American IPA KPR121's Nugget Nectar Clone

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kpr121

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Location
Pittsburgh
Recipe Type
All Grain
Yeast
US-05
Yeast Starter
No
Additional Yeast or Yeast Starter
-
Batch Size (Gallons)
11
Original Gravity
1.064
Final Gravity
1.013
Boiling Time (Minutes)
60
IBU
95.5
Color
7.4
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
14 days @ 65F
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
-
Additional Fermentation
-
Tasting Notes
Very Close! More \\"Nuggety\\" than the real thing!
Recipe: 00014 Nugget Nectar 2013 Clone
Brewer: Kevin
Asst Brewer:
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (30.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 13.69 gal
Post Boil Volume: 12.48 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 11.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 11.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.064 SG
Estimated Color: 7.4 SRM
Estimated IBU: 95.5 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 73.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
4.00 tsp Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 1 -
23 lbs Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 2 78.6 %
3 lbs 12.0 oz Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 3 12.8 %
2 lbs 8.0 oz Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 4 8.5 %
3.00 oz Nugget [13.00 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 5 64.1 IBUs
2.00 oz Nugget [13.00 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 6 19.3 IBUs
1.00 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 7 7.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 8 5.1 IBUs
2.50 oz Nugget [13.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 9 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg US-S05 [50.00 ml] Yeast 10 -
3.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 11 0.0 IBUs
3.00 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 12 0.0 IBUs


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 29 lbs 4.0 oz
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 37.56 qt of water at 171.2 F 152.0 F 60 min

Sparge: Batch sparge with 4 steps (Drain mash tun, , 2.69gal, 2.69gal, 2.69gal) of 168.0 F water
 

bobbrews

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I've tried to clone this as well. And I can tell you right now, Pilsner comprises the majority of the base... not Vienna. There are about 18 different attempts for this beer out there that vary dramatically.
 

sivdrinks

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I have a thread on it out there with what I think needs to be altered from the recipe I brewed. Color is too light and should probably be all Nugget in dry hop. Also degassed a real NN and found the FG to be 1.017. I just did the Troegs tour on Friday. Their base malt is a combo of Pilsner and Munich, not sure on the mix but I thought it weird considering you could just add or take away desired amounts of Munich. All the bags I saw we're Weyerman. Saw Carafoam, Carared, Carahell and Melanoid also.
 

bobbrews

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To add further, this years version of NN (2013) tastes the best by far in the past 5 years. It seems heavy on the Tomahawk and much drier than usual. So 1.013 is very believable.
 
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kpr121

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I've tried to clone this as well. And I can tell you right now, Pilsner comprises the majority of the base... not Vienna. There are about 18 different attempts for this beer out there that vary dramatically.
Funny I thought the exact opposite that Vienna absolutely has to be the majority. I think my next batch I will try the pils as I havent done that yet.

This thread is mostly just to allow me to work through my own iterations on a clone. Like you said there are too many versions on here that vary wildly. Whats another going to harm?

All my hops additions were based on what I have on hand honestly. I agree that Tomahawk probably plays a large role and I will be sure to get some in there next brew. I politely disagree that the dryhops should be all nugget. I probably wont do Cascade again but I think there is definitely some Simcoe in there.

Im going to have to listen to the BTV episode again where they explained their ingredients. All those Cara's dont ring a bell, but I could definitely see where using a pils base and adding a bunch of dextrines through crystal type malts could be plausible.... Im just saying I think the Vienna-base gets damn close and is a heck of a lot easier.
 

sivdrinks

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kpr121 said:
Funny I thought the exact opposite that Vienna absolutely has to be the majority. I think my next batch I will try the pils as I havent done that yet.

This thread is mostly just to allow me to work through my own iterations on a clone. Like you said there are too many versions on here that vary wildly. Whats another going to harm?

All my hops additions were based on what I have on hand honestly. I agree that Tomahawk probably plays a large role and I will be sure to get some in there next brew. I politely disagree that the dryhops should be all nugget. I probably wont do Cascade again but I think there is definitely some Simcoe in there.

