Keggle

[Riles8148]

I am planning on buying a keg to make a keggle....anyone aware of some solid how to information?

 

[bengerman]

from what i've seen, take a standard keg, cut a large, round hole in the top, fill it with wort.

someone did post on here the importance of de-burring the lip.


can you be more specific on the parts you're looking to have clarified?

 

[SpikeBrewing]

I first got into the homebrew business by making keggles. What do you want to know? You'll be hard pressed to find a better reference on the subject than myself

 

[dominant159]

I first got into the homebrew business by making keggles. What do you want to know? You'll be hard pressed to find a better reference on the subject than myself

What's the best location for a ball valve and thermometer in relation to the keg handles?

 

[sivdrinks]

Also, would an 11 inch hole be to small for some reason, it's the lid size I currently have. Doing BIAB. Brewingwithbobby has some good vids on YouTube.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

What's the best location for a ball valve and thermometer in relation to the keg handles?

Also, would an 11 inch hole be to small for some reason, it's the lid size I currently have. Doing BIAB. Brewingwithbobby has some good vids on YouTube.

If you plan on only doing 10gal batches then I would place the couplers vertically in between the handles. BUT make sure that they aren't right above the little openings around the bottom ring. Heat will build up and escape out of those holes and you don't want your couplers right above them. If you plan on doing smaller batches having the couplers both at the bottom might be better suited.

Off hand I can't remember how big I made the top holes but the key is to make it AS LARGE AS POSSIBLE. I don't care how smooth and well you deburr the top it will still be sharp and you will cut the **** out of your hands. Give your self as much room as you can to work with. I always recommended putting a piece of rubber house around the top hole so you don't cut yourself.

 

[Golddiggie]

The keggles that the LHBS I shop at has some kind of black trim material along the cut opening. Looks like it helps it to make a better seal as well as protects the edges (or protects you from the cut edge). Any idea as to what they used? I want to make sure whatever I use is safe at least to boiling wort temps, or at least 250F.

I cut my keggle to be opening to just over 12" the first time. It's as large an opening as I could get with the tool I used. I have another tool coming (air cutoff tool) that i plan to use to get the opening larger. I figure that I should be able to get within .5"-1" from the edge this way.

 

[mccumath]

The keggles that the LHBS I shop at has some kind of black trim material along the cut opening. Looks like it helps it to make a better seal as well as protects the edges (or protects you from the cut edge). Any idea as to what they used? I want to make sure whatever I use is safe at least to boiling wort temps, or at least 250F.

I cut my keggle to be opening to just over 12" the first time. It's as large an opening as I could get with the tool I used. I have another tool coming (air cutoff tool) that i plan to use to get the opening larger. I figure that I should be able to get within .5"-1" from the edge this way.

I used a product similar to the black stuff you are talking about to cover metal roof edging on a dog kennel. I used flexible RV trim cover, like the stuff you see around the edges of doors, slideouts, etc. Metal clips (u-shaped) placed right next to eachother coated in plastic so that it holds on whatever you put it on. ...pretty smart really... Got it from the local RV supply shop by the foot.

I cut an 11.5" hole in mine and duburred with a regular grinding wheel and sandpaper. Can run my arm all the way around without cutting myself. Just dont grind the edge into a knife point, but perpindicular to the top and bottom edge. Clean up with a couple grades of sandpaper, and done. Not sure why others have had problems with this. By taking a little extra time to grind and sand should alleviate any problems... My 2 cents.

Ryan M.

 

[Golddiggie]

I cleaned up the edge on the opening on mine already. I just want to make it a bit better/bigger than it currently is. It's not 100% round (only slighly 'off') with this time. With the second cutting, it should be much better. I will use the flap disc I used the first time to deburr and make the edge human safe. :rockin: With the right disc, it's easy to do.

 

[mccumath]

I cleaned up the edge on the opening on mine already. I just want to make it a bit better/bigger than it currently is. It's not 100% round (only slighly 'off') with this time. With the second cutting, it should be much better. I will use the flap disc I used the first time to deburr and make the edge human safe. :rockin: With the right disc, it's easy to do.

Exactly. Just was not sure how one could debur and clean up the edge and it still be sharp enough to cut someone. Just wasnt making sense to me...

 

[Golddiggie]

Exactly. Just was not sure how one could debur and clean up the edge and it still be sharp enough to cut someone. Just wasnt making sense to me...

They must be using the wrong tool for the job

Just like (IMO) people make cutting the opening more complicated than it needs to be by making jigs and such. I got damned close to a perfect round opening (can only tell its not by measuring) simply by resting the wheel guard against the inside of the keg collar. Just walk around the keg as you cut aand it's done. I'll do pretty much the same with the 3" cutting tool over this weekend or next (brewing Saturday, so maybe Sunday).

