List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

[BigDog007]

Thank you P-J!

I am going to try and build it myself but have one of my electricians at the plant I work for look it over to make sure I'm using all of the right parts.

I've worked in food manufacturing for a while and I've seen a lot of these items used but have never done so myself. Trying to spec. out a parts list now so I can determine cost and get started.

I'm hoping I can purchase the right items first...

Thanks again!

RP

P-J,

Another question, will this same design support a 5500w element instead of the listed 4500w? The only reason I ask is because it's actually a little cheaper (not significantly) so I figured I may as well ask.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw--Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424568488&sr=8-1&keywords=camco+5500w

 

[P-J]

P-J,

Another question, will this same design support a 5500w element instead of the listed 4500w? The only reason I ask is because it's actually a little cheaper (not significantly) so I figured I may as well ask.

Quick answer is Yes. You are very close to the calculated limit but it will work for you.

P-J

 

[BigDog007]

Awesome! Thanks P-J!

 

[BigDog007]

P-J,

I've been putting together my parts list all night and believe it or not I've made great progress! I am, however, running into a bit of an issue locating a 30A 240v DPST toggle or any on/off switch that I think will work for that matter. The original part # referenced in the diagram you made doesn't come up anymore. Just for good measure I thought I would list my parts list and was hoping you might chime in with a suggestion or tell me I'm crazy...

Auburn Instruments:
2 - SYL-2352 PID's
2 - 40A SSR
1 - Wall Mount Box w/ 2 cutouts for PID's
1 - E-Stop Switch
1 - Weldless RTD for brew kettle
1 - 1/2" NPT RTD for RIMS tube
1 - Flashing Buzzer

Amazon:
-Ordered everything for my RIMS and brew kettle element build
2 - 15A 120v Start/Stop Switches for pumps
2 - 15A 120v On/Off Switches (1 for PID's and 1 for Buzzer)

Missing:
-1 15a fast blow fuse (need to find this)
-2 1a fast blow fues (need to find these)
-2 1k ohm 1 watt resisters (need to find these)

Missing and panicking about:
2 - 30A 240v kill switches (1 for RIMS, 1 for Boil Element)
**NOTE** - I've looked everywhere and I've found quite a bit of information on multiple brew forums with people running into the same issue, am I overthinking these or is it really that hard to find these?

I originally was looking for on/off selector switches for everything, then I started finding various ones that had "start/stop" which seemed applicable to the pumps, green led light toggles which I used for the PID power and buzzer, just can't find the ones listed above.

I'm linking to the drawing, any feedback would be great. I plan on purchasing all that remains over the next couple days, can't wait to start building this thing.

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a13-SYL-2352-4500w-RIMS.jpg

 

[P-J]

BigDog007,

Here is the link to the switches.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/S821/360-2096-ND/1007153

P-J

 

[BigDog007]

BigDog007,

Here is the link to the switches.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/S821/360-2096-ND/1007153

P-J

Thanks P-J, Definitely the most expensive switch in the group but it'll be worth it if they work.

RP

 

[Namako]

Many, MANY thanks to all who have contributed so much to this thread (and others), and certainly a very special shout-out to P-J!! And hey, Kal, my retirement savings and my daughter's college fund still all HATE you!

I've read all 65 pages, and I got more than a little excited on page 45 (#449) where Hunky asked something that was pretty close to my question, but by the next page he appeared to go another direction. Obviously from the length of this thread, there are hundreds of permutations in how to wire up a control panel, so here's mine.

I have three 20-gallon kettles and I brew 10 gallon batches. I'd like to be able to brew back-to-back on the weekends my SWMBO lets me have my man-card back, if not back-to-back-to-back, so I will certainly need to run both the HLT and BK heater elements simultaneously, as well as the element in the RIMS.

