Kettle - Go expensive, or go cheap?
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Go cheap. It's a pot for boiling wort. And if you don't know how to keep your equipment sanitized, it won't matter if you have a Blingmann or a tea kettle - you won't make good beer.
I will say that Blingmanns hold their value. So if you get one and decide to get out, you won't be out much cash. Just be sure you know how to sanitize and clean the kettle, the valve, and the sight glass.
I will say that Blingmanns hold their value. So if you get one and decide to get out, you won't be out much cash. Just be sure you know how to sanitize and clean the kettle, the valve, and the sight glass.
You can find good SS stock pots at the local larger grocery stores,& others with kitchen supplies. At the beginning of last year,I found a set of 4 nested SS stock pots with lids & steamer trays POLISHED four some $25 on sale. The 2 biggest were 4 & 5 gallon. Stove top partialboil,which is the majority of kits,will do great in a 4 gallon (16QT) stock pot with 2.5 gallons od water typically used in kit instructions. It'll boil easier than the bigger 5G (20 QT) stock pot,in my experiences with electric stoves.
EvilDeadAsh
Well-Known Member
Agree with IffyG - you don't want to start out with a small kettle, only having to upgrade later. Once you decide on a size, Blichmann is definitely top of the line and will have everything you need. However, if you are just going to be boiling in it, then all the fancy bells and whistles aren't necessarily going to do you any good. For example, you don't really need a thermometer on a brew kettle - once the water is boiling, it's boiling. Although a sight glass might be nice to help you understand your efficiency, boil off rates, etc...
You can always purchase a less expensive, quality kettle, and add to it with a drill bit and some parts from brewhardware.com or bargainfittings.com
Bayou Classic kettles are a good alternative to Blichmann which you can find on Amazon, as well as pots from several vendors listed under the vendor forums.
The general recommendation is to get a kettle about twice the size batch, i.e.: 10g kettle for 5G batches, 20G kettle for 10g batches (though you can likely get away with a 15G kettle)
edit: edited a confusing typo
You can always purchase a less expensive, quality kettle, and add to it with a drill bit and some parts from brewhardware.com or bargainfittings.com
Bayou Classic kettles are a good alternative to Blichmann which you can find on Amazon, as well as pots from several vendors listed under the vendor forums.
The general recommendation is to get a kettle about twice the size batch, i.e.: 10g kettle for 5G batches, 20G kettle for 10g batches (though you can likely get away with a 15G kettle)
edit: edited a confusing typo
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^^That's if you're doing full boils. Most beginners don't. So a 4 or 5 gallon SS stock pot with matching lid works great. I have both sizes myself.
bigbeergeek
Well-Known Member
Get a cheap 10 gallon aluminum pot from the start. Drill a hole, add a weldless ball valve. You'll be set for the next decade or two.
EvilDeadAsh
Well-Known Member
Union, I agree - but if you ever decide to move to full boils or into all-grain, you will just have to wind up buying a 2nd kettle down the line. Better (IMO) to just buy the larger kettle off the bat rather than buying 2 kettles.
hotspurdotus
Well-Known Member
I say go cheap. You can always buy a second kettle once you've established you're in for the long run.
The first one can be re-purposed as a hot liquor tank, decoction kettle, or multitude of other uses. And it's always good to have a backup.
The first one can be re-purposed as a hot liquor tank, decoction kettle, or multitude of other uses. And it's always good to have a backup.
That's what I'm thinking. I'll always need another kettle or two for PM or AG anyway. Not to mention,those fancy high end BK's are really expensive to a noob with te site glasses and all. Best to cover all the basic needs first,as most of us don't usually have a grand or so to go high end to start with.
you don't need a $200 pot, but unless you plan to only do partial boils for a long time, i would get a nice 10 gal pot. this is only $42...i have and use it, it's quality. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CHKL68/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Last edited by a moderator:
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Figure out your batch size, and how you're going to be brewing for at least the next year (more if possible). IF you can see going all grain (full boil batches), then I would set up at least a 10 gallon kettle. Depending on where you are, and availability, look to convert a 1/2 barrel keg into a keggle.
Things that are most important in a kettle/keggle (IMO/IME):
1/2" NPT ball valve. If you can afford it, get a 3 piece stainless model (full port).
Dip tube. This mates to the ball valve so that you extract more wort during the drain.
