List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

[Erbe]

I am getting ready to do PJs 50a 5500 2 Element 2 outlet 2 PID system, I seen one of your schematics with a timer? do you have a drawing for this??

 

[P-J]

I am getting ready to do PJs 50a 5500 2 Element 2 outlet 2 PID system, I seen one of your schematics with a timer? do you have a drawing for this??

How about some references (links) to the things you are referring to and a little more detail on what you are trying to accomplish. What are you looking for? Help me help you.

P-J

 

[P-J]

I am getting ready to do PJs 50a 5500 2 Element 2 outlet 2 PID system, I seen one of your schematics with a timer? do you have a drawing for this??

How about some references (links) to the things you are referring to and a little more detail on what you are trying to accomplish. What are you looking for? Help me help you.

P-J

What base diagram are you referencing. I can help you but need more info from you. I'm sure that I already have a diagram drawn but need to know the base that you reference.

??????

 

[sweetcell]

hello P-J,

I am looking to build the following PID system. it's a very simple one and i suspect that you have already made a diagram for it... however i haven't been able to identify it yet.

- single RIMS tube. no HLT to BK controls, i use propane for those.
- 120V heating element (1500 watts)
- single PID
- 2 pumps, with ability to turn them on/off via the panel. pumps run continuously so no need to control them via the PID. on/off indicator lights would be nice.
- EStop

i believe that this diagram is very close: http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-2000w-BIAB-120V-A.jpg

once again: many thanks for your help!

 

[P-J]

hello P-J,

I am looking to build the following PID system. it's a very simple one and i suspect that you have already made a diagram for it... however i haven't been able to identify it yet.

- single RIMS tube. no HLT to BK controls, i use propane for those.
- 120V heating element (1500 watts)
- single PID
- 2 pumps, with ability to turn them on/off via the panel. pumps run continuously so no need to control them via the PID. on/off indicator lights would be nice.
- EStop

i believe that this diagram is very close: http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-2000w-BIAB-120V-A.jpg

once again: many thanks for your help!

Here is a diagram that I just finished for you as I did not have one that really fit your description. I hope it matches your needs.

And as always - click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



I hope this helps you in your adventure.

P-J

 

[sweetcell]

Here is a diagram that I just finished for you as I did not have one that really fit your description. I hope it matches your needs.

I hope this helps you in your adventure.

P-J

p-j,

i am humbled by your generosity. not only did you design exactly what i had in mind, you threw in several extras (like making sure the element can only fire if the pump is running) that i hadn't thought of.

this is a great design. i'm sure i'll have questions as soon as i get down to building it... in the meantime you have my sincerest thanks.

off to start my adventure!

 

[P-J]

Sweetcell,

You are more than welcome.

P-J

 

[Bartp]

I'm going to give this thread a bump. this does not deserve to be on second page, rather should be in the sticky section.

P-J, you're a hero. Your knowledge is absolutely priceless!

I was wondering if I can run some things by you, P-J, and others on here. I'm slowly putting together a kit to automate my BIAB brewing. My current setup is a 10 gallon pot that sits over two electric stove top elements. I can get 8 gal of wort boiling no problem, but I'm thinking of putting an electric element to control mash temp better and get to boil quicker.

here's what I have so far:

1x 5500w camco element which I'm planning to use with 120v. 1375w should be plenty to maintain mash temp and be safe for 15amp outlet (right?)
1x SYL-2352 PID
1x 40amp SSR
1x K type thermocouple
1x 12v high temp 108gal mini pump which I use to recalculate the wort during mash. (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XZAJ3I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20)

The whole setup does not have to be anything fancy, no real need for on/off switches other then pump switch(12v), unless there are good (safety) reasons for it. I would like to have an e-stop button tho.

I'm looking for the best way to hook all of this up together.

Thanks in advance!

