Keggle conversion

[stooges56]

I just got a used keg but didn't notice that there were holes in the bottom of it. I plan on using it in an electric setup. Do you think I can just turn it upside down and cut off the dip tube inside? The valve is still in place, not damaged. Hope it can still work.

 

[Landshark67]

Short answer is Yes.

The key is the o-ring seal in the dip tube spear. The o-ring size is nothing special. What You need to do is find another o-ring that can handle the high heat of boiling. I'm not sure what grade of material the o-ring is made of but there are other compounds that can handle 212F and above. Otherwise, you are good to go!

IMO - once you start down this route you should consider a dump valve off the bottom. You can essentially dump hop/trub before transferring to your fermenter.

Brew on!

 

[P-J]

Yes. Turn it upside down - But - After you remove the spear - use a Tri-Clover 2" cap on the opening along with a tri-clover clamp & an o-ring.

http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-Cap.html
http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-Clamp.html
http://www.brewershardware.com/Silicone-O-Ring-for-F1.html

Hope this helps you.

 

[stooges56]

Good ideas. I was thinking maybe I'll use it for my mash tun or hot liquor tank instead of the boil kettle

 

[stooges56]

Thanks so much for your help!

 

[P-J]

Good ideas. I was thinking maybe I'll use it for my mash tun or hot liquor tank instead of the boil kettle

Ha.!
Rig it up with a 5500W electric element. Then get a PID and set it up as an electric kettle. You would be amazed with the system that results. The benefit? No more propane and you have absolute control of your brewery.

Just saying...

 

[stooges56]

That's the plan! I have two other kegs in good condition. I was planning on trying to follow Tiber's E-build with weldless components. Hopefully it works out!

 

[P-J]

That's the plan! I have two other kegs in good condition. I was planning on trying to follow Tiber's E-build with weldless components. Hopefully it works out!

It can and will work out for you. (I drew the diagram(s) for his brewery)
It's not rocket science. If I can help in your planning, please let me know.

Wishing you great success.

P-J

 

[stooges56]

Yeah I was thinking about using his diagram. I need to brush on up on my electrical skills first. The only thing I think I would add is a temp probe for the mash temp too. Is it necessary?

 

[P-J]

Yeah I was thinking about using his diagram. I need to brush on up on my electrical skills first. The only thing I think I would add is a temp probe for the mash temp too. Is it necessary?

No, it's not needed at all. It really will not accurately measure your mash temp either. When you use a keg as your MASH tun, just monitor your HLT temp and recirculate your MASH water through a HERMS coil in the HLT. This way you can keep your MASH temp spot on.

Just saying...

 

[stooges56]

Yeah I kinda thought that's all I needed to do but wasn't sure. Sounds good. I'll go with the original diagram. Thanks alot!

 

[P-J]

Tiber_Brew's setup (Electric brewery plans - need help) is for a 50A - 240V feed. If you will be using a 30A - 240V feed, the diagram changes and the cost would be a lot less for the build.

If that's the case (30A) let me know. I might be able to show a simple setup for you.

 

[stooges56]

What determines which feed I should use? I do not feel comfortable trying to install the breaker and outlet myself so I'm going to call an electrician this week. Will they know which type my panel can accommodate? I should have them install a GFCI breaker too right?