Sight glass/tube assembly. That's how you'll be able to easily tell how much wort you have in the kettle/keggle without using sticks.
Things that are less important, if not nigh on useless, in a kettle/keggle:
Thermometer. While you need a way to tell the mash temp, in a kettle/keggle it's not all that important. You'll really only need to know when you've chilled the wort to your pitching temperature. That can be easily done with instant read thermometers (which are far cheaper). Plus the probe from an installed thermometer can interfere with things like IC's...
False bottom. Only needed for a mash tun.
Depending on your chill method, you could look to add recirculation fittings for not that much money.
No matter which route you take, if you're going to make the kettle/keggle yourself, you'll want/need a good step bit (up to 7/8" hole size). If you're going to drill stainless steel, be sure to keep the pot (it's a pot until you've at least installed a ball valve) and bit cool while using. Also use the low speed range on the drill you use.
There are plenty of fittings you can use with the weldless method. Plenty of vendors sell them too.
All that being said, there's nothing wrong with using an aluminum pot as the kettle base. Just be sure to properly condition it before you use it the first time (boil as much water as you possibly can to create the oxide layer). You don't need to do that with stainless steel. Also, plan out where the fittings will go before you start drilling. Look at how Blichmann has their fittings. They are all right in line with one of the handles. This is less important with a keggle (relationship to the handles) provided you keep the handles that are part of the keg top. IMO, that's one of the reasons to make a keggle. Built-in, very strong, handles.
I've made aluminum kettles, stainless kettles (from pots) as well as keggles. I even own a 10 gallon Blichmann BoilerMaker kettle. I use the keggles now for the mash and boil. Next batch the Blichmann will be used to heat my sparge water. On my boil keggle, I have a ball valve (with dip tube), recirculation fitting, and my sight tube/glass assembly. No thermometer. For my mash tun, I have a NorCal false bottom, ball valve assembly (with dip tube) and recirculation fitting. I originally had a thermometer installed in the mash tun, but I'm now using a digital thermometer with probes that go into the mash to give me two temperature readings. Far better than a reading from just one spot a few inches into the mash tun. I can also get good readings without opening the mash tun at all. I have insulated the mash tun keggle, so that I lose less heat during the mash. Since it IS a keggle I can directly fire it to increase the temperature as needed.
BTW, check out a dozen different brewers and you'll see several (if not a full dozen) different setups. While some elements can be the same, generally speaking, no two brewers have identical setups. We all still make great beer though. :rockin:
Things that are most important in a kettle/keggle (IMO/IME):
1/2" NPT ball valve. If you can afford it, get a 3 piece stainless model (full port).
Dip tube. This mates to the ball valve so that you extract more wort during the drain.
Sight glass/tube assembly. That's how you'll be able to easily tell how much wort you have in the kettle/keggle without using sticks.
Things that are less important, if not nigh on useless, in a kettle/keggle:
Thermometer. While you need a way to tell the mash temp, in a kettle/keggle it's not all that important. You'll really only need to know when you've chilled the wort to your pitching temperature. That can be easily done with instant read thermometers (which are far cheaper). Plus the probe from an installed thermometer can interfere with things like IC's...
False bottom. Only needed for a mash tun.
Depending on your chill method, you could look to add recirculation fittings for not that much money.
No matter which route you take, if you're going to make the kettle/keggle yourself, you'll want/need a good step bit (up to 7/8" hole size). If you're going to drill stainless steel, be sure to keep the pot (it's a pot until you've at least installed a ball valve) and bit cool while using. Also use the low speed range on the drill you use.
There are plenty of fittings you can use with the weldless method. Plenty of vendors sell them too.
All that being said, there's nothing wrong with using an aluminum pot as the kettle base. Just be sure to properly condition it before you use it the first time (boil as much water as you possibly can to create the oxide layer). You don't need to do that with stainless steel. Also, plan out where the fittings will go before you start drilling. Look at how Blichmann has their fittings. They are all right in line with one of the handles. This is less important with a keggle (relationship to the handles) provided you keep the handles that are part of the keg top. IMO, that's one of the reasons to make a keggle. Built-in, very strong, handles.