I need a panel that brings in 2 each 30A/240V circuits to independently power the HLT and BK Blichmann BoilCoils (5000W/240V), and 2 each 20A/120V circuits, one to power a BCS-462 (differing from the BCS-460 only in the number of inputs [2X] and outputs [3X]), three March pumps, and the 5VDC and 12VDC transformers to power the valves, lights, relay boards; and the other circuit dedicated to powering just the RIMS (2000W/120V). The electrical outlets have already been pulled to the brew area in the garage (one is just the 20A/120V circuit that services the entire garage, and will power the BCS/pumps). The others are GFCI-protected circuits pulled from the main panel by a licensed electrician.

I was going to use several of P-J's electrical drawings, and just treat my system as if I had three simple one-element systems, with the BCS-462 substituted in for the PIDs. Besides needing more space for all the electrical components, I think it's pretty straight-forward - again, thanks to P-J!!

One of my concerns is the e-stop, as that might get a little tricky - I don't want to have to hit three of them, so maybe something in parallel? Thoughts?

More importantly, is there something I'm missing in combining all of this together?? I think the SSRs and contactors are going to keep all the electrons in their respective cages, and the BCS-462 behind them doesn't really care where all the power is coming from, right?

Finally, how did the collective effort to get P-J's computer upgraded to the 21st Century go? I have a few $$$ burning a hole in my pocket, and I'd love to contribute!

 

[jeffmeh]

Many, MANY thanks to all who have contributed so much to this thread (and others), and certainly a very special shout-out to P-J!! And hey, Kal, my retirement savings and my daughter's college fund still all HATE you!

I've read all 65 pages, and I got more than a little excited on page 45 (#449) where Hunky asked something that was pretty close to my question, but by the next page he appeared to go another direction. Obviously from the length of this thread, there are hundreds of permutations in how to wire up a control panel, so here's mine.

I have three 20-gallon kettles and I brew 10 gallon batches. I'd like to be able to brew back-to-back on the weekends my SWMBO lets me have my man-card back, if not back-to-back-to-back, so I will certainly need to run both the HLT and BK heater elements simultaneously, as well as the element in the RIMS.

I need a panel that brings in 2 each 30A/240V circuits to independently power the HLT and BK Blichmann BoilCoils (5000W/240V), and 2 each 20A/120V circuits, one to power a BCS-462 (differing from the BCS-460 only in the number of inputs [2X] and outputs [3X]), three March pumps, and the 5VDC and 12VDC transformers to power the valves, lights, relay boards; and the other circuit dedicated to powering just the RIMS (2000W/120V). The electrical outlets have already been pulled to the brew area in the garage (one is just the 20A/120V circuit that services the entire garage, and will power the BCS/pumps). The others are GFCI-protected circuits pulled from the main panel by a licensed electrician.

I was going to use several of P-J's electrical drawings, and just treat my system as if I had three simple one-element systems, with the BCS-462 substituted in for the PIDs. Besides needing more space for all the electrical components, I think it's pretty straight-forward - again, thanks to P-J!!

One of my concerns is the e-stop, as that might get a little tricky - I don't want to have to hit three of them, so maybe something in parallel? Thoughts?

More importantly, is there something I'm missing in combining all of this together?? I think the SSRs and contactors are going to keep all the electrons in their respective cages, and the BCS-462 behind them doesn't really care where all the power is coming from, right?

Finally, how did the collective effort to get P-J's computer upgraded to the 21st Century go? I have a few $$$ burning a hole in my pocket, and I'd love to contribute!

If I understand correctly, you will have 4 independent circuits, 2@240v, 2@120v as input into the panel. Why that rather than, say, one 60a, 120v/240v input? Your method will certainly work, and rather than trying to build an e-stop to trip 4 separate GFCIs, why not run all those hot inputs through a set of contactors that you could switch on and off, as a main shutoff for the entire panel? You could use an e-stop mushroom for it, if that matters to you. Sounds like fun, regardless.

 

[Namako]

If I understand correctly, you will have 4 independent circuits, 2@240v, 2@120v as input into the panel. Why that rather than, say, one 60a, 120v/240v input? Your method will certainly work, and rather than trying to build an e-stop to trip 4 separate GFCIs, why not run all those hot inputs through a set of contactors that you could switch on and off, as a main shutoff for the entire panel? You could use an e-stop mushroom for it, if that matters to you. Sounds like fun, regardless.

