Kegging questions

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Now that I have my brewing cycle down, I really need to start kegging. I understand concept behind it, but not smart on all the parts. I will carb at two levels (2.4 and 3.0...estimations). The plan now is to get a 3-gauge regulator (two out). My questions:

Will I need two manifolds to carb at two different levels?
What size should I go with (1/4 or 5/16)?
Is it best to put CO2 canister inside or outside the cold area?

Additionally, if you think I missed a question, I will take any and all other comments and suggestions.

Thanks!
 
Now that I have my brewing cycle down, I really need to start kegging. I understand concept behind it, but not smart on all the parts. I will carb at two levels (2.4 and 3.0...estimations). The plan now is to get a 3-gauge regulator (two out). My questions:

Will I need two manifolds to carb at two different levels?

If you're going to try to carb more than one keg at each level, you'll need something to accommodate that. Manifolds like this, or splitters, or something so you can feed more than one keg w/ the same pressure.

What size should I go with (1/4 or 5/16)?

5/16. I like to use the red CO2 lines; makes it very clear what's what inside the keezer. I used to use clear lines, like the red ones better.

Is it best to put CO2 canister inside or outside the cold area?

That depends on your setup. I started by having it in the keezer; I realized it cost me a spot for a keg, so I moved it outside and fed the CO2 to the inside of the keezer using a bulkhead shank; some just drill a hole through the collar and feed the line through there.

It doesn't hurt to have inside, and it's a cleaner look.

I've attached a few pics below showing different options.

The first shows my old keezer; I used to have a manifold in there to distribute CO2 to different kegs, eventually went to secondary regulators to do that. You can see, no CO2 tank inside, it's feeding from outside.

keezerinside.jpg

Old keezer died; below is the new one. You can see I moved the secondary regulators to the outside; this makes it easier to get kegs in and out, and allows me to both monitor and change pressure easily and without opening the lid.

newkeezer3.jpg

Inside of the new keezer; there are four lines leading into the keezer from 4 secondary regulators. The bottom line feeds a small keg full of water I used to pressurize my glass rinser.

The second line from the bottom isn't connected in the pic; I typically use it to force carb, or to provide serving pressure to a 5th keg. I have five faucets, thus 5 feeding kegs.

The third line from the bottom feeds the manifold on the right, and the top line feeds the manifold on the left. That allows me to have two different pressures on two sets of kegs if I want, in addition to that fifth line.

I'm thinking that something like this is probably what you're looking for.

newkeezer7.jpg


Here's the final version; glass rinser is on the left of the keezer, fed by a pressure line from the small keg inside.

keezer10.jpg
 
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So if I am thinking about this right, you are running 4 different CO2 levels for your beers. If I wanted two levels, I'd just need one secondary regulator. As for the manifolds/splitters, I'd only need one if I wanted to carb more than one keg at the same level provided by the regulator. In my case, I may have two Ales at one carb level and two tripels at another so I would need primary and secondary regulator and two manifolds (like the ones you have) to provide each pressure to two kegs.

Btw, I do like the red CO2 lines and your keezer looks nice--I plan to do something similar when I get all my parts.
 
So if I am thinking about this right, you are running 4 different CO2 levels for your beers.

Well, I have the capability for that. As it turns out, I never needed more than two secondary regulators. I had this idea I'd need to do many different pressures, at least to this point it's overkill. I could have probably gotten away with three, and when I bought it, I didn't have any inkling I'd use one for the glass rinser.

If I wanted two levels, I'd just need one secondary regulator. As for the manifolds/splitters, I'd only need one if I wanted to carb more than one keg at the same level provided by the regulator. In my case, I may have two Ales at one carb level and two tripels at another so I would need primary and secondary regulator and two manifolds (like the ones you have) to provide each pressure to two kegs.

As @Rev2010 notes, if you have a 3-gauge regulator with two gauges controlling two different pressures, you're there. You simply need a manifold or splitter if you want to feed more than one keg with the same pressure.

Btw, I do like the red CO2 lines and your keezer looks nice--I plan to do something similar when I get all my parts.

Thanks. Check out the link in my sig about how to build a keezer w/o gluing down the collar.
 
Now that I have my brewing cycle down, I really need to start kegging. I understand concept behind it, but not smart on all the parts. I will carb at two levels (2.4 and 3.0...estimations). The plan now is to get a 3-gauge regulator (two out). My questions:

Will I need two manifolds to carb at two different levels?
What size should I go with (1/4 or 5/16)?
Is it best to put CO2 canister inside or outside the cold area?

Additionally, if you think I missed a question, I will take any and all other comments and suggestions.

Thanks!


It does not need to be that complicated, especially for a start. All you need is a regulator at CO2 tank, and a correctly sized beer output line off keg, and a picnic nozzle.

I had a 6 manifold set with a lot of piping at one point, but maintaining it was too much trouble. The beer tastes just as good with the simple system.

