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mpizzurro

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Hey guys. New to HBT. Glad to be here. Have a couple of questions about kegging.
1 Does the tank and reg have to stay with the keg through the carbonation process?
2 What are the best sites to buy CO2 and kegs on?
3 Pin or Ball?
4 Appox how many kegs can be done off a 5 lb bottle ?
5 I have a scuba tank I used to use for paintball. It's still in great shape and I'm sure would pass hydo. Does anyone know if it can be converted for CO2 use?
Thanks
 
Hey guys. New to HBT. Glad to be here. Have a couple of questions about kegging.
1 Does the tank and reg have to stay with the keg through the carbonation process?
2 What are the best sites to buy CO2 and kegs on?
3 Pin or Ball?
4 Appox how many kegs can be done off a 5 lb bottle ?
5 I have a scuba tank I used to use for paintball. It's still in great shape and I'm sure would pass hydo. Does anyone know if it can be converted for CO2 use?
Thanks

1. The pressure will drop in the keg as more CO2 gets dissolved (force carbing), so you will need to keep adding more CO2 to maintain that pressure. You could leave the tank on throughout the carbonation, or you can keep hooking it back up every now and then. The second option will of course take longer. You can also prime the keg with sugar if you don't want to keep it on the gas. I personally don't like having the sediment that priming causes, so I force carb. I leave the keg (cold) on gas at 30psi for 2-3 days, then purge and set to 10psi for a couple days. Then it will be ready to drink.

2. Most homebrew supply sites sell used kegs at around $55 or so (Willam's Brewing, Rebel, Northern Brewer, Midwest...). The first place you should look is your LHBS. I got my empty CO2 tank on Amazon for $70.

3. Ball, the kegs are taller and slightly skinnier. (it really depends on your setup and amount of space) If your trying to fit as many kegs into your keezer as possible, or if your kegerator fit is tight, ball is the way to go.

4. 10 or so. (with force carbing)

5. Tanks are typically product specific, and most places won't fill the tank with a different gas. I'm not sure if it could be converted, but I doubt it.
 
Your scuba tank will need a "GCA320" valve, of the appropriate nipple size, and O-ring flange, to match the physical characteristics of the scuba valve.

And yes, check around on the conversion...........I'm researching the same thing now, and have found a fire extinguisher place that will hydro my old tank, and install my supplied valve, and do the fill for me.

It's an 80 cu.ft. aluminum tank.

Google "GCA320 valve", and you'll get lots of hits.
 
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