Keg Force Carbing Methods Illustrated

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I noted on the chart that if you went from primary right to keg at week zero, no matter how fast you carb, it will still take at least 3 weeks to taste decent. Therefore, why boost carb at all?

Not all beer needs to be in the keg for 3 weeks to taste decent. Seems a bold but silly thing to claim. Some will, some won't.

I use a different method to carbonate. I'll call it the "sliding scale" boost carbonation technique.

I rack to kegs and chill them overnight. Then I put them on the floor on their sides. I hook up gas and give them ~30 PSI. I roll them back and forth. The sound of the gas rushing in is obvious, and it slows after a few seconds. When the gas slows, I back the pressure off to ~20 and keep rolling until the gas slows. Then I back it off to 15 and keep rolling until the gas slows. Then I drop it to my target PSI and roll it some more.

I get nearly all the carbonation done in a few minutes that way. With a little practice there is little chance of overcarbonating this way. I've never overcarbonated with this method.

Then I stick them back in the keezer with the gas still on. The beer is (almost) properly carbonated immediately, and is drinkable immediately.
 
Not all beer needs to be in the keg for 3 weeks to taste decent. Seems a bold but silly thing to claim. Some will, some won't.

I use a different method to carbonate. I'll call it the "sliding scale" boost carbonation technique.

I rack to kegs and chill them overnight. Then I put them on the floor on their sides. I hook up gas and give them ~30 PSI. I roll them back and forth. When the gas slows, I back the pressure off to ~20 and keep rolling until the gas slows. Then I back it off to 15 and keep rolling until the gas slows. Then I drop it to my target PSI and roll it some more.

I get nearly all the carbonation done in a few minutes that way. With a little practice there is little chance of overcarbonating this way. I've never overcarbonated with this method.

Then I stick them back in the keezer with the gas still on. The beer is (almost) properly carbonated immediately, and is drinkable immediately.

Cool. That's why they call these discussion forums. I still stand behind the overall spirit of the quoted statement. Sure, there are some styles that drink well in shorter times but they are exception rather than rule. I also contend that almost 100% of beers benefit from 3 weeks of cold conditioning to where flavor improves. Admittedly everyone has a different tolerance for what "good enough" means. I would rather dispense best practices that cover the majority of situations.
 
I also contend that almost 100% of beers benefit from 3 weeks of cold conditioning to where flavor improves.

Why? What do you think is happening during those 3 weeks? If the keg is in a refrigerator, then the temperature is too low for the yeast to actively be doing anything. I suppose they could be falling out of suspension, which would affect the flavour (it'd be less "yeasty" after 3 weeks of cold-crashing), but you can achieve the exact same effect in much shorter order with a little gelatin after a day or two of chilling.

What's magical about a beer just sitting in a keg for 3 weeks at 32° F? What's happening that changing the beer's flavour, other than things falling out of solution (which again, can be achieved much more quickly with gelatin)?
 
Why? What do you think is happening during those 3 weeks? If the keg is in a refrigerator, then the temperature is too low for the yeast to actively be doing anything. I suppose they could be falling out of suspension, which would affect the flavour (it'd be less "yeasty" after 3 weeks of cold-crashing), but you can achieve the exact same effect in much shorter order with a little gelatin after a day or two of chilling.

What's magical about a beer just sitting in a keg for 3 weeks at 32° F? What's happening that changing the beer's flavour, other than things falling out of solution (which again, can be achieved much more quickly with gelatin)?

If nothing happens at refrigeration temperatures then why do breweries that make lagers store their beer for weeks at refrigeration temperatures before they declare that it is ready to be consumed?

I've also noticed that my ales improve from cold storage.
 
Since my chest freezer doubles as cold storage (both carbonated and still beer) and lagering I worry about the effect of temps ranging from 34-58 as the cornys are subject to a few weeks of lager temp fluctuation after a few weeks of cold conditoning. Any insights?
 
