List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

[TNugent]

If needed, I can adjust the diagram to include an interlock or any other changes that you might need or want.

Just saying. I think this old man can wrap my head around your plan.

(LOL)

P-J

If you are bored stop by my three pronged outlet thread and look at my last entry to see if you could throw some input my way.

 

[P-J]

Is there a wiring diagram available for a simple controller like this:

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=3084&idcategory=306#.Ul8R2xByZX8

No PID or pumps involved and just a single 5500w element.

Thanks

That unit appears to be a very simple power delivery system similar to the components offered by Auber Instruments.

25A Solid State Voltage Regulator SSVR

The setup looks like this:

If you choose to use this, be sure to click on the Please Choose: Rheostat Option (Pull down)

(SSVR Only - without Rheostat
For 120V AC, 60Hz
For 240V AC, 60Hz )

I'm sure this would work out for you.

P-J

 

[P-J]

If you are bored stop by my three pronged outlet thread and look at my last entry to see if you could throw some input my way.

A link would help a lot....

 

[Loodachris]

If your willing to take the time to add the interlock that would be great and I won't turn the offer down at all! I will be switching out the RIMS heating element for a 2500W Camco lime life element and the 4500W element for a 5500W element if that changes anything? I also added 2 indicator lights one each between the switches and the elements and 2 indicator lights for the pumps.

 

[TNugent]

A link would help a lot....

good point

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/3-prong-240v-outlet-question-437191/#post5589737

 

[P-J]

good point

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/3-prong-240v-outlet-question-437191/#post5589737

Funny... I already had that post flagged to develop a new diagram reply for you.

Be patient. It will take me some time as the diagram is already very complex.. It will take me a lot of time just to make room for the addiional circuitry.

Thanks for your response.

P-J

 

[Oddball]

That unit appears to be a very simple power delivery system similar to the components offered by Auber Instruments.

25A Solid State Voltage Regulator SSVR

The setup looks like this:

If you choose to use this, be sure to click on the Please Choose: Rheostat Option (Pull down)

(SSVR Only - without Rheostat
For 120V AC, 60Hz
For 240V AC, 60Hz )

I'm sure this would work out for you.

P-J

Thanks PJ!

I am not going to buy this from high gravity. I am going to try to build something similar, I just don't know very much about electrical. That is why I asked for a diagram.

I didn't see a "Please choose rheostat" option. Only cord type/length and receptacle type.

Just to be clear: The "AC" on the diagram is for the plug seen on the box where the element would plug in correct? Where would the wire from controller to the wall be located?

 

[BBBF]

PJ

I have a 120v, duel element boil kettle build in progress and I got the crazy idea that I needed to add a RIMS system to it. I looked through your list of drawings and I could not find an example of what I looking to do. I then dug through every topic in the Electric Brewing and finally found something similar to what I would like. It is not one of your drawings, but I was hoping I could get at least get your opinion on it. If it isn't asking too much, I would really appreciate some help with a redesign, as there are several things I would like to do differently. A link to the drawing I found is attached below. It is a 2 circuit, 2 PID system that runs two 2000w elements on a BK and a 1500w element in a RIMS.

In my ideal build, I would like the 2 PIDs to each have a green LED push button switch. One of the boil kettle elements would be controlled by an On/Off selector switch with a yellow LED indicator light. The 2nd boil kettle element and the RIMS element would be controlled by an On/Off/On selector switch and have two yellow LED indicators to show which element is being powered. I'd like two blue LED push button switches for a Pump and an Auxiliary outlet (most likely a future pump). The original drawing is set up so that the RIMS element can not run unless the pump is on. While this is an excellent idea, I want to run the pump at the same time as both boil kettle elements, so I plan to break that tie for now . I would also like to include an emergency stop switch.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attach...element-120v-control-panel-wiring-diagram.pdf

 

[P-J]

Thanks PJ!

I am not going to buy this from high gravity. I am going to try to build something similar, I just don't know very much about electrical. That is why I asked for a diagram.

I didn't see a "Please choose rheostat" option. Only cord type/length and receptacle type.

Just to be clear: The "AC" on the diagram is for the plug seen on the box where the element would plug in correct? Where would the wire from controller to the wall be located?

I didn't see a "Please choose rheostat" option.

