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Layering dry hops?

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TripleC223

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I'm curious about dry hop schedules with different hops.

I have a pale ale hopped with cascade and Citra, and I plan to dry hop at two different times during fermentation: first at high krausen, and second for the final 5 days. Would it make a difference if I did one of those dry hops with all one hop (2 oz cascade at high krausen) and the the second dry hop with all the other hop (2 oz citra for final 5 days)?

Or should I do equal parts of each hop at both stages? My hunch is that the second hop addition would be more noticeable in the final product, but I'm not sure if that's how it actually works.
 
Doing a dry hop at high krausen will not have a normal dry hop effect i don't believe. The fermentation will kill the aroma if i understand correctly. If you're going for aroma I'd do both styles of hops for the final 5 days. However, if you are already aware of this and you're doing it to experiment, then experiment away! I'd be curious to know what happens
 
Doing a dry hop at high krausen will not have a normal dry hop effect i don't believe. The fermentation will kill the aroma if i understand correctly. If you're going for aroma I'd do both styles of hops for the final 5 days. However, if you are already aware of this and you're doing it to experiment, then experiment away! I'd be curious to know what happens

Thanks for the response. Upon further research, it seems best to drop in the first round of dry hops once primary fermentation has slowed (~4 days), followed by the second round about a week out from bottling.

As a follow-up, when double dry-hopping, does one round contribute more aroma than another? I have 2 oz cascade and 2 oz citra to use in these two rounds of DH, so should I drop them in at equal proportions, or should I use the cascade in the first round, and the citra in the second round?
 
Dry hopping during fermentation then again after fermentation is the hallmark of NEIPAs (that and the haziness which helps keep hop flavor compounds in suspension). It doesn't hurt the aroma.

As far as timing of hop additions, the closer to consumption the better. If you bottle, do it all a week before bottling. If you keg, do it in keg right before and even during serving.

Also note that, and forgive me for always bringing this up, pale ales are not traditionally dry hopped at all. That much hop aroma disrupts the malt-hop balance which is the defining trait of a pale ale. Dry hopping crosses it over into nebulous IPA territory. I keep fighting this battle but it's too late. People are so accustomed to "pale ales" of all walks of life anymore. The balanced 5% ales of old are hard to come by.
 
Dry hopping during fermentation then again after fermentation is the hallmark of NEIPAs (that and the haziness which helps keep hop flavor compounds in suspension). It doesn't hurt the aroma.

As far as timing of hop additions, the closer to consumption the better. If you bottle, do it all a week before bottling. If you keg, do it in keg right before and even during serving.

Also note that, and forgive me for always bringing this up, pale ales are not traditionally dry hopped at all. That much hop aroma disrupts the malt-hop balance which is the defining trait of a pale ale. Dry hopping crosses it over into nebulous IPA territory. I keep fighting this battle but it's too late. People are so accustomed to "pale ales" of all walks of life anymore. The balanced 5% ales of old are hard to come by.


Great insight. My goal with this one is to make a hoppy beer defined by the aroma of the Citra and cascade hop combo, but with limited bitterness and a light, sweet malt. The IBU came in at around 40, which I always assumed was more pale ale territory than IPA. The dry hop is to accentuate that hoppiness.

That said, in my research trying to find the real difference between an APA and an IPA, it seems the lines have become somewhat blurred. I've had commercial pales that I swear were IPAs. I had actually never heard that APA were not traditionally dry-hopped, so thank you for that tidbit.

So when I dry hop, will I basically have a less bitter IPA on my hands? That's absolutely fine if that's the case.
 
The longer they DH sits, the more aroma will vanish, and you get more of a flavor-hop, but if you overdo it you will get some grassiness. For maksimum aroma I feel that 3-5 days is good, anything over five days and the aroma starts to fade. If you want to layer some more than just double dryhopping, add WP hops at 60C, and let them sit for 30 minutes at that temperature This is below pasteurisation temperature, but not high enough of a temperature to drive off much of the myrcene oils, but still high enough so you can embedd the flavors and aroma pretty "deep" into the beer. My experiences, no sources for the information. I don't understand why anyone would add WP hops at a temperature above 65C.
 
The longer they DH sits, the more aroma will vanish, and you get more of a flavor-hop, but if you overdo it you will get some grassiness. For maksimum aroma I feel that 3-5 days is good, anything over five days and the aroma starts to fade. If you want to layer some more than just double dryhopping, add WP hops at 60C, and let them sit for 30 minutes at that temperature This is below pasteurisation temperature, but not high enough of a temperature to drive off much of the myrcene oils, but still high enough so you can embedd the flavors and aroma pretty "deep" into the beer. My experiences, no sources for the information. I don't understand why anyone would add WP hops at a temperature above 65C.

I started my WP hops at ~145 degrees and left them for 30 minutes, so glad to hear that was effective.
 

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