List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

[Flomaster]

It is not to hard can someone design the following

RIMs tube 4500 Watt ULD element.
BK 5500 watt
HLT 5500 Watt
Two chugger pumps
3 Amber PIDS SYL 2352
E stop
Alarm
Led lights
40amp SSR
AMP/VOLT meter
On/off switches (not toggle type)


Sent from my HTC One using Home Brew mobile app

 

[Frymn1969]

Question for P-J...or anyone who can answer it. Is this panel capable of powering the 2 5500 elements simultaneously? Hence the reason there are 2 PID's. If so GREAT because that's exactly what I want to do!!



http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a11a-SWA-2451-5500w.jpg

 

[P-J]

Question for P-J...or anyone who can answer it. Is this panel capable of powering the 2 5500 elements simultaneously? Hence the reason there are 2 PID's. If so GREAT because that's exactly what I want to do!!

View attachment 171459

Yes, it is set up to power both elements. The power feed is from a 240V 50A breaker.

P-J

 

[Frymn1969]

Absolutely amazing Sir!!! I know I'm really pushing my luck....But would you happen to have a parts list to build this panel and a cover layout? Thanks a ton P-J

 

[P-J]

Absolutely amazing Sir!!! I know I'm really pushing my luck....But would you happen to have a parts list to build this panel and a cover layout? Thanks a ton P-J

Sorry, I don't have a parts list for that particular wiring plan.

You might want to check out this Wall Mount Box for Two Controllers Pre-cut.
Hope this help you.

P-J

 

[Frymn1969]

Absolutely helpful. They have pretty much everything needed

 

[kevreh]

Also many of the electrical componants, especially if you go with DIN rails, can be found at http://www.ebrewsupply.com/.

 

[Flomaster]

I can't decide if I want 2pids or three...

Rims tube, HLT, BK
I can use one pid for the HLT /BK. The other for rims tube. But I'd like to monitor the temp inside the MLT. Either way I can't believe no one else has built a system like I intend to build.

2 pump's
Rims
HLT
Bk
2or3 pids
Lights above switches

Or have I missed those diagrams?


Sent from my HTC One using Home Brew mobile app

 

[Frymn1969]

Sorry, I don't have a parts list for that particular wiring plan.



You might want to check out this Wall Mount Box for Two Controllers Pre-cut.

Hope this help you.



P-J

P-J, let's say I want to monitor the wort (mash temp) coming out of the HLT before it goes through the HERMS coil. This will verify the mash temp versus the HLT temp. Would an additional PID be wasteful for this purpose, if so what would you recommend.?

Thanks again!

 

[Frymn1969]

P-J, let's say I want to monitor the wort (mash temp) coming out of the Mash Tun before it goes through the HERMS coil. This will verify the mash temp versus the HLT temp. Would an additional PID be wasteful for this purpose, if so what would you recommend.?

Thanks again!

Correction above. I meant to say wort coming out of Mash Tun

 

[RocketBrewer]

PJ,
First, let me say thanks for all you have contributed here! Your time and effort is very appreciated. It is truly amazing how much work you have put into helping others. I have learned so much just from this thread. Maybe you could put up a paypal link so those of us who have enjoyed your work could at least buy you a beer .

I am getting ready to start building my first electric brewery and have been studying controllers including The Electric Brewery and ebrewsupply. I have found that I like features from both of them. I also like many of your designs. The one of your's that comes closest to what I'd like to build is this one...

If you saw fit to help one more rookie my wish list would include these changes...

1) To use two of the SYL-2352 PID's for HLT and BK control.

2) Add the Auber JSL-73A brewing timer (I like the ability to pre-program all the timers I need before starting the brew).

3) I would also like to incorporate the ability to run the PID and timer alarms through on/off switches to a central buzzer/LED with reset button like Kal uses in his controller here.. http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=12.

I had one other question about how you set up the resistors in the e-stop... should you use a small circuit board to mount them with jumpers or is there some easier method?

Feel free to make any suggestions or comments that come to mind and even if you decide not to take this on..... THANKS FOR ALL YOU'VE DONE!

 

[Frymn1969]

PJ,

First, let me say thanks for all you have contributed here! Your time and effort is very appreciated. It is truly amazing how much work you have put into helping others. I have learned so much just from this thread. Maybe you could put up a paypal link so those of us who have enjoyed your work could at least buy you a beer .



I am getting ready to start building my first electric brewery and have been studying controllers including The Electric Brewery and ebrewsupply. I have found that I like features from both of them. I also like many of your designs. The one of your's that comes closest to what I'd like to build is this one...

If you saw fit to help one more rookie my wish list would include these changes...



1) To use two of the SYL-2352 PID's for HLT and BK control.



2) Add the Auber JSL-73A brewing timer (I like the ability to pre-program all the timers I need before starting the brew).



3) I would also like to incorporate the ability to run the PID and timer alarms through on/off switches to a central buzzer/LED with reset button like Kal uses in his controller here.. http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=12.



I had one other question about how you set up the resistors in the e-stop... should you use a small circuit board to mount them with jumpers or is there some easier method?



