• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I like the idea of using a knob to control the boil vs. a PID's manual-mode much like HighGravity's EBC SV with Infinite Power Control.

I'm looking for guidance on using a SSVR in P-J's "Single Element BIAB 30A PID" circuit?

I think I'd need to use a PID with Relay output (2342?) and I'd need to move the SSVR between the contactor and element.

Would this allow the PID to drive the contactor for temperature controlled mashing?

I believe I'd also need a 3-way switch that would allow the contactor to be energized by either the PID (for mashing), Manual (for boil), or Off.

The SSVR knob would be set to 100% for the mash and adjusted accordingly to control the boil.

Thanks in advance
:mug:
 
Seems I can't find a 1500w 240v LWD heating element so the next best thing is a 2000w LWD element for my rims tube. Would I still be able to run both elements using this wiring design here? Also would there be a way to run rotary switches instead of toggle switches and if so could someone link me to some please. Thanks in advance



Auberin-wiring1-a13-SYL-2352-4500w-RIMS by Ludahchris, on Flickr
 
Hello,
I just thought that I would share the diagram that P-J did for my custom build with the hope that others may benefit from it as we'll.

image.jpg
 
Here is the control panel to go with it. It is not wired yet because I decided to add pilot lights and use 30Amp supply rather than 50Amp so I will need to view other diagrams to make these changes. Thanks again P-J.

image.jpg
 
P-J,

We are building a 30 gallon 3 vessel E-HERMS system and could use some help laying out the controls. The HLT and BK both have 2 - 5500w elements and we are thinking that we would like to able to operate 2 HLT, 1 HLT+1 BK, or 2 BK simultaneously. Trying to keep the total load under 60A 220V. We are going to use a BCS-462 controller but we like the auto/manual option you have incorporated into other designs. Additionally, we have two 120V pumps (separate water and wort). We plan to have a touch screen mounted on the panel for BCS control and temp/time readout.
 
First, I just want to say awed I am with the generosity of P-J, The number of drawing, the time spent thinking about all of the considerations for each of the systems. There needs to be an award for someone who has contributed so much. Thank you.

Also, to have all of the drawings on a single page is mind bending. When I found the page I had a very narrow focus on what I thought I wanted. After seeing all of the drawings, which represent very different systems, I am now considering adding a sub-panel to my house so I don't have to be restricted by power.

I am not thinking of building a big system, but I want to be sure to not cut corners so next year I am not doing what I'm doing now. I will be ditching my propane system for an electric one.

I currently brew 2.5 gallon batches, but I do many of them. I usually have 8 or more different beers available at a time so the system needs to be easier to setup and clean. I started thinking I would build a recirculating eBIAB system, but now I might just build a more traditional 3 kettle system with a herms coil. I need to spend some time understanding the value add, other then the fun of building it, of the traditional mash process over the BIAB process before I commit to one.

This is an awesome page full of so many options, Thank you P-J for all of your work.
 
Been a long time since I posted here because I kind of gave up on the idea of going electric. Well now I'm back too it!

Does anyone know of a diagram that PJ might have made that replicates the EBC III Design from High Gravity?

I'm going to start off using 3 vessel and w/ cooler mash tun and no HERMS but want to ability to expand to a HERMS setup. I like the variable control knob on this unit for the boil, and the 2nd PID controlling the pump power for the HERMS unit.
 
Hi I was wondering if anybody has a diagram for a 50 amp 2 5500 elements a 2000 rims 1 timer 3 pid 2 plugs for pumps ? Also maybe even a list of what to purchase? Thanks
 
I was looking for the same type of drawing as Rowdy. 2 5500W elements for Boil & HLT, 1 2000W RIMS; 3 PID's and 1 timer. Thanks,
 
Hi I was wondering if anybody has a diagram for a 50 amp 2 5500 elements a 2000 rims 1 timer 3 pid 2 plugs for pumps ? Also maybe even a list of what to purchase? Thanks
I've not made a diagram for what you describe. I've done one without the timer though. I will come up with one, just give me a couple of days to draw it for you.

Something to keep in mind. You are planning on 2 - 5500W elements & a 2000W element. That is a total of 13000W running on 240V. That ends up being a possible draw of 55A plus the control circuits and pumps. You might need to have a 240V 60A feed (plus a 60A Spa Panel from HomeDepot) to power your rig.

P-J
 
P-J said:
I've not made a diagram for what you describe. I've done one without the timer though. I will come up with one, just give me a couple of days to draw it for you. Something to keep in mind. You are planning on 2 - 5500W elements & a 2000W element. That is a total of 13000W running on 240V. That ends up being a possible draw of 55A plus the control circuits and pumps. You might need to have a 240V 60A feed (plus a 60A Spa Panel from HomeDepot) to power your rig. P-J
Do a 1500w I've already run 50 amp spa. Thanks
 
Do a 1500w I've already run 50 amp spa. Thanks
I think you will be hard pressed to find a 240V 1500W element. Plus it will still be over the total or your 50A feed. I suggest that you consider 2-4500W element and the 2000 element. With that config your draw is under 50A.

Just saying...
 