 

[P-J]

...
I was wondering if I can run some things by you, P-J, and others on here.
...
1x 5500w camco element which I'm planning to use with 120v. 1375w should be plenty to maintain mash temp and be safe for 15amp outlet (right?)
1x SYL-2352 PID
1x 40amp SSR
1x K type thermocouple
1x 12v high temp 108gal mini pump which I use to recalculate the wort during mash. (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XZAJ3I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20)
...
...

The element selection is Ok along with the PID and the SSR. I'd suggest that you choose a Liquid Tight RTD Sensor from Auber Instruments. They are easier to mount and a lot more accurate.

The pump is throwing me a huge curve ball as it is a 12V DC unit. I do not know what the amp draw on it would be so matching a power supply for it becomes an issue. Do you have any idea??? Why not select a 120V AC pump?

I'd be more than pleased to draw up a diagram for you.

Help me help you.

P-J

 

[Bartp]

you're the best P-J. The pump is a 12v dc. Currently it's running on a 1000mA cell phone charger. This little pump been working great for me, since I'm a BIAB brewer I just want to recirc the wort so 100 gpm is way more than enough for me. I was thinking of just adding an extension cord into the control panel box, attaching the power supply to it and just splice an on/off toggle. No need to overcomplicated anything if it makes it easier, we can skip the pump altogether from the wiring.

 

[mrwizard0]

You could just have an outlet like most other setup and just plug the cell phone charger into that. The switch could still be on the panel that way

 

[Spellman]

I'm currently using a similar small 12v pump. I'm thinking about trying one of these in the panel:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-AC-to-DC-12V-2A-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-for-LED-Strip-Light-/171115684580?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d74a22e4

The consensus seems to be that these pumps work best with a 1.5A to 2A supply to them, would this be a simple solution that would work? I'm handy with electronics and some electrical work, but by no means an expert.

 

[Bartp]

That's a cool find Spellman. It's basically a regular power supply without the plastic casing or wires. Just wire it yourself.

And also you're right. I took a better look at the power supply I'm using, and it is a 2 amp supply. 1amp might not have enough juice to power the pump.

 

[Spellman]

I can't take all the credit for the find, there has been a lot of trial and error on this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/cheap-compact-wort-pump-375904/ concerning these pumps, and someone else found it. I don't think these pumps use the whole 2A, but it has been speculated that they run much better with a little head room for power. I plan to build a panel this fall and incorporate 2 of these pumps into it, until I can afford a couple ss chuggers. It looks like this 12v supply will be the easiest way to incorporate them, and maybe just throw a switch on them. I'm guessing I'll need to come back and run my plans by everyone here when it gets closer to that time, as what I'm thinking about doing is slightly different than some of the plans on here. This thread has helped me envision what I can and want to do, so thanks everyone!

 

[Jem]

For the Flash buzzer and the on off switch-

my on off switch for the buzzer does not have the numbers 22 21 12 11, it has 1 2 3 4
just not sure what to wire it to?

Thanks

Has anyone used the auber sw9-110 illuminated maintained switch with the sw2451 pid? I'm having trouble wiring it properly.

PJ Your diagrams are awesome, just finishing my second control panel based on your design. Thank you very much.

 

[Inkleg]

First, PJ if you are still following this thread, Thank You on my behalf and all others you have helped and made safe through your diagrams.

Through all the information gathered here I have started an electric build.
Most of it is based on the first 30A PID BIAB diagram on page one.
From other information gathered here I have added a timer and 3 way alarm switch for the PID and timer. I believe I've added everything right, but just want to be sure and safe.

If you could find it in your gracious nature to post a diagram (you may have already done one that I haven't found). So that my electrical challenged brain can see it in 11x17 this is how it's correctly done no questions ask wonder. I would be grateful and feel much safer.

I'm to this stage in the build, but work has slowed me down, so no wiring has been done yet. The E-Stop is mounted on top.

Thank You in advance.

