one each for forward and reverse
1 - E-stop

I couldn't get a attachment or link to work but the diagram for the motor can be found by searching for "bodine diagram 07410295"

Thanks
AD

Ive not been able to link to the motor so that I could get some idea at what you are dealing with. I was able to find and open the wiring "document" you mentioned. It, however, leaves a lot of mind jumping for me to even begin to make a wiring plan. I wish I had more info (clear info) so that I could be of help to you.

As it is now, I'm stuck..

P-J

 

[Airplanedoc]

Ive not been able to link to the motor so that I could get some idea at what you are dealing with. I was able to find and open the wiring "document" you mentioned. It, however, leaves a lot of mind jumping for me to even begin to make a wiring plan. I wish I had more info (clear info) so that I could be of help to you.

As it is now, I'm stuck..

P-J

Below is a link to the motor. I forgot the item description had a 1 where it should have had a i.

http://www.bodine-electric.com/Catalog/48R-FPSAC.asp

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Do you offer a parts list?


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[P-J]

Below is a link to the motor. I forgot the item description had a 1 where it should have had a i.

http://www.bodine-electric.com/Catalog/48R-FPSAC.asp

The link does not help me at all. So sorry.

P-J

 

[Airplanedoc]

The link does not help me at all. So sorry.

P-J

Don't feel too bad, I called a buddy of mine who is a industrial electrician and used to work for Bodine Electric, and he said that was the most worthless wiring diagram he had ever seen. He was going to try and get a hold of a former coworker who still works for bodine and get some info from him.

 

[celtic_dude]

Hey

I have a quick ? regarding the contactors. I see in most of the wiring diagrams that 1 PID/SSR is used to control multiple contactors while a switch tells which coil to fire on the contactor. But The PID/SSR is sending 110v to one side of the contactor while the other side still has constant power, so does the contactor allow 110v through when it is selected and the PID/SSR is not sending the other 110v?

 

[jeffmeh]

Hey

I have a quick ? regarding the contactors. I see in most of the wiring diagrams that 1 PID/SSR is used to control multiple contactors while a switch tells which coil to fire on the contactor. But The PID/SSR is sending 110v to one side of the contactor while the other side still has constant power, so does the contactor allow 110v through when it is selected and the PID/SSR is not sending the other 110v?

Typically a double pole, single throw, normally open contactor has both hot lines running through it, so that when you have the switch to the contactor coil open (off), you know the element has no power going to it from either leg, and it is truly off. Because SSRs can fail closed (on), and typically leak some current, the contactor is an important safety feature, IMO.

So yes, when the switch to the contactor coil is on, and the contactor is closed, you always have a hot line to the element, and the other hot line going through the SSR will be hot, or not, depending upon whether the PID has signaled the SSR to close the circuit.

 

[P-J]

Don't feel too bad, I called a buddy of mine who is a industrial electrician and used to work for Bodine Electric, and he said that was the most worthless wiring diagram he had ever seen. He was going to try and get a hold of a former coworker who still works for bodine and get some info from him.

AD,

I struggled like hell today trying to come up wih a workable diagram for you. I think I have it worked out. The real problem was the sketchy info provided about the motor by the maker (vendor). I did not throw away any of my time today but spent about 6 hours trying to cypher the info they provided. Good grief-!

Take as look at this and see if it might help you.

______________________________________________________________

The switch I used in the diagram is from Auber Instruments and is the SW3 (center off) unit with 4 added N/O modules added. (Total of 3 decks - 2 each)

If you plan on going this route and need more info - Please let me know..

Wishing you the absolute best.

P-J

 

[P-J]

Hey

I have a quick ? regarding the contactors. I see in most of the wiring diagrams that 1 PID/SSR is used to control multiple contactors while a switch tells which coil to fire on the contactor. But The PID/SSR is sending 110v to one side of the contactor while the other side still has constant power, so does the contactor allow 110v through when it is selected and the PID/SSR is not sending the other 110v?

Please link a diagram and explain a little more about your concerns..

I'd be glad to help.

P-J

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Hey P-J,

So I understand the theory behind the contactor as a failsafe for the relay. That being said, why not use a dual relay? What are the odds of both sides failing open? And if they do just kill the power to the panel? I guess I don't see the need.

 

[Airplanedoc]

AD,

I struggled like hell today trying to come up wih a workable diagram for you. I think I have it worked out. The real problem was the sketchy info provided about the motor by the maker (vendor). I did not throw away any of my time today but spent about 6 hours trying to cypher the info they provided. Good grief-!

Take as look at this and see if it might help you.

______________________________________________________________

The switch I used in the diagram is from Auber Instruments and is the SW3 (center off) unit with 4 added N/O modules added. (Total of 3 decks - 2 each)

If you plan on going this route and need more info - Please let me know..