Im going to have to listen to the BTV episode again where they explained their ingredients. All those Cara's dont ring a bell, but I could definitely see where using a pils base and adding a bunch of dextrines through crystal type malts could be plausible.... Im just saying I think the Vienna-base gets damn close and is a heck of a lot easier.
By all means clone away! Do your own thing, it's cool. I'm just telling you guys what I saw and know for facts. Troegs lists the ingredients on their website, no guarantee they're 100% truthful but I'd think so seeing as how they list the scratch beer ingredients at the pub on a blackboard. There's definitely Vienna in there as listed. It doesn't mention a dry hop at all, just Nugget in the Hopback. They do have a whirlpool so maybe those hops are what's coming through a bit stronger. No crystal/caramel is listed, I was just telling ya what I saw there and that everything was Weyerman.
 
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kpr121

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Sivdrinks, I honestly appreciate the information, especially given your first hand look at the brewery, there has to be some merit to it! Unless they leave bags of decoy malt next to their real ingredients! I agree that I don’t think Troegs is a brewery that would do that, but at the same time I think they might be enjoying the fact that so many of us are trying to brew a clone and have such varied opinions on the right ingredients.

I dryhop because I don’t have an easy means of using a hop back. But on the second keg of this NN clone I used a French press and steeped the dry hops for an hour in 150ish water and then added the liquid only to the keg. I haven’t tapped that one yet but the smell from the pressure relief valve is awesome!

For anyone else following this thread my recipe is obviously a work in progress. But it is a delicious progress! I imagine my next batch will come sometime in the fall this year, I want to try a couple different IPAs before I rebrew this one.
 

bobbrews

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kpr121

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A hop back is described here: http://beersmith.com/blog/2009/11/25/using-a-hop-back-for-homebrewed-beer/ - If you lack the equipment, this technique could being pseudo-simulated by adding your whirlpool hops to warm wort (sub 165 F) and then slow-chilling them down to pitch temps for the duration of the chill of 20-60 minutes. The longer the better.
Thanks for the link bobbrews. That hopback looks surprising simple to build, maybe I’ll have to try to make one. I think I could use two Type F camlock fittings (my system has all camlocks) and a locknut with silicone o-ring through the lid of a quart mason jar to make a solder-less version. I could attach the scrubby with a ziptie or something. Only thing I would need would be another hose but I’ve been wanting to make one anyhow to help with my cleaning runs.

As far as the whirlpooling goes, I actually do whirlpool my 0 minute hops, usually for 20 minutes. The way I do it now is basically recirculate through my plate chiller until the entire temp is down to 150 or so, which is low enough to run one final pass through the chiller to get to ferment temp. But it seems to get the true effect of a ‘hopback’ type addition I should only add my whirlpool hops after chilling down below 165 for maximum aroma flavor and minimum isomerization.

I’ll have to try that next time (if I don’t get to build a hop back first!)
 

sivdrinks

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kpr121 said:
Sivdrinks, I honestly appreciate the information, especially given your first hand look at the brewery, there has to be some merit to it! Unless they leave bags of decoy malt next to their real ingredients! I agree that I don’t think Troegs is a brewery that would do that, but at the same time I think they might be enjoying the fact that so many of us are trying to brew a clone and have such varied opinions on the right ingredients.

I dryhop because I don’t have an easy means of using a hop back. But on the second keg of this NN clone I used a French press and steeped the dry hops for an hour in 150ish water and then added the liquid only to the keg. I haven’t tapped that one yet but the smell from the pressure relief valve is awesome!

For anyone else following this thread my recipe is obviously a work in progress. But it is a delicious progress! I imagine my next batch will come sometime in the fall this year, I want to try a couple different IPAs before I rebrew this one.
I dry hopped also but with Nugget, Simcoe and Palisade. Think I got that from BYO maybe? Anyway, I think using all Nugget is a better option. Should give that herbal/peach aroma I get from NN. Give your results if you make it more than once. That's one of my problems, I never make recipies again so I don't know if they ever get better.
 

bobbrews

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This years has a ton of Tomahawk in it. The flavor/aroma is unmistakable and very forward. That comes from the dryhop since the dryhop hops tend to dominate the flavor/aroma focus of the hoppy beer.
 
