Leaking gas somewhere…help

[electricd7]

Hello-

I have a kegging system that I have had for years. I had a keg of Guinness on it for over a year. I recently swapped out my keg for a new Guinness keg a couple of weeks ago. In that time I have went through the rest of the gas in my 20cu tank, refilled it and it’s empty again within the week. So I’m leaking gas somewhere. I sprayed the tank and regulator and all fitting with soapy water and didn’t see any bubbling. I then sprayed the coupler and all its fitting and again didn’t see anything. The only difference with this keg is the coupler is really easy to twist in and out. Like if I bump it it will come untwisted. I didn’t check at the faucet anywhere yet but what is next? I hate to burn another tank of gas as it was $43 to fill last week! Thanks in advance.

 

[Broken Crow]

"A picture is worth a thousand words"
Rather than have us ask what type of everything (lines, connectors, regulators etc..) Can you post a few pictures that show us all the connections? There are a number of areas where leaks happens and they differ depending on the types of lines and connectors you have. Otherwise; Take your time and describe in detail, every part of the path from the tank to the keg....vinyl/EVA, duotight/swivel nuts and clamps etc. How old is your sanke coupler?

 

[day_trippr]

If all else is the same as was for the "year" of successful dispensing before the new keg was connected, the logical and perhaps only place to look is the new keg...

Cheers!

 

[Willy]

Best places to check (from experience)...

gasket on the corny lid
PRV on the corny
Posts for beer or gas

Less likely but possible
U didn't push the duotight in all the way.p

Good luck.

 

[electricd7]

I’ll try to get some photos. It’s a pretty standard setup. I’m just stumped because the last keg was still holding gas when I removed it and all I changed was adding the new keg.

 

[electricd7]

If all else is the same as was for the "year" of successful dispensing before the new keg was connected, the logical and perhaps only place to look is the new keg...

Cheers!

Right…that’s my problem. It’s a commercial Guinness 50L keg, so if it’s not sealing properly on the U tap, what can I do?

 

[Bobby_M]

This oring makes the gas seal. It can get stiff, torn, nicked... It's remotely possible that there is a defect on the keg itself, but that would require looking really carefully and trying to find a flaw on the sealing surface. Since the seal is rubber and the wear component, it's more likely it is the problem.

 

[electricd7]

This oring makes the gas seal. It can get stiff, torn, nicked... It's remotely possible that there is a defect on the keg itself, but that would require looking really carefully and trying to find a flaw on the sealing surface. Since the seal is rubber and the wear component, it's more likely it is the problem.

View attachment 878796

I tried searching for an o ring replacement kit on Amazon for a U style coupler but haven’t come up with it. Do they sell these separately?

 

[Broken Crow]

It’s a pretty standard setup.

That really doesn't tell us anything... An old-school 'standard setup' is vinyl lines, a modern 'standard setup' is EVABarrier and then there's splicers/tees, secondaries, manifolds...
We get many users of commercial sanke kegs posting with leaks and among those who've had and been using a perfectly good kegerator for a coupler years or so, the gasket on the sanke coupler is usually the culprit like Bobby pointed out.
Among missing details: What brand of coupler do you have? ...here's what I could find in the UK for o-rings:
https://www.lawsdrinkssystems.co.uk...pense-pipe-fittings/keg-coupler-fittings.html
I also found the Micromatic o-ring on amazon, but due to their geo-locating redirects I can only post the .ca link:
https://www.amazon.ca/Mash-King-Mic...anke+u+style+coupler+o-ring,kitchen,77&sr=1-1 and that's a Micromatic....dunno if it differs from other brands.. maybe here:
https://www.micro-matic.co.uk/
There are however, other areas where a leak can happen. Please post some pics and keep us updated with details.

 

[IslandLizard]

The only difference with this keg is the coupler is really easy to twist in and out. Like if I bump it it will come untwisted.

That's likely the problem, the coupler not being able to make a positive seal with the keg.

Since the coupler worked well on the previous keg(s), it could very well be a defective mount on the keg itself.