Wishing you the absolute best.

P-J

P-J,

I have parts ordered should arrive next week. Now I just have to figure out a cabinet.

My electrician buddy said he would give me a hand when I get down to wiring it, and he is pretty sure no blue smoke will come out if something isn't quite right. Which is a good thing because he doesn't have the tool to put the smoke back in once it escapes.

Of course he also advised I find some insulated underwear for when we turn it on.... and that I might not want to sleep in the house with it there.

As I said he is not happy with the bodine schematic and he used to work for them.

Thanks for the diagram, I will let you know the results.

 

[P-J]

P-J,

I have parts ordered should arrive next week. Now I just have to figure out a cabinet.

My electrician buddy said he would give me a hand when I get down to wiring it, and he is pretty sure no blue smoke will come out if something isn't quite right. Which is a good thing because he doesn't have the tool to put the smoke back in once it escapes.

Of course he also advised I find some insulated underwear for when we turn it on.... and that I might not want to sleep in the house with it there.

As I said he is not happy with the bodine schematic and he used to work for them.

Thanks for the diagram, I will let you know the results.

AD,

Please refresh the diagram view. I overlooked one item in the sketchy info given about the motor. The "run capacitor"... I've updated the diagram and added it to the plan.

Thanks for understanding.

P-J

 

[P-J]

Hey P-J,

So I understand the theory behind the contactor as a failsafe for the relay. That being said, why not use a dual relay? What are the odds of both sides failing open? And if they do just kill the power to the panel? I guess I don't see the need.

When you say "relay" are you referring to the SSR? If so, using 2 of them still will not isolate and protect you from leakage current.

But if you want - do it your way. I choose not to "bet my life"

P-J

 

[sandyeggoxj]

When you say "relay" are you referring to the SSR? If so, using 2 of them still will not isolate and protect you from leakage current.

But if you want - do it your way. I choose not to "bet my life"

P-J

Geez man, Just asking questions here. In the future I will state "solid state relay" instead of relay to avoid any doubt in what I am referring to. I am sorry to be asking such elementary questions. I will take my inquiries somewhere else next time.

 

[celtic_dude]

Please link a diagram and explain a little more about your concerns..

I'd be glad to help.

P-J

Not sure if I am able to do a diagram at the moment. But my main concern is about the constant 110v running to the element. I assume that the element can not fire unless it has the full 220v running to it when the PID tells the SSR to send the other 110v leg. But can the constant 110V running to the element do any damage to it or are there any safety issues to worry about?

Hope that makes sense

 

[Loodachris]

When you say "relay" are you referring to the SSR? If so, using 2 of them still will not isolate and protect you from leakage current.

But if you want - do it your way. I choose not to "bet my life"

P-J

Geez man, Just asking questions here. In the future I will state "solid state relay" instead of relay to avoid any doubt in what I am referring to. I am sorry to be asking such elementary questions. I will take my inquiries somewhere else next time.

Don't see the need to take the comment wrong. He was stating a point and a safety concern. It's the internet don't get offended so quick. Relax and have a homebrew

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Don't see the need to take the comment wrong. He was stating a point and a safety concern. It's the internet don't get offended so quick. Relax and have a homebrew

The "do it your way" line of the post was not needed. The rest was helpful information that enriched the conversation.

 

[jeffmeh]

Not sure if I am able to do a diagram at the moment. But my main concern is about the constant 110v running to the element. I assume that the element can not fire unless it has the full 220v running to it when the PID tells the SSR to send the other 110v leg. But can the constant 110V running to the element do any damage to it or are there any safety issues to worry about?

Hope that makes sense

No safety issues if you incorporate the DPST, NO contactor. Switch it off, and you know both lines are off and your element has no hot lines to it. When you want to heat, turn your switch on to close the contactor circuits, and let the PID/SSR do its work. Always consider the element to be hot when your switch/contactor is set to ON. When the SSR is closed the element will fire, and you have a closed 240v circuit. When the SSR is open the element will not fire (leakage aside), but one of the lines is hot with 120v, which is still a good reason to consider it hot. Problem solved.

 

[celtic_dude]

No safety issues if you incorporate the DPST, NO contactor. Switch it off, and you know both lines are off and your element has no hot lines to it. When you want to heat, turn your switch on to close the contactor circuits, and let the PID/SSR do its work. Always consider the element to be hot when your switch/contactor is set to ON. When the SSR is closed the element will fire, and you have a closed 240v circuit. When the SSR is open the element will not fire (leakage aside), but one of the lines is hot with 120v, which is still a good reason to consider it hot. Problem solved.

Makes Sense! Thanks So no harm to the elements then with 120v running.