The primary reason for my going this route was the significant cost and lower availability of electrical components once you go above 240V/30A.

I had been thinking of stacking four N.O. contacts on the main power selector, and running each of the power lines through them, and that may be the best route to take.

 

[jeffmeh]

The primary reason for my going this route was the significant cost and lower availability of electrical components once you go above 240V/30A.

I had been thinking of stacking four N.O. contacts on the main power selector, and running each of the power lines through them, and that may be the best route to take.

You only need to run one 120v hot and neutral to a N.O. 120v switch, to a 120v coil for the contactor, then have all 6 hot lines run through the contactor. There is likely some 240v, 120v coil, 6 line-capable contactor out there, but you could use multiple contactors with the switch running to each coil.

 

[jakwi]

PJ thank you for your wonderful contributions.

I brewed this weekend with my E keggles, Manual mode (plug it in, unplug as necessary) which worked ok for the HLT, but was a relative disaster for the Boil Keggle. I was cycling the plug about once every 45s! I ended up putting it back on propane with a renewed desire to build the control box.

So I've been looking for a diagram that I'm not sure you've created. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

220v system
two pumps (120v)
HLT on a PID
BK on a DSPR1 from Auber
Possibly a separate timer.

Eventually I'll probably turn this into a HERMS system

 

[Namako]

You only need to run one 120v hot and neutral to a N.O. 120v switch, to a 120v coil for the contactor, then have all 6 hot lines run through the contactor. There is likely some 240v, 120v coil, 6 line-capable contactor out there, but you could use multiple contactors with the switch running to each coil.

Whoa!! You might have lost on me on that 6 hot lines through the contactor comment - are you talking about 6 contacts stacked up on a selector switch?

 

[doug293cz]

Whoa!! You might have lost on me on that 6 hot lines through the contactor comment - are you talking about 6 contacts stacked up on a selector switch?

No, you just have to bring one 60A, 240V feed into your panel. Auber (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=439) sells a 2 pole 63A 240V contactor with 120V coil. You can control the contactor coil with a low cost switch. You can add breakers or fuses for the different branches (heaters, pumps, etc.) within the control box.

Edit: Sorry, I missed the part where you already had lower amp circuits already wired. That will make things more complicated in the control box, if you want to run everything from one box.

You could run each power feed thru its own contactor, and control all contactor coils with a main power switch (NO) and mushroom EPO (NC) in series. In this case the EPO won't kill power at the breakers and eliminate all voltage in your control box, but will knock out everything after the contactors. You could also add switches in parallel after the main power and EPO to control each heater contactor separately.

Brew on

 

[jeffmeh]

Whoa!! You might have lost on me on that 6 hot lines through the contactor comment - are you talking about 6 contacts stacked up on a selector switch?

No. One NO switch fed with one 120v that will control the coil of one or more contactors. All hots run through the contactors before they are fed to any loads. Turn switch off and all power to loads is cut. The switches generally aren't rated for sufficient current anyway, but the contactors will be.

Look at Kal's main power switch and contactor. You just have 6 hot lines, where he has 2.

 

[Namako]

I'll have to spend a few minutes pondering that - I'm still trying to visualize it. I guess my initial confusion is on your use of six? I have four power sources, 2 30A/240V, and 2 20A/120V. Is it because I have 2 hots for each 30A/240V circuit?

Time for me to sharpen my pencil and do some doodling on P-J's drawings...

Thanks!!

 

[jeffmeh]

I'll have to spend a few minutes pondering that - I'm still trying to visualize it. I guess my initial confusion is on your use of six? I have four power sources, 2 30A/240V, and 2 20A/120V. Is it because I have 2 hots for each 30A/240V circuit?

Time for me to sharpen my pencil and do some doodling on P-J's drawings...

Thanks!!

No worries. It can be difficult to visualize without a diagram. But yes, 6 hots, 2 per 240v input (x2) plus 1 per 120v input (x2). One 120v, NO switch. One contactor coil ( or many wired in parallel) from the switch. Each hot running through the contactor (s).