 

[Broken Crow]

Sorry I was a bit short in my last response.... I woke up this morning to my own first lost tank of CO2 and I know exactly how it happened because I know the details. (and I discovered the leak when I decided to take a break from diagnosing my defucnct and urgently needed washing machine, so I'm not in a good mood...that's on me; Sorry again for being short with you.)
Given the title of this thread, others on the internet will find it when looking for help so I'm posting this here though I suspect you are not using an EVABarrier/Duotight system:
First: about 90% of EVABarrier/Duotight users are at least of average or higher physical/neurological/visual competence.... I am not, owing to a catastrophic injury, so my duotights occasionally leak and here's how duotights can leak:
The tubing cut must be perfect: 90° and with no flashing left behind. If your tube-cutter has a dull blade or if you cut with something else like side-cutters and compress while you cut, you will cut a curve into it and it will leak. If you cut on an angle it will leak. If you leave the tiniest bit of flashing, it will leak. Not all these leaks will present immediately and they may be very slow. You should always use the retaining clips because if the duotight collar gets pushed back in a bit or angled; it will leak.
If you put too much side-ways tension on it like this:

it will leak. That and an impefect cut are what caused my leak because my GF kicked a keg of cider a couple days ago and I switched to the keg behind it but left the gas line on a duotight connection I knew would leak if bent too far just hanging there in the empty space. My injury includes extensive brain-damage and I often can't properly proccess what my eyes inform me of and I knew that gas line probably had a small bit of flashing on it, but it never leaked as long as it didn't have sideways pressure on it. That's all on me. I've been very slow in upgrading to individual gas lines, swaged to swivel-nuts and on a manifold in prep for when I can afford decent secondary regulators....guess I'm doing that today and the washing machine can wait.
Anywhoo; What I just ranted about was a single detail of my own system. Your's likely differs and while it most likely is your coupler, it could be something else but we know only that you have a system using a sanke and nothing else. Sorry for being coarse, it's just frustrating that so often on here we want to help someone solve their issue but we can only do that effectively by knowing the parts involved.

 

[electricd7]

Let me know if these photos help at all. If not I can drag it all out and get better photos

 

[electricd7]

Sorry I was a bit short in my last response.... I woke up this morning to my own first lost tank of CO2 and I know exactly how it happened because I know the details. (and I discovered the leak when I decided to take a break from diagnosing my defucnct and urgently needed washing machine, so I'm not in a good mood...that's on me; Sorry again for being short with you.)
Given the title of this thread, others on the internet will find it when looking for help so I'm posting this here though I suspect you are not using an EVABarrier/Duotight system:
First: about 90% of EVABarrier/Duotight users are at least of average or higher physical/neurological/visual competence.... I am not, owing to a catastrophic injury, so my duotights occasionally leak and here's how duotights can leak:
The tubing cut must be perfect: 90° and with no flashing left behind. If your tube-cutter has a dull blade or if you cut with something else like side-cutters and compress while you cut, you will cut a curve into it and it will leak. If you cut on an angle it will leak. If you leave the tiniest bit of flashing, it will leak. Not all these leaks will present immediately and they may be very slow. You should always use the retaining clips because if the duotight collar gets pushed back in a bit or angled; it will leak.
If you put too much side-ways tension on it like this:
View attachment 878814
it will leak. That and an impefect cut are what caused my leak because my GF kicked a keg of cider a couple days ago and I switched to the keg behind it but left the gas line on a duotight connection I knew would leak if bent too far just hanging there in the empty space. My injury includes extensive brain-damage and I often can't properly proccess what my eyes inform me of and I knew that gas line probably had a small bit of flashing on it, but it never leaked as long as it didn't have sideways pressure on it. That's all on me. I've been very slow in upgrading to individual gas lines, swaged to swivel-nuts and on a manifold in prep for when I can afford decent secondary regulators....guess I'm doing that today and the washing machine can wait.
Anywhoo; What I just ranted about was a single detail of my own system. Your's likely differs and while it most likely is your coupler, it could be something else but we know only that you have a system using a sanke and nothing else. Sorry for being coarse, it's just frustrating that so often on here we want to help someone solve their issue but we can only do that effectively by knowing the parts involved.