I've made aluminum kettles, stainless kettles (from pots) as well as keggles. I even own a 10 gallon Blichmann BoilerMaker kettle. I use the keggles now for the mash and boil. Next batch the Blichmann will be used to heat my sparge water. On my boil keggle, I have a ball valve (with dip tube), recirculation fitting, and my sight tube/glass assembly. No thermometer. For my mash tun, I have a NorCal false bottom, ball valve assembly (with dip tube) and recirculation fitting. I originally had a thermometer installed in the mash tun, but I'm now using a digital thermometer with probes that go into the mash to give me two temperature readings. Far better than a reading from just one spot a few inches into the mash tun. I can also get good readings without opening the mash tun at all. I have insulated the mash tun keggle, so that I lose less heat during the mash. Since it IS a keggle I can directly fire it to increase the temperature as needed.
BTW, check out a dozen different brewers and you'll see several (if not a full dozen) different setups. While some elements can be the same, generally speaking, no two brewers have identical setups. We all still make great beer though. :rockin:
I'm fairly new to the hobby as well so here is my $.02. I purchased a 5 gal SS kettle to do kits and partial boils. This works well for begginners unless you want to jump directly into all-grain. AG is more complex and requires a good deal of understanding so this can be challenging for newbies.A cheap 5 gal is fine for kits or partial boils. If you decide that you dont enjoy the hobby or dont plan to brew often this can be a good starting point
I really enjoy the hobby so I plan to move to all grain and will utilize my current kettle for heating strike and sparge water while my larger 10 g kettle. Its not like you cant use the smaller cheaper kettle.
As others have stated you could always go with a 10 G kettle and add fittings yourself.
FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
Go to Walmart or Target and buy the 8 Gallon Aluminum IMUSA Tamale Steamer pot for $20-25 dont waste your time getting a 5 gallon pot and doing partial boils, you will want to upgrade within 2-3 brews like most people here.
8 Gallon pot is enough to do pretty much any 5 gallon recipe, and will work great when/if you move to All Grain.
Make full boil beers, enjoy life.
http://www.target.com/p/imusa-32-qt-aluminum-tamale-steamer/-/A-10910892
Then if you decide you like brewing, and need more or better equipment, go get a fancy Blichmann for 10-20x the cost.
Good Equipment doesnt make good beer. Good brewing practices(sanitization, temperature control, patience) and good ingredients make good beer. It just makes it "easier", which even then is still speculative, in the end it really just matters how much money your willing to spend.
8 Gallon pot is enough to do pretty much any 5 gallon recipe, and will work great when/if you move to All Grain.
Make full boil beers, enjoy life.
http://www.target.com/p/imusa-32-qt-aluminum-tamale-steamer/-/A-10910892
Then if you decide you like brewing, and need more or better equipment, go get a fancy Blichmann for 10-20x the cost.
Good Equipment doesnt make good beer. Good brewing practices(sanitization, temperature control, patience) and good ingredients make good beer. It just makes it "easier", which even then is still speculative, in the end it really just matters how much money your willing to spend.
Nohup
Well-Known Member
Go Big or Go Home.
Heavy-Duty stainless (with lid), big enough for full boils without boil-overs.
Get a good blichmann burner to go with it.
Enjoy easy relaxing brewing.
Heavy-Duty stainless (with lid), big enough for full boils without boil-overs.
Get a good blichmann burner to go with it.
Enjoy easy relaxing brewing.
& an empty wallet. That Blichman stuff doesn't come cheap. It's fine if you make enough to afford it & need an excuse to get the really cool toys. Most don't have that kinda scratch. Buy if you can,seals if you must. Both will produce good or bad beer equally.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
In my experience, an 8 gallon kettle is rather limiting. You can't do longer boils for batches, since you won't want to go above 7-7.5 gallons at the start of the boil (even with fermcap). If you factor in your loss to trub and such (in fermenter) and want to get 5.5-6 gallons into primary, your limitations are even greater. Those two extra gallons of headspace is a lot more valuable than you might think.
Personally, I get 6.75-7 gallons into primary. With loss to hardware and such, that means I usually end the boil at about 7-7.5 gallons. Luckily, my keggle can easily handle ~14 gallons at the start of the boil.
I really do like my Blichmann burners...
As unionrdr says, Blichmann gear can be costly. It's well engineered, and great if you don't have any tools, and cannot use a drill to save your life. Otherwise, with some decent thought, you can make a really nice kettle/keggle for less money. Depending on the option you go with, though, the cost difference could be rather small.