Cool. That's why they call these discussion forums. I still stand behind the overall spirit of the quoted statement. Sure, there are some styles that drink well in shorter times but they are exception rather than rule. I also contend that almost 100% of beers benefit from 3 weeks of cold conditioning to where flavor improves. Admittedly everyone has a different tolerance for what "good enough" means. I would rather dispense best practices that cover the majority of situations.

What do you mean by "When the gas slows"?
 
If nothing happens at refrigeration temperatures then why do breweries that make lagers store their beer for weeks at refrigeration temperatures before they declare that it is ready to be consumed?

They don't!

You think Budweiser leaves beer sitting in massive tanks for weeks on end? Do you have any idea how much that would cost?

They filter it. To get out the yeast. Budweiser turns out a batch in just a couple of weeks. You can achieve the same thing by lagering the beer (the yeast slowly falls out of suspension). That's my point - the only thing that's changing is the yeast being removed from the beer. Either by filtration (the big guys) or cold + time + finings (homebrewers/microbrewers). Other than the yeast falling out, I contend that there's nothing else significant happening to the flavours.
 
Prior to kegging, I crash my beer down to 32F/0C for 24 hours. Then I'll add 1/8 ounce of gelatin dissolved in water heated to approximately 155F/68C. I'll keep it at freezing temps for another 3 days or so. Then I'll rack to a keg. The beer is brilliantly clear and already cold so burst carbing works a bit better/faster. I'll get it 90% of the way there burst carbing, then let it finish off in the keezer.

I have no green flavors in my beer. That's not my opinion, that's verified by a couple of pro brewers and two BJCP judges. Cold crashing and fining remove the elements that cause 'green' beer flavors. Also, it helps if the beer is really finished fermenting.

I'll pitch at whatever temp I'm fermenting, and ramp up to 68-70F when the krausen falls to encourage the yeast to finish off. 1.050 and lower beers are done fermenting in 10 days. Kegging, you can go from grain to glass in 2 weeks provided the rest of your process is sound and you're roughly in the 1.050 or lower range.

Larger beers and roasty beers tend to need a bit of 'cellaring' to round out nicely, though. They still get crashed/fined like everything else, though. I think it improves the flavor. Not a fan of fining in the keg, I prefer being able to move/switch kegs out without having a bunch of trub/junk in the bottom of the keg to get stirred up. Makes cleaning the keg lines a lot easier.
 
What do you mean by "When the gas slows"?

The sound of the gas rushing into the keg is obvious, and it slows after a few seconds. When I hear the bubbling slow down, I lower the pressure and shake some more.
 
They don't!

You think Budweiser leaves beer sitting in massive tanks for weeks on end? Do you have any idea how much that would cost?

They filter it. To get out the yeast. Budweiser turns out a batch in just a couple of weeks. ...

I think you make a great point about how fining can quickly remove much of the green taste from a beer. But why jump all over my point that breweries (and I never said Budweiser) tend to lager, lager beers?

I would not call Budweiser the gold standard but it is my understanding that even they lager their beer for 3 weeks and Coors lagers for 6 weeks.

Good German breweries certainly lager their lagers.
 
Why? What do you think is happening during those 3 weeks? If the keg is in a refrigerator, then the temperature is too low for the yeast to actively be doing anything. I suppose they could be falling out of suspension, which would affect the flavour (it'd be less "yeasty" after 3 weeks of cold-crashing), but you can achieve the exact same effect in much shorter order with a little gelatin after a day or two of chilling.

What's magical about a beer just sitting in a keg for 3 weeks at 32° F? What's happening that changing the beer's flavour, other than things falling out of solution (which again, can be achieved much more quickly with gelatin)?

That's exactly right. You can filter or fine, or both. Or you can wait and let it settle on its own.
 
I've read a lot of this thread, but my question is:

I picked up a high dollar side by side fridge cheap. It's a Sub-Zero and worth many thousands of dollars. It's currently out in the garage and is my beer fridge. I'm wanting to start kegging/carbonating with CO2, but I don't want to cut holes in the front/sides of this fridge. If I stick everything inside the fridge.. kegs, hoses, regulators, and CO2 bottle, will I still be OK with just a picnic style tap at the end of a line with this setup?

