• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Leaking filter housing

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jul 24, 2018
Messages
2,412
Reaction score
8,529
Location
Torrance
Greetings,

I searched futilely, so I ask the question:

If my water filter housing is leaking out the threads, it has not been dropped so no cracks, and I added thread tape to it to no avail, is it that the filter is done filtering and the threads are the weak spot for the leak?

It has only happened on the last three brews, and I think it is likely that it has filtered about 100 gallons at this point.

Many thanks!

Reevesie
 
The o-ring is supposed to supply the seal. Thread tape will probably prevent you tightening it down properly to allow this, lose the thread tape. If it's leaking, replace the o-ring and make sure to use silicone grease to lube it. Hand tighten, don't use a wrench at this point. Depending on the cartridge, it should handle way more than 100 gallons. I use the Pentek EP-10 carbon block filters, designed for whole house use. Cost about $14 and can run thousands of gallons. To know if a carbon filter is still good, you should get a good total chlorine test kit.
 
It never had an o-ring. But it never leaked until after almost a year's worth of use.

This is the filter I am using.

IMG_6744.JPG
 
Okay, I haven't seen a housing that doesn't have an o-ring. I'm at a loss then.

Entirely possible that it should have one and that it took me this long to find the flaw in the system. Wouldn't be the first time. I have been paid money in the past to break other people's stuff to find the flaws before commercial distribution, so, maybe it's a gift....

I appreciate your experience and insight.
 
Entirely possible that it should have one and that it took me this long to find the flaw in the system. Wouldn't be the first time. I have been paid money in the past to break other people's stuff to find the flaws before commercial distribution, so, maybe it's a gift....

I appreciate your experience and insight.

I have the same filter set up, it most definitely needs an o ring between the lid & the body. And like Robert said, lose the tape on those threads-although the inlet & outlet threaded connections should have tape.
 
I went to Home Depot and purchased o-rings. I will find out if I got the correct ones in a couple days when I get the chance to brew again.

Thank you again for all of your insight!
 
293CC122-DB79-4D3D-80FF-CBB9DF6E01D9.jpeg
If you mean the filter, it is on both sides. But there was no o-ring in the canister.

In the picture it looks like the o ring is wedged on the very bottom threads of the housing. It could just be shadowing causing it to look like an o ring though
 
That is a shadow. But it’s where the o-ring I purchased now sits. It’s funny that I used this almost a year without a leak or an o-ring. It doesn’t make sense, but that’s the way it has been.
 
If you are using the water filter to remove chlorine or chloramine, I'd recommend a GAC filter from Pentek, this is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/Pentek-GAC-1...ocphy=9010811&hvtargid=pla-308317686122&psc=1

The reason why I like this better than the ones you can get easily at Home Depot, is that it directs all the water through the entire filter from the bottom up, rather than allowing water to bypass most of the media across at the top. The GAC filter will provide higher efficiency and greater usable life, particularly for removing chlorine and chloramine from the water.
 
If you are using the water filter to remove chlorine or chloramine, I'd recommend a GAC filter from Pentek, this is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/Pentek-GAC-1...ocphy=9010811&hvtargid=pla-308317686122&psc=1

The reason why I like this better than the ones you can get easily at Home Depot, is that it directs all the water through the entire filter from the bottom up, rather than allowing water to bypass most of the media across at the top. The GAC filter will provide higher efficiency and greater usable life, particularly for removing chlorine and chloramine from the water.

Thank you, I will keep it in mind when the budget for an upgrade or replacement opens up.
 
If you are using the water filter to remove chlorine or chloramine, I'd recommend a GAC filter from Pentek, this is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/Pentek-GAC-1...ocphy=9010811&hvtargid=pla-308317686122&psc=1

The reason why I like this better than the ones you can get easily at Home Depot, is that it directs all the water through the entire filter from the bottom up, rather than allowing water to bypass most of the media across at the top. The GAC filter will provide higher efficiency and greater usable life, particularly for removing chlorine and chloramine from the water.
I use the Pentek EP-10. It costs a few bucks more than that, which I've never used, locally. But it eliminates chlorine and chloramine, confirmed by a total chlorine test kit, for a very long time, as it is designed for whole house use.

One thing that should be noted is that, if you are trying to remove chlorine, you need to run slowly to get sufficient contact time in the carbon block; no more than 1 gpm. If you are removing chloramine, you need to go even slower. I'm sure there's info on this topic somewhere on the forum.

And it is a good idea to test regularly with a total chlorine test kit to co firm that your filter hasn't reached the end of its service life. Hach has an excellent, easy to read colorimeteric kit available on Amazon.
 
If you are using the water filter to remove chlorine or chloramine, I'd recommend a GAC filter from Pentek, this is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/Pentek-GAC-1...ocphy=9010811&hvtargid=pla-308317686122&psc=1

The reason why I like this better than the ones you can get easily at Home Depot, is that it directs all the water through the entire filter from the bottom up, rather than allowing water to bypass most of the media across at the top. The GAC filter will provide higher efficiency and greater usable life, particularly for removing chlorine and chloramine from the water.
You'll find a carbon block to be a better product than GAC.

Russ
 
Last edited:
Back
Top