Here's Kal's page. Look at the power relay and try to visualize either 3 of them wired in parallel from the switch, or a relay capable of running 6 lines. The picture doesn't show the second hot from the 240v input, but that runs through 2 on the relay. I hope this helps.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=7

 

[Rivenin]

The switch is a double pole single throw unit. The illustration is one I had handy at the time I drew the diagram. If you check out the switch wiring it is only using one set of primary contacts.

Hope this makes sense.

BTW the switch is this one http://www.grainger.com/product/NKK-Toggle-Switch-2TPF6

P-J

OH i got you now the digram with 4 at the top confused me a good bit! thanks!

 

[Namako]

Jeffmeh,

Got it!! That makes sense... I think. I hope I don't blow my new-found enthusiasm with the next couple of questions.

When wiring up each of the four Power In Relays to the Power key switch, I’m betting that I will be coming into the contact on the power switch using a single wire from either the #1 OR #2 terminal on the 240V power relays, which one matters not (e.g., 1 wire from each relay)? That second coil terminal on the right side of the Power In Relay is still confusing me, as is the DPDT discussion below the diagram. I’m assuming that as long as ONE of the coils is powered with 120V (through the key switch), and the other coil is connected to neutral, it really doesn’t matter which coil terminal I use for which purpose. BOTH terminals will close.

Of course, that second terminal (#2) on the Power In Relay needs to be getting power from the other hot line in the 30A/240V receptacle (labeled “X” in a later drawing).

If this is correct, then it sounds like I should have a stack of four NO contacts on the power key switch; each contact receiving 120V power from each of the Power In receptacles (2 x 30A/240V, 2 x 20A/120V) and then running back to one of the coil terminals on each of the respective Power In Relays (2 x 30A/240V, 2 x 20A/120V). Which coil terminal I use appears to be is unimportant. The opposite coil terminal however, then connects to a common neutral.

When the key switch is activated, 120V flows through all four contacts, simultaneously closing the contactors in all four of the Power In Relays, sending power to the respective areas of the control panel.

Am I anywhere near being on base?

 

[doug293cz]

Jeffmeh,

Got it!! That makes sense... I think. I hope I don't blow my new-found enthusiasm with the next couple of questions.

When wiring up each of the four Power In Relays to the Power key switch, I’m betting that I will be coming into the contact on the power switch using a single wire from either the #1 OR #2 terminal on the 240V power relays, which one matters not (e.g., 1 wire from each relay)? That second coil terminal on the right side of the Power In Relay is still confusing me, as is the DPDT discussion below the diagram. I’m assuming that as long as ONE of the coils is powered with 120V (through the key switch), and the other coil is connected to neutral, it really doesn’t matter which coil terminal I use for which purpose. BOTH terminals will close.

Of course, that second terminal (#2) on the Power In Relay needs to be getting power from the other hot line in the 30A/240V receptacle (labeled “X” in a later drawing).

If this is correct, then it sounds like I should have a stack of four NO contacts on the power key switch; each contact receiving 120V power from each of the Power In receptacles (2 x 30A/240V, 2 x 20A/120V) and then running back to one of the coil terminals on each of the respective Power In Relays (2 x 30A/240V, 2 x 20A/120V). Which coil terminal I use appears to be is unimportant. The opposite coil terminal however, then connects to a common neutral.

When the key switch is activated, 120V flows through all four contacts, simultaneously closing the contactors in all four of the Power In Relays, sending power to the respective areas of the control panel.

Am I anywhere near being on base?

Assuming you are going to be using separate GFCI's on each of the four incoming circuits, then you need to make sure that all current in each circuit is balanced, or you will have problems with the GFCI's tripping. It only takes a few milliamps of imbalance between hot and neutral in a 120 circuit to trip a GFCI. 240 volt circuits are a little more complicated in that currents in Line1, Line2 and neutral must balance out.

Inside your control box, you will need six hot buses and 4 neutral buses.

• Two hot buses and one neutral bus for 240V circuit 1
• Two hot buses and one neutral bus for 240V circuit 2
• One hot bus and one neutral bus for 120V circuit 1
• One hot bus and one neutral bus for 120V circuit 2

For any device, the neutral must connect to the bus which is paired with the hot connection(s) for that device.