Look at the "Add to Cart" block. There is a pull down for you to choose from labeled: "Please Select".

 

[MyNameIsPaul]

Paul,

Thank you for your kind words.
Here is a diagram that I just finished for you as I did not have one that really fit your description. I hope it matches your needs.

And as always - click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I hope this helps you in your adventure.

P-J

P-J,
I've got all my parts purchased and on their way! Thanks for diagramming this for me.

I've got a question that I hope you could help me out on though....

I've got a toolbox pump that I use and would like to incorporate into this control panel build. The pump uses a GFCI outlet, and a 2 Gang switch (one for main power, one to turn on pump) The outlet is wired in on the back to power a 3 bank power strip that I plugged my pump into. How would I wire/rewire the pumpbox to run separately of the control panel, but also run when plugged into the control panels pump outlet?

Any takers?!

 

[P-J]

P-J,
I've got all my parts purchased and on their way! Thanks for diagramming this for me.

I've got a question that I hope you could help me out on though....

I've got a toolbox pump that I use and would like to incorporate into this control panel build. The pump uses a GFCI outlet, and a 2 Gang switch (one for main power, one to turn on pump) The outlet is wired in on the back to power a 3 bank power strip that I plugged my pump into. How would I wire/rewire the pumpbox to run separately of the control panel, but also run when plugged into the control panels pump outlet?

Any takers?!

I redrew the diagram to provide a second outlet for your setup. The diagram also shows that the RIMS element outlet could be used for additional purposes with the use of the heat switch.

As always click on the image to see and save a full scale diageam that is printable on Tabloid paper. (11" x 17")




I hope this helps you in your desired plan.

P-J

 

[MyNameIsPaul]

Nicely done. Thank you so much PJ!

 

[TNugent]

If I decided to go off this diagram exactly with the only change being the RIMS element as 120v what all would I need to change? Would the contactor still be a good idea or should I wire it up just like the 3 120v outlets on the bottom? (I know I talked of putting it other switches and being able to power up the 460 without anything else being powered but I don't want to get overly complicated.) I am planning on a 30a circuit so I went with 4500w 240v's and a 1500w 120v for the RIMS.

 

[P-J]

If I decided to go off this diagram exactly with the only change being the RIMS element as 120v what all would I need to change? Would the contactor still be a good idea or should I wire it up just like the 3 120v outlets on the bottom? (I know I talked of putting it other switches and being able to power up the 460 without anything else being powered but I don't want to get overly complicated.) I am planning on a 30a circuit so I went with 4500w 240v's and a 1500w 120v for the RIMS.

With the set up as you describe, the amp draw is over 30 amps with any 2 elements on at a time (RIMS + .

Now, if you use the 4500W elements plus a 1500W-240V RIMS element, you would be good to go.

Think about it.

P-J

 

[TNugent]

With the set up as you describe, the amp draw is over 30 amps with any 2 elements on at a time (RIMS + .

Now, if you use the 4500W elements plus a 1500W-240V RIMS element, you would be good to go.

Think about it.

P-J

Wow, brain fart. Just looked and I bought a 1500w/240v element, not a 120v. So I can basically use the diagram as is.

 

[P-J]

Wow, brain fart. Just looked and I bought a 1500w/240v element, not a 120v. So I can basically use the diagram as is.

Wow - Absolutely not a brain problem - It was a stroke of Luck!!!

If I can help you in your plan, please let me know.

P-J

 

[FunCat1828]

These diagrams are absolutely fantastic P-J. I've just read every page of this thread from the start to the end and I'd like to say I am delighted to see you are still here posting away. I am sincerely hoping your health has improved since page 1!

I'm just starting out on this journey into electric brewing and am looking at the ebrewsupply kits at the moment. I think I am going to get this one http://www.ebrewsupply.com/ebrew-kits/bcs-controlled/bcs-4-element-2-pumps-50a-kit.html and a BCS-462 and emulating something like https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/single-tier-3-pump-bcs-462-automated-rig-204705/ in an electric form.

I am starting to grasp the wiring from your diagrams, they just are nice and easy to understand for those of us who are just delving into electrical wiring, thank you for all of these as they have helped me greatly in grasping what each of these components and wires are doing.

