Leak at gas line connection, now what?

[sejasba]

I just got a new set of draft brewer kegs from Northern Brewer, and a double body regulator. I'm testing the connections for the first time and I've got bubbling at the gas line to regulator connection. I've tightened it with a wrench but it still bubbles when I bump up the pressure to 1 PSI. Do I just try to go nuts with tightening it with all my strength with the wrench, or what ?

 

[jekeane]

Have you put Teflon tape on the threads? I have also used a small amount of a temporary use plumbers putty. A photo of your connection may help or just a description of the connection. My gas line connects to the regulator via a barbed shank with a oeticker clamp over the hose. That shank screws into the regulator this is where I am picturing you leak and the need for tape/putty. If it is at the hose/barbed connection than you may need to cut off a little hose and try and reseat it on the shank better. If you have tried teflon I would contact Northern Brewer before going hulk on it just to make sure they don't find you liable for user error.

 

[IslandLizard]

^ +1. It can be bad fittings and should be returned/replaced, if so.

Teflon definitely. Most of those brass fittings come from China and the casting and machining can be p!ss poor. So check for burrs and bad threads, even missing threads. Sometimes running a tap or die (with oil) can clean them up enough, although that shouldn't be necessary on newly bought stuff.

 

[sejasba]

Have you put Teflon tape on the threads? I have also used a small amount of a temporary use plumbers putty. A photo of your connection may help or just a description of the connection. My gas line connects to the regulator via a barbed shank with a oeticker clamp over the hose. That shank screws into the regulator this is where I am picturing you leak and the need for tape/putty. If it is at the hose/barbed connection than you may need to cut off a little hose and try and reseat it on the shank better. If you have tried teflon I would contact Northern Brewer before going hulk on it just to make sure they don't find you liable for user error.

Let me try tape.

Yes, i have the gas line clamped to the piece which screws into the regulator. that's where it's leaking.

 

[zachattack]

I'm a little confused, is it leaking around the hose where it meets the barb or around the NPT threading where the barbed fitting screws into the regulator body?

If it's leaking around the hose, re-taping the threads will not help. Are you using the proper size gas tubing for that barb? What style hose clamp are you using?

 

[sejasba]

I'm a little confused, is it leaking around the hose where it meets the barb or around the NPT threading where the barbed fitting screws into the regulator body?

If it's leaking around the hose, re-taping the threads will not help. Are you using the proper size gas tubing for that barb? What style hose clamp are you using?

It's leaking around the threads where it screws onto the regulator body. I don't think there is any leaking going on where the tube is clamped.

I'm not sure what style clamp it is -- i'm at work and it's at home. Although the tube and everything was already clamped from NB, I just have to screw it onto the regulator.

 

[zachattack]

It's leaking around the threads where it screws onto the regulator body. I don't think there is any leaking going on where the tube is clamped.

I'm not sure what style clamp it is -- i'm at work and it's at home. Although the tube and everything was already clamped from NB, I just have to screw it onto the regulator.

OK gotcha. It was a little unclear from your last post. Yes, try the PTFE tape.

 

[sejasba]

OK gotcha. It was a little unclear from your last post. Yes, try the PTFE tape.

Yeah I re-read that post and it certainly wasn't clear where the leak was -- my bad! I'll pick up some tape tonight and hopefully that resolves everything.


Edit -- That took care of it, don't see anymore leaks at this point. Thanks guys.

 

[day_trippr]

Fwiw, if the gas line is terminated with a swivel nut that then screws onto the regulator, the problem is actually a missing plastic o-ring, and tape will not be a reliable substitute...

Cheers!

 

[Stealthcruiser]

trippr........Not sure if I posed this question before:
The flare or "MFL" fittings I think they are referred to as, what degree is the "flare" on them, and why the need for the plastic sealing washer if they are a true "flare" fitting, where male and female angles match?

Are they a "standard" flare, (45 degree), or an "AN" flare, (37 degrees)?

Thanks, if ya' know.

And thanks if ya' don't know!

 

[day_trippr]

The 1/4" MFL SS fitting I just checked is 45°, so I'm going to assume all my 1/4" SS flare fittings are 45°.

While I've used brass flare fittings on copper tubing for plumbing propane with a metal-to-metal connection, and SS flare fittings with SS brake tubing on automobiles that are also metal-to-metal, all of the SS 1/4" flare fittings I've seen and used for beer dispensing systems require some kind of gasket to effect the seal between mating faces.

Quick disconnects usually come with an integrated gasket, but if you're making a connection from gas tubing to the typical gas appliance fitting (eg: regulator output or manifold valve) a hard gasket is inserted inside the FFL swivel nut/barb fitting.

It's just the way it is, I reckon...

Cheers!

 

[sejasba]

Hmm... mine never came with that. It isn't referenced in the overview pdf (under the additional information tab) either. The only plastic washer that came with it was for the connection to the CO2 tank.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/...eg-system-with-double-body-co2-regulator.html

 

[day_trippr]

If the linked system is the one you're dealing with...take a close look at the picture showing the regulator. At the ends of the gas lines there are swivel nuts with barbs that are then screwed onto the shut-off valves.

Unless the shut-off valves have integrated o-rings at the tips of their threaded ends (something I've never seen before) those swivel nuts absolutely positively need one of these flared nylon washers to make a seal:

Doesn't matter if the instructions never mention that washer, if there's a swivel nut screwed onto a naked post it needs to be there. If the seller didn't even include them with the kit, that's their bad...

Cheers!