Let's Talk Tubing, Flow Rates, etc...!

[ScubaSteve]

So, as I'm in the process of my stainless rig build, I'm getting interested in flow rates, tubing, etc. as I want the slickest, most capable build possible. I'd be interested in getting opinions....

Which size tubing do you think is best? 3/8", 1/2", or 3/4"?
-Thoughts: I see a lot of people who use 1/2" tubing, but still have issues with full flow. This is probably due to restriction from barb fittings, valves, etc. Do you think going up to 3/4" is a good solution (if you could start from scratch?). I'm considering keeping all my plumbing around 3/4" until I get to my pump, which has a 1/2" outlet.
-How do you think it would affect pump performance, if the inlet is larger than the outlet? FYI, my mag drive pump by design has a 1" center inlet & 1/2" vertical outlet. I imagine it would work better that way, right?

-Those of you that use triclover piping, how have 1 & 1.5" piping treated you? They have a huge ID...that's a lot of juice pumping around. I figure if I'm dealing with 1" triclovers that had an ID of 7/8", I should try to keep it that big everywhere else in my system.....right?

Stainless tubing; welded or seamless?
-Would you have serious issues with deposits using welded tubing?
-Is it inferior in strength?
-Any experience with off-brand swagelok fittings, like Tylok, Ihara, etc.?

Food for thought....discuss amongst yourselves.....

 

[ScubaSteve]

FWIW, I noticed that the Brewmagic only uses 1/2" TC connections, which actually have an ID of 3/8"......

 

[wizardofza]

I originally used 1/2" tubing with 3/8" QDs (mcmaster #6739K64)), and my flow rate ssssuuuuucccckkkkkeed. I then switched over to the garden hose QDs (mcmaster #71095T9) which are 1/2", and everything is great now.

I don't have any flow issues whatsoever anymore.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

FWIW, I noticed that the Brewmagic only uses 1/2" TC connections, which actually have an ID of 3/8"......

I was going to mention but, figured I'd just keep my mouth shut.

The BM also uses a SS liquid rail of 3/8" ID but, 1/2" ID pump connection hoses, IIRC.

 

[ScubaSteve]

I was going to mention but, figured I'd just keep my mouth shut.

The BM also uses a SS liquid rail of 3/8" ID but, 1/2" ID pump connection hoses, IIRC.

So what does the liquid rail do?

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

So what does the liquid rail do?

Recirculation pathway between MLT output, pump, and MLT return. Also connects HLT to MLT or pump depending on valve settings. And includes temp probe at MLT output.

 

[ScubaSteve]

So has the 3/8" ID hampered your flow rate? I.E, how long does it take you to drain your mashtun and/or sparge?

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

So has the 3/8" ID hampered your flow rate? I.E, how long does it take you to drain your mashtun and/or sparge?

Never had an issue. Some have experienced clogs by grain but, they also forced the clog by messing too much with their grain beds.

As to flow, meh, I am in no rush really. I sparge for at least an hour by drastically choking down flows to a trickle. Amid recirc I run the valves full open.

The only thing I do that might answer your question is gravity backfill the MLT from the HLT. To achieve equilibrium it usually takes 2 to 4 minutes to balance from 14 gallons starting. Pumping, I can drain the HLT dry in 2 to 3 minutes from 14 gallons.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Pumping, I can drain the HLT dry in 2 to 3 minutes from 14 gallons.

Hmm....I guess that's pretty quick.....

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

Hmm....I guess that's pretty quick.....

Yeah. Takes twice as long or longer to fill the HLT from a hose.

Crazy, I know.

Of course, I fill slowly to let the filter do it's job.

 

[Catt22]

FWIW, I use all 5/8" I.D. tubing with nylon GHT barbed fittings on my direct fired RIMS. The smallest restrictions are the barb fittings which are 1/2" ID. I wanted high flow rates mostly for fast temp ramp ups and also for the whirlpool chilling through the CFC. I have not measured the actual max flow rate, but it's fairly fast. The high flow rate lets me run the burner at a higher flame level without overheating the wort. It's working very well for me. So, nothing in the circuit is less than 1/2" I.D. including the CFC.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

Ha. Catt22! My son LOVES those wedgies.

