Lager stopped fermenting after 2 days

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MickeyT

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Hey guys - also new to brewing with only one successful batch behind me. (Pale Ale fermenting at room temperature 71.6F.)

I then got cocky and started an Oktoberfest... Without doing proper research and without proper means to do a cold fermentation.

I know, I know - stupid! But I hydrated a Saflager W35/70 together with the packet of kit-yeast at 75.2F, OG 1.031, got primary fermentation at a slowish 1 bubble per second and after another day, 1 bubble per 90 seconds and then it stopped. OG was 1.031 and after that 3 days, 1.011. I waited a week while leaving it at 64.4F and then syphoned it over to a second fermenter and pitched another packet of W35/70. It bubbled for half a day very slowely, and then nothing. I placed this brew in a cupboard with iced bottles around for another week at 55.4F. No further fermentation, so tonight I added my finings and will leave until the weekend to, after adding a priming dectrose solution, bottle it and stick it in the fridge at 50F for about a month. Current gravity is 1.009

Now my question - can you guys think of what I did wrong? Was it only the initial fermentation temperature that was too warm?
 
It sounds like it stopped fermenting because it was done and you fermented warm. Besides it being more like a steam beer I don't see a problem other than not fermenting in the proper temp range..
 
75.2 will not give you an octoberfest.

But it will give you beer :)

bottle it or keg it, leave it for a month and see how it tastes.
 
I'll be doing my first lager, and my LHBS person made a point of telling me that lager yeasts tend yo be bottom fermenters and not to expect a lot of air lock action. Of course, the best way to tell when fermentation is done is with gravity readings. Your beer is done. Have you tasted the sample? How is it?
 
There is a lot of very good information on how to brew lagers on this site. I've tried a couple, based off of what I have read here. The solid information leads me to believe that the best way to ensure a good lager are:

1. Fermentation temp. Getting this under control is huge. There are some lager yeasts that will produce good lagers while fermenting on the warm side (like 60-65 degrees) but most prefer to be around 55.

2. Pitching enough healthy yeast. Since these guys work under colder temps, they usually work a bit slower than ale yeast. Pitching enough soldiers for battle is crucial in producing a good lager.

Those are the two biggest issues most people have, that I have read, with lagers. Follow a good fermentation schedule, get your temps under control, and pitch plenty of healthy yeast from a starter should get you there.
 
It sound kind of like a fermentation schedule for a California Common. That is a lager fermented at ale temperatures. Then you cooled it. It finished so fast because it was fermented at too high a temperature for a true lager.

It will not taste like a normal Octoberfest, but it could still be very good. Since it was not done to specs I would not worry too much about "lagering" it in the bottles. After 2-3 weeks, cool and test a bottle. If it is good, go ahead and start enjoying them. If it isn't quite to your liking wait longer, they may improve.
 
Hey guys - also new to brewing with only one successful batch behind me. (Pale Ale fermenting at room temperature 71.6F.)

I then got cocky and started an Oktoberfest... Without doing proper research and without proper means to do a cold fermentation.

I know, I know - stupid! But I hydrated a Saflager W35/70 together with the packet of kit-yeast at 75.2F, OG 1.031, got primary fermentation at a slowish 1 bubble per second and after another day, 1 bubble per 90 seconds and then it stopped. OG was 1.031 and after that 3 days, 1.011. I waited a week while leaving it at 64.4F and then syphoned it over to a second fermenter and pitched another packet of W35/70. It bubbled for half a day very slowely, and then nothing. I placed this brew in a cupboard with iced bottles around for another week at 55.4F. No further fermentation, so tonight I added my finings and will leave until the weekend to, after adding a priming dectrose solution, bottle it and stick it in the fridge at 50F for about a month. Current gravity is 1.009

Now my question - can you guys think of what I did wrong? Was it only the initial fermentation temperature that was too warm?

In terms of the yeast finishing fermentation.... you did not really do anything wrong. 1.010 range IS FINISHED. The yeast ran out of stuff to eat.

As others have mentioned..... the temps you fermented at a re too high for a lager.... usually in the 50-55 range is around ideal.

I usually ferment most of my lagers at 52 for 2 weeks , then raise temp to 65 for 3 days, then gradually lower it back down about 5 degrees a day to 33. Then move from primary to keg and let it lager at 32 for 4-6 weeks. Carb and serve.
 
Thanks a lot guys. I let it sit for a week at 50F and it tested at 1.009 at 53.6F, and clearer than I thought it would be, and also not bad tasting, and then bottled it.

I immediately brewed a Pilsner, used S189 and it is currently on its second day fermenting at 59F, and going down to 55.4. I plan on leaving it like that for two weeks, bringing it up to 65 for 3 (as suggested by Braufessor) before bringing it down to 33 for at least 2 weeks.

There is just noting beating the constant blurp of an airlock in the background!

Thanks for all the advice!
 
THIS, I still need to learn how to do... :mug:

It will be the easiest thing you ever did in brewing... as long as you have sanitary practices when handling your yeast and chilled wort already.

So, without getting the off topic police in an uproar.... you can watch YouTube videos on yeast harvesting and yeast harvesting (both of these links are by Don Osborn) :rockin:




But for the first time... I'd just suggest transferring your chilled wort onto the yeast cake in recently racked fermenter. Alternatively, you can sanitize a spoon or small dish and harvest some yeast right out of the old fermenter and into the new wort.

People have strong opinions on what is best practice or pitching rates but that's what I do.

Going from you 1.031 beer to a 1.060 beer would be ideal! (as would going from lighter to darker and less hoppy to more hoppy)
 
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It will be the easiest thing you ever did in brewing... as long as you have sanitary practices when handling your yeast and chilled wort already.

So, without getting the off topic police in an uproar.... you can watch YouTube videos on yeast harvesting and yeast harvesting (both of these links are by Don Osborn) :rockin:

yeast harvesting
yeast washing

But for the first time... I'd just suggest transferring your chilled wort onto the yeast cake in recently racked fermenter. Alternatively, you can sanitize a spoon or small dish and harvest some yeast right out of the old fermenter and into the new wort.

People have strong opinions on what is best practice or pitching rates but that's what I do.

Going from you 1.031 beer to a 1.060 beer would be ideal! (as would going from lighter to darker and less hoppy to more hoppy)

Great stuff! Thanks a mill for the youtube vids. One last question - How long can one keep these washed yeast, and in what temperature?
 
I'll be doing my first lager, and my LHBS person made a point of telling me that lager yeasts tend yo be bottom fermenters and not to expect a lot of air lock action. Of course, the best way to tell when fermentation is done is with gravity readings. Your beer is done. Have you tasted the sample? How is it?
Is this true? I'm brewing oktoberfest and lost my nerve not seeing activity on the airlock, but krausen is still there, so nothing to worry about?
 
Is this true? I'm brewing oktoberfest and lost my nerve not seeing activity on the airlock, but krausen is still there, so nothing to worry about?
Yes it’s true. Keep it cool within the range of your yeast and give it time. Nothing to worry about, and you’re not alone I think most of us have worried at least a little when doing something different/new.
 
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