In the future, I'm going to sell this one and get a cheapie I can cut/drill, but for now, this is what I've got.
 
I've read a lot of this thread, but my question is:

I picked up a high dollar side by side fridge cheap. It's a Sub-Zero and worth many thousands of dollars. It's currently out in the garage and is my beer fridge. I'm wanting to start kegging/carbonating with CO2, but I don't want to cut holes in the front/sides of this fridge. If I stick everything inside the fridge.. kegs, hoses, regulators, and CO2 bottle, will I still be OK with just a picnic style tap at the end of a line with this setup?

In the future, I'm going to sell this one and get a cheapie I can cut/drill, but for now, this is what I've got.

If it all fits that would work fine.
 
I've read a lot of this thread, but my question is:



I picked up a high dollar side by side fridge cheap. It's a Sub-Zero and worth many thousands of dollars. It's currently out in the garage and is my beer fridge. I'm wanting to start kegging/carbonating with CO2, but I don't want to cut holes in the front/sides of this fridge. If I stick everything inside the fridge.. kegs, hoses, regulators, and CO2 bottle, will I still be OK with just a picnic style tap at the end of a line with this setup?



In the future, I'm going to sell this one and get a cheapie I can cut/drill, but for now, this is what I've got.


This is exactly my setup right now. Not because I have a nice fridge, I've just been lazy and haven't finished the project. It works fine.
 
Well. I've done it everyone. I read all 86 pages in 2 days. And I still have no #$%#^$ clue which method I'm going to use on my first keg. Le sigh...

Thanks for the insight everyone!
 
Well. I've done it everyone. I read all 86 pages in 2 days. And I still have no #$%#^$ clue which method I'm going to use on my first keg. Le sigh...

Thanks for the insight everyone!

I have tried many methods .. now i set it at 10 and roll the keg on the ground with my foot. Keeps from overcarbing and after a few sessions its ready
 
I have tried many methods .. now i set it at 10 and roll the keg on the ground with my foot. Keeps from overcarbing and after a few sessions its ready

How long do you roll for in each session?

How many sessions typically?

What is the temp of your beer/keg?

How much time in between sessions?

Thanks man!
 
How long do you roll for in each session?

How many sessions typically?

What is the temp of your beer/keg?

How much time in between sessions?

Thanks man!

Did i say ive tried every other way....you're welcome. I will gladly answer your questions but you need to know that brewing and doing this is not some big trip for me. I brew I drink i brew again. I generally go grain to glass in 10 days and I'm not looking to make a beer to put in my toomb. The vast majority that disagree with me and believe this leads to lesser quality beer blah blah blah are inaccurate and I disagree. Its done by feel but now i seek slightly under carbed. You will read things like you cant carb warm beer yeah ok. I don't want to win any competitions but i do understand there are more scientific methods.with that said

One or two sessions based on mood and how the gas feels under my foot. Because I don't bubble up through the beer i bubble down through it how much going in is harder to gauge. I generally rock it until it seems not much more is going in. I do this with the air side up now you can do this I suppose with the air side down but I don't want any beer in my gas lines I don't think that would happen though. You can hear the gas and/or feel it in your foot. Then I put it back in the fridge gas line off and let it sit 20 minutes 30 minutes or if you have time longer. Then I release some of the extra co2 and hook up the gas line again. And pour some. It will be foamy you shook the s..t out of it but should give you an idea of carb levels if it needs more give another session if it needs less just let it sit you can't mess it up. You could however make a big mess carbing at 45 psi that's why I think it's best to force at 10/12.