 

[Catt22]

Ha. Catt22! My son LOVES those wedgies.

What wedgies? Did I miss something?

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

What wedgies? Did I miss something?

The Boomerang channel has cartoon shorts they call "Wedgies". It's when they show their "Wedgies" that they play Cat 22, here. I see in the youtube below that Cartoon Network has it but, have never seen it on there.




Sorry Scuba.

 

[p-nut]

I started thinking about how the barbed fittings would restrict my flow rates so I started looking at other options. I found king nipples and was wondering if anyone has seen these. They look as though there would be less of a restriction.
http://www.murrayequipment.com/iteminfo.asp?Manuf=DIX&Part=HBS-1/2T

 

[ScubaSteve]

Hmm...those are pretty burly. A little pricey, but they could be useful. How would you hook them up for ease of swapping?

P.s. You said "King Nipples"....hee-hee

 

[Catt22]

LOL...I've never seen the Cat22 cartoons before. I don't have any kids, so my cartoon viewing is somewhat limited. My screen name is simply a blend of my favorite animal coupled with my lucky number and also a nod to the infamous Catch22 which somehow always seems to trap me in whatever I do. I think Murphy has a lot to do with that.

 

[Catt22]

I started thinking about how the barbed fittings would restrict my flow rates so I started looking at other options. I found king nipples and was wondering if anyone has seen these. They look as though there would be less of a restriction.
http://www.murrayequipment.com/iteminfo.asp?Manuf=DIX&Part=HBS-1/2T

The problem I see with those is that you still need a method of connecting them to the equipment. Pipe threads require something to seal the threads and the fine threads make them a PIA to connect and disconnect. That's why I went with the garden hose thread. It's coarser, less likely to cross thread, faster to connect and disconnect and they seal with a gasket. A couple of other plusses is that they don't transfer heat like a metal fitting will and they are dirt cheap. The female fitting is only 69 cents. They can also handle the heat no problem.

I buy them from U.S. Plastics: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=31583&catid=454

 

[p-nut]

I was thinking in terms of a replacement for the standard 1/2" threaded nipple which seams to have a 3/8" inner diameter on the barb side. (At least the ones I ordered from B3 did)

 

[p-nut]

I also notice that my Blinchman disconnects have a bigger inner diameter than the 1/2"npt to barb fittings do.

 

[paledragon]

i'm in the process of replacing my cooler based herms with a keggle based rims. my plan is to go with 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD polypropylene tubing:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5392k41

and polypropylene compression fittings:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5016k456/=5d1wik
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5016k155/=5d1wuh
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5016k755/=5d1x4s

true 1/2" ID all around. easy to cut to length. kind of a hybrid between hard piping and silicone tubing since it's bendable. can handle boiling wort.

i'm just hoping the compression fittings don't suck, but if they can handle 220 psi at ambient, a few psi at mash and boil temps should be no problem.

p.d.

 

[jeffmeh]

i'm in the process of replacing my cooler based herms with a keggle based rims. my plan is to go with 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD polypropylene tubing:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5392k41

and polypropylene compression fittings:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5016k456/=5d1wik
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5016k155/=5d1wuh
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5016k755/=5d1x4s

true 1/2" ID all around. easy to cut to length. kind of a hybrid between hard piping and silicone tubing since it's bendable. can handle boiling wort.

i'm just hoping the compression fittings don't suck, but if they can handle 220 psi at ambient, a few psi at mash and boil temps should be no problem.

p.d.

I have used those compression fittings in a drinking water application. They work pretty well, but they do eventually fail, sooner if they are not connected to something rigid at one end. I really would not be comfortable recommending them for use with hot wort.

 

[paledragon]

I have used those compression fittings in a drinking water application. They work pretty well, but they do eventually fail, sooner if they are not connected to something rigid at one end. I really would not be comfortable recommending them for use with hot wort.

figures...

just when i thought i could abandon silicone tubing and hose barbs.