P-J said:
I think you will be hard pressed to find a 240V 1500W element. Plus it will still be over the total or your 50A feed. I suggst that you consider 2-4500W element and the 2000 element. With that config your draw is under 50A. Just saying...
Okay thanks.
 
PJ if I drop to 4500W elements would it affect boil time much. If I did that the current draw would be 46 amps. Would it be better to go to a lower wattage RIMS element? Thanks, Joe
 
Okay thanks.
Talk more about your desired process flow. You will never need all three on at the same time.
PJ if I drop to 4500W elements would it affect boil time much. If I did that the current draw would be 46 amps. Would it be better to go to a lower wattage RIMS element? Thanks, Joe

I completed the diagram today. The configuration is set up with 2-5500W and a 2000W RIMS element. (BTW You would have a difficult time securing a lower wattage RIMS element.) The system, depending on your brewing process, can be used that way. You would just need to use the BOIL element independently as you brew. You also could change the 2 5500W elements to 4500W elements if your intent was to do back to back brew sessions where you would need the HLT, RIM & BOIL at the same time.

Anyway - as always - click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I hope this helps you in your adventure.

P-J
 
I am planning to start acquiring the necessary parts to start my electric build. I was thinking that the 50a 5500 2 element 2 pump 2 PID looks the closest to what I would like to do. However, I am a little uncertain what a couple of the parts are. What are the parts between the Contactor at the element and the PID’s, not the switches but the other parts? Also, the Contactor is listed as “240V – 30A 120 V Coil”. Are they the Auber CN-PBC302-120V?
 
I am planning to start acquiring the necessary parts to start my electric build. I was thinking that the 50a 5500 2 element 2 pump 2 PID looks the closest to what I would like to do. However, I am a little uncertain what a couple of the parts are. What are the parts between the Contactor at the element and the PID’s, not the switches but the other parts? Also, the Contactor is listed as “240V – 30A 120 V Coil”. Are they the Auber CN-PBC302-120V?
The part you are referencing is a SSR. Here is a LINK to it from Auber Instruments.

The contactors are the ones you referenced.

P-J
 
The part you are referencing is a SSR. Here is a LINK to it from Auber Instruments.

The contactors are the ones you referenced.

P-J

Thank you so much. Is there a temperature sensor/thermocouple sensor you would recommend? I was planning on putting them outside the ball valve on the pots like Kal and not in the side of the pot.
 
Thank you so much. Is there a temperature sensor/thermocouple sensor you would recommend? I was planning on putting them outside the ball valve on the pots like Kal and not in the side of the pot.
Auber Instruments has several different types and sizes available. Here are 2 deluxe probes as a reference:
Liquid tight RTD sensor, 4 in, 1/4 NPT
And
Liquid Tight RTD Sensor, 4” probe, Weldless Fitting

You have lots of options from their available products. RTD (PLT) Sensors

Hope this helps.

P-J
 
PJ, Thanks so much. I intend on doing single 10 gallon batches right now, but wanted the possibility of back to back batches. It seemed like a better option to look at the needs I would have in the future, and buy & build once.

Bobby, thanks for your input. I was thinking of the process, not in the present; but for future growth.

Thanks again,
Joe
 
If I decided step up to use 2500w a 5500w element on my 30 amp 240v wiring setup instead of a 1500w and a 4500w element and only use one element at a time will it still be safe to use this wiring diagram or would I have to change something around?
You could do that but I'd suggest that you interlock the setup so that you can not energize both elements at the same time.
 
Thanks for the reply PJ. Because of you and your drawing I have ordered and received about 90% of all my parts needed with more on the way and will be building my RIMS system on my 2 week vacation next week! One more question though, what size wire would be ok to use from the ssr to the pid? If 10g is needed then how would you wire up the connection to the pid since the screws and space are so small.
 
Thanks for the reply PJ. Because of you and your drawing I have ordered and received about 90% of all my parts needed with more on the way and will be building my RIMS system on my 2 week vacation next week! One more question though, what size wire would be ok to use from the ssr to the pid? If 10g is needed then how would you wire up the connection to the pid since the screws and space are so small.

You are on an exciting adventure. I wish you the best success.

The wiring plan: Use stranded wire for all of your setup. Use #10 for the input to your controller. The ciruits to the elements should be #12. The circuits to the pumps and PID power can be #14. The lines from the PID outputs to the SSRs and flash buzzer can be fairly small as the current draw there is very small (Less than an amp each), perhaps #16 or #18.

I hope this helps you. Also, if you need other info or changes to your plan please le me know.

P-J
 
I guess that explains why the screws and slots are so small on the PID's. Once again I thank you and I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way here soon. A little overwhelming right now but it will all fall in place once I get started. I don't really understand how the interlock works and how it would work in my system so I'll just make sure to only power on one element at a time.
 
I guess that explains why the screws and slots are so small on the PID's. Once again I thank you and I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way here soon. A little overwhelming right now but it will all fall in place once I get started. I don't really understand how the interlock works and how it would work in my system so I'll just make sure to only power on one element at a time.

If needed, I can adjust the diagram to include an interlock or any other changes that you might need or want.

Just saying. I think this old man can wrap my head around your plan.

(LOL)

P-J
 
Back
Top