Kegerator

[sasky7777]

I know that keezer’s are all the rage now, and ideally that’s what I’d like to do, but I live in a small house and don’t have the space. Does anyone have an idea on an ideal fridge size? I know there is a great resource for freezers but I can’t find anything on a fridge. I have a line on a 16.6 cubic foot all fridge unit. I want to put in 6 kegs with the tank outside. Also if anyone has any tips on figuring out where the coolant lines run I’d appreciate it. View attachment 608857

ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/prodinfo_pdf/stcloud/5995557286.pdf

 

[sasky7777]

So I found a full size fridge for cheap and it looks like it will hold at least 6 pin lock kegs. I want to leave the CO2 tank on the outside to make it easier to pressure transfer and use my bottling gun and also leave more room inside for beer. I have a few candidate locations to drill into the fridge. The side is hot when it runs and the cornstarch trick didn’t work, but the corners are not hot and I was thinking of going in trough the holes (yellow) where the shelves were mounted. Another option would be to remove the wires (red) and make that whole bigger. I can see on the bottom of the fridge where they come out. Last option is just somewhere in the back, it is noticeable colder than the sides.
Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[day_trippr]

With the make and model number one can figure out where the safe spots are by exploiting any of the big appliance parts stores diagrams...

[edit] Sorry, didn't realize the first post was for the actual unit shown in the second.
As that unit has an external condenser running up the back there's likely nothing in the side wall cavities, or the back wall above the evaporator, aside from the thermostat in the center. I have one fridge with a similar external condenser and was able to run gas/power/temp sensor stuff through the back wall via strategically located bulkheads to miss the condenser tubing...

Cheers!

 

[sasky7777]

I’m Leary about going through the side because it got warm, but are you suggesting that the shelf supports should be ok? I’m not sure how to get the back skin off yet, but then I should be able to see how high up the condenser goes.

 

[day_trippr]

The part guide shows there's nothing in the sides of the cabinet.
The condenser is the thin black tubing loopy thing hanging off the back of the cabinet in plain sight.
If you don't have that, then the diagram on page 6 doesn't match your unit, which puts everything in doubt...

Cheers!

 

[sasky7777]

Everything else matches the diagram, but this is the back, it is skinned in metal.

View attachment 617835

 

[sasky7777]

 

[day_trippr]

Well...if everything else matches up then perhaps I was misled by artistic licence in the drawing and the condenser is actually under the exterior skin in the back of the cabinet. That would definitely up the ante wrt drilling holes through the back, so I would go through the sides...

Cheers!

 

[sasky7777]

Thanks for the info. Just for my own knowledge, why are the sides getting hot if there are no lines there? Or is it just that there are likely no lines where the shelf support inserts are?

 

[day_trippr]

I'm going to guess with the condenser under the rear skin as implied by the drawing there might be some thermal effects elsewhere.
Or, the drawing is complete poopy and the condenser wraps around the sides...

Cheers!

 

[501irishred]

It sounds like you’re mixing the way your fridge cools with the way a chest freezer cools. A chest freezer uses lines that run back and forth against the walls as the evaporator coil, and facilitates all the “collars” to avoid hitting a line. Your fridge has an exposed evapoator coil (in the picture by the wires you suggested running by). The only “hidden” (2 total) lines will run directly between condensing section (the compressor section you have pictured) and the evaporator. The most likely reason for the warm sides is simply from warm air coming off condenser.

 

[sasky7777]

Ok, thanks for the tutorial. Through the side it is.