Feel free to make any suggestions or comments that come to mind and even if you decide not to take this on..... THANKS FOR ALL YOU'VE DONE!

I whole hearted second your appreciation for P-J's contribution to home brewing.

I also happen to like your idea for a panel. I would add two changes to your specs; 1. Add ability to monitor but not control one more temp input, 2. Upgrade the BK output to 80 amp for those really large or high gravity beers.

Cheers!!!

 

[P-J]

...
2) Add the Auber JSL-73A brewing timer (I like the ability to pre-program all the timers I need before starting the brew).

...
I also happen to like your idea for a panel. I would add two changes to your specs; 1. Add ability to monitor but not control one more temp input, 2. Upgrade the BK output to 80 amp for those really large or high gravity beers.
...

Just a small over view. I spent a lot of time today trying to deveop an image of the JSL-73A timer so that I can include it in a wiring diagram. You might think this is an easy task. Try it and see how you do in handling your drawings.

And then we have the development of an 80 amp panel design...

It wll takes me quite a bit of time to develop the diagrams that you two requested..

Patience .. Please...

 

[Frymn1969]

Take all the time you need P-J. The 80 amp would only be on the BK side to run 2 elements in the BK when not running BK HLT simultaneously. This would help get 30 gallon batches boiling. I definitely like the timer idea, plus being able to monitor Mash Tun temp. You Rock!

 

[RocketBrewer]

PJ, ABSOLUTELY NO RUSH. I expect nothing, If you find the time and wish to help me, AWESOME! But you owe me nothing. You are so cool for doing all this I just feel a little guilty for even asking. I wish you lived close enough that I could do something to return the favor.

I agree it would be nice to have a temp monitor on the mash output. Kal's system uses another PID just to monitor the temp. It doesn't actually control anything but does have the alarm feature. I haven't come across any other methods yet (other than just an analog gauge).

Originally I thought it would be nice to be able to control two elements in either the HLT or BK if you weren't heating both at the same time to speed things up for back-to-back, but I have a feeling it would become to convoluted on a 50A system. All the 50A systems I've seen seem to either be able to heat 1 element in each kettle simultaneously, or 2 elements in each with the ability to heat only one kettle or the other. I haven't seen any system with an 80A GFI yet, very curious to see What PJ comes up with there!

Once again PJ,
YOU ROCK!:rockin:

Matt

 

[RocketBrewer]

3) I would also like to incorporate the ability to run the PID and timer alarms through on/off switches to a central buzzer/LED with reset button like Kal uses in his controller here.. http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=12.

PJ,
Originally I thought that Kal's system used a single reset button to reset any of the alarms (PID's or Timer). In looking some more at Kal's alarm design, I've noticed that the reset button he uses only resets the timer he uses because it appears to require an external reset button. All the PID's seem to use their own reset buttons. Since the JSL-73A timer has a reset button, an external one isn't required. While a single reset button for everything would be cool, it certainly isn't required. I still would like to utilize a central buzzer/light for the alarms with switches to activate/de-activete the alarm for each of the PID's and timer. I don't know if that had anything to do with the difficulty of adding the timer to the system, but thought i'd point that out.

I also think that I would definitely like to utilize a third PID for mash monitoring as well (I should be able to figure out how to add it myself if you already designed it without)

Thanks again,
Matt

 

[exe]

Hi PJ - thanks for all your contributions here! I am VERY interested in building the very simplistic RIMS controller on pg 21 of the thread, but I like to understand all the rationale before building something like this. I have temp controllers set up for my kegerator and fermentation chamber and neither require a SSR. Can you explain to me why an SSR is needed for a RIMS setup? If there is another post on this topic please feel free to send me in that direction instead of answering here.

Again - thanks!

 

[P-J]

Hi PJ - thanks for all your contributions here! I am VERY interested in building the very simplistic RIMS controller on pg 21 of the thread, but I like to understand all the rationale before building something like this. I have temp controllers set up for my kegerator and fermentation chamber and neither require a SSR. Can you explain to me why an SSR is needed for a RIMS setup? If there is another post on this topic please feel free to send me in that direction instead of answering here.

Again - thanks!

The SSR is required as the PID I choose to use cannot control the raw power requied for the element without it.

 

[exe]

The SSR is required as the PID I choose to use cannot control the raw power requied for the element without it.

I think I follow. To paraphrase (correct me if I'm wrong), the difference is that the the Love switch has a higher output which would allow for powering the freezer\heating element, but for a RIMS application where accuracy is key it makes more sense to go with a PID.

 

[BigFloppy]

I think I follow. To paraphrase (correct me if I'm wrong), the difference is that the the Love switch has a higher output which would allow for powering the freezer\heating element, but for a RIMS application where accuracy is key it makes more sense to go with a PID.

The Love controller uses a mechanical relay as it's switching engine, an SSR by design has no moving parts. you could probably do the same mods to a Love controler, much like this guy... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/rex-c100-pid-cheapest-pid-ebay-254480/.