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kpr121

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I dry hopped also but with Nugget, Simcoe and Palisade. Think I got that from BYO maybe? Anyway, I think using all Nugget is a better option. Should give that herbal/peach aroma I get from NN. Give your results if you make it more than once. That's one of my problems, I never make recipies again so I don't know if they ever get better.
Yeah Im thinking maybe 2 oz Nugget 1 oz Tomahawk would be my next guess at a dry hop charge....

And maybe 1 oz Palisades, 1 oz Simcoe, 1 oz Tomahawk, 1 oz Nugget in the hopback.

Yumm
 

bobbrews

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Thanks for the link bobbrews. That hopback looks surprising simple to build, maybe I’ll have to try to make one.
More info on hopbacks below... If you brew mostly with pellet hops, I would just stick with a warm whirlpool. Hopbacks seem to be more suited for leaf hops:

The original method for removing trub is a hop back. Historically, when beer was made using whole hops, wort would be discharged into a vessel with a false bottom, not very different from a lauter tun. This system is still prominent in breweries that use whole hops. The hops create a filter bed that removes both hop and proteinaceous trub. After wort flows through the hop back, it is pumped through a heat exchanger and into the fermentor. The hop back must not allow any leaves or flowers to pass through, because such materials can clog a plate heat exchanger. To avoid this, brewers often set a bed of fresh hops on the false bottom before letting the wort flow in. This practice also brings greater hop aroma into the finished beer. Despite the splashing, the wort's uptake of oxygen during this step is less than one might expect because the steam generated during runoff forms a protective barrier between the wort and outside air.

Hop backs, traditional tools for trub removal, incorporate a false bottom that holds a filter bed of hops. Hot wort enters through the inlet at top and exits through the outlet at bottom.

Design of the hop back must take into account the amount of whole hops that the brewery uses. It should have enough open surface area on the false bottom to allow an entire gyle to filter in <1 h, preferably closer to 0.5 h. Textbooks recommend a filter bed of at least 6 in. (preferably 12-24 in.), though I have seen home brewers effectively use much less. It is important to avoid suction of the wort because it increases the risk that hops will pass through to the heat exchangers. Wort flow through the hop back can be controlled by applying back pressure (that is, by placing a valve on the positive side of the wort pump).

An in-line sight glass is a nice feature and is useful for checking clarity. Large breweries have more complex hop backs, with features such as sparge, recirculation, underletting, and spent-hops discharge. Others use hop separators, where wort enters, passes through a sieve, and discharges. Hop separators maximize hop efficiency by incorporating a screw conveyer that compresses and sparges the hops before expelling them.
 

sivdrinks

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Hbryant said:
What's a good yeast?
They said American Ale. It takes on its own character at the brewery though after harvesting and reusing but the normal S05 or WLP001 or 1056 is fine.
 

Hbryant

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I'm using a US05 in an ipa I'm doing brewing today. But it's a strand I harvested all from other ipas this will be it's third fermentation and last. (wife is tired of looking at it). I was just wondering about a yeast for the nugget, I was thinking about trying a Nottingham just to switch it up? The nugget had something that I couldn't pick out.
 
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kpr121

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Your wife is sick of looking at US-05? Seems like a pretty cool wife honestly! (Unless she is sick of looking at your beer in general).

Nottingham would work OK, but I think that Troegs house yeast has a little something extra to it. It&#8217;s not completely clean but it doesn&#8217;t have a ton of esters like a british strain would have.
 

tadkays

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I went with 53% Vienna, 40% Pale, 3% Melanoiden, & 3% C-60. 6.5oz hops boil. 3oz dry hops. American Ale II. 5g batch, mash 152. Hopeful for a tasty brew!
 
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