Personally, I get 6.75-7 gallons into primary. With loss to hardware and such, that means I usually end the boil at about 7-7.5 gallons. Luckily, my keggle can easily handle ~14 gallons at the start of the boil.
I really do like my Blichmann burners...
As unionrdr says, Blichmann gear can be costly. It's well engineered, and great if you don't have any tools, and cannot use a drill to save your life. Otherwise, with some decent thought, you can make a really nice kettle/keggle for less money. Depending on the option you go with, though, the cost difference could be rather small.
FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
In my experience, an 8 gallon kettle is rather limiting. You can't do longer boils for batches, since you won't want to go above 7-7.5 gallons at the start of the boil (even with fermcap). If you factor in your loss to trub and such (in fermenter) and want to get 5.5-6 gallons into primary, your limitations are even greater. Those two extra gallons of headspace is a lot more valuable than you might think.
Personally, I get 6.75-7 gallons into primary. With loss to hardware and such, that means I usually end the boil at about 7-7.5 gallons. Luckily, my keggle can easily handle ~14 gallons at the start of the boil.
I really do like my Blichmann burners...
As unionrdr says, Blichmann gear can be costly. It's well engineered, and great if you don't have any tools, and cannot use a drill to save your life. Otherwise, with some decent thought, you can make a really nice kettle/keggle for less money. Depending on the option you go with, though, the cost difference could be rather small.
True on the 8 gallon pot, i guess it depends on your end goal. For me my goal every brew is to get around 5.5 gallons into the fermenter, so that i end up with as close to 5 gallons as possible since i am kegging. If your bottling, having extra beer isn't a big deal, i dont want to keg 5 gallons then still have to set all my bottling stuff up to do the other gallon
I'd say a 8 gallon is probably suitable for 95% of the things you will want to do for 5 gallon batches, and for $20 bucks who cares? Worst case at some point you want to start doing larger than 5 gallon batches, just turn your aluminum one into a Laudering tun or pot for boiling water for mashing/sparging ...
With all of the savings over a Blichmann (local brew shop has 10 gal for $329) you can get a good burner, make a Igloo mash tun, AND buy an entire kegging setup and still have money left over. All of those things actually assist in making better beer than the difference you'll see having a blinged out Blichmann over a cheap $20 aluminum pot, IMO. Keggles are definately another option, just throwing out the super economical one at $20.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I fill two 3 gallon kegs... 
FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
I fill two 3 gallon kegs...
Ha, yea that makes more sense then, i wouldnt attempt to do 6 gallons in a 8 gallon pot...its already too close(but feasible) doing 6.5 gallon boils to get 5 Gallons with Fermcap.
pohldogg
Well-Known Member
+1 to the 10 gal winware. It's durable and cheap. I'd say to get a less expensive kettle while you figure out your brewing style. It would stink to get a blichmann now for 5 gal batches just to find out in a year you'd rather brew 10.
Much appreciate the input, everyone!!
At this point, I'm leaning towards a 10 gallon megapot from Northern brewer - at $180, I'm saving about $160 vs the 10 gallon Blichman, which I can apply to a Blichman Burner (anyone have any other recommendations for a burner?)
Here's what I'm looking at buying so far; with shipping, it comes to around $550. Ugh, gonna need to really think about this for awhile
18" Plastic Paddle
Edit $3.50
Three-Piece Airlock
Edit $1.25
Star San 16 oz
$11.50
PRECUT 3/8" Clear Hi-temp Tubing - 3 ft
$3.90
Beer Bottles 12 oz.
Edit $11.99
Plain Gold Crown Caps - 144 count
Edit $3.50
Megapot with Ball Valve/Brewmometer (8, 10, 15, 20, 25 Gallon)
Megapot
1 x 10 Gallon MegaPot w/ ball valve $182.99
Black IPA Extract Kit w/ Specialty Grains
Base Kit $44.95
6.5 Gallon Fermenting Bucket
Bucket
1 x 6.5 Gallon Fermenting Bucket $12.99
Drilled Lid
1 x Grommeted Lid For 6.5 Gallon Bucket $2.99
Airlocks
1 x Three-Piece Airlock $1.25
Fermometer
1 x Fermometer $2.99
Edit $20.22 $20.22
50' Copper Chiller Immersion Coil
$78.99
EDIT:
Bayou Classic SP10 $49.99
At this point, I'm leaning towards a 10 gallon megapot from Northern brewer - at $180, I'm saving about $160 vs the 10 gallon Blichman, which I can apply to a Blichman Burner (anyone have any other recommendations for a burner?)