Just appreciate any advice. Thanks for trying to help and hope your washing machine gets worked out!

 

[DuncB]

Try disconnecting the sanke connector and put it in a bucket of water, or starsan.
Any gas leak will be evident around this site.
Didn't see it mentioned but the gas ball lock connectors can leak, the O ring doesn't give a good seal on the gas post and needs changing.
Sometimes one position is okay but a slight position change can cause a leak.
If no leaks in bucket seen give the connection a wiggle.
At the same time check top of keg for debris and damage to the female socket.
Also you are using the correct Sankey the D and S are similar but different?

 

[electricd7]

Try disconnecting the sanke connector and put it in a bucket of water, or starsan.
Any gas leak will be evident around this site.
Didn't see it mentioned but the gas ball lock connectors can leak, the O ring doesn't give a good seal on the gas post and needs changing.
Sometimes one position is okay but a slight position change can cause a leak.
If no leaks in bucket seen give the connection a wiggle.
At the same time check top of keg for debris and damage to the female socket.
Also you are using the correct Sankey the D and S are similar but different?

This is actually a U style Sankey tap as required by Guinness kegs. When you say to submerge the tap in water/starsan you mean leave all the hoses connected and submerge it with lever up so I would be checking for leaks in tubing/connectors, right? If that doesn’t show any signs of leaking and no leaking at regulator that only leaves the keg side or the keg itself? If it ends up being a faulty keg, any advice? It’s commercial and largely full. Guessing my local liquor store won’t believe me!

 

[Broken Crow]

I have the exact same ball-lock>'beer-nut' adapters... pretty sure they're all made by the source who never gave much thought to the quality of the 'beer-nut' washer. The washers that came with mine are made of some cheap material I can't identify but I can attest they don't hold up to Star San and rapaidly deteriorate making a second possible slow-leak point.... If you're gonna be ordering new o-rings fro your coupler, might be a good idea to get some decent washers for the adapters as well and maybe some new Buna post-rings as well...inexpensive and better to have and not need that need and not have, besides; they will all need replacing eventually anyway.
Another leak point I've encountered is cheap ball-lock disconnects though it looks like you've had those for a while so I doubt they're a problem, if you buy any spares go for the genuine CM Beckers.

 

[DuncB]

This is actually a U style Sankey tap as required by Guinness kegs. When you say to submerge the tap in water/starsan you mean leave all the hoses connected and submerge it with lever up so I would be checking for leaks in tubing/connectors, right? If that doesn’t show any signs of leaking and no leaking at regulator that only leaves the keg side or the keg itself? If it ends up being a faulty keg, any advice? It’s commercial and largely full. Guessing my local liquor store won’t believe me!

Correct leave the lines on although the beer line not likely to be a source of gas loss so you could take that off.

Give the ball lock a wiggle on the gas post as mentioned above.

 

[Bobby_M]

We're getting there.
Put soapy water where I drew red.. If the large O-ring on the U coupler is damaged, it will bubble there.

The ball lock to beer thread adapter junction is where I drew blue.... There are two things that can be going on here. Sometimes these couplers have a one way valve in here called a duck bill.

The thing is, many times this is positioned so that the wide flared side sits proud and acts as the gasket for the connector so any additional gaskets can be a little weird and even the slightest over tightening can make them leak. If you have a duck bill, remove the black gasket from the fitting and then only go hand tight. If there is no duck bill, make sure there's a black flat gasket in there. Also only needs to be hand tight or it can get squished into the hole and out of place.

Last, check the origin between the ball lock adapter and the grey QD. Those do need replacing once in a while, especially if you don't use lubricant.

As suggested, you can drop the whole coupler in a bucket/bowl of water with the lever in the up position and you'll see bubbles if the yellow and/or blue spots are leaking gas.

 

[RA Clark]

I had a similar issue a while back.Ended up being the gasket on/in the beer nut. I never got any bubbles while looking for the leak.