If you are into doing a nice bar presentation,.. all the taps and stuff do make it nice, that is good too, takes more effort and gear of course.
 
Perhaps.
Secondary regulators have a minimum differential pressure spec - for Taprite secondary regulators that's 5 psi...

Cheers!
Can you expand? I am still learning what all I need. I know that I will have 1 CO2 tank and 2 kegs (1 keg @ 2.4 and the other at 4.0).

I remember seeing a post on getting enough tubing--for some reason I remember "10 ft and you will be fine" when it comes to pouring a good beer without too much head. Is that 10ft from keg to tap (liquid line)?

Sanke kegs and flow control faucets,,,,you can thank me later
Unfortunately, I am not to the point I am ready for sanke kegs.
 
If you are just starting go with a basic setup till you get it figured out,,you could expand later.Nitro will be a totally different system..
 
Can you expand? I am still learning what all I need. I know that I will have 1 CO2 tank and 2 kegs (1 keg @ 2.4 and the other at 4.0).

I remember seeing a post on getting enough tubing--for some reason I remember "10 ft and you will be fine" when it comes to pouring a good beer without too much head. Is that 10ft from keg to tap (liquid line)?[...]

The minimum differential pressure requirement means whatever pressure you set your primary regulator will dictate the maximum available pressure from the secondary regulator. So if you want to keep, say, 13 psi on one keg using the primary regulator, a secondary regulator will only be able to deliver ~8 psi. For some combinations of beers that could work - a pale on the primary and a stout on the secondary, for example, or a wheat on the primary and a pale on the secondary. Other combinations could prove tricky.

As for the beer line suggestion, that 10 feet of 3/16" ID tubing will usually work well up to around 11-12 psi which is generally what folks use for dispensing pales. A good rule of thumb is one foot per psi...

Cheers!
 
As for the beer line suggestion, that 10 feet of 3/16" ID tubing will usually work well up to around 11-12 psi which is generally what folks use for dispensing pales. A good rule of thumb is one foot per psi...

Cheers!

Awesome! Thanks for this. I guess my next question is where is a good resource to find what psi I should use for specific beers? I know what CO2 volumes I want, but I need to convert that to psi to make sure I can meet the mark on my carb level.
 
What an amazing chart! I think I will end up keeping my kegs at 40F so 29psi and 11psi...40 ft of beer line.

Is there any general rule of thumb on the gas line? or just get it to where it needs to go?
 
Pretty much "get it to where it needs to go".
And you can use any diameter line - I use braided clear Tygon tubing 3/16" ID on all of my gas systems.
No need for anything larger...

Cheers!
 
5/16. I like to use the red CO2 lines; makes it very clear what's what inside the keezer. I used to use clear lines, like the red ones better.

Mongoose,

I found this website: http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/

When I punch in the decimal for 5/16" hose, the number of feet it tells me to use skyrockets. While I see the correlation to the amount of space in the hose with the amount of pressure you need to push liquid through, why is that the case? Should I really be going 5/16"?
 
I think 5/16 is just for gas.. at least it is for me. The gas lines just need to be able to reach the kegs.. you should probably be using 3/16 for the beer line, and that is what you need to calculate for length.

I also second the flow control faucets..
 
Gotcha...makes sense.

I understand the term "flow control" but what does it actually do for the beer/pour? It must prevent/help something when filling a mug...or benefit me some how.
 
Gotcha...makes sense.

I understand the term "flow control" but what does it actually do for the beer/pour? It must prevent/help something when filling a mug...or benefit me some how.
Its a ball valve within the faucet. Instead of full blast pour like a regular faucet they're is a lever on the faucet that you can dial down the speed of the pour. It significantly reduces foaming issues and eliminates long 12 foot lines...they're a no brainer in my book. You go through all the trouble to build and brew beer...why fight with crappy pours when flow control solves the problem.

You also mentioned your not ready for sanke kegs. They're the same as cornys but a different design....if your ready for one your ready for the other.
 
It significantly reduces foaming issues and eliminates long 12 foot lines...they're a no brainer in my book.

If I get a flow control faucet, do I still do 1ft of beer line per psi?

You also mentioned your not ready for sanke kegs. They're the same as cornys but a different design....if your ready for one your ready for the other.

I was referring to financially. I just bought 2 cornys for the price of less than 1 sanke.
 
If I get a flow control faucet, do I still do 1ft of beer line per psi?