Any good alternate sources for the trim material? Was hoping to find it on Amazon, but not getting good search results.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

I cleaned up the edge on the opening on mine already. I just want to make it a bit better/bigger than it currently is. It's not 100% round (only slighly 'off') with this time. With the second cutting, it should be much better. I will use the flap disc I used the first time to deburr and make the edge human safe. :rockin: With the right disc, it's easy to do.

A piece of rubber hose (maybe 1/4" or so) wrapped around the edge would work well. No matter how well you deburr it the kettle will still be sharp. It's a 1.2mm thick piece of metal that has an edge. If you could roll it that would be money!!

 

[Golddiggie]

I don't have a sharp edge issue. Looking to get a more solid mate to the lid is all. Think I'll just get some small diameter silicone tuning and use that.

 

[mccumath]

Yeah, no sharp edge issue here either. Some 120, then 400 grit sandpaper all around the edge works great. A flap disk would have worked well, but I did not want to go back to Lowes again that day. I can run a finger (or my arm) all the way around the lip at any angle and experience no lacerations/scratches/etc.

Not trying to be "that guy" but really, if one takes the time, no issues at all, 1.2mm or not. And yeah, rolled would be pretty awesome!

I did build a jig, more for the safety aspect that anything else. Seemed much safer IMO to have a solid mount for the grinder so that if it did catch up (i.e. device for cutting things square for cutting a round hole), it would not go far. With a smaller wheel, probably not too much of an issue, but at 4", just seemed like a better idea. Worked well for me, and I would suggest others do the same; to each their own.

Golddiggie: Just a question, are you using the lid sealed really tight for getting boiling temps faster/saving on propane? Maintaining mash temps? Just wondering what the reasoning is.

Ryan M.

 

[Golddiggie]

I picked up enough wheels and such when I was getting things from Lowes so it wasn't an issue later. The 80 grit flap wheel made short work of making the edge nice and safe. I also have a 120 grit flap wheel for when I need/want to use it.

If you use the grinder properly you can do really good curves without much issue. You just don't try to force too much of the disc into what you're cutting. zjust enough to go through a little (maybe 1/4" deep) and thats it.

I want a better seal for both kegs (one is my mash tun, the new one will be a boil keggle). I plan to insulate the mash tun lid before using it. For the keggle, it's only to help get it up to a boil faster and with less gas use. Although the Blichmann burners do use less gas than the Bayou burner I was using. Heats better too, IME.

 

[mccumath]

Yeah, i made about 10 passes with the grinder the way you describe. Little bits at a time. With the jig, there is more to hang on to also.

My favorite keggle thusfar is BierMunchers. Have you seen that thing? Gotta look it up if you have not seen it!

 

[Riles8148]

Wow, thanks for all the feedback...from what I can gather is this:
-cut a large hole on top of keg
-sand the edge or put a rubber strip around it so it doesnt cut you

I can handle this so far....

More questions:
-how do I successfully install a spout/faucet
-where does the faucet need to be placed from the bottom
-explanation of what a hops net is and what I need to make this

 

[mccumath]

Here are a couple of links that explain how to cut the hole, where to drill holes for valves/dip tubes in a normal Sanke Keg (i.e. similar to a Budweiser keg, etc). It includes measurements, etc, and I used a step bit to drill the holes for the valve. I ordered all the parts from www.brewhardware.com. Also here is my take on a hop sock from a couple of the pieces from the keg you are about to cut up. Anyways, just a couple of ideas, I imagine you will get various other methods too, but this is how I did it and I am very happy.

Ryan M

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/keggle-conversion-project-finished-288606/

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/easy-sanke-dip-tube-hop-sock-296701/

 

[passedpawn]

Regarding cutting the top off, I recommend using a jig. I know that you can rest the grinder against the lip, but if the lip isn't completely round, you won't get a good circle. I just did 3 more a week ago with this very simple jig, and it works a charm (I've done about 10 kegs with the same jig).

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/simplest-keggle-cutting-jig-143048/

 

[Golddiggie]

PVC and boiling hot wort, IMO, is not a safe combination. PVC becomes soft, and starts to fail at 180F...

My hop spider (I thought I had rotated the image):

Broken-down for storage:

The first one I made in use:

As for where to put the valve, I would place it according to where you want the dip tube to pick up from and such. The ball valve should be in a 'safe' place relative to the burner element. Not difficult with a keggle.

As for passedpawn's jig, it's probably one of the better one's I've seen. I ended up just using a PVC T fitting on the first keg top cutting (did a damned good job with an air powered right angle grinder. Since I don't have any good tools, like a saws other than a small hacksaw, it's not really viable for me to make something from wood. At least not where I'm currently living. Use whatever makes you more comfortable cutting the top of the keg. With the tool I have coming, I'll be able to get under the rolled lip and get a better cut on it. At least that's the plan.