My challenge is to go from the ebrewsupply kit and translate it into one of your diagrams from http://www.ebrewsupply.com/designs/50a-BCS-4-Electric.pdf

I am thinking that your diagram in post 163 above is fairly similar, and that I can probably work most of it our from that one. http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/BCS-460-wiring-2-4.jpg

 

[P-J]

These diagrams are absolutely fantastic P-J. I've just read every page of this thread from the start to the end and I'd like to say I am delighted to see you are still here posting away. I am sincerely hoping your health has improved since page 1

...

It pleases me a great deal that I've been of some help to you in your adventure.

Please let me know if you run into problems. We can work it out for sure.

P-J

 

[dannysk]

Spectacular. Pushing me to convert my propane brewery to an electric brewery!!

 

[djdixon1995]

PJ,


My sincere thanks for all the knowledge and guidance that you provide to us novice e-brewers. You're input has been indispensable in the construction of my first, modest control panel. I've built a 30W, single PID, 2 pump, 2 element panel based on one of your drawings from the first page of this thread. It's up and running but there's a mod I want to make that perhaps you or one of the other experts could advise me on.

I'd like to add a second temp sensor to the system in the boil kettle so that I can set a temp just below boiling...so as to prevent boil overs until I'm ready to devote all my attention to the boil. I've scoured your diagrams and haven't seen one with two temp probes switched from a single PID...do you know if this is doable and if so, what type of switch/wiring setup I'd use?

Thanks a ton.

 

[P-J]

PJ,


My sincere thanks for all the knowledge and guidance that you provide to us novice e-brewers. You're input has been indispensable in the construction of my first, modest control panel. I've built a 30W, single PID, 2 pump, 2 element panel based on one of your drawings from the first page of this thread. It's up and running but there's a mod I want to make that perhaps you or one of the other experts could advise me on.

I'd like to add a second temp sensor to the system in the boil kettle so that I can set a temp just below boiling...so as to prevent boil overs until I'm ready to devote all my attention to the boil. I've scoured your diagrams and haven't seen one with two temp probes switched from a single PID...do you know if this is doable and if so, what type of switch/wiring setup I'd use?

Thanks a ton.

You referennce a diagram. Which one?

P-J

 

[Loodachris]

Ya sorry I got online sellers mixed up I'll just be moving along now.

 

[emjay]

please do your research on these forums about the web site your looking to buy from. I put in my order almost a month ago and have seen nothing with no answers to emails or phone calls. Over 40 pages of negative reviews I wish I would have seen before I placed my order. That's a high dollar item your looking to buy.

I got my stuff just fine...

 

[Loodachris]

Tried to edit my post and fix my mistake but someone already replied to it so I'll say it again my mistake I had web sites mixed up when I made my comment and should of just moved on.

 

[Handsaw]

P-J you always use 2 one watt one ohm resistors to ground in the emergency off circuit. Why is that?

 

[TheBrewinator]

I had a question about the diagram of the 30A 5500W single element with PID and no pump since this is the kind of setup I am going to want to use since I have a separate plug for my pump.

I noticed it uses a switch instead of a contactor. Is the reason for this because you only need the switch to control power to the element instead of the element and pump or is there another reason? Thanks.

 

[P-J]

P-J you always use 2 one watt one ohm resistors to ground in the emergency off circuit. Why is that?

The resistors are 1,000 ohm units (1K ohm 1 watt resistors).
They are there to provide a very small leakage current to trip the GFCI breaker and completely power the brew controller down when the E-Stop is pressed.

P-J

 

[P-J]

I had a question about the diagram of the 30A 5500W single element with PID and no pump since this is the kind of setup I am going to want to use since I have a separate plug for my pump.

I noticed it uses a switch instead of a contactor. Is the reason for this because you only need the switch to control power to the element instead of the element and pump or is there another reason? Thanks.

I drew it that way as I was able to source a switch that could be used in a 25A 240V circuit. Using a contactor and a different switch would have been more costly.

It most certainly could be done if the builder does not like the appearance of the switch that I chose.
P-J

 

[TheBrewinator]

Perfect, thanks for the reply P-J. I don't care what it looks like, I just want it to be functional. I'll probably add the light in like the same drawing for the 4500W element scheme to indicate when I switch the element on.

 

[djdixon1995]

You referennce a diagram. Which one?

P-J

This is the diagram I used.