Temps Not sure I've ever done this with cold beer I mean cold cold but depends on the situation for example on day 10 I might rack it in the morning clear the keg of all air put it in fridge work in the yard whatever and then come back in the afternoon hook it up and roll it under my foot till it feels like not a lot more is going in or physically it's as much as I can take mean how long can you stand there rolling it. Another day I might rack it clear the air and then get right to it

I can't tell you how long it takes cold vs warm I've never measured probably should get out there with the stopwatch but my foot and ears tell me. That's the beauty of low psi at 45 psi you will pay more attention to time also it's going to need some time to settle think shook Pop. Maybe I will pay more attention in the future to see if cold vs warm does better I can assure you it's never cold. I can also assure you I am always glad to be drinking it even slightly warm watching football.

I think I've answered the rest I heard someone does a gentle force carb at 10 psi then every time they go by it they just kind of shake it this will work very well as well.

The method is this rack the beer clear the air and put gas line on. Put gas side up and roll on towell/carpet remanent to protect keg and make it easier roll with swift back and forth motions of the foot back forth back forth or slower you will tire listening to and feeling the gas when it stops or slows turn the keg upright take the gas off and put it in the fridge to set for 20 minutes or longer is better. Come back release the air put gas line back on and take a pour and check it. From this point it will likely be good enough and will just get better over time

Welcome comments criticism and feedback
 
I use a different method to carbonate. I'll call it the "sliding scale" boost carbonation technique.

I rack to kegs and chill them overnight. Then I put them on the floor on their sides. I hook up gas and give them ~30 PSI. I roll them back and forth. The sound of the gas rushing in is obvious, and it slows after a few seconds. When the gas slows, I back the pressure off to ~20 and keep rolling until the gas slows. Then I back it off to 15 and keep rolling until the gas slows. Then I drop it to my target PSI and roll it some more.

I get nearly all the carbonation done in a few minutes that way. With a little practice there is little chance of overcarbonating this way. I've never overcarbonated with this method.

Then I stick them back in the keezer with the gas still on. The beer is (almost) properly carbonated immediately, and is drinkable immediately.

There's something about this approach that doesn't seem to make sense to me. If you start carbing with the higher pressure (~30 psi) and roll until the gas slows, and then immediately back the pressure off to a LOWER pressure of ~20 psi, how, then is it possible to roll it at the LOWER pressure and still hear gas coming in? The higher pressure has already allowed as much gas as possible to dissolve in the beer, so a lower pressure in theory should NOT allow any more gas to enter (unless it had rested for many hours)?
 
The pressure from the regulator is weaker than the pressure from the keg thus creating a negative flow and shooting liquid up into the regulator it's happened to me but could have been from different circumstances either way it's a fear now. Therefore I always pull the gas line off while on and let the keg sit or use a rag for splashback and let out pressure before I put the gas line back on the lower pressure. If I had clear line on my gas side it would easier to see and I would probably have less fear. That's why I've come to the conclusion of just forcecarbonating at a lower pressure
 
Also now I remember I don't think I had that little nipple in there that stops flow back. Not sure how bulletproof that is but still high psi carbing and i arent compatible. I get to the beer quicker lower psi which is the point of force carbing right? It takes a long time to settle it seems from a major high carb session. Ymmv
 
In summary, it doesn't make any sense to go immediately from force carbing with high pressure to lower pressures. A long rest period is required before any advantage can be made of this approach.
 
In summary, it doesn't make any sense to go immediately from force carbing with high pressure to lower pressures. A long rest period is required before any advantage can be made of this approach.

Agreed. I now do 3 days at 24psi at 36F, no shaking, works great. When I did shake and roll it, 26 psi for 90 seconds - roll on a carpet or towel, stand upright, let it fill again then shut off the gas.
 
I would not reduce pressure on your regulator without bleeding the keg first. Close outlet valve on your regulator, bleed keg, reduce pressure on your regulator, re-open outlet valve.

There are several methods of burst-carbing described in this thread. Pick a method and go with it. You'll learn something each time you do it and you'll figure out what works best for you.

Anytime you burst-carb, there is always a chance you could over carb. But if you do, it's not the end of the world. Just disconnect the keg from pressure, sit it in the garage and bleed it every couple of hours for a day. Put it back under serving pressure and let it carb back up to the desired level.