If you don't understand this, you are likely to have severe problems debugging you control panel and getting things to work.

Brew on

 

[Namako]

Doug293cz,

I'm happy to say "That makes sense!!"

I was planning on keeping all of the electrons for each circuit separate in the control box, especially since only one of the circuits will be multipurposed - the 120V/20A circuit that powers up the BCS-462, pumps, valves, AC/DC transformers and the relay boards. The other three circuits are dedicated to running their respective hot water heater elements (HLT, BK, RIMS), so the electronics on those circuits should be simple. The only place where these four circuits will technically "meet" is at the BCS-462, since it will control the SSR/Contactors that drive everything. The "brain" sits electrically behind the SSRs and Contactors, which physically separate the electrons in the other circuits.

Am I getting it, or am I overlooknig something?

Thanks!
Namako

 

[doug293cz]

Doug293cz,

I'm happy to say "That makes sense!!"

I was planning on keeping all of the electrons for each circuit separate in the control box, especially since only one of the circuits will be multipurposed - the 120V/20A circuit that powers up the BCS-462, pumps, valves, AC/DC transformers and the relay boards. The other three circuits are dedicated to running their respective hot water heater elements (HLT, BK, RIMS), so the electronics on those circuits should be simple. The only place where these four circuits will technically "meet" is at the BCS-462, since it will control the SSR/Contactors that drive everything. The "brain" sits electrically behind the SSRs and Contactors, which physically separate the electrons in the other circuits.

Am I getting it, or am I overlooknig something?

Thanks!
Namako

I think you've got the idea. I put together a little schematic for the power input switching that should do what you want to do (if anyone sees any issues, please let me know.)

• Neither of the 240V neutrals make any connections inside the control box
• The neutral for the RIMS heater connects only to the RIMS heater, and nothing else
• A common neutral is used for all pumps and control circuits
• The RIMS power switch must be rated for the full RIMS current, or else replaced by another contactor + switch
• The Main Power switch and EPO can be low current
• The EPO switch must latch in position when pressed
• The SSR control inputs are optically isolated from the power side, so no worries about what connects to them

Let me know if you have questions or comments.

Brew on

 

[cachecruiser]

BigDog007,

Here is the link to the switches.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/S821/360-2096-ND/1007153

P-J

Hi PJ and everyone, thanks for all the great info. I have been looking at all the wiring diagrams and have a quick question. I am going to use the Auberin-wiring1-SYL-2352-5500w with the switch to go between the HLT and the BK. I am thinking of using the SY2352 PID for the HLT tank but would like to use the http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444 for the boil. I hate to ask, but is there anyway if you have time to do a drawing for this? Thanks again, if if you are two busy I will try and figure it out myself.
Thanks Again.

 

[MightyParched]

Forgive me if I missed it after searching thru the 67 pages of information but I am not finding exactly what I am building - which I find hard to believe. I must be getting old Could someone point out where I could find one of P-J's amazing diagrams for this build: (2) 120v boil coils (BK/HLT), (2) chugger pumps, (1) RIMS tube with 120v element, 2 PID (RIMS/HLT), and an Estop.

Also started looking at the brewtroller setup and curious if there would need to be any major upgrades if I were to add this in later when they get back into production? Appreciate your help!

 

[doug293cz]

Forgive me if I missed it after searching thru the 67 pages of information but I am not finding exactly what I am building - which I find hard to believe. I must be getting old Could someone point out where I could find one of P-J's amazing diagrams for this build: (2) 120v boil coils (BK/HLT), (2) chugger pumps, (1) RIMS tube with 120v element, 2 PID (RIMS/HLT), and an Estop.

Also started looking at the brewtroller setup and curious if there would need to be any major upgrades if I were to add this in later when they get back into production? Appreciate your help!

How many watts are each of the heaters, and will you be bringing 240V or 120V into the panel? Will you feed the panel with a single circuit, or multiple circuits? What combinations of the three heaters do you want to be able to run simultaneously?