No...the 4 or 5 foot line that comes with a tower works...or just cut some line if using a faucet without a tower...of coure thats with a sanke that was made for beer...cornys are made for soda and we're "rigged" to work for beer back in the day...they stuck in the homebrew community. Now sankes are readily available when they weren't in the past...I've used both...trust me sanke work better

I was referring to financially. I just bought 2 cornys for the price of less than 1 sanke.
Buy once cry once... Yoiu talking about a difference of like $40 I think....not a killer for a something that will last as long as your kegging...plus resale if you get out brewing
 
An example of flow control faucets.. https://www.perlick.com/commercial/...iew/650ss-forward-sealing-flow-control-faucet
Yeah, back to the buy once cry once scenario here, but what a world of difference. From the forward-sealing aspect that means sooo much less mess, and better tasting beer that first pour after your taps haven't been used in *gasp* a few days, to the overall solid feel they have, it has been a great investment. I have 5 taps, so I did them one at a time over time, but they also have resale value after I'm gone (Many years from now I hope).

I also use Sanke kegs, mainly because I got ~12 of them at a great deal. I think one of the best parts is that it is easy to swap in a commercial keg as needed/wanted, and being able to bring my kegs somewhere easily to be put on just about any system. I think one of the biggest drawbacks is that they are tougher to get the hang of cleaning as you can't just look inside as easily and I at least can't get my arm inside to clean them. but I also have never had a stuck dip tube, or run into the leaks I see on some forum posts.

In all, find what works for you, make and enjoy good beer, and take all advice with a grain of salt.
 
An example of flow control faucets.. https://www.perlick.com/commercial/...iew/650ss-forward-sealing-flow-control-faucet
Yeah, back to the buy once cry once scenario here, but what a world of difference. From the forward-sealing aspect that means sooo much less mess, and better tasting beer that first pour after your taps haven't been used in *gasp* a few days, to the overall solid feel they have, it has been a great investment. I have 5 taps, so I did them one at a time over time, but they also have resale value after I'm gone (Many years from now I hope).

I also use Sanke kegs, mainly because I got ~12 of them at a great deal. I think one of the best parts is that it is easy to swap in a commercial keg as needed/wanted, and being able to bring my kegs somewhere easily to be put on just about any system. I think one of the biggest drawbacks is that they are tougher to get the hang of cleaning as you can't just look inside as easily and I at least can't get my arm inside to clean them. but I also have never had a stuck dip tube, or run into the leaks I see on some forum posts.

In all, find what works for you, make and enjoy good beer, and take all advice with a grain of salt.
As I'm sure you know cleaning is easy. Shoot some water down and swirl or a simple oxyclean soak works fine...A keg isnt a nasty fermentor...they clean easy
 
As I'm sure you know cleaning is easy. Shoot some water down and swirl or a simple oxyclean soak works fine...A keg isnt a nasty fermentor...they clean easy
Ah, but I do use 15.5 gal sanke kegs as fermenters also, so I built a DIY keg cleaner. I'm not saying it's hard, I'm just saying that especially when starting, the ability to see inside easily can be a boon. Figuring out poppets, clogged dip tubes, getting the seals right, and all of that other stuff seems a lot harder though.
 
Ah, but I do use 15.5 gal sanke kegs as fermenters also, so I built a DIY keg cleaner. I'm not saying it's hard, I'm just saying that especially when starting, the ability to see inside easily can be a boon. Figuring out poppets, clogged dip tubes, getting the seals right, and all of that other stuff seems a lot harder though.
Are you doing closed transfers from sanke to sanke. I was interested if that would work
 
Everybody is telling the correct details. Allow me to offer a bit of theory to help you put it all together. You need to balance your system. Keg pressure less friction loss through the line should equal a minimal number at the tap. Too low a tap pressure and it takes forever to pour a pint. Too high and the beer goes from liquid to foam at the tap. There are line calculators that will calculate for you. Take the calculator value and add 6 feet. You can make line shorter, you can't make it longer. Flow control is a part of the fine tuning process. It allows you to add or remove small amounts of back pressure once the gross adjustments are complete. (As in to adjust for a beer with a higher keg pressure, for instance) BTW, the line length calculators assume you're using bev tubing. Vinyl hose has a different friction coefficient and will yield different results. 3/16 Bev tubing at 12 feet is where I ended up. YMMV. Good luck.

https://www.kegerators.com/beer-line-calculator/
 
fwiw, I don't know what "Bev tubing" means, but that calculator clearly appears to be an exact clone of Mike Solty's calculator, which is based on standard solid PVC beer line...

Cheers!
bev tubing, beer line, potato, potatoe. The point is the calculator assumes vinyl tubing manufactured specifically to dispense beverages such as beer, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F11C6V1/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Not like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9YY7GT/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Because the friction along the walls of the tubing are different.
 
+1 on the Bev-seal ultra. Just make sure you get the quick disconnect fittings to go with it. Getting the tubing on to regular barbed fittings is a *****. It's not the easiest stuff to work with as it's stiffer than standard line but definitely worth it. You'll need a few more feet than regular tubing to balance your system because it has less resistance. I got tired of having to dump the first few oz's when the tap hadn't been used in more than a couple hours because of the plastic taste/smell. Besides I don't know what petrochemical it is but I'd prefer not ingesting it. Even if it's not at a level where you can taste or smell it there still has to be some leaching into the beer.
 
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