It's understandable to be anxious to get your tap(s) flowing when you first get into kegging. It's cool! But after that, it's just a matter of keeping enough supply in the pipeline so you don't have to rush things. Not sure why there is a question of whether a beer benefits from 3 weeks of conditioning?? Regardless of whether you cold crash or just leave it at serving temps, every beer will benefit/improve from 3 weeks of conditioning.

:mug:
 
I understand there is a place for quick carb. But I make cider. It ages 6-9 mos. most of the time. So set it and forget it for 2-3 weeks is no problem.
 
On a side note I carb about 600 SodaStream bottles a year I have a 20 pound co2 tank hooked up to my SodaStream. Don't make a lot of my syrups but there are plenty of different kinds
 
@jbb3 I'm going to go against the grain of the flow of course and start a thread discussing whether or not aging beer does make it better
 
Nicely presented, the chart is very helpful even if not intended to be accurate.
Like most folk I have tried every method depending on the circumstances.
Generally I apply about 40 psi to the cold keg (around 8 Deg C) but the keg head-space is as small as is practical. I generally roll the keg around, then leave for about 48 hours. Then I reset the pressure to 10 psi & monitor. Normally I will need to top up the pressure several times to 10 psi. A fter about 10 days (if I can wait that long) I sample & depending upon whether the head is "manageable" I will make further small adjustments which generally involve reducing the pressure.
Why this method?
Well I tried the set & forget at a chosen pressure while learning the ropes. What happened was I lost all my C02 due to an almost indetectable keg seal leak. Rather costly! I only eventually found the leak by putting my pressurised keg in the swimming pool.
So if you think this could happen to you there is a safer way.
 
Nicely presented, the chart is very helpful even if not intended to be accurate.
Like most folk I have tried every method depending on the circumstances.
Generally I apply about 40 psi to the cold keg (around 8 Deg C) but the keg head-space is as small as is practical. I generally roll the keg around, then leave for about 48 hours. Then I reset the pressure to 10 psi & monitor. Normally I will need to top up the pressure several times to 10 psi. A fter about 10 days (if I can wait that long) I sample & depending upon whether the head is "manageable" I will make further small adjustments which generally involve reducing the pressure.
Why this method?
Well I tried the set & forget at a chosen pressure while learning the ropes. What happened was I lost all my C02 due to an almost indetectable keg seal leak. Rather costly! I only eventually found the leak by putting my pressurised keg in the swimming pool.
So if you think this could happen to you there is a safer way.

I'm sorry I don't see the logic in force carbonating the keg to drink it 10 days later. I would try 24 psi at 3 days as offered above and be drinking perfectly carbonated beer three or four days later. I force carbonate because I want to drink it like 3 hours after I put it in the keg
 
There has been a lot of discussion about various ways of carbonating the keg, with the plus and minuses of each way. I agree that rushing the pressurization of a keg has little advantage unless there is a specific deadline of some sort. I'm of the view that extra time at the lagering stage, whether for ales or lagers, greatly improves the taste and clarity of the beer. I also tend to make more lagers/pilsners than ales, so have become used to waiting during the lagering stage which takes at least three weeks. Thus it would normally be no big deal for me to wait the two or three weeks that it takes to set the keg at the serving pressure and wait until pressurization is complete, as mentioned by Bobby in the first post.

However - and I have read every single post in this entire discussion - I have almost seen no discussion at all about how to pressurize a keg WITHOUT leaving the CO2 tank attached for the entire time. Several have complained about losing a whole tank of CO2 because of leaks while keeping it attached. One or two have also mentioned that they do not wish to drill a hole through their kegerator/frige/deep freezer for various reasons. I also have no desire to drill through my temperature controlled deep freezer, as some day I may wish to graduate to a different method and want to sell my freezer. Some people have mentioned that they do not have any extra room in their kegerator for the CO2 tank. I personally do have room (I currently have five kegs and one carboy in the chest as well as many special bottles of beer), but whenever I leave a CO2 tank in the freezer, there is often a lot of condensation on it, and I do not want to risk any rusting on the tank. Therefore, there seems to be situations where it would be very beneficial NOT to have the CO2 tank connected to the keg during the entire pressurization time.