Brew on

 

[MightyParched]

I do believe the 120v boil coils are 2250w each and I would be running them separately. The rims element I am currently using is 1500 or 1600w. I will be running that and the 1 boil coil in the HLT at the same time. As there is a strong possibility I will be moving in the next few months I am not sure on the status of single or multiple circuits but all of the basement's we have looked at will allow me water and a 240 outlet for power. I am no electrician so I am not sure about single or multiple circuits. Right now in my current rental I have to use multiple circuits for sure but hoping that changes soon! Appreciate your help.

 

[Namako]

I think you've got the idea. I put together a little schematic for the power input switching that should do what you want to do (if anyone sees any issues, please let me know.)

• Neither of the 240V neutrals make any connections inside the control box
• The neutral for the RIMS heater connects only to the RIMS heater, and nothing else
• A common neutral is used for all pumps and control circuits
• The RIMS power switch must be rated for the full RIMS current, or else replaced by another contactor + switch
• The Main Power switch and EPO can be low current
• The EPO switch must latch in position when pressed
• The SSR control inputs are optically isolated from the power side, so no worries about what connects to them

Let me know if you have questions or comments.

Brew on

doug293cz,

Sorry I went dark until now - but it's SUNDAY now!!

The wire diagram looks great! I like the use of one DPDT Contactor taking care of the two 120V circuits - in my head, I was going to keep everything isolated, but I guess there's no reason to do so at the contactor.

I'm contemplating how to modify it to allow for the EPO to cut power to all four circuits simultaneously. Would putting it on Neutral, before the branch to each of the three contactors (bottom left in the diagram), work?

Thanks again for the effort - I am a visual person, so I keep a stock of crayons around the house all the time!!

 

[doug293cz]

doug293cz,

Sorry I went dark until now - but it's SUNDAY now!!

The wire diagram looks great! I like the use of one DPDT Contactor taking care of the two 120V circuits - in my head, I was going to keep everything isolated, but I guess there's no reason to do so at the contactor.

I'm contemplating how to modify it to allow for the EPO to cut power to all four circuits simultaneously. Would putting it on Neutral, before the branch to each of the three contactors (bottom left in the diagram), work?

Thanks again for the effort - I am a visual person, so I keep a stock of crayons around the house all the time!!

The EPO does cut power to all circuits at the contactors simultaneously. The coils of the 240V contactors are powered thru the 120V contactor, so that when the EPO opens the 120V contactor, the 240V contactors also open.

Also, you want to keep the neutrals from each circuit isolated from the neutrals from all the other circuits, or you will have problems with GFCI's tripping. Additionally, power switches should always interrupt the hot line, not the neutral.

I gave up crayons (and pencils) for electrons a long time ago. They erase a lot easier, and the lines are straighter

Brew on

 

[Namako]

Ah ha!! I wasn't following the path all the way through, just looking at the one coil controlling the two separtate 120V circuits.

I also like not having to have a stack of four contacts on the power switch, which was my original thought.

Thanks for the GREAT ideas!!!

 

[Derp]

I just spent several hours reading through this massive and informative thread. Hats off to P-J and the rest for all of the great work.

I haven't found a diagram that exactly matches what I'd like to build, so I'll appreciate any help that anyone can offer.

I'm converting a 3-keggle, 2-pump system from propane to electric. My neighbor used to work as an electrician, so he's going to wire a 240v 50a outlet in my garage. I'd like to use a 240v 5500w heat stick that I'll switch between the HLT and the BK, so that's one PID. I'll keep the temperature probe connected to the HLT and when I move the heat stick to the BK I'll just use the PID on manual.

The biggest difference from the existing diagrams that I've seen is that I'd like to use a 120v 1500w element in the RIMS tube. Existing drawings show 240v RIMS elements, but I'd like to stick with the 120v element that brewhardware.com sells because it's all stainless and won't rust. I'd use a second PID for the RIMS.

I guess I could use the existing designs for a single element 240v and a single element 120v and build separate controllers for the HLT/MLT and RIMS devices, but that seems like a waste of space and money.

Any suggestions?