Jeff

 

[Loodachris]

I am having a hard time sourcing a 240v 30a toggle switch which is part of the parts list on one of the diagrams posted here. Is anyone using one in their build and if so could you please tell me where to get a couple? I have found 240v 10a toggle switch but the diagram shows a 30a switch.

This is the diagram I am trying to follow

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a13-SYL-2352-4500w-RIMS.jpg

Thanks for the help

 

[jeffmeh]

Here you go. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...ble-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941

I did not look at the diagram, but this should do. Many use lower rated switches to activate a 30a contactor, but for simple and cheap this should work great.

 

[Loodachris]

Thanks for the reply. I thought about using a standard light switch but since I need 2 switches and my box is a bit smaller I will run out of room. I really don't know much about electrical but the ones I am seeing as far as toggle switches are 240v but only 10A could someone tell me why it must be a 30A switch?

 

[jeffmeh]

The switch needs to be rated high enough for the current draw of the element. The diagram you are using shows a 1500w RIMS tube and 4500w boil kettle.

These switches are only 25a but will safely work for that application. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NKK-Toggle-Switch-2TPF6?Pid=search

 

[Loodachris]

There we go thanks for the link. What if I had to step up to a 2000w or 3000w heating element would that switch still work you think?

 

[P-J]

I am having a hard time sourcing a 240v 30a toggle switch which is part of the parts list on one of the diagrams posted here. Is anyone using one in their build and if so could you please tell me where to get a couple? I have found 240v 10a toggle switch but the diagram shows a 30a switch.

This is the diagram I am trying to follow

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a13-SYL-2352-4500w-RIMS.jpg

Thanks for the help

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/S821/360-2096-ND/1007153
Digikey changed the part numbers on their site. The linked switch is rated for 30A @ 250V when used with resistive loads like the heating element application that we use.

Here is the PDF file with the details of that switch series. http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/stoggleshighcap.pdf

I hope this helps you.

P-J

 

[emjay]

There we go thanks for the link. What if I had to step up to a 2000w or 3000w heating element would that switch still work you think?

Not if you want to be able to use both elements simultaneously.

 

[P-J]

Not if you want to be able to use both elements simultaneously.

That is not an issue. The posted diagram uses a seperate switch for each element.

 

[Loodachris]

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/S821/360-2096-ND/1007153

Probably missing something here but the specs show 125V 30A is this the right one?

 

[P-J]

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/S821/360-2096-ND/1007153

Probably missing something here but the specs show 125V 30A is this the right one?

Yes. You missed the link to the pdf file where it clearly states that the switch is rated for 30A @ 250V when a "Resistive load" is used.

 

[Loodachris]

I see. I guess I need to slow down and do a little more reading before I jump to asking questions. Thanks again for all your help and without your wiring diagram I found I would be at a total loss.

 

[P-J]

I see. I guess I need to slow down and do a little more reading before I jump to asking questions. Thanks again for all your help and without your wiring diagram I found I would be at a total loss.

Emphasis >

...reading before I jump to asking questions.

That is NEVER a problem. If we cannot talk back and forth we are all in deep trouble. Actually you helped me with the discovery that the vendor changed his product name/link.

Also, the PDF file can be a little difficult to interpret completely.

I'm just very glad that I am able to help you. Wishing you the very best.

P-J

 

[Loodachris]

Actually one more question please. Using your diagram here P-J http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a13-SYL-2352-4500w-RIMS.jpg would I be able to use both elements and run a pump at the same time on a 30A breaker? If not what would I have to do to make this happen? I think I have enough space in my breaker box to run 2 30A breakers if needed

 

[P-J]

Actually one more question please. Using your diagram here P-J http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a13-SYL-2352-4500w-RIMS.jpg would I be able to use both elements and run a pump at the same time on a 30A breaker? If not what would I have to do to make this happen? I think I have enough space in my breaker box to run 2 30A breakers if needed

You would have no problem running both elements and a pump at the same time.

P-J