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kegging carbonated water (I know) but have some technical questions

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I am not positive what the intended outcome of adding the pickling lime is...but if it helps Chalk (calcium carbonate) will dissolve in carbonated water. When I have added Chalk to carbonated water, I give it a few days to carbonate then give the keg a good shake to mix and dissolve the chalk.
Yes I have tried this, found a lot of chalk in the bottom of my empty carbonated keg. Some must have dissolved though
 
well, for some reason... this comment and the talk of adding pickling lime to drinking water...

o_O Some countries are more protective toward consumers, for better and for worse.


i want to insist you use these on the first pour....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2220370531...qrbTF9rcy6500xxZLXPCh51nqesv|tkp:BFBMppj3t4Nh
$6 probably last you forever and prevent you having one of these installed as a solution for bad water treatment device....


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voice_prosthesis

edit: not that you'd need a milligram scale for a 5 gallon keg! but still....
 
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well, for some reason... this comment and the talk of adding pickling lime to drinking water...




i want to insist you use these on the first pour....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2220370531...qrbTF9rcy6500xxZLXPCh51nqesv|tkp:BFBMppj3t4Nh
$6 probably last you forever and prevent you having one of these installed as a solution for bad water treatment device....


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voice_prosthesis

edit: not that you'd need a milligram scale for a 5 gallon keg! but still....
Yes I'm always looking for a use of the hundreds of litmus paper strips I got before the pH meter.

The trick after ingesting caustic or acid is to wash the mouth / throat/ gullet out with a substance called diphoterine.

Saves many thousands in Intensive care, theatre time and rehab.
 
Yes I'm always looking for a use of the hundreds of litmus paper strips I got before the pH meter.

The trick after ingesting caustic or acid is to wash the mouth / throat/ gullet out with a substance called diphoterine.

Saves many thousands in Intensive care, theatre time and rehab.


so what you're saying is unless i see a thread where they're adding hydroflouric acid to drinking water, i should shut up?

if you use a ph meter for anything other then beer, you'll realize the strips are MUCH better....
 
so what you're saying is unless i see a thread where they're adding hydroflouric acid to drinking water, i should shut up?

if you use a ph meter for anything other then beer, you'll realize the strips are MUCH better....
To be honest I hardly use the meter during beer making although I should. pH strips great when I'm deciding is that starsan or PBW.

I'd recommend Hexafluorine for Hydrofluoric acid burns, it's slightly more specific for that one acid and they are fascinating but very very painful burns.
Diphoterine is really chemical witchcraft as it neutralises acids, bases, organic toxic chemicals, chillis, tear gas etc.
 
kinda like a ph meter buffer solution?
Well it's a multi aliphatic compound so can grab onto all kinds of different chemicals and disable their action. Tastes like slightly salty water, closely guarded secret and I don't fully understand it having been on a week long course with the developer but it's a game changer for chemical burns.
 
So I've gotten my 40 feet of Evabarrier line, and it still isn't working great for whatever reason. I have the psi turned up to 35 at this point. It still comes out in random spurts like air pockets are getting in the lines.
I put all 40 feet of line on the system btw.
Should I turn down the psi?

If I change the connection to my other keg it flows differently, despite the keg being the only variable. It comes out smoother and with less initial foam.

Any ideas? Could used kegs be the issue? Like is there a chance air is seeping in somewhere on the liquid out line on one keg but not the other?
 
Any ideas? Could used kegs be the issue? Like is there a chance air is seeping in somewhere on the liquid out line on one keg but not the other?


the dip tube o-ring could have a crack or something in it? for that matter the dip tube flange could be bent or deformed somehow....
 
this is probably a really stupid question
but how do I even tell if the dip tube has a problem?
is there a connection on the underside of the top of the keg?
Is it threaded on from underneath?
 
this is probably a really stupid question
but how do I even tell if the dip tube has a problem?
is there a connection on the underside of the top of the keg?
Is it threaded on from underneath?


no stupid questions for a beginner!

yeah, the post will un screw and there is a little o-ring underneath the dip tube...it could be missing or damaged...

if it's a used soda keg all the o-rings should be replaced, or your seltzer will probably have a mild root beer flavor to it....
 
So going back to the carbonation calculator.

35 psi and at 38 fahrenheit is going to be 4.8 vol.

Assuming you got the 4mm internal diameter eva barrier and have the tap 18 inches above the middle of the keg and want a US pint poured in 10 seconds the calculator estimates you need 14 foot of the beer line. This agrees with a previous posters figures.
An 18 second pour per pint needs 40 foot of line.
 
Thanks for the clarification on where that O ring will be, I will be removing that post as soon as I get home tonight
(long shot, but does anyone happen to know the size of that o ring? I work in a machine shop so we have about 9 million various o rings, I could easily grab a few, that way when I get home I can just replace it right away and not have to wait another day)

Yes I did get the 4mm ID, and it came in a 40' coil so I figured I may as well just try it all at first since I can easily cut it down later. Sounds like maybe I should cut it down. And yes I do see pockets of air, and it comes out of the tap as if there's pockets as well, constantly spurts the way one would expect while the lines are being filled, but it never goes away no matter how many pours I do.

edit: found another thread on here with O rings, it said #109, #111 and 417
I already replaced the huge one for the lid, and the ones on the outside of the posts, but not the one that isn't visible, so I'm guessing that would be the #109?
 
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I found an O ring similar but not quite close enough. The existing one was totally fried so I changed it anyway and will have to just order the right one. It was a little thinner and the ID seemed a tad big, but it actually sealed no worse than what I had.
 
I found an O ring similar but not quite close enough. The existing one was totally fried so I changed it anyway and will have to just order the right one. It was a little thinner and the ID seemed a tad big, but it actually sealed no worse than what I had.


well, you may just be drinking water, but the added carbonation attempt still makes it fun! don't leave me/us hangin if this gets solved or not ;) :bott:
 
I found an O ring similar but not quite close enough. The existing one was totally fried so I changed it anyway and will have to just order the right one. It was a little thinner and the ID seemed a tad big, but it actually sealed no worse than what I had.
Good plumbing stores have o-ring assortments, at least they used to. It's important to get the right size and thickness,* or you'll get leaks.
Once you know the right sizes, you can order them online too, in larger amounts. I haven't gone through that many of them over the years, including fixing other homebrewers' kegs.

Using keg lube is important, though!

* Original dip tube o-rings have a squarish profile, and look like as if 2 o-rings are stacked on top of each other. There's a narrow groove between the "top" and "bottom" section. Similar to airlock grommets for bucket lids, but much smaller.
They can be replaced by regular ones, having the correct thickness to make a positive seal.
 
I got some 109's off mcmaster carr in packs of (100), also got the 111's. They might as well be free in packs of 100, costs more to ship them.
I did both dip tubes last night. I took off one of the air in connections but couldn't really tell where the hell the o ring even was. It kind of looked like it was up inside the bore but I didn't want to start digging around in there since I'm not really having air in issues AFAIK.
Bottom line, the tapping is WAY better now with those new O rings, I don't get the spurting anymore, it just flows consistent, so those fried O rings were definitely letting air come in the line
For reference, here is a pic of one of the ones I replaced.
PXL_20221104_171715316.jpg
 
For reference, here is a pic of one of the ones I replaced.
Definitely damaged/broken. That's one of those original "double deck o-rings," technically a grommet, due to the groove in the middle.*
That caused headspace CO2 going into the liquid line, and all the foaming. Now start cranking up that pressure until you get to the carbonation level you crave.

* Yes, they can be replaced with regular o-rings of suitable thickness, as you just did.
 

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