ALSO, if you were to drive a mechanical relay at both the speeds and power rating an SSR can handle, you'd either be welding the terminals of the relay shut in next to no time, or not even getting the relay to actuate

 

[BigFloppy]

link to more P-J diags
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/control-panel-question-456901/

 

[dhoge]

PJ, I would like to thank you in advance, for all the knowledge and drawings you share. People like you make this world a better place. After reading through this thread and drawings, I have determined that this diagram is prob my best bet. Please correct me if i am wrong.

30a 5500 2 element 2 pump single PID estop

I have a simple setup, but like the idea of being able to upgrade.
What I have now- 30 amp breaker in main panel- 10/4 wire to 50 amp gfci spa panel- 3 prong dryer plug- 5500 watt camco element to heat HLT- 120v chugger pump to transfer HLT and sparge- gravity fed BK propane fired.
I want to add in the future, a herms, another pump, and possibly another element for the BK.
Any criticisms and help is much appreciated.
Derek

 

[exe]

Ok. Here is a diagram that you can use.

As always click on the image to see and save a fullscale diagram for your build.



I hope this helps you.

P-J

P-J: On this one, if the RIMS is 1500W, could I use one conventional wall outlet to power both the pump & RIMS by breaking the tab on the hot side of the outlet? That would reduce some of the wiring required and make the build a little cleaner for me. If that is possible, would I need to wire two neutrals to the outlet or would one do the trick?

 

[P-J]

P-J: On this one, if the RIMS is 1500W, could I use one conventional wall outlet to power both the pump & RIMS by breaking the tab on the hot side of the outlet? That would reduce some of the wiring required and make the build a little cleaner for me. If that is possible, would I need to wire two neutrals to the outlet or would one do the trick?

I'm not sure what you are asking. Break what tab? Please explain a little more.

 

[jeffmeh]

I suspect that he is referring to breaking the tab on a standard, 120v, duplex outlet, so that each receptacle can be powered independently.

 

[exe]

I suspect that he is referring to breaking the tab on a standard, 120v, duplex outlet, so that each receptacle can be powered independently.

Exactly...sorry for not being clear.

 

[P-J]

If that is the case and you are supplying power to each individual outlet, then you also need to supply independent neutrals as well.

P-J

 

[RocketBrewer]

P-J,
I had a couple questions for you, I had asked you at the top of page 29 of this thread about possibly modifying one of your diagrams to include the JSL-73A brewing timer (once again not expecting anything or trying to pressure you). But I was curious. You stated ...

Just a small over view. I spent a lot of time today trying to deveop an image of the JSL-73A timer so that I can include it in a wiring diagram. You might think this is an easy task. Try it and see how you do in handling your drawings.

Was this because you don't think that timer will work in this application or was it my request for one central alarm cancel button that was difficult?
I also noticed that some people use a Main power contactor (usually controlled by a key switch) in their designs but haven't seen one in any of yours that I can remember. Is it just not necessary? I'm by no means questioning your knowledge or designs, just trying to learn as much as I can to figure out if it's something that I should be using in mine.

Once again... Thanks so much for your time

Matt

 

[jeffmeh]

P-J,
I had a couple questions for you, I had asked you at the top of page 29 of this thread about possibly modifying one of your diagrams to include the JSL-73A brewing timer (once again not expecting anything or trying to pressure you). But I was curious. You stated ...

Was this because you don't think that timer will work in this application or was it my request for one central alarm cancel button that was difficult?
I also noticed that some people use a Main power contactor (usually controlled by a key switch) in their designs but haven't seen one in any of yours that I can remember. Is it just not necessary? I'm by no means questioning your knowledge or designs, just trying to learn as much as I can to figure out if it's something that I should be using in mine.

Once again... Thanks so much for your time

Matt

Since P-J seems to be having computer problems, I will be presumptuous and chime in.

I believe his statement around the JSL-73A timer meant that it was difficult to find enough information on the web to be able to determine definitively how to wire it.

His diagrams generally incorporate an e-stop that shunts a very small amount of current to ground, and depends upon a working GFCI to detect that and trip. The advantage here is that power is cut off at the GFCI, so you have no power at your control panel. IMO, if you use this approach, it's worth testing your GFCI before every brew to make sure it is working, as they can fail.

The other approach is to use a switch and contactor to cut off main power in the control panel. That is a fine design also, but bear in mind that even when main power is off you have hot wires at the switch and at the line terminals of the contactor.

It's really personal preference as to which way you want to go, although some treat the issue with religious fervor.

 

[RocketBrewer]

Thanks jeffmeh,
I have received my timer and had a chance to play with it. It seems to be fairly straight forward as to wiring. I believe that P-J may have been having issues with my request to have one reset button for all alarms (if there's some other problem with wiring, hopefully P-J will chime in).

I was also trying to understand why some designs use a main power contactor, and have come to the conclusion that it is just a different way to make the e-stop function (as you explained).

I have the utmost respect for P-J and his designs and feel that his method is the safest by cutting all power to the panel, so that's the way i'll be doing mine.

Thanks again for the input, without guys like you and P-J, some of us would never even attempt to build something like this. I will be starting a build thread soon hopefully.