 

[CulturalNonsense]

I have read these threads so many times, my head is spinning! Thank you so much to everyone for your knowledge, and esp PJ for the diagrams!

I plan on using the diagram below. However, want to ask a question first. Do i need both switches (one for the Element and one for the PID)?

If i can remove the one for the pid, do I still need the fuse on that wire going into the PID if i remove the switch?

 

[doug293cz]

You could connect the PID pin 10 to the output side of switch 1. You should probably put the 1 amp fast blow fuse in that circuit branch.

Brew on

 

[SHvanBommel]

Hello All, I too have read this entire thread without luck. I'm wiring a 2200W 120V element, a 5500W 240V element, two pumps, and two pids. Do I just use the 5500W 2 Pump 2 PID setup and knock one of the hot legs off? Also, why contactor to SSR? Why not put on switch on the 8V or whatever side of the SSR?

 

[jeffmeh]

Also, why contactor to SSR? Why not put on switch on the 8V or whatever side of the SSR?

Because SSRs routinely fail closed (on), and in that case the switching input on the SSR is irrelevant. The switched contactor assures you that off means off.

 

[mainiac]

Ok, I've tried to read through everything here but still have a stupid electrical question . . .
Since the resistors in front of the e-stop are wired in series, couldn't I just use a single 2k/2w resistor?

 

[P-J]

Ok, I've tried to read through everything here but still have a stupid electrical question . . .
Since the resistors in front of the e-stop are wired in series, couldn't I just use a single 2k/2w resistor?

No stupid question.. If you can get a 2k/2w resistor you are in business. No problem at all.

P-J

 

[flyfshrmn98]

P-J or any others, I have looked through most of the thread and haven't been able to find what I need. I am looking for a diagram for a single 4500 or 5500 w element with single PID as well as timer, 1 or 2 pumps with E-stop and key or regular switch main power on. Thanks

 

[BrunDog]

I commend P-J for the efforts of making so many schematics. However, without disrespect to him, in my opinon, several of these diagrams are dangerous. I have not read this whole thread, but in researching schematics for my own system I am building, I came across a few here that I feel should not be built - for example the "30A 5500W 2 Element 2 Pump" on the first page. This system shows 2 5500W elements that can be powered simultaneously (drawing 52A), fed by a 30A circuit.

I would also caution anyone who uses the E-stop to cut power to the system by purposely faulting the GFI breaker - I do not think this is a sound method. Again, this is my opinion.

-BD

 

[thekraken]

I commend P-J for the efforts of making so many schematics. However, without disrespect to him, in my opinon, several of these diagrams are dangerous. I have not read this whole thread, but in researching schematics for my own system I am building, I came across a few here that I feel should not be built - for example the "30A 5500W 2 Element 2 Pump" on the first page. This system shows 2 5500W elements that can be powered simultaneously (drawing 52A), fed by a 30A circuit.

I would also caution anyone who uses the E-stop to cut power to the system by purposely faulting the GFI breaker - I do not think this is a sound method. Again, this is my opinion.

-BD

In the drawing you'r referring to it looks like switch 7 is a selector switch, only allowing power to one element at a time.

 

[P-J]

thekraken,

You have it exactly right.

P-J

 

[Rivenin]

Just wanted to say thanks, again! i followed the dual 120v wiring diagram before. But alas, as i'm in a new house and no easy access to 2 120v outlets.
I wired up the 30a BIAB version (modified the diagram just a bit for the basic switches i had)

Started out with my desk looking like this (did it all during my lunch break)

finished with this (the jumpers are missing for ground and neutral) but this is how it looks.

my garage has the power saver "slowly get brighter bulbs" so it's a dark shot, but you get the idea (P.S. the kettle still has one of the old 1500w elements to plug it for right now while i wait to order a plug)

boiled 5 gallons of water VERY quickly too...

however, the LED i want to come on only when the element is firing. i put it on the contactor on the red wire, but thats still just making the LED come on always when the switch has power. It worked fine on my last setup WITHOUT the contactor - so i think i'm going to put it on the "2" of the SSR and see if that works? unless anyone else has any ideas?