I also plan to clean, polish, and get my keg nice and shiny like mccumath has done... Only difference is mine says "Molson" on it... Let me tell you, that sucker was NASTY inside... A 24 hour PBW solution soak and a scotch-brite pad made short work of it though. It was all over the inside, not just the lower part... I say 'blame Canada' on that one.

 

[lamppa]

No matter how well you deburr it the kettle will still be sharp.

disagree - just use a die grinder and round it off a bit, then use sand paper and smooth it out quick. mine is far from sharp and I dont have any crap on the edge to catch trub and etc.

 

[passedpawn]

I use a flap disk on my grinder to take the edge off. Works fine, nice and rounded.

 

[passedpawn]

For the hop spider, I just pushed a piece of copper pipe through a PVC toilet flange. I'll bet I've used this exact setup for 75 batches of beer (bags last 10-ish batches). The nice thing about using the copper pipe instead of the 3 or 4 arms is it's really easy to slide out, and then the thing stores perfectly inside the keggle.

 

[Golddiggie]

I'm still avoiding PVC for my spider. I'm sure yours works as you wish, and such but I don't have any issue with storing mine either. The first one I made, I wrenched the nuts nice and tight. I made one for my brew buddy and he goes finger tight so it's easy to take apart after. 6" diameter stainless ring, three 6" long stainless threaded rods, stainless nuts and lock washers and a stainless worm clamp (thumb screw, so no tools required there)... I think the worm clamp is 400 series stainless, but the rest is all 303, 304, or 316 stainless (I'd have to check to see exactly). I did go a bit 'nuts' in that I drilled and tapped the rings so that the threaded rods would be easier to use. Acorn nuts on the inside to protect the bag from getting ripped too. I could have used lock nuts that had plastic inserts, but not keen on the idea of that type of plastic coming that close to boiling hot wort.

I also can clean the entire thing by tossing it into the PBW solution I typically make post brew-day. I put the smaller items into the kettle I use, so that I can get every part of the valves and fittings clean. Plus I run it through the plate chiller, so I make a few gallons.

Either way, I'm sure if you checked out a dozen different home brewer's hop spiders, you'd find close to the same number of different designs/implementations of a hop spider. None of them are wrong, as long as they do their job.

 

[passedpawn]

I'm still avoiding PVC for my spider.

Yea, I'd prefer SS for mine, just haven't found the right piece for that yet. I'm sure I will at some point.

 

[Golddiggie]

I do have a 'spare' 6" diameter, 2" deep ring, already drilled (two of the holes are tapped, couldn't get the third done due to tool limitations)... The holes are 1/4-20 thread. I also have spare worm clamps. The ones that are more 'spare' use the standard hex head to close/open them. The holes are space .5" from one edge, so you can flip it and have the top higher, or lower, and adjust it's vertical position a bit.

I find that the 6" opening is really nice for dumping up to a couple of ounces of hops at a time. I use toss-away drinking cups to measure the hops. I have my eyes on a slightly larger ring set that I'll probably get soon. Just no point in be getting it until I'll be going to where the drill press is.

If you're interested in the ring, or parts, PM me...

 

[kosmokramer]

I picked up two kegs the other day, where is the cheapest place to order the couplers, close nipples, pick up tube, valve, sight glass, and thermometer? is it all needed? is welded "better" than weldless? i am a union steelworker so the cost of welding is not an issue.

sorry op, not trying to hijack but this thread is perfect timing for me

 

[Golddiggie]

kosmokramer, where to get the hardware depends on what you plan to do with the kegs/keggles. If just for the boil, check out Bargain Fitting's site. If you plan to use one as a mash tun, check out the false bottoms (and setups) from NorCal. You can reach out to Jaybird (the technical man behind NorCal's products) to get advice on what to go with for the false bottom.

For the sight glass, that really depends. I'm making my own since I cannot find one exactly as I want.

As for which is better: welded or no weld, that depends on who you ask. They both have advantages, depending on how they are done. I've been using the weldless fittings so far. But, I plan on testing out my sight glass in a welded configuration too.

 

[Bobby_M]

With access to cheap, good welding, there's no way I'd go weldless. Most people use weldless because of the difficulty of finding a good welder for a reasonable price. I currently think I have the best sightglass design out there for the price but of course I'm biased. It's probably best to shop around and see how few orders you can get away with due to the incremental shipping.

 

[Golddiggie]

With access to cheap, good welding, there's no way I'd go weldless. Most people use weldless because of the difficulty of finding a good welder for a reasonable price.

I've actually located one of those... Only issue is he's about 30-45 minutes each way for me (either home or work). With weldless, I can do it all at home.

BTW, kosmokramer, look on the vendor page/section off of the main forums page. Plenty of places there to get goodies of all kinds. You can also search the forums for feedback about the vendors listed to see how people's experiences have been.