Here's what I'm looking at buying so far; with shipping, it comes to around $550. Ugh, gonna need to really think about this for awhile
18" Plastic Paddle
Edit $3.50
Three-Piece Airlock
Edit $1.25
Star San 16 oz
$11.50
PRECUT 3/8" Clear Hi-temp Tubing - 3 ft
$3.90
Beer Bottles 12 oz.
Edit $11.99
Plain Gold Crown Caps - 144 count
Edit $3.50
Megapot with Ball Valve/Brewmometer (8, 10, 15, 20, 25 Gallon)
Megapot
1 x 10 Gallon MegaPot w/ ball valve $182.99
Black IPA Extract Kit w/ Specialty Grains
Base Kit $44.95
6.5 Gallon Fermenting Bucket
Bucket
1 x 6.5 Gallon Fermenting Bucket $12.99
Drilled Lid
1 x Grommeted Lid For 6.5 Gallon Bucket $2.99
Airlocks
1 x Three-Piece Airlock $1.25
Fermometer
1 x Fermometer $2.99
Edit $20.22 $20.22
50' Copper Chiller Immersion Coil
$78.99
EDIT:
Bayou Classic SP10 $49.99
ReverseApacheMaster
Well-Known Member
I also vote for the 32qt tamale steamer if you're starting out, limiting yourself to five gallon batches (give or take a gallon) and you have a way to get to a boil with it. For partial boils, what you are probably doing now, it's not hard to reach boil in that steamer. If you see yourself getting even slightly more advanced with your brewing you will have to figure out how to boil 6-7.5 gallons of wort in that steamer. It will do it and it can be done on a coil stove but it will take a very long time and might damage the coil as it did mine. If you have a gas stove, you're probably ok. If you have a glasstop stove, forget it. You will break the glass with that much weight.
If you don't have a good way to hit a boil in it, you might as well get yourself a turkey fryer to use as a boil set up. I don't think the aluminum in that tamale steamer is thick enough to survive on a turkey fryer but you can usually find a fryer with the pot for around $40-60. That will get you from partial boils to full boils. If you decide you need to do larger batches than five gallons, you can buy a larger kettle or make a keggle and use the same burner as a heat source.
If you don't have a good way to hit a boil in it, you might as well get yourself a turkey fryer to use as a boil set up. I don't think the aluminum in that tamale steamer is thick enough to survive on a turkey fryer but you can usually find a fryer with the pot for around $40-60. That will get you from partial boils to full boils. If you decide you need to do larger batches than five gallons, you can buy a larger kettle or make a keggle and use the same burner as a heat source.
EvilDeadAsh
Well-Known Member
Same with the kettles, Bayou Classic makes much cheaper burners. The SP10 will run you about $50 on Amazon, and works great.
Greenbasterd
Well-Known Member
i went cheap and got the thin gauge 32quart SS pots. there pretty slim... they scorch a lil on the bottom. but no real problems so far.. prolly 10 batches gone i nto it
Nice find - just dropped the Blichmann burner and added this; saved $100 immediately!!
Lgaddy44
Well-Known Member
I was able to buy an 11gal SS Bayou for around $70 off of Amazon. I spent around $100 on thermometer, 3pc ball valve, and sight glass, from Bargain Fittings. I'm very happy with the setup, and it should keep me going for a long time to come. Much cheaper if you can DIY, and it allows you to get more familiar with your gear, IMO.
Darwin18
Well-Known Member
I have a 10G Megapot that I also purchased from Northern Brewer last January, and I'm very pleased with it. I would recommend purchasing the Mega Pot with the thermometer. I use my kettle for heating mash and sparge water and it's very useful to have.
I would also suggest a cheaper alternative to the Blichman Burner. In my opinion, that's a luxury pick. I picked up a Bayou burner for less than $50 that does the job well.
You could take the difference and spend in it on a good immersion chiller, which you can either make or buy. They're very very useful.
Brewing isn't cheap but the equipment you're buying should last you a lot of batches. If you have the funds and ability, please consider temperature control even if it just the swamp cooler method.
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