Keg Dry-hopping

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Bodesbrew

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Getting ready to dry hop my IPA today and I wanted to do it right in the keg. I searched around for some tips and they're all great but my problem is I have a commercial keg with a sanke coupler. The opening is a lot smaller than a corny keg so I'm not sure how I'm going to keg the hops in or out, without causing chunky issues... Any suggestions??
 
Getting ready to dry hop my IPA today and I wanted to do it right in the keg. I searched around for some tips and they're all great but my problem is I have a commercial keg with a sanke coupler. The opening is a lot smaller than a corny keg so I'm not sure how I'm going to keg the hops in or out, without causing chunky issues... Any suggestions??

Assuming you are using pellet (chunky issues) using a paint strainer, add the hops and roll it either length or widthwise and use sterilized dental floss to tie it in say 3 places. Loop and tie a length of additional sterilized dental floss to this and drop er in (kind of like a hop fishing line). Tie the end of the dental floss to something on the exterior Sanke. Close the top and you ahould be good to go.
 
I shrink wrap 1 rare earth magnet and use a hop sock. I then use the other rare earth on the outside to hold it in place.


by rare earth, I mean HD magnets.
 
I use big sanitized stainless steel tea ball (4" across) somewhat full of hops (leave room for expansion), toss it in the keg.
 
Those are the typical ways of doing it for corny kegs, but this guy's issue is that he wants to do this in a Sanke.

I don't really have any suggestions for getting hops in and out but you could make a "hop tea" and do it as liquid. Not quite the same but it could get the job done.
 
Those are the typical ways of doing it for corny kegs, but this guy's issue is that he wants to do this in a Sanke.

Which is why I suggested rolling up the hops paint strainer so that it is thin enough to fit into the Sanke. The opening on the Sanke once you remove the spring clip, pull everything out and just have the opening is around 1"+. Large enough to put a paint strainer full of pellet (+ marble or two for weight if you so choose). Not ideal but it would probably work.

I would personally use a Randalizer with a Sanke to dry hop instead of going inside of the Sanke. Much easier and cleaner.
 
I serve from sankes and this is going to be an issue for me soon as well. What I am thinking about doing is going to get a SS water heater (Not sure if that is the right part or not) supply line. I have seen these in my True Value Hardware store. They are HUGE versions of the braided toilet supply lines like we use in MLT's. I am guessing at least 2" in diameter and they have a SS braid around them. This would allow me to either slip it over the dip tube or try to figure out a way to make a semi-removable sanitary cap of some kind.

I am actually wondering if just building a Randal would be easier...

I can speak from experience from dry hopping in a strainer bag in secondary that the bags are really a PITA to remove. I had to cut and pull mine out with long needle nose pliers and it made a HUGE mess...
 
I ferment in a sanke, I use a 1 gallon Sunny Delight bottle cut in half for getting the hops in. The mouth of the bottle allow's the hops to flow right in.
 
I ferment in a sanke, I use a 1 gallon Sunny Delight bottle cut in half for getting the hops in. The mouth of the bottle allow's the hops to flow right in.

I think the problem is more the fact that the loose hops, be they pellets, plugs, or whole leaf, will gunk up the dip tube when dispensing the beer.
 
thisgoestoeleven said:
I think the problem is more the fact that the loose hops, be they pellets, plugs, or whole leaf, will gunk up the dip tube when dispensing the beer.

I just bought a screen for the dip tube at my LHBS. Northern Brewer sells them as the SureScreen. Haven't tried it yet, but there are good reviews on here. I plan just to use leaf hops.
 
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