Thus, I have developed my own unique way of pressurizing kegs WITHOUT leaving them attached to a CO2 tank the entire time. However, I have not yet perfected this approach. Generally, the process involves flushing the air out of the keg, giving it a little pressure to seal the lid, and leaving the keg in the temperature controlled freezer as it lagers down to just about freezing temperature (about 32 F). Then, before it reaches this temperature (at about 40-45 F) I take the keg out, attach the CO2 tank, and give it a pressure of about 30 psi. I place the CO2 tank on a ledge several feet above the keg (to prevent beer from going into the CO2 line) and rock the keg up and down continuously until no more gas can be heard entering the tank (takes maybe 5-10 minutes or about 150-200 rocks of the keg). Then I detach the CO2, place the keg in the freezer, and leave it for 12 hours or so. I then give the keg another shot of CO2 at about 20 psi (without shaking or rocking it) and do this every 12 hours for 2 or 3 days. Then I lower the pressure to serving pressure (say 8 psi since the temperature is at 32 F), and give the keg a shot of CO2 every 12 hours at the serving pressure. I continue this for another two weeks or so, or until no more CO2 can be heard entering the keg, and believe it or not, the carbonation seems about right. Then, immediately after pouring a beer at any time, I give the keg another shot of CO2 at 8 psi, disconnect it and it is ready for the next pour.

Thus, the same thing can be accomplished WITHOUT leaving the CO2 tank connected at all times (although it may take a few days longer). As long as the keg doesn't leak, it will hold the pressure, so I can't see any need whatsoever for keeping the CO2 line connected at all times.

Has anybody else tried this method? I'm still trying to perfect it in terms of timing, and would like to hear of others' experience with this method, which so far has only been briefly mentioned perhaps once in 874 posts. I have also never seen this method mentioned anywhere on Internet sites.
 
There has been a lot of discussion about various ways of carbonating the keg, with the plus and minuses of each way. I agree that rushing the pressurization of a keg has little advantage unless there is a specific deadline of some sort. I'm of the view that extra time at the lagering stage, whether for ales or lagers, greatly improves the taste and clarity of the beer. I also tend to make more lagers/pilsners than ales, so have become used to waiting during the lagering stage which takes at least three weeks. Thus it would normally be no big deal for me to wait the two or three weeks that it takes to set the keg at the serving pressure and wait until pressurization is complete, as mentioned by Bobby in the first post.

However - and I have read every single post in this entire discussion - I have almost seen no discussion at all about how to pressurize a keg WITHOUT leaving the CO2 tank attached for the entire time. Several have complained about losing a whole tank of CO2 because of leaks while keeping it attached. One or two have also mentioned that they do not wish to drill a hole through their kegerator/frige/deep freezer for various reasons. I also have no desire to drill through my temperature controlled deep freezer, as some day I may wish to graduate to a different method and want to sell my freezer. Some people have mentioned that they do not have any extra room in their kegerator for the CO2 tank. I personally do have room (I currently have five kegs and one carboy in the chest as well as many special bottles of beer), but whenever I leave a CO2 tank in the freezer, there is often a lot of condensation on it, and I do not want to risk any rusting on the tank. Therefore, there seems to be situations where it would be very beneficial NOT to have the CO2 tank connected to the keg during the entire pressurization time.

Thus, I have developed my own unique way of pressurizing kegs WITHOUT leaving them attached to a CO2 tank the entire time. However, I have not yet perfected this approach. Generally, the process involves flushing the air out of the keg, giving it a little pressure to seal the lid, and leaving the keg in the temperature controlled freezer as it lagers down to just about freezing temperature (about 32 F). Then, before it reaches this temperature (at about 40-45 F) I take the keg out, attach the CO2 tank, and give it a pressure of about 30 psi. I place the CO2 tank on a ledge several feet above the keg (to prevent beer from going into the CO2 line) and rock the keg up and down continuously until no more gas can be heard entering the tank (takes maybe 5-10 minutes or about 150-200 rocks of the keg). Then I detach the CO2, place the keg in the freezer, and leave it for 12 hours or so. I then give the keg another shot of CO2 at about 20 psi (without shaking or rocking it) and do this every 12 hours for 2 or 3 days. Then I lower the pressure to serving pressure (say 8 psi since the temperature is at 32 F), and give the keg a shot of CO2 every 12 hours at the serving pressure. I continue this for another two weeks or so, or until no more CO2 can be heard entering the keg, and believe it or not, the carbonation seems about right. Then, immediately after pouring a beer at any time, I give the keg another shot of CO2 at 8 psi, disconnect it and it is ready for the next pour.

Thus, the same thing can be accomplished WITHOUT leaving the CO2 tank connected at all times (although it may take a few days longer). As long as the keg doesn't leak, it will hold the pressure, so I can't see any need whatsoever for keeping the CO2 line connected at all times.

Has anybody else tried this method? I'm still trying to perfect it in terms of timing, and would like to hear of others' experience with this method, which so far has only been briefly mentioned perhaps once in 874 posts. I have also never seen this method mentioned anywhere on Internet sites.

Good grief. That sounds like a PITA...

If you're dead set on leaving the CO2 tank outside the keezer, have you thought about doing a 2x collar and drilling through that instead? Then you won't have to drill through the freezer.

And I assume the reason your tank has so much condensation on it is because the freezer lid is being opened and closed for every beer pour and to charge the kegs with a shot CO2? A collar would also allow you to install beer taps so it doesn't need to be opened so often. And you can re-use the taps should you decide to change keezers later.

I have a steel CO2 tank inside my keezer. I made a small stand for it using 1/2" ply. There is a ring of rust stain on the plywood where it sits so there is a small amount of condensation. However, there is not any standing condensation on the tank like you describe. But then I only open the top about once every week or two to change kegs. I also have fans to circulate the air inside. I've also seen some put mini dehumidifiers in their keezers.
 
There has been a lot of discussion about various ways of carbonating the keg, with the plus and minuses of each way. I agree that rushing the pressurization of a keg has little advantage unless there is a specific deadline of some sort. I'm of the view that extra time at the lagering stage, whether for ales or lagers, greatly improves the taste and clarity of the beer. I also tend to make more lagers/pilsners than ales, so have become used to waiting during the lagering stage which takes at least three weeks. Thus it would normally be no big deal for me to wait the two or three weeks that it takes to set the keg at the serving pressure and wait until pressurization is complete, as mentioned by Bobby in the first post.

However - and I have read every single post in this entire discussion - I have almost seen no discussion at all about how to pressurize a keg WITHOUT leaving the CO2 tank attached for the entire time. Several have complained about losing a whole tank of CO2 because of leaks while keeping it attached. One or two have also mentioned that they do not wish to drill a hole through their kegerator/frige/deep freezer for various reasons. I also have no desire to drill through my temperature controlled deep freezer, as some day I may wish to graduate to a different method and want to sell my freezer. Some people have mentioned that they do not have any extra room in their kegerator for the CO2 tank. I personally do have room (I currently have five kegs and one carboy in the chest as well as many special bottles of beer), but whenever I leave a CO2 tank in the freezer, there is often a lot of condensation on it, and I do not want to risk any rusting on the tank. Therefore, there seems to be situations where it would be very beneficial NOT to have the CO2 tank connected to the keg during the entire pressurization time.

Thus, I have developed my own unique way of pressurizing kegs WITHOUT leaving them attached to a CO2 tank the entire time. However, I have not yet perfected this approach. Generally, the process involves flushing the air out of the keg, giving it a little pressure to seal the lid, and leaving the keg in the temperature controlled freezer as it lagers down to just about freezing temperature (about 32 F). Then, before it reaches this temperature (at about 40-45 F) I take the keg out, attach the CO2 tank, and give it a pressure of about 30 psi. I place the CO2 tank on a ledge several feet above the keg (to prevent beer from going into the CO2 line) and rock the keg up and down continuously until no more gas can be heard entering the tank (takes maybe 5-10 minutes or about 150-200 rocks of the keg). Then I detach the CO2, place the keg in the freezer, and leave it for 12 hours or so. I then give the keg another shot of CO2 at about 20 psi (without shaking or rocking it) and do this every 12 hours for 2 or 3 days. Then I lower the pressure to serving pressure (say 8 psi since the temperature is at 32 F), and give the keg a shot of CO2 every 12 hours at the serving pressure. I continue this for another two weeks or so, or until no more CO2 can be heard entering the keg, and believe it or not, the carbonation seems about right. Then, immediately after pouring a beer at any time, I give the keg another shot of CO2 at 8 psi, disconnect it and it is ready for the next pour.

Thus, the same thing can be accomplished WITHOUT leaving the CO2 tank connected at all times (although it may take a few days longer). As long as the keg doesn't leak, it will hold the pressure, so I can't see any need whatsoever for keeping the CO2 line connected at all times.

Has anybody else tried this method? I'm still trying to perfect it in terms of timing, and would like to hear of others' experience with this method, which so far has only been briefly mentioned perhaps once in 874 posts. I have also never seen this method mentioned anywhere on Internet sites.



When I had a kegerator that only held one keg I would do something similar to what you describe so that the next keg would be carb'd by the time I had room for it. To the keg on deck I would keep it in the basement at about 65 degrees and first hit it with 30 psi and rock it back and fourth for 5 mins on day 1. Then I would periodically hit it with 30 psi every week or so (no shake). After a couple weeks when it was time to change kegs I would hook it up at a serving pressure of 10-12 psi and it'd taste ready as soon as it cooled within about 24 hours. Maybe it continued to improve slowly, but none of us really noticed.

Now I have a fridge that holds 4 kegs, but I do not yet have a gas manifold. So, I've been switching the co2 between them. This is my first few batches with the fridge so I'm experimenting- I'll be getting manifold soon anyhow. Just tasted one of the kegs that I had placed at 30 psi and shook for 5 mins last week and it tastes about right but I want a little more co2 for style (Belgian triple). Leaving it at 25 psi now till new year then will probably serve around 20.

I definitely think this is a viable technique that has its uses.
 
Good grief. That sounds like a PITA...

If you're dead set on leaving the CO2 tank outside the keezer, have you thought about doing a 2x collar and drilling through that instead? Then you won't have to drill through the freezer.

And I assume the reason your tank has so much condensation on it is because the freezer lid is being opened and closed for every beer pour and to charge the kegs with a shot CO2? A collar would also allow you to install beer taps so it doesn't need to be opened so often. And you can re-use the taps should you decide to change keezers later.

I have a steel CO2 tank inside my keezer. I made a small stand for it using 1/2" ply. There is a ring of rust stain on the plywood where it sits so there is a small amount of condensation. However, there is not any standing condensation on the tank like you describe. But then I only open the top about once every week or two to change kegs. I also have fans to circulate the air inside. I've also seen some put mini dehumidifiers in their keezers.

It's not really that much work - I just have to hit it with pressure twice a day for about 3 weeks, and if I occasionally miss, it doesn't make much difference. I have thought of making a collar, and have several plans, but then I'd have to get a large manifold (big enough for 6 kegs) and find a way to attach that inside the keezer. I might go that route eventually, but for now, this system seems to work quite well. I also don't have to worry about leaks and losing all the CO2.

As for the condensation, you are right - it's likely related to the number of times I open and close the keezer. It's also a large tank - 20 